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How are you testing internal resistance? And what is the current/duration of your voltage drop test?

I have Lexus Es300 problem hybrid battery

hi, can I get this kind of battery technology for my 2010 Lexus RX 450h?

Looking forward to it being available. Hanging on to my original 09 gen2 battery until it becomes available.

You are one smart guy!!!

Looking forward to your next install video, i ordered the new salty battery from jack and got the 50 percent off, great deal. Thanks for a great presentation.

Good presentation, very educational 👍

weight & power comparison please

Hi, do you have whatsapp ? I need a lil help on the Module tester which I also have.

Resistor om ? Tell me

Resiztor om tell me

Older nickel metal hydride batteries are excellent. Very good capacity and high security. but these must be balanced with a shunt circuit so that all cells charge at the same level. Extends the useful life of the battery pack for many years. The most modern NiMH batteries already have the balancing bus cable.

I have a 2nd gen prius was in great shape but sat for 2 years. Battery pack is completely dead going to try this. What do you think?

Glad you included the detail on how to remove the yellow clip (@ 11:05)….that little clip would’ve frustrated me without the instruction on how the retainer slides in order to remove it. My new $50 clock spring fixed ALL the issues and non-working buttons-Thanks for the detailed video!

THANKS coop ...

Okay. Did the install last week. Took two days (maybe 8 hours total) in 100 degree heat in my carport. No helpers, so removing the 80+ pound pack from the Prius V was probably the toughest part (I'm in my 60s). Didn't need to remove the passenger side plastic cover BTW (just pulled the blower motor before pulling out the pack). Could have done this in one day if the factory hadn't over-torqued and stripped the 10mm threads on the end of one of the four rods that hold the pack together. Rethreaded it with a tap I happened to have in my shop. Always something. Sent in the old batteries to the recycler today for a potential $200 rebate (we'll see). Car was averaging 40-43 mpg before the switch (with 73 percent life as measured by the Dr. Prius app). Now getting 48-51 mpg without hyper-miling. Can't really detect much performance difference. Maybe a little faster on starts? Certainly longer duration for using ac while parked or at lights. Worth it? Depends on gas prices and how long you're going to keep the car. Mine is a super low mileage 2013 (27k miles) inherited from my father. May pass it to my stepson if/when I get an EV. Bottom Line: this was a somewhat tedious job with a fairly high level of return in terms of mpg improvement (17-20 percent if my math is good) and basic mechanical satisfaction and bragging rights LOL. Hope this helps anyone considering the swap.

I followed everything to the T. same radio and all. I get triangle of death.

I am doing my Prius V next week and this is extremely helpful. Thanks. Ditch the music..

I have to ask - what is the back to the future readout beneath the stereo head unit there?

Hi, great video. I found you while looking for information about the P3000 and dreaded red triangle which had popped on my 2005 Prius that I've owned since almost new (<1000 miles ex-demonstrator). I first found your piece on TorqueNews which was very helpful and gave me hope that I might not be looking at either a replacement Hybrid battery or worse if not economically viable a new car! Well I managed to extract and test the battery fan - it as fine. Couldn't immediately see the corroded connector so next I located the fan relay and tested that - it was also fine but with a little corrosion on one connector tab - cleaned and refitted. Still couldn't spot the suspect corroded connector so then turned my attention to the "battery blower controller" (which I note seems to have exactly the same part number as the cabin fan blower resistor!) - all connections good on this so assumed I must have the same corroded connector problem - but try as I might I could not see one like it anywhere near the blower fan as pictured in your article. - Much head scratching as obviously there must be a connection somehow to the Battery ECU. Finally thought, if the ECU is on the HV connector end of the battery (opposite to the blower location) that maybe, on my car the cable is routed differently and the suspect connector actually under the trim on the LHS of the car - removed the LH trim and lo and behold there was the dodgy connector and indeed it WAS corroded (in fact one wire broke off completely when I touched it). So hopefully, thanks to your pointers I may have a cheap repair. I've ordered a cable mounted locking plug and socket and I'll just solder them in place of the original and zip tie it securely. Fingers crossed! Having come here to thank you and leave my comment I'v now watched this and find myself thinking - yeah, I really need to do that with my headlamps too! Thanks again, you really helped and now I've found your channel I'll be keeping an eye on your posts as I fully intend to keep my Prius on the road until it's no longer practical.

Level of difficulty on a 1-5 scale? 47! I can't see anything on my MFD in the daytime. No point even looking.

Where can we get good modules from???

I missed how you did the IR testing.

I'm skeptical. How can the HCM "know" how to condition, charge, and discharge Li-Poly? How can it command it to deliver and accept more current that the MGs were designed to accept and deliver with the Ni-Mh batteries? Put a different way, how can the HCM adjust to completely different parameters? Toyota engineers are pretty smart and I find it hard to believe that the car isn't going to know that something is out of spec with the battery pack, and either return a code or operate in a limp home mode. It makes no sense to me.

I know you put this up a year ago but Grom told me (Jun2024) if I didn't have Bluetooth nor navigation originally their system would not help me. Did I miss understand Grom?

Is there a solution for replacing the screen with a central center control panel? My screen is dead.

Why don't you just use dielectric grease? That's what it's for.

Hi Peter, good job in breathing new life to a junkyard Prius, a lot of useful info in the video, I had to subscribe and I'll check your other content 🙂I have also a question please - I actually found your channel thanks to your article on torquenews about how you fixed Prius P0420 error (catalyst below threshold) using a can of CRC Valve cleaner. I have the same issue with my Gen2 Prius and wanted to know how exactly did you apply the spray. Is it OK to remove air filter cover, then have someone to keep engine running and apply the spray directly to the opened intake (to area where I can see the throttle valve/flap). I heard the spray should not get in contact with Mass Air Flow sensor, so I would be spraying well below it. Thanks for your reply!

This great video is Merv approved! Question: When you did your voltage drop test, how big of a load did you use and for how long?

Excellent, detailed video. However @23:58 could have used sone explanation but you cut it out. What exactly did you do there???

Donde compraste las celdas?

I'm so glad I found this video, I'd prefer to use the MFD instead of installing a separate head unit. Question, does this improve the backup camera? Or will there need to be another installed the replace the factory camera?

I have a question. What’s to stop me from, instead of just replacing the screen, putting a screen that has CarPlay capabilities in its place? I know there are other ways, like buying the GROM stereo and hooking it up, but why can’t I take the framing off and then put a different stereo in there (as long as it’s the same size as the other screen) would the wiring be difficult? Or is it an issue with the framing?

Hey! Fantastic videos! Just wanted to ask a couple Q's: I also have an '08 Prius with the top-line JBL speakers and 6-CD changer. I'm pretty picky on sound quality, so I'm wondering if you noticed any significant difference in using Vline vs plugging directly into the AUX port (I use Apple Music). Also, what's your plan if/when the touchscreen itself goes out? My last '08 Prius faded on me and I just purchased another '08 last week (at only 75,000 miles!) with a fully-functioning screen, but I'm trying to plan ahead. Looks like there are a few shops in my area (Dallas/Fort Worth) that can install the Vline (I'm gonna go for the VL2, an upgrade to their original), so hopefully I won't have to worry about installing it myself! PLEASE keep updating us on ways that you have modified your Prius, including what you decided on phone charging. Thanks so much for your help!

Loved the video: how often do you recommend PCV valve replacement on these gen 2 hybrids?

Hi may I have you email address thanks

So been doing some research since my my mileage has dropped down to 34 MPG but no code . Notice that Dr Prius ( on the middle of the pack) reads 30 as an internal resistance. Is it as accurate as it seems ? My voltage dif is never over .07 always under 10 for sure . And was looking at the prolong delux charger to recondition the whole pack. Thoughts ? Should I try and learn and save the pack or buy a whole pack ? Thank you for your time and this awesome video

I’m having trouble getting a hold of the lithium battery for my Gen 2. Nexpower website is sold out on basically everything on their page. Anyone know why? Or where I can maybe get a hold of a lithium battery? Thank you

there are different kinds of upgrades. there is the cylindrical green and orange ones and there is the blocks from nexcell. can you tell me what if any difference they may have?

Hello, I want to say I learnt a lot from your videos, but I am not convinced with the Nexcell build quality. For sure the LiFePO4 chemistry is far superior to the NiMH chemistry in terms of energy density per weight and has a very flat voltage curve between 30 ~ 80 % SOC. The other 2 weaknesses of these Nexcell blades are its tabs that are undersized for the amount of currents it has to carry and inadequate heat dissipation capacity for cooling. Jack the guy making the Nexcell Lithium battery is not telling the whole truth. These cells build quality are questionable, can it really handle the high amperage current it claims when you look at them. For sure he has done a good job of replacing the chemistry of the NiMH with LiFePo4 and adding cell balancing, but there is more to that, what is not mentionned anywhere is the software of the Toyota Hybrid system is not touched. The car has no notion it has a bigger battery in terms of capacity (Ah) and there is no way that it will make better mileage for what it what it was calibrated for! Its good as a battery replacement, but there are customers complaining about the Nexcell cells failing. Wished the product was better well designed or else there would not have been so many revisions, it should have been done right the first time . . . Taking 2 Toyota modules of NiMH {known as a block in Toyota jargon} and replacing it by one Nexcell blade, from 12S to 5S, this a nice drop in upgrade solution. Have a look at one the video where the Nexcell is being fixed ua-cam.com/video/6BC56g3C09g/v-deo.html by its creator. Its like a teardown. Well while Jack deserves a lot of credit for bringing this solution to the market, which consists of replacing the cell chemistry NiMH with LiFePo4 or Lithium Iron Phosphate, by a drop in replacement of two Toyota modules with one Nexcell blade, he does not address the fact that the car has no notion of the new cell chemistry in the battery. NiMH with respect to Lithium Iron Phosphate chemistry have different charge and discharge profile in terms: -> Maximum peak charge and discharge currents as well as for how long -> Maximum sustainable charge and discharge currents without deteriorating the battery health/longevity The Toyota NiMH modules are 6S1P in configuration, since this drop in solution replaces two original modules with one Nexcell module which is 5S2P of LiFePo4 which kind of matches the voltage profile. Thus 12S1P NiMH cells are replaced by 5S2P LiFePo4.

Can we use car play Prius 2010 Radio E7022?

Mine stopped working after i did oil change. Those fuggers tinkered with it so i go back again. EVIL

Do the steering wheel controls work with the unit? When playing music from the phone etc? Or when you get called, all these things... I hate touching around on a screen while driving

Thanks for the video and the tip on the hot glue? I was able to get the top upholstered portion off by just removing the 6 screws on the underside of the arm rest. This Eliminated the need to remove the rear portion of the center console.

I have the same unit. Manufacturer offered me no assistance getting my SWC connected. I'm gutted that I can't get it to work and paid someone $250 to install the $160 unit :( If you have any more tips, please share

Mine is a 2008 Prius and so excited to have found this video and now I can give the new digitizer "the finger" and and can change settings. In order for me to remove the bezel with buttons there was a small wire that needed to be removed. Glad I had the patience to remove the 2 bolt rear cover and then the circuit board 2 screws. With the bracket above the connector removed I had enought wire slack to unbolt the bracket and then remove the 2 connectors by pulling up. Then the bezel with buttons could be moved out of the way.

Thanks for a very informative video. I was waiting for you to explain how you clean the oil from the sparkplug tubes but there must not have been enough to worry about.

Thanks for confirming where the negative side goes

You should talk to the manufacturer and offer to write up good instructions for a discount. I'm a software dev of 20+ years and let me tell ya, good documentation is worth its weight in gold.

Will these instructions work on a 2010 Prius?