I’m using Beacon with the new Contact option which allows it to function as a z stop and doesn’t need all of the paper adjustment. It also doesn’t require you to use a particular build of Klipper. Stock Klipper works perfectly with it. I’m running a 75x75 mesh and it’s amazing.
I was between this and a MicroProbe V2.0 recently. I didn't go with Eddy, mostly because of dealing with different bed plate surfaces and the added BTT Klipper complexity. I know the firmware isn't a huge deal and they are gonna merge it back into main Klipper ideally, but still some added time and effort. I also don't really change build surfaces often, but the probe just seemed to remove one more small pain point there. The other reason I went probe is what you mentioned near the en. Ideally you don't need to bed mesh for every print, especially if you use KAMP. So the added speed wouldn't really be a massive benefit. Still a really excellent bit of kit, especially for the money!
I agree that the surface change throws a bit of a wrench in things. I think BTT is coming out with a nozzle probe version too which should address some of that! Thanks for sharing your thoughts, it really helps to provide other opinions and experiences.
@@ButterPockets I still think it's an awesome option. The USB version having the temperature reading and calibration also fixes thermal drift, which I don't think you covered. Would be my choice for a non-contact probe for sure.
I did quickly on the software setup section. I probably should have covered that a little more - it’s worked for me no matter what so the temperature drift compensation is definitely working!
@@ButterPockets to this day I still get discord PMs asking for help because of the lack of initial response from BTT. They've improved which is good, but I agree, I think it's because it wasn't a good look for them when they released 🤣
hi! I also started using Eddy! I have a problem when I print parts with a grid from Eddy. The height of the printed parts increases by about +0.6 mm. What could it be??? FADE is off! If without a grid, all the dimensions are perfect!
Hello, thank you for the great video. I have a Proforge 4 with 4 printheads. Here each individual print head is adjusted using its own process. How does the Z offset work? Everyone has their own configuration so that they all work together? Thanks and greetings Markus
Hi, first excellent details, very well done. I’m looking for a probe for printing in an enclosed space with ambient temperature around 60-70 with a wham bam magnetic plate with a pex spring steel on top. Do you know if the eddy probe would work with my setup. Thanks for your time and great video. I will surely check out your other videos.
I was going to say, 'bummer there is no CAN version'. But it looks like one is coming soon. It would be nice to keep the wiring clean since going through changing over to CAN.
Well funnily enough they just announced an SB2209 USB version like yesterday, which I’ll have to try out soon. Looks like we will be able to pick USB or CAN at some point.
@@williamanthony7224 there’s no maybe, what you just said is correct. It’s robust and used in the automotive industry. It might be more “difficult” to setup, but it’s a robust and tested method. USB is certainly easier, but that doesn’t always make it “better”. USB is much more susceptible to electrical interference, especially from motors that aren’t so great. This is different than say a computer and CAN is almost certainly the objectively better choice. Although, like I said, I’ll probably go USB just to simplify the eddy wiring.
I bought the Eddy and tried inatalling it on the gatry bracket I bought for the stealth burner and it wont fit with the phaetus rapido hotend installed. Im really bummed out
Eddy USB is just better than the coil version, but it’s personal preference. Coil can’t be used as an end stop and doesn’t have thermal compensation. But if you have an EBB36 it might be more convenient to use the coil version.
@@ButterPockets Perfect - Sounds like I know what I'm upgrading to for leveling on my Troodon 2.0 Pro ;) Once again thanks for the vid and thanks for answering the question :)
Since an SV08 is very similar to a 2.4 it would probably work well if your bed/plate are compatible. I just don’t know how it would mount to the tool head since I’m not familiar with it. If an Omron TL-05MC2-Z probe fits then Eddy fits, but I’m not familiar at all with Sovol or what probes they use.
As long as the magnets holding the bed down is a big sheet and not little individual magnets and the actual bed itself has metal inside it (easy to know if it does if it’s magnetic) then you’re good.
I’d have a second look at your probe start macro. It’s my understanding that if you call a second “probe” command without moving the tool head it will error. Are you running two consecutive “probe” commands without moving the tool head?
i need 22sec for a 20.20 Mesh on a 330 vzbot with beacon. Right now, Beacon is far better, cuz of the Contact Probing, but as soon Klipper will implement it, its a nice Probe.
that intro made me chuckle way more than I was expecting
Those Voron colors are sick! Can you drop the filament link?
perfect timing, I'm about to update a few of my printer to either btt eddy, beacon, or cart, just not sure which yet.
I've found that beacon has the best docs and contact works super well. Price tag is definitely a buy once cry once.
I’m using Beacon with the new Contact option which allows it to function as a z stop and doesn’t need all of the paper adjustment. It also doesn’t require you to use a particular build of Klipper. Stock Klipper works perfectly with it. I’m running a 75x75 mesh and it’s amazing.
been testing Cartographer "TAP" function and also works great, it's in closed beta.
Beacon always.
@@ghrayfahx whats beacon sounds like something I'd wanna use as i'm doing small upgrades to my ender 5 pro
I was between this and a MicroProbe V2.0 recently. I didn't go with Eddy, mostly because of dealing with different bed plate surfaces and the added BTT Klipper complexity. I know the firmware isn't a huge deal and they are gonna merge it back into main Klipper ideally, but still some added time and effort. I also don't really change build surfaces often, but the probe just seemed to remove one more small pain point there. The other reason I went probe is what you mentioned near the en. Ideally you don't need to bed mesh for every print, especially if you use KAMP. So the added speed wouldn't really be a massive benefit. Still a really excellent bit of kit, especially for the money!
I agree that the surface change throws a bit of a wrench in things. I think BTT is coming out with a nozzle probe version too which should address some of that! Thanks for sharing your thoughts, it really helps to provide other opinions and experiences.
@@ButterPockets I still think it's an awesome option. The USB version having the temperature reading and calibration also fixes thermal drift, which I don't think you covered. Would be my choice for a non-contact probe for sure.
I did quickly on the software setup section. I probably should have covered that a little more - it’s worked for me no matter what so the temperature drift compensation is definitely working!
@@ButterPockets Nah as long as you mentioned it I just missed it! Wasn't criticizing either way. Solid video.
there's 2 sets of screws, the longer set is for vorons.
I'm not sure if you need the BBT branch any more, its not clear. I wish I got a cartographer as they have tap in beta now.
I feel exposed by that intro ;) Thanks for the intro on the Eddy!
Hey look my guide still getting around 😅 atleast its nice to see BTT maintain it.
Good video 👍🏻
I’m so glad you made the original guide, I think BTT themselves might have been lost without it.
@@ButterPockets to this day I still get discord PMs asking for help because of the lack of initial response from BTT.
They've improved which is good, but I agree, I think it's because it wasn't a good look for them when they released 🤣
hi! I also started using Eddy!
I have a problem when I print parts with a grid from Eddy. The height of the printed parts increases by about +0.6 mm. What could it be??? FADE is off! If without a grid, all the dimensions are perfect!
Hello, thank you for the great video. I have a Proforge 4 with 4 printheads. Here each individual print head is adjusted using its own process. How does the Z offset work? Everyone has their own configuration so that they all work together? Thanks and greetings Markus
Hi, first excellent details, very well done. I’m looking for a probe for printing in an enclosed space with ambient temperature around 60-70 with a wham bam magnetic plate with a pex spring steel on top. Do you know if the eddy probe would work with my setup. Thanks for your time and great video. I will surely check out your other videos.
I was going to say, 'bummer there is no CAN version'. But it looks like one is coming soon. It would be nice to keep the wiring clean since going through changing over to CAN.
Well funnily enough they just announced an SB2209 USB version like yesterday, which I’ll have to try out soon. Looks like we will be able to pick USB or CAN at some point.
You should rip that can out and make it all over usb
@@williamanthony7224 CAN is much more robust, but that may happen
@@ButterPockets maybe over 2 miles of vehicle cabling with hundreds of device
@@williamanthony7224 there’s no maybe, what you just said is correct. It’s robust and used in the automotive industry. It might be more “difficult” to setup, but it’s a robust and tested method. USB is certainly easier, but that doesn’t always make it “better”. USB is much more susceptible to electrical interference, especially from motors that aren’t so great. This is different than say a computer and CAN is almost certainly the objectively better choice. Although, like I said, I’ll probably go USB just to simplify the eddy wiring.
They just released Eddy Duo (usb/can) so it can be wired directly into EBB boards
I have some new stuff already from BTT with videos soon. Just need more time 😅
stupid question but do I plug the usb version into the pi or my octopus? thanks for the video!
I bought the Eddy and tried inatalling it on the gatry bracket I bought for the stealth burner and it wont fit with the phaetus rapido hotend installed. Im really bummed out
Hey, I haven't tried it just yet but I found a special X carriage stl for mounting the Eddy alongside the phaetus rapido UHF hot-end.
You can use 2 wires to usb communication and get 5v and gnd from toolhead
Would still need the data communication right? BTT is sending over the SB2209 USB to me soon so that should get me back to 1 cable!
Which Eddy do I need for a Voron 2.4 Stealthburner? Eddy or Eddy Coil?
Eddy USB is just better than the coil version, but it’s personal preference. Coil can’t be used as an end stop and doesn’t have thermal compensation. But if you have an EBB36 it might be more convenient to use the coil version.
Quick Question How does eddy perform at doing QGL? Thanks in advance :)
Haven’t had any issues with QGL! Hits my variance target within the pass limit.
@@ButterPockets Perfect - Sounds like I know what I'm upgrading to for leveling on my Troodon 2.0 Pro ;)
Once again thanks for the vid and thanks for answering the question :)
Looking to see how well this would work on a SV08.
Since an SV08 is very similar to a 2.4 it would probably work well if your bed/plate are compatible. I just don’t know how it would mount to the tool head since I’m not familiar with it. If an Omron TL-05MC2-Z probe fits then Eddy fits, but I’m not familiar at all with Sovol or what probes they use.
Why the hell do you have a section called "hardware install" where you DON'T INSTALL THE HARDWARE?
Because I INSTALLED THE XCARRIAGE. The Eddy install is TWO BOLTS. Why the hell do you need to see me screw in two bolts???
@@ButterPockets Hey now. Which direction do the screws go? What do they go into? Are there nuts? Are there heat inserts?
What about lidar? Isn't it fast too?
Eddy with kamp is the way. I use cartographer probe and kamp at 800mm/s scan speed. Perfect layers perfect mesh.
Simply curious why not mesh the whole bed?
Is there a way to know if my aliexpress magnetic bed (ender 3v2) would work or not?
As long as the magnets holding the bed down is a big sheet and not little individual magnets and the actual bed itself has metal inside it (easy to know if it does if it’s magnetic) then you’re good.
@@ButterPockets perfect, thank you!
I keep getting Probe triggered prior to movement whenever I got to start a print and it cancels it. Any Ideas?
I’d have a second look at your probe start macro. It’s my understanding that if you call a second “probe” command without moving the tool head it will error. Are you running two consecutive “probe” commands without moving the tool head?
@@ButterPockets not that I am aware of. It happens even when homing.
Does it home X then fail? Home X and Y and then fail? Which part of the homing macro does it fail at?
@@ButterPockets no it will fully home but throw the error after homing.
@@ButterPockets I believe I figured it out. It was due to my safe z home. Once I used their config for it I stopped getting the error.
Sooo wheres the video on the blue Voron
Probably won’t be one haha. I built that a month or so before the green one actually.
i need 22sec for a 20.20 Mesh on a 330 vzbot with beacon.
Right now, Beacon is far better, cuz of the Contact Probing, but as soon Klipper will implement it, its a nice Probe.
Yeah the contact probing for beacon is very attractive. It’s my understanding BTT is looking to implement that as well. Hopefully they do!
@@ButterPockets rn everyone is trying.
But so far, Catograph has a hard time, with Thermal Compesation, so it might take a bit :D
Very good video
As someone that has a bl-touch on all his vorons, i feel attacked at 0:08 🤣
I actually think the BL touch is great, just suggestive 😂
zzzzzzzzz
Mmmm not buy it….
Mmmm okay