Відео

No.

That is extremely labor intensive and moisture sensitive. Not worth it all, I promise.

Yeah... I don't regret over-building that frame at all. It's all good.

You son of a gun!!! haha.

It can reduce the volume a bit but it won't block it. The only thing that can do that is a thick concrete wall.

That's a tough one. The thudding noise? You need a lot of mass to absorb that. Run boards all the way down both sides.

@@arizonaadam3000 I know, it's the worst. Thanks for the tip

Thank you!

And?

That's interesting. I installed a couple of floor vents during the summer for better airflow, but they also made the draft for the stove awesome. It burns better than ever now.

Aww, thank you so much!

LOL.

Not well. Not nearly enough mass. I'm working on a new one that has concrete block and wood. You need something really think to block low frequencies.

😧

@@arizonaadam3000 Adam, It was a joke (OK, it was a bad joke 😁).

@@hazcat640 Oh, I know. I was just being silly, too.

I see your logic but that would just create a huge heat sink to the outside. You'd be burning wood for the birds.

​@@arizonaadam3000I'm only worried about heat transfer to the plywood for fire safety issues, I'm trying to install my wood burning stove on my bus atm, looking at pros and cons of window vs roof

I am looking at how to do it, designs and how other people did it, of course this is temporary and not on a bus, but, still interesting to see how you did it.

@@jwspicy It takes about 700ºF of direct heat to combust wood. I've never had any issues. The stove just doesn't put out THAT much heat. I even have a small plywood and 2x4 table next to it - not shown in this video - but no issues whatsoever. Your biggest issue going through the bus roof would likely be water leaks due to curvature. I think the Tiny Wood Stove company I mentioned sells a kit just for busses. Hope that helps.

@@jwspicy I just had another idea: You could screw or glue sheet metal over the plywood with an air gap between them, using washers as spacers. That would give the plywood more heat protection without the metal conducting heat directly out of the bus.

LOL

You're not the first person to say this, but it' not true. I've had this fire pit for 2.5 years. I just used it last week on my birthday. I've probably made at least a few dozen fires in it, maybe even 50 or more.

@@arizonaadam3000 Maybe there's a difference in where the block was purchased from, manufacturer or how they are made. Block I have used from the local big box store here in South East GA fell apart after about 5 fires. The block crack and then crumbled when picked up.

@@testdepth377 Yeah, maybe you got a bad batch. That should not happen.

Yes. That's for sheer strength and an integral part of the roof assembly. Check out my older vids in my "building an off-grid house" series.

Well, they have to be clean and dry. Plain club soda won't leave a residue but beer will. I've had these cans for a long time and they don't have any mold nor are insects attracted to them. After I rinse them, I leave them in the sun for a day before bagging and storing.

I'm not really sure. I'm not running electrical and plumbing through my cavities, so I guess this is a unique circumstance.

We got a Brit in the crowd, haha.

I addressed a lot of this in the video. The color of the cans doesn't matter because visible light isn't even in the equation here. As long as they are shiny and reflective, they will reflect some IR heat. The foam on both sides is to prevent them from being a conductor, which would be a problem otherwise. I demonstrated that in the vid.

@@arizonaadam3000 Visible light and color dont matter. All colors are black to nfrared radiation. They are non-metallic, organic resins etc. They may have various emission spectra but the reflectivity of a pure metal beneath is lost. You'd be better with PET bottles and a sheet of tin foil. They even sell a foam with mylar layer if you care about radiation so much. Heat loses are mostly caused by the other two - convection and conduction. This applies to clothing too

@@trollmcclure1884 I see your point but I still think you're overthinking the "paint." There are many colored, metal products commercially sold that are Energy Star certified as radiant barriers, such as roofing panels. Anyway, thanks for your feedback.

Yes. You might have noticed a small mockup in the bottom right corner. I will be finishing the room and showing results. I'm also hoping to get a thermal imaging camera by then. Thanks!

Cotton balls perhaps?

You're describing a combination of "the stack effect" and how geothermal works. You have to go really deep below grade for that to work - about 15 ft, if I remember correctly.

Did you listen to the end? He addressed this around the 15min mark... ( It's not a vapor barrier)

I addressed that before the end of the vid. Not a vapor barrier. Too many gaps in the assembly, as opposed to solid sheets.

Hot air doesn't rise; cold air sinks. But I wouldn't over think it.

@@arizonaadam3000 i think hot air does rise though. I think flipping the cans is silly. but it also couldn't hurt lol

Hot air does rise due to the boyant force or the surrounding air, but I agree I wouldn't overthink it. ​@@arizonaadam3000

LOL.

Nice

Haha, no way. This happened in a tight spot during almost total darkness, and they can basically strike the length of their body.

You don't know the half of it, haha.

Thanks, and you too!

Thanks and good luck to you! I've been collecting weird/tacky glasses for a long time. Just some generic glasses I found at a thrift store. There's probably a name for the style but I don't what it is.

You might be right.

I see a few of these every year around Monsoon. Someone said it might be a cicada. I'm not sure. Wish my lighting was better. To me, they look just like an ordinary housefly blown up 10x.