Відео

No, not to my knowledge. So far as I know they are varnish impregnated cotton.

Oh wow, that was a while ago. I don't remember it getting very warm or working well on 120 volt, but I'm pretty sure my automatic control is not working correctly. I'm guessing the capacitors are dried out, and need to be replaced. I've had it in storage ever since that video, but, interestingly, I'm about to move to a place where it will go into service as there is no gas there for my gas dryer. If it still doesn't work correctly on 240 volts, I'll look in to fixing up the controls.

@@realvanman1 my guess is the capacitors have dried out and possible are about to give up the ghost. The electronic dry control on the 1973 Maytag DG606 I picked up in 2019 only worked a few times when testing it to see if it would shut off on Damp Dry, it shut off a few times on Damp Dry but just quit after that. Checked about everything, even jiggled the wires around and still nothing. Since I spent many hours messing with it, I just decided putting a timer in was the simplest and easiest route to go, never had a issue in the 4 years other than a cycling thermostat that wasn’t working correctly and was just cycling on the high limit thermostat. Recently, I put a NOS 407 auto dry timer in, so far so good, certainly a lot less guess work since I set the dryness all the way up, everything comes out perfectly dried within a hour or so.

@@seana806 Yeah, I'm going to re-cap the controller on this one eventually. Old electrolytic caps are pretty well guaranteed to be dried out and bad, or about to be.

@@realvanman1 that could be why my Maytag A606’s were sitting for many, many years judging by the stiff timer on the washer. Could have been that or the standing pilot caused the metal motor clips to snap after being on for many years since the metal clips were broken when I removed the rear panel. I usually keep the pilot off when not in use but since it’s been cooling down, might as well keep it lit since it’s just a little more heat but will turn it off once it warms up again next spring.

There a number of different versions of these. This one is electric start, or rope start if the battery is weak, but still requires a battery to run the ignition. Some of them have a magneto ignition and can be started without a battery. I'd suggest making a post about your Onan here: www.smokstak.com/forum/forums/onan-generators.1/ LOTS of highly knowledgeable folks over there.

They shouldn't smoke like that, and I'm not sure what the resolution ultimately ended up being. Might have had the wrong injectors (too big) for a naturally aspirated engine...

Seems to be almost eol

They actually aren't, cold cathode are able to take on this task just fine

What color are they? I have a similar set but in avocado green and the dryer is a DG306.

Then I'd need one haha! You might try asking here: www.smokstak.com/forum/forums/onan-generators.1/

I had this Maytag in harvest gold same model. I was so stupid that I put it out while it was still working, but it was picked up right away by somebody on the street now I have another one, but I really wanted that model again.

@@petermaz701 I saw your video of it it’s absolutely beautiful. The solid cups are so rare I’ve had one in my collection for a long long time. More videos please!!

That one is also a Crown. It was one of two originally built for Hewlett Packard in the '60's, if I remember correctly.

I don't think the shape itself makes any difference, it's just a personal preference. I've heard that the old Westinghouse Lifeguard lamps were very high quality, long lasting lamps though. I've got white ones and clear ones. I swap them out depending on mood lol. Sounds like you have a neat place there!

Close, 6v92.

Sorry, it was just an update for a friend who’d been helping me out with the project. I should have set it to “private”.

Crown buses handle phenomenally well at speed, but they are often geared pretty low. Installing a taller axle gearset, or at least an overdrive transmission, solves that. I've had mine up to around 70 per GPS, but only because the engine governor is faulty. That was doing maybe 2250 ~ 2300 rpm. 60 or a little more is no problem for mine, all day long.

@@realvanman1 oh, I’m very familiar with crowns in general. I work on them in riverside. Have yet to come across one of those old 220 cummins buses until now. We can fix your governor issues if needed. I’m just curious if the 220 is worth the effort.

They’re certainly good engines, but at this point condition is everything as getting parts is probably getting harder. But, if it starts and runs well, I’d probably just maintain it in good condition. Maybe pull the pan and check the bearings. Check the valve lash and injector settings. I pulled the heads and had a valve job done when I bought this one several years ago. I knew it had a dead cylinder when I bought it, so no surprise to find it had dropped a couple valve seats. I suspect that may be due to overspeed. Now it runs fantastic though. The Cummins in my other Crown is seized, and I’m really a Detroit guy at heart, so I’m building a nice 671 for that bus. I haven't bothered with the governor on this one. It's just as easy to keep it under ~2200. My guess is it's fine, and someone has just turned it up as an incorrect method of obtaining greater highway speed. I did have one many years ago that was stuck in full fuel. That was a wee bit exciting, and that one I did indeed take apart and repair.

Yes, unfortunately. I hadn’t noticed it in person, but also saw it in the video. As such, I never did put it back in service. Someday I’ll take it apart and see about fixing the leak. Will that be a big job?

@@realvanman1 since I’ve taken my 1963 RCA Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII apart quite a few times, it will be fairly easy to work on but will be a little tricky since it’s never been taken apart before. There could be a rust hole in the outer tub that’s causing it to leak, tub seal could be on its way out, or the center post seals are leaking and a lot of the belt drive washers built from 1978 to 1986 all have the short center post which is prone to leaking when they go bad. Might even want to see if the transmission oil has been contaminated since some water may have gotten inside the transmission and that’s another thing all 1978 to 1986 belt drive machines were known for. The transmission wouldn’t have gotten damaged since the tolerances are fairly low and have heard some ran for a few years with little to no oil before it ruined all the gears inside the transmission and there’s literally only a total of 9 parts inside the transmission and can be easily disassembled to change out the oil and clean up all the gears and other parts inside.

Oh wow, that was a long time ago! I believe I may have gotten engine parts from Republic Engine, in Southern California. Electronic parts could be sourced from just about any reputable supplier. I would recommend heading over to Smokstak.com, and starting a thread in the appropriate forum for your unit. There are a lot of great, knowledgeable folks there who would be happy to help you get your machine up and running again. I'm "Vanman" over there.

Hi! Yes, I still have it, stashed away, waiting until such time that I’m able to put it in service.