Відео

not massively clues up on the CANBUS networks, but if you’ve got comms with the one but not the other i’d be inclined to say fault is elsewhere with another module or wiring creating a short or open circuit on the MS CAN line

@@KylesCarsYT it's on my old cluster. New one works so fault seems isolated to the old ipc. Sometimes works when heats up so I though I'd reflow connections and ic's but no luck

@@joeclarke1222 sometimes they don’t always work and there’s other damage on the board than just solder joints. Actually the one i based this video off didn’t work in the end, it lasted another 2 weeks tho, i ended up replacing it, but lots of others i’ve repaired have work. Sometimes you just get unlucky and the cluster is just unrepairable, i probably should have mentioned that in the video, and a few years on i watch back and see ways i could’ve simplified and explained things better, but it only started showing errors again after i posted the video and unfortunately on UA-cam once it’s posted I can’t edit it without reposting, and with all the views this one’s got it’s not viable to repost, i will probably make an updated video when I get chance and leave both intact.

Yea DAB radio works. This headunit has its own DAB aerial hence the cars built in one isn’t used, the one included with the unit is much better quality than the cars one

@@KylesCarsYT Do you have a central speaker in the dashboard? I have a s-max and it has a big speaker above the central vents. But for some reason when I install the xtrons unit the central speaker isn't working. The other speakers work fine. Is your central speaker working?

@@dallan7740 the central speaker is part of the stock headunit, it should ONLY be used for bluetooth calls / satnav read out if it’s working correctly. The stock radios however are renowned for issues where it’ll play out of the central speaker when it shouldn’t. The central speaker shouldn’t be used for music as it degrades the audio quality, you’re much better off removing that (useless) speaker and fitting the storage box instead.

@@KylesCarsYT Wow, didn't know that. Thanks for the response!

i used F43 in engine bay fusebox, but you can use any that’s ignition live if you want them as DRL’s, or wire into the sidelights so they work on sidelights only

PLCC2 LEDs fit and work fine for changing the colour or replacing failed ones, they aren’t the same as what’s fitted, but they do fit the solder pads fine and are what everyone uses to modify these with.

it might run for a short while but i wouldn’t trust it, the car will keep performing random checks to make sure the immobiliser is still there and functioning and if not shut off- that’s why the cluster fault happens and peoples cars cut out. Also you’ve got the issue of if you accidentally stall that’s it game over, and you could gurantee you’ve driven for years and haven’t stalled since. you had the car and got used to the clutch, and. now you can’t restart it be the moment. you stall again.

can use whatever you like, ST24/ST200 engines are something that’s been done a few times.

yes it affects them more in the cold weather. I’m in a lot of car groups and the last few weeks this issue gets posted up at least 3 times every day i’m sharing this video like crazy at the moment

@@KylesCarsYT thanks for getting back to me I'll get a look at mine on Friday. Car is up at my mother's currently stranded there. Garage looked at the car and said they didn't know what's up with it.

I notice you didn't mention that Fiesta immobiliser is connected to the cluster. Do you know if it is?

@@hendoiii3487 i believe they are tho not 100% sure

@@KylesCarsYT thanks I'm going to attempt to repair mine over Christmas period. Hopefully I can get it back to life and get mot done 🤣

Xtrons Android 12, 2gb RAM, 32gb storage

@@KylesCarsYT Cheers!

It's the xtrons head unit for fords. There's a newer one now with 4gb ram/64gb storage and android 13. His description says it's 10 inch but I think it's actually 7 inch

@dallan7740 l measured the screen myself and can confirm it’s 10”

in desc.

euro car parts

still 1.8 but same process for both engines.

@@KylesCarsYT currently on 1.6 si and looking to go to 1.8, 2.0 or st170 just wondered if any of the mounting was different

@@AdotJdot90 same engine other than bigger internals. just need the engine, ecu and inlet with injectors. You can also use blacktop out of a Focus but that requires a little more work

@user-mx3zp1ms1g if you go 2.0 it’s one of the best and simplest swaps with mondeo mk1 silvertop as you’ll have nearly everything you need on your old engine, you have to swap the sump, and oil pickup off your 1.6 tho as Escorts are designed slightly differently underneath, you can use your 1.6 ancillaries and exhaust manifold etc, you’ll need a 1.8 inlet, exhaust manifolds are all the same tho so your 1.6 one will be okay for that, and run it on a 2.0 mondeo ECU or Escort 1.8 ECU tho you’ll need to re pin the loom connector for the mondeo 2ltr one. Other option is 1.8 Escort engine and convert it to 130 spec with 2.0 / fiesta rs1800i cams and it’ll actually make the same power near enough as the 2.0 mondeo engine. The actual 130s used a different inlet manifold and ECU from the normal 1.8 but the regular “115 spec” ones are more than capable for converting to 130 spec still and you’ll still get the benefit from fitting just the cams. Mines currently standard engine wise, standard 1.8 115bhp inlet manifold, 3” cold air inlet with repositioned MAF to accommodate new filter location, and ST170 exhaust manifold. I will be fitting 130 spec/2.0 cams later on.

you can replace the cluster, HOWEVER it will need programming to the car and to your keys as it forms the immobiliser. You’ll also need two keys so if you or a previous owner has lost the spare at some point in the cars life you cannot do it without having a new key made up ready to be programmed either, and it can’t be a clone it must be a new key ready for programming

the mk5 bumper bolts straight on a mk6 yes, they are essentially the same car minus a few structural changes other than the obvious design changes, however it doesn’t actually line up with the bonnet? grille or headlights correctly. A full mk5 front end is a direct bolt on to a mk6, you just need bumper, bonnet, lights and bonnet catch. I’ve got the mk5 XR3i bumper as A) damaged the original mk6 one and this was cheap locally, and b) I am doing a mk5 front end conversion in the future anyways so it makes me half way there, although most who do mk5 conversions go for the earlier front end, I want to go for the later 5b front end (with smiley grille in bonnet) as it’s lesser seen, and personally I prefer them altho most prefer the earlier 5a bonnets.

a lot of people do hate the Mk6 and for good reason. It was a facelift of a facelift of the Mk5 trying to improve what everyone felt Ford wrecked in comparison to older models. When the Mk5 came out practically everyone criticised it over the Mk4 so within less than 24 months Ford has to release a facelift-the mk5b to try rescue the Escort name. This didn’t work so they tried once more with the Mk6 but it was too late and it literally became a parts bin raid to finish up stock and ultimately lead to the killing off of the Escort name Me personally I prefer the Mk5 massively over the Mk6, BUT this matched exactly what spec I was after while remaining affordable. I’m in the process of doing a Mk5 conversion on it.

Agreed. The Mk2 Astra was a better car for the price during this period.

@@F4Insight-uq6nt that was exactly it, the Escort was trying to compete with likes of the Astra that were incomparable in comparison, Ford couldn’t make the numbers anymore that’s what killed off the Escort name.

I got a escort van don’t see many mk6 escorts around my way keep up the video

Sounds like maybe the cluster needs replacement or the plug on the wiring harness is damaged. The cluster forms a connection for the throttle pedal so this is another common symptom. 9/10 times the solder joints crack and resoldering repairs it as shown in this video, but sometimes the tracks get damaged on the boad from the broken solder joints allowing some movement in the connector, and then vibrations from driving tear the tracks, OR the software corrupts from having a poor connection. Check the plug first and make sure non of the wiring pins have come adrift, but potentialy think about replacing the cluster. The issue with repalcing the cluster as it forms part of the immobilser the keys need to be reprogrammed before it will start. This can be done with FORScan BUT you will need 2 keys, it cannot be done with just 1 if the spare has got lost sometime, and you will need the extended licence on FORScan which you can get a two month free trial of. The clusters are the same as you said across Focus Mk2 and Kuga Mk1 models so any cluster of those will work- part numbers not important just match diesel to diesel - petrol to petrol. You can upgrade the older style clocks like in my video to the newer Facelift ones with a bigger LCD and silver trim, straight swap and just program the key as normal and your good to go, but being a Kuga yours will already have these newer style clocks in.

need to get it plugged in and find the codes really. There is no self diagnostics, people (wrongly) tell you online you can get DTCs using the cluster secret menu, however you cannot. the “DTC” that come up are irrelevant and not actual fault codes, these are some kind of hidden code that only Ford understand and aren’t “Diagnostic Troubleshooting Codes” Sounds very likely it is your cluster at fault, but best to get it plugged into a proper computer if you can (Ideally FORScan)

my car was focus mk2

focus mk1

did i ask…

i did that before but i have broken a needle before using that method and found this way the easiest and less likely chance of damage

it’s a manual