Відео

@@firestang70 uh, excuse me, the two whut?

@@OlysGarage it’s been known to happen

@@Foxcanfixit 🤣🤣🤣

@@HRResto so Oxy acetylene torch is the way to go?

Thanks man, I try to still get a video out weekly, but sometimes I just have to do 3-4 shorts instead. Things coming up are: putting the el Camino engine back together, installing the hitch and wiring, ww2 shark mouth mural on the scooter, and a hood release cable on the corvette. Thanks for subbing and sticking with it. Email your address to foxcanfixit@gmail and I’ll send you some channel stickers

@@shootermcgavin2819 the stock thick paper spacer is ok but I agree that a 1/2 to 1” phenolic resin spacer does wonders for fuel boil issues. Here in Ohio the biggest benefits to be had are on stock platforms the restrictors tend to help with initial heating in winter without causing a heat soak hot start issue

@@OlysGarage depends on your intentions. For this one the 305 and 350 heads both have the central exhaust passage and the intake manifold has it, so I am running it as if it’s all stock 1975 el camino. If I swapped the manifold or did more performance upgrades I would probably block the whole passage and then have to swap to an electric choke.

@@Foxcanfixit good answer! I was just trying to screw with you! LOL Great job!!!

@@OlysGarage I know, but I gotta keep on my toes with your questions 😀

@@Foxcanfixit 🤣🤣🤣

@@thesagemonkeymechanic7969 that’s good. I’m about 50/50 on running issues leaving them out when they are called for

@@TheFoxygrandpa69 I cannot even count the number of times I have either left them out or used the wrong gasket that blocked it off all together. I’m trying to do it right for once 😂😀

@@NathansMoparGarage thermal choke, gotta keep it to just 1

It will still get hot

@@Supremedude71 I had already made 1 with the flat edge on the edge of my piece, I didn’t actually cut out the one I traced in red paint. I just didn’t think to film until I cut the 1st one out 🤷‍♂️. But you are 100 correct, don’t waste material if you can help it

@@jayusher576 agreed. The passenger side is A-fine, and B-stuck, so I am just ordering a stock replacement for this cracked drivers side manifold. I’ll keep this one to practice on

@@alfredritcher thanks! I’m going to keep this manifold around so I can practice on it

@@2engjnr2 good info thanks 😀👍

@@doctorlefthandthread thank you Doctor

@@robertdeen8741 hotter than what I could get it with a benzo torch apparently

@@LoFox I appreciate any advice whether it makes me look dumb (which I am a lot) or not

@@RealWorldGarage yeah it’s weird stuff, seems like the welder amperage needs to be low but the cast iron needs to be hot

Yeah he'd have to bake it first but really just replace it

@@NathansMoparGarage I ordered a new manifold, $100. But I am going to continue to practice on this one

@@carfriendsimulator9981 now it lives on as a future practice piece

I bet you can't

@@josuepichardo5718 probably?

@@LarsonFamilyFarm-LLC yeah, just figured I’d try it. Plus now I have it to practice on

@@TheLupopovich it definitely takes more heat and more skill than I have to make it work 😂😂😂

@@jordansche I tried that, but I’ve only got white gas, and it’s just not getting it hot enough. Also my “welder” is just a little flux core welder and probably isn’t powerful enough

@@Romuls753 that’s a good idea, thanks👍

@@danb2936 the can’t mating surface will get cleaned back off before install, it was a masking oversight

*I guess intermittent is the problem, not the part..oops

@@catwil7510 it is the ignition switch. But usually you can’t get it specifically for the Titan without buying the whole key and lock assembly. The one I used is for a Nissan Xterra (it’s the same part) and I found 3 different brand part numbers to try. Carquest CSA1349, Autozone LS809, or Beck-Arnley 201-1825. Hope that helps

Thanks so much for the reply--was just looking thru auto zone and couldn't find it, that explains it! Appreciate your time in finding the part numbers, also! 🤞 found it!

Update: got the part from auto zone using the part number you provided. Was able to change it out myself, hardly took any time at all! And while it ended up not being the problem, was extremely helpful in confirming the problem to be the starter & further, immensely satisfying to be able to do the job myself thanks to your video!! Opened it up and found those points to be really charred & worn, so replacing didn't hurt a thing. Thanks again!

@@catwil7510 well, that sucks that it did not fix it, however I’m glad it narrowed down your issue and you got some satisfaction out of doing it yourself. 👍

@@NathansMoparGarage the Duplicolor can says each coat of paint adds 10hp

@@RealWorldGarage 👍 what’s your thread sealer of choice? I like the Permatex liquid thread sealer

@@firestang70 I believe that be my plan assuming there’s no rust pitting once they are clean

@@dopeylindstrom2236 thanks for the info 😀

@@Ike-i5t COMB THE DESERT!

😂

@@chazdubh3079 that’s probably being generous 😀

@@ozzylowther3142 the source of my problem turned out to be a cam bearing that a machine shop had installed backwards so no oil getting to the drivers side rocker shaft. I ended up removing the rocker shaft and camshaft, then drilling thru the cam bearing from the top with it still installed to fix the issue

@@Foxcanfixit I should probably look into that thanks

@@ozzylowther3142 pulls the drivers side valve cover and start it, if you don’t see oil continuously dripping down the rocker arms and onto the valve springs then you have a blockage of some kind. Hope it helps

@@Foxcanfixit I’ll try it out thanks