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I have a loud clicking sound when I open the door, but the heat and cold blow fine, I’ve checked the passenger side and there are no problems

nice video. I need the part on the 530 mark where you talk about aligning the wide tooth the piece that goes inside the blended unit

Ok so I have a question pls answer so I have a regular stock crazy cart and I want it to go about 20mph what all do I need for it to go that fast

you in VA?

Click onmpassenger side !

Have a 2013 jeep pattiot latitude. Dealership said they dont do actuators onlymhousing $470 crazy!!

The ONE thing you failed to do and what caused the issue is OPEN THE BLEEDER SCREW WHEN FILLING! Even with the engine off you open that screw! Would have saved some of your headache.

Thanks man

Awesome! I keep thinking about these and if even go-kart tiny suspension could be added for a smoother ride on side street concrete (vs smooth wear house concrete).

this Video was so helpful and the only reason i attempted the repair myself. it also took me about 6 hours. i think i could do it in about half the time if i ever had to do it again. i wouldn't do it again, i would just trade the jeep in..lol...not going to lie, it was a bear to do. i am a big guy so lying under the dash was not an option. torx bit electrical taped to a 1/4" wrench was the only thing i had to fit to get the factory screws out. lots of scapes and invented swear words later and i succeeded. thanks again for the video.

Any one know the size of the crush washers??

Another guy on you tube did it in a Ultrasonic, He found Acidic based Toilet bowl cleaner was WAY faster than all those other things this guy tested..... FYI

For future reference, it would have been far less work and less chance of connection issues to just relocate the terminal box to where the plug harness ended. Mounting it to the inside of the tongue/frame where the harness ended would make it far easier to access for future repairs as well. My usual method is to connect the plug harness to the terminal box, secure the plug end of the harness to the tongue/frame with enough slack to reach the tow vehicle connection with enough slack to allow for the sharpest possible turn both ways, and then mounting the box where the remaining length allows typically the inside tongue frame. Once the terminal box is secured to the frame, I install the terminals on the trailer wires and run them from the box to wherever they need to go on the trailer. This keeps the number of connections to a minimum and makes the terminal box much more accessible inside the tongue as opposed to being under the deck where I'll need to be on my back to work on it. Adding all of those connections when you added the length to the wiring harness really increased the chances of electrical issues in the future and was a lot more time and effort than simply moving the box. Not hatin, just sayin.

The leds dont look that bright tho? Or is that just how it seems through the camera? Like you can definitely tell the the fuel and temp part looks way brighter than the speed and rpms as well.

How did you manage to get the screw going in the middle of the throttle to come off the little lift is blocking mine from coming off

Is that a 2002 centre console?

Do I need the blend door actuator or just the blend door gear?

I see you dont have center sealed bearing inside caster, after some time do caster still works normally or it broke because screw or upoer bearing has bent?

Muriatic acid will remove zinc coating On bolts and nuts in a couple of minutes

I bought one of these. I understand that one wire is the plug in to the back of the radio but what is the other wire for and what does that connect to?

Great job explaining the tool in detail. Nice family making the video, cheers....

First off… thank you, I really appreciate your walkthrough and it helped me get to the actuator…but I am still having an issue. My 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee started blowing room temp air on the passenger side…driver side is fine TG, but I’m in Florida and it’s too hot to have AC issues! So I checked the blend door actuator and yes…the plastic gear broke off at the stop…and even though I didn’t need it I decided to replace both the actuator motor and the gear with new OEM parts just to be done with it for under $50. So I believe I installed the parts correctly, it can only go in one-way right? Before I installed it tho, I manually tested the door first and it moves freely…I also tested the motor and let it dangle while I powered on the car…I tried holdingon to it to see if some resistance would stop it like the gear stop is supposed to do right? Wrong…that motor did not feel like it was going to stop, or am I missing something here? Shouldn’t it stop with some resistance? Anyway…I really had no other alternative other than to just install and test it …and so I did just that and I’m pretty sure I installed it correctly…it can only go in one way right? I slipped on the gear to the inner gear 1st…with the large tooth to the large gap…then adjusted the actuator/stem to line up and screwed it down. I’m wondering if this is the point where I didn’t line it up correctly somehow. So after installing the actuator/gear and removing battery power for 30 min to recalibrate…I cranked it up and all I can hear from the actuator was a loud clicking noise like the plastic gear just sheared off the stop again! I don’t think I need to pull it off again to figure that out as its exactly the same…cold air on the driver and room temp on the passenger side. I’m puzzled as to why when I crank up the heat on the passenger side that works with no problem…it just doesn’t get cold when I crank it down! I don’t wanna give up yet my bruthas…any help would be appreciated….thx again

First off… thank you, I really appreciate your walkthrough and it helped me get to the actuator…but I am still having an issue. My 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee started blowing room temp air on the passenger side…driver side is fine TG, but I’m in Florida and it’s too hot to have AC issues! So I checked the blend door actuator and yes…the plastic gear broke off at the stop…and even though I didn’t need it I decided to replace both the actuator motor and the gear with new OEM parts just to be done with it for under $50. So I believe I installed the parts correctly, it can only go in one-way right? Before I installed it tho, I tested the motor first and let it dangle while I powered on the car…I tried holdingon to it to see if some resistance would stop it like the gear stop is supposed to do right? Wrong…that motor did not feel like it was going to stop, or am I missing something here? Shouldn’t it stop with some resistance? Anyway…I really had no other alternative other than to just install and test it …and so I did just that and I’m pretty sure I installed it correctly…it can only go in one way right? I slipped on the gear to the inner gear 1st…with the large tooth to the large gap…then adjusted the actuator/stem to line up and screwed it down. I’m wondering if this is the point where I didn’t line it up correctly somehow. So after installing the actuator/gear and removing battery power for 30 min to recalibrate…I cranked it up and all I can hear from the actuator was a loud clicking noise like the plastic gear just sheared off the stop again! I don’t think I need to pull it off again to figure that out as its exactly the same…cold air on the driver and room temp on the passenger side. I’m puzzled as to why when I crank up the heat on the passenger side that works with no problem…it just doesn’t get cold when I crank it down! I don’t wanna give up yet my bruthas…any help would be appreciated….thx again

I just did this mod and I have to say this actually makes riding more dangerous. with the narrowness of the stock wheels, the cart can go into a bit of a controlled drift without pulling the bar up, which can keep you from tipping much better. With how wide these wheels are, they really resist rotating unless the bar is pulled, which mean a high speed turn without the drift bar up is much more likely to flip the cart. I might honestly go back to the other setup.

Awesome vid. Really one of the best I seen. Thx much.

700 for a professional one that works

Weeks your funny 😊

Thanks! I thought you had to lock the cams down(?) so they won't move affecting timing.

Hi ! Where did you get that screw?

One of the tiduious jobs I’ve done my back hurts a good light will help 100%

Better view and makes it worse

🤮

Why didn't you edit that flat battery shit out?

Where did you get the zinc bolt kit?

Do you have the number part for the cup holder? Thanks!

I just replaced this driver side gear on my wifes WK2 Hemi and that was a P.I.T.A I swore the whole time 😂 now that I seen the duct work next to the screws comes off like a clam shell I will be two times as fast when I inevitably have to replace it again. Also I sprayed a little bit of lithium grease where the gear goes in for luck I guess to lubricate the blend door 🤷🏽‍♂️ I read that's why they snap is from friction/resistanfe against the gear. Stupid design nonethless 🎉

Lots of people complaining it doesn't pick up signal

ayo the battery link does not take me to a battery lmaoo

Very helpful !

your machine is so quiet! mine makes a loud buzzing noise ... is that normal?

You can use a sharpie marker on the super bright bulbs and the "hotspots"

Why didn’t you show us when you used the second system you creep

Does it matter if it matches if you painted them with crayons 😂

Both are junk , they both are the worst .

Can you give us the link for the unions and stuff please

On the small model, you put casters on the front what is the size of the casters. Thanks

Thank you for this video 😊

After cleaning with any of these products (except the muriatic acid), you need to thoroughly rinse off the part with water and then either protect it with a coating of oil or paint it. The part cleaned with muriatic acid needs to be immediately soaked in a solution of water and baking soda after cleaning to neutralize the acid, then rinsed off with plain water, before oiling or painting. Without neutralization, the acid will continue to erode the metal and could damage it beyond repair. Muriatic acid works the fastest and best because it doesn't actually discriminate between the rust and the underlying metal. It just starts attacking the exposed surface of the metal until you either take it out and neutralize it or the metal is completely gone. You have to remain vigilant to remove the part from the muriatic acid just after the rust has been removed, but before the underlying metal is damaged. A tricky balancing act. The other rust removal products you tested may be slower, but are much safer to use, both for the part being cleaned and yourself.

So was it blowing cold air or no air before the fix? Mine was blowing cold on passenger amd hot on driver.

If your paint is too think you just need to remove the filter at the bottom.of the tube. Its in thr instructions