Відео

Nice video! But i found the "printed parts" part and document lacking. I cant for the life of me get around what files to print, and just mentioning 18 parts in the document and not even mentioning which files they substitute ? either i´m stupid or very confused :D Please help

These are great examples. You have a great way of explaining how to do these. Exactly what I was looking for.

you save filament AND time! Time is an important aspect since the flushing is pretty slow too. Thanks for the video!

I just recently bought some Kingroon PLA. I find on my P1S (which I still need to tune Z-Axis) that it really comes out great at 195. I have it set to 200 in the profile but it lays down looking dry and scuffed., 205 and it starts to string a little…. 195, each layer is smooth and has a sheen…. Am I wrong? I like to watch too…. Why does that make me feel dirty? LOL

I did al the speed tests and then then the last test is this one..... i looked at it for an hour or so and was just confused.... i saw no difference

Coming from another video you made a year ago I'd just like to say congrats on the weight loss. Looking healthy!

After I did the test and changed the pressure advance to the one I thought was the "sharpest", the first layer of my print had a small gap between the first outer wall line. Not really sure how to properly look at the PA test or what Im doing wrong

I have a dehumidifier box for electronics would this work to dry filament?

I've got 1.9.2.57 Bambu Studio release but there is no trace of this change in "Change Filament G-code..."... ;(

Hello again I had an another question. Not sure how to ask it. But I finally hooked up my printer to my laptop. And printed from the laptop for the first time and was looking at the camera and noticed a lot of shavings and thought I might have added to much glue. So I went to check and the printer was trying to kill its self lol. But really it was carving into the build plate in the areas it was supposed to lay the plastic. I printed something I already printed and came out fairly similar. Then tried the file I sent and printed okay. So I’m not sure what caused it to do that. I’m concerned that I messed up something but not sure how to test it. It took a big gouge out of the build plate so it definitely went through some torture any thoughts?

has anyone discovered a fix to use this method on the P1S? the default gcode for the P1S doesn't match up with that of the PDF, and it gives an error when slicing.

want to see masterchief at full speed on it.

Just ordered one. Wish me luck, lol

We notice, we care, but just when you think you've solved VFAs, they crop up in another print, in another printer, in a new material, and the rabbithole springs endless branches into existence. Like an episode of Sliders.

Activated Alumina for desiccant. Works excellent, you just have to watch it more since no color changing but way stronger desiccant.

I've owned an A1 Mini for 2 months now and have learned SO much in that time. Your video REALLY helped explain things in a way that I could understand. I subscribed for further education!! Thank you for taking the time to make this and share it online. Much appreciated :)

Very helpful video man, thanks!

3d printer enthusiasts hate this one brand : Sunlu. I've wasted more time on Sunlu filament than any other brand. Used to be a brand i'd swear by and recommend I used to love their PLA+ ran probably 30 rolls of it. Now? I'm throwing nearly full spools in the garbage because they have such poor layer adhesion I can't print a circle without crossovers of 30%+. Brand new spools freshly out of the package are covered in filth, cardboard debris, dust, and god knows what else. The White PETG I just opened has visible foreign debris in the filament itself. Not once, in several spots on the roll. Full extrusion widths are crossing over the center of a circle because the layers aren't adhering. If I move my nozzle closer the PETG balls up on the nozzle and I get large deposits that mess up the print. Temperatures and everything have been run on probably 20 different PETG's without issue. The diameter of the filament is between 1.6 and 1.8 over 5 feet. The wrap on the spool is over an inch difference between sides, it was wrapped completely unevenly. Several full spool width crossovers are evident through the winds. I don't think there's actual tangles. But it's as if they started wrapping the right side of the spool then went to the left, without wrapping between. Several spots on the spool like this. Currently printing the same print on a roll of CF-PETG I have had for over a year, that's been on a shelf above a window that's been opened almost all summer in 50-100% humidity, from a different brand, printing flawlessly. If you want to waste time and money on inconsistent filament than Sunlu's the way to go. I certainly wouldn't trust something they make that has any sort of capacity to heat... They can't even make filament....

.0105 is what I would have picked for “sharpest corner”, making one of us very wrong.

Why the hell do you have a section called "hardware install" where you DON'T INSTALL THE HARDWARE?

Thanks! This video and your notes helped so much while building the Formbot kit.

Always shocking when an experiment does not go anywhere close to how you planned. Thanks for sharing this, I have been looking for a dryer for a bit now but this one seems to be everything I am looking for as well as a great price right now so I ordered one.

In case anyone else checked the comments before watching the whole video and had no freaking idea what "VFA" stood for, it's at 6:20, "vertical fine artifacts".

a tip for anyone , grab the file from bigtechtree and not arbiamt, the wifi settings around there in armbian

One of the reasons stock PLA profiles don't end up with perfect corners and overhangs is that they don't enable the auxiliary fan by default. Just adding a little aux fan can really clean up cooling quality issues. Strange you are getting VFA issues. Most people tend to have very low VFA prints. My experience with the Plus4 is that it produces incredibly accurate and VFA free prints. I am very impressed overall. Belt tension and lubrication along with running ideal speeds are usually best to reduce the VFA, but sometimes there are other issues we haven't been able to fully nail down. Running a VFA tower print may help. Do let us know if you ever figure out your specific issue.

As above comments, please do a follow up video on the VFA issue when you can

The VFA seems to go away the faster you print maybe try that?

I just traded my K1 max for this thing, absolute piece of shit so far, can’t leave it unattended, woke to a huge ball of molten plastic attached to the print head from an overnight print, wasted at least 2 rolls of pla on failed prints in a week

Yeah they're pretty cool ya know

Does this still apply/work with the current Bambu Studio?

Hey. Dyu have custom profiles for the plus4 or vidz on how to better the default profiles on qidi studio defult settings. Also all the code upgrades and how to do em. Sorry m new to 3d printing n jus got one a month back

Right now it's $399 and there is an easy to find $30 coupon out there. Free shipping

I use the HULA Damper designed by ThrutheFrame in Thinkiverse, it make it a little better.

Try setting the pressure_advance_smooth_time to 0.05. That seemed to clear up a lot of the pressure advance "bounce" for me, which looked kind of similar to what you were showing off there. I managed to get all artifacts to go away by ensuring the out wall speeds were 170mm/s or higher. For small-print scenarios, I did multiple 1mm advance VFA towers, and for me I found a handful of very particular lower speeds where all the VFA's mostly went away. 56 and 96mm/s speeds in case you were wondering, but your individual printer may vary. I also ended up at 2000mm/s^2 accelerations for outer and inner walls and top surfaces, and used 7500mm/s^2 accelerations for solid/sparse infills. I don't know how I can show you images of my prints now on UA-cam though.

Why can't it be calculated how much can be printed with the filament that will be flushed and cut it in advance, using the filament that would be wasted on the actual print. If the calculation is not precise, which I understand, use 80% of it or so and waste just a fraction before changing the filament color.

Did you try with the to print with the resonance avoidance of? With my printer it does not seem to make a difference at all. I wonder if it works properly.

I am glad to see this video, I thought it was only my printer. It is pretty disappointing though. It is such a great printer, but this ruins it for me. Even at slow speeds they still show up. I saw a design of an adjustable belt tensioner somewhere, maybe that might help.

A1 doesn't have VFA: 1.5mm belt pitch + flat belts on the idle pulleys.

yo, what size is this? build looks awesome

Hello if u don’t mind can u do me a favor and messure the depth from foot to foot I want to by a tool chest to use as a table for it and the one I’m looking at is only 18 inches. I know the site says it’s 19 and change. So was hoping the feet are a little bit shorter. Thank you

I have pretty much no VFAs on my Qidi plus 4, did you run the input shaper again? how sturdy is the table it's on? maybe something has too much play, some early models had some play in the head.

My machine has bad VFAs very similar to yours. I have been trying to solve for well over a month now. I believe it's related to the bottom bearing in the X carriage. It's a graphite bearing not a ball bearing. Qidi suggesting oiling it (not greasing), maybe you could give that a shot? I'm pretty active on the Qidi Discord and it's a few of us that have 'unsolvable VFAs' but most people can get them to go away through tweaking. It does take a little effort on the user's part. It would be great if Qidi just figued out how to ship the printers in a more tuned state.

Good material! Polymaker ASA have you print on it? On Bambu X1 is very hard to make a usable print with this mayerial.

Did you print with the default profile? I printed directly with the default settings of QIDI Studio, and the VFA was almost gone.

It’s an amazing printer for the price.

Interesting that you experienced more VFAs than normal. I had the exact opposite experience. My Plus 4 prints exhibited far fewer VFAs than any of my other printers.

A++

its very likely a tension vs speed vs motor resonance issue look up MRR one way to upgrade this or remove the problem (if neither changing belt tension or speed fix it) is to have a motor replacement with a lower MRR. I have a qidi plus 4 and dont have this issue. back in the day the tmc 2208 could have also been an issue but this has been upgraded to remove salmon skin in modern iterations so what i said earlier is the most likely. Hope this helps!

What they should really do is make a cutting mechanism that cuts below the nozzle. So on a filament change the printer cools the head, pushes out just enough filament for any bulges, then cuts. Almost no wastage and potentially no need for a poop purge either (or just a very small one).