Відео

I am glad to see this video, I thought it was only my printer. It is pretty disappointing though. It is such a great printer, but this ruins it for me. Even at slow speeds they still show up. I saw a design of an adjustable belt tensioner somewhere, maybe that might help.

A1 doesn't have VFA: 1.5mm belt pitch + flat belts on the idle pulleys.

yo, what size is this? build looks awesome

Hello if u don’t mind can u do me a favor and messure the depth from foot to foot I want to by a tool chest to use as a table for it and the one I’m looking at is only 18 inches. I know the site says it’s 19 and change. So was hoping the feet are a little bit shorter. Thank you

I have pretty much no VFAs on my Qidi plus 4, did you run the input shaper again? how sturdy is the table it's on? maybe something has too much play, some early models had some play in the head.

My machine has bad VFAs very similar to yours. I have been trying to solve for well over a month now. I believe it's related to the bottom bearing in the X carriage. It's a graphite bearing not a ball bearing. Qidi suggesting oiling it (not greasing), maybe you could give that a shot? I'm pretty active on the Qidi Discord and it's a few of us that have 'unsolvable VFAs' but most people can get them to go away through tweaking. It does take a little effort on the user's part. It would be great if Qidi just figued out how to ship the printers in a more tuned state.

Good material! Polymaker ASA have you print on it? On Bambu X1 is very hard to make a usable print with this mayerial.

Did you print with the default profile? I printed directly with the default settings of QIDI Studio, and the VFA was almost gone.

It’s an amazing printer for the price.

Interesting that you experienced more VFAs than normal. I had the exact opposite experience. My Plus 4 prints exhibited far fewer VFAs than any of my other printers.

A++

its very likely a tension vs speed vs motor resonance issue look up MRR one way to upgrade this or remove the problem (if neither changing belt tension or speed fix it) is to have a motor replacement with a lower MRR. I have a qidi plus 4 and dont have this issue. back in the day the tmc 2208 could have also been an issue but this has been upgraded to remove salmon skin in modern iterations so what i said earlier is the most likely. Hope this helps!

What they should really do is make a cutting mechanism that cuts below the nozzle. So on a filament change the printer cools the head, pushes out just enough filament for any bulges, then cuts. Almost no wastage and potentially no need for a poop purge either (or just a very small one).

Why aren't Bambu making this an option (tick box)

Can the Bambu A1 AMS lite colour change without purging? Like if I wanted to make a multi colour thing and don't mind the colour bleeding to create a transition if you get me.

Thank you for sharing the video! While I appreciate the effort you’ve put into demonstrating the print capabilities, I noticed some areas where the results could be improved. The visible layer lines and the uneven top surfaces stand out, which suggests there’s room for optimization. In comparison, I’ve achieved significantly smoother results on my older, well-tuned Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro, so I wonder if the calibration or hardware settings on your Bambu Labs printer could be adjusted further. Regarding stringing, while filament drying is indeed crucial, it’s not the sole factor. Variables like retraction settings, print speed, nozzle temperature, and filament type also play significant roles in minimizing stringing. Fine-tuning these may could enhance your prints too. I do admire the potential of the Bambu Labs printers, but it seems like your unit might need a bit more hardware and software tweaking to meet its full potential. Looking forward to seeing future results-this tech definitely has promise!

BL has now added this to its update for x and p series's. 😃

this was enormously valuable in building my confidence that I could handle "such a difficult build". This isn't that bad at all. Just a lot of different disciplines in one project. Thank you!

Great video, just like your others. Job well done, keep making videos. Greetings from Belgium

once the profile is made in bambu studio, can i also print with this profile from the android app ? i only use the mobile app and never the desktop app

But isn't it a resistive heater? Then lowering the voltage will lower the power, not automagically increase the current. So there must be more to the electronic components on that board ...

Can't recommend Prusament, here (Czechia) it takes them 2 weeks to ship 1 spool of PETG that they have in stock. Support agent doesn't know what is going on and promises to contact me via email. Still haven't received any email. I can't imagine anyone relying on them for commercial stuff.

hi! I also started using Eddy! I have a problem when I print parts with a grid from Eddy. The height of the printed parts increases by about +0.6 mm. What could it be??? FADE is off! If without a grid, all the dimensions are perfect!

What about lidar? Isn't it fast too?

I have a X1C and a A1 Mini, when i do the calibration process for the Mini, can the results be transferred to the X1?

probably a dumb question but... would i continue to leave the flow calibration UNchecked after all the calibration is done? Or do I just leave that unchecked for the actual calibrating?

Can someone please explain why use armbian over debian for the CB1? Im reading the repository for armbian is abandoned?

bambu should have a poop return program so you can send your waste back and they can recycle it and you get a discount on a new roll

Seems like Qidi is sending out preemptive emails now and offering free heater power board replacements for NA (110V) customers.

Is it a different heater than the Q1 Pro?

Thanks for the tutorial. I have a model that flushes 28g using default settings. When I change the preset to this one, it still says it flushes 28g. Is the reduction in poop not reflected in the flush column? Did you manual weigh it which is why you said it could reduce the poop by almost half?

Comenting on a really old Video, because i don't know if you have a new one, lol. For Tuning we disable, Automatic Flow Calibration before sending the print. What about after we have all the tuning needed, do we send the print with No Flow Calibration or it will be calibrated with the new profile?

They just released Eddy Duo (usb/can) so it can be wired directly into EBB boards

Hi, I follow your procedure and everything works until I reboot the manta. After that the cb1 cannot connect to the mcu until I manually press the reset button on manta... A firmware restart on mainsails does not work, I have to press the button. I have manta 1.1 m8p in my kit

Do you know if those settings also apply to the Bambu Lab A1 ? Thank you!

To access the feature in Bambu Studio go to your filament settings, go to "setting overrides", and choose "long retraction when cut (experimental)" to turn this on without changing gcode. Edit: it seems not ALL filaments have this, I don’t know why. So if you don’t see that setting stick with the gcode option I guess.

Well, spent a whole day troubleshooting the can bus and discovered that mine only works at 250k rather than the 1M like in the video. Even though I have the same Formbot kit ButterPockets has - Manta M8P V1.1 with a BTT SB2209 (RP2040) toolhead board.

Is that a printed wedding band on your hand in the Tool Head section? Really? Oh yeah, the Voron cost more than gold --- I get it! 🙂

Will altering the filament swap g-code work with the “biqu Panda revo” hot end?

I don't care about what you make of what you save just show me how to fucken reduce it

How does the formbot kit compare to fysetc Voron 2.4 r2 pro?

Or is it possible to get some guidance on what I could do to solve this problem?

Could there be incompatibility between a Manta M8P v 2.0 with an H723 processor and a CAN with an 0B1 processor? I’ve been trying this configuration for a while, and it’s not working! Thx for the answer.

mate, you already know im going to be here if there are umbreon is involved

stupid question but do I plug the usb version into the pi or my octopus? thanks for the video!

Has anyone else had in Klipper "mcu 'mcu': Unable to connect" and via SSH $ ls -l /dev/serial/by-id/...... "ls: cannot access '/dev/serial/by-id/': No such file or directory"?

Great video! However - from the front of the printer Left corner is B = X and A = Y.?.? The wiring diagram diagram lists them as X and Y. Voron defines them as A and B as well as the Formbot labeled wires. I have yet to fire up the printer, the wiring is complete. So the previous is somewhat of a question but the M8P setup for can bus helped me understand the Octopus setup with a U2C can adapter. The video helped me comprehend the structure of the can bus setup. Confusion takes over my aging mind more and more. What would make Voron 2.4 even more popular, I believe, is git similar to KIAUH. Only it would be a Software Installation Configurator... just like the machine configurator on the Voron Design site but it would be for electronic hardware and software. configuration Maybe BigTreeTech could develop it with the help of the "esteemed/accomplished" engineer @joetkeshub.... 😜 Happy printing!

Good infor on the A1 I did not know thank you! Thumb up new SUB!

Thank you for the very clear and usefull video. I neverteless encounter a problem I cannot solve, even with ChatGPT 🤣 When I try to flash katapult (in DFU mode) I get the follwing error : dfu-util: Could not open file /home/jacques/Katapult/out/katapult.bin for reading: No such file or directory I erased the katapult directory and reinstalled it, make menuconfig, make clean, make... and there is indeed not katapult.bin but a canboot.bin in the out directory. I tryed to flash using canboot.bin instead of katapult.bin but I the get the error : dfu-util: Could not open file /home/jacques/Katapult/out/canboot.bin for reading: No such file or directory I am flasing a M8P V2.0 with CB2 and I use the parameters for M8P V2.0 found in letstry.science/2023/10/flashing-bigtreetech-manta-m8p-v2.0/ Does anyone has a suggestion ?

This video helped a bunch, and probably not even in the ways you would think. The side comments about temperatures and typical PA values for PLA and the filament soecific commentary is what helped the most. Some things that would help me greatly: 1. Same workflow and commentary on specifics for other materials. Namely ASA and PETG. 2. The various issues and steps you take as you "react" to prints. I don't know if what I'm seeing is a temp issue, cooling issue, speed issue etc. I noticed with PETG that X1C moves faster than it should. How to tune appropriately for speed if the flow cant keep up?