Ford cluster fault (Mondeo, Focus, C-Max, S-Max, Galaxy, Kuga etc.) U1900 DTC
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- Опубліковано 3 лют 2021
- The cluster fault is a common fault that happens on Ford cars, made from around the 2000s onwards. This includes Focus, Mondeo, Galaxy, C-Max, S-Max, Fiesta, Kuga models etc, plus more.
What happens? This is a time that lead free solder was being used in factories over leaded solder. This brittle solder breaks up overtime from the joints expanding and contracted from being heated and cooled over its lifetime. These brittle joints eventually break up and cause a poort connection causing all kinds of issues on the car, including the dashboard lighting up like a christmas tree, gauges freezing or dropping to zero, the dashboard just going off, immobilser activated or even the radio acting up.In this video I am talking about what happens, and how to fix it. This video is based on a 2005 Ford C-Max but the repair process is the exact same procedure across the whole range of models; the exception is the removal from the car being slightly different. - Ігри
This video is absolutely spot on. Just fixed my C-Max instrument cluster which was lighting up like a Xmas tree, chiming and giving me every error message under the sun, as well as refusing to start on occasion. Just one point to mention: If the check engine light is still staying on, don't panic. When you've started the car enough times (about 5 or 6 I think) successfully without the fault reoccurring, the light will go out.
Lately i have experienced several split seconds eml-alarms in my car (Focus 2008 1.6 TDCI) with "reduced acceleration" showing up, and also that it would not start at all. I read out the fault codes using Forscan, and the list looked like the was a copy of yours. Yesterday i teared apart the cluster and soldered it, deleted the DTC prior to doing this, no codes after i installed it again, and even the U1900-20 that has always been there even if the car was running fine has gone. Thanks a lot for your educational video!
You have been the most informative accurate and factual presenter I have watched on you tube covering this problem of the instrument cluster ignition issue thank you for reiterating my amateur reasoning with your professional one much appreciated my friend
Worked like a dream on ford Kuga 2008 mk1. Thanks. Saved a fortune in fees.
Wow I’m glad I’ve found your video, my 2007 galaxy has an issue where all the dash would just go dark, bang the dash and it would come back but it’s got more and more frequent, just done a service / brakes etc and it started on the ramps , removed from ramps and checked it with my xtool reader and I’ve got all those cluster comms codes coming up cos my reader is bi direction I done the testing and now the bloody thing just turns over without starting , another scan and yet again same codes reference the cluster so I know what I’ll be doing today when I get home lol
Thank you for taking the time to explain this issue. This will help me a lot.
Great job. Good on you for showing the test after the repair and clearing the fault codes after the repair.
Super video Kyle. I've go two old C-Maxes (06 & 08) and I've had to repair both. In fact I'm just about to RE-repair one!! You've got to laugh?? Another thing I would suggest (as a lifetime DIYer) is to use bubble wrap or rags stuffed underneath the cluster before you remove those 2 screws so that you haven't got to hunt for them down in the bowels of the dash! We used to do that when removing air-filters from the carbs. One screw down there caused a HELL of a work!! Think ahead :)
NoAxe
aha yeah C-Maxes do have their funny moments sometimes, and great tip i wouldn’t of thought of that until you said!
If you are interested in it, there’s a group on facebook called “Ford C-Max Mk1 & Mk2 Owners Club” you can join, i’m in there and it’s a bit of both a club of modifications and modified cars, but also help and tips on C-Maxes. facebook.com/groups/1749096582003097/?ref=share
@@KylesCarsYT Much obliged Kyle, I'll have a look see! 👍
Thanks mate ! This problem happend twice this week, maxie would not start. My wife said : "hit it like Fonzy !" And so I did. Started right up but in a limping mode...I have the cluster in my man cave now ready to undergo surgery...
Thanks for video! I just added some solder to the connector joints and everything works perfectly!
Thank you for the video. I did this yesterday on my Focus following your tutorial and so far so good. Thanks.
Big thanks! just repaird my foucs 2007, it had the same symptoms, so i decided to do it myself, follwed your steps, and booom it worked well. just bout cheap soldering pen and some screw drivers , in fact its my first time to solder . thanks mate.
Just completed this on my SMax. So far so good! Thanks!
I am going to try this myself. I have been wasting money changing cluster for my Ford focus 2007. Thanks 👍 for this
Brilliant pal helped me out with the c max ,took out the clocks and took it to the local computer shop guy up the road and he went over it with a solder iron for a £10 , , your that good I've subscribed, 👍
Very informative Kyle. Gave me the confidence to give it a go on a Mk4 petrol Mondeo. I noticed a few differences or points of interest which might be of help to some. Firstly, I easily got to the disconnect the loom point but the clip looked odd. So, for those who may worry about breaking it, on top of the main grey plug is another black part that fits over the the main plug and down both of its sides. This is the clip that holds the plug into the socket on the cluster. To release it you pull up at the loom end and it swings over the top towards the other end of the plug. In so doing it part pulls out the plug from its socket and you can then fully detach the plug.
I got the covers off but on my model the centre LCD display is attached to the main circuit board by two flat flexible cable (FFC) strips. You have to slide out a small brown retaining clip from each of the pcb connecting socket after which the FFC can be teased out. Then the pcb can be removed. It was a bit of a fiddlle to get one of them back in as far as I felt it had originally been located but it works.
I've soldered a lot of things but found my pins quite small and tight compared to Kyle's image. I was not confident I had not connected two pins inadvertently with solder so I took some close up images and blew them up to check that each re-soldered pin was not connected to anything else. It took a few goes but I got there. I used a small pointed soldering pin that I had filed to make it quite thin and sharp.
My cluster had been randomly and increasingly flashing on and off for months but now its ok. When it went off I could drive but I lost all the display as well as the indicators although the external lights and their controls all worked. SatNav worked but lost night sense dimming.
Very satisfied Kyle. Thank you.
Incredibly informative, thanks for this.
I love the tutorial but I admit I was laughing so hard when the needle is at the wrong position 😂 🤣. Man all those masking tape and markings went to dump lol. Love your vid
Thanks a lot because your guide was very helpful. I fixed my Focus mk2 instrument cluster doing exactly what you explain.
Mines having the same issue, is it hard to solder.
@@dylanwalsh195 not at all. I just soldered those that were cracked to the naked eye and that's it! I'm not a technician or something like that so go for it.
Thanks Kyle. Solved problem instantly.
for me worked perfectly, but not untill i reset the power, after soldering i needet to disconnect the battery for a min, and it started, thanks a lot man this video is golden
my car was focus mk2
Top job mate got this fault on a 2008 2.0 tdci titanium at the moment, very helpfull
just got a used Ford Fiesta 2008 today. Got it cheap because the Fuel Gauge is not working. Ford want 600 to 700 € for the repair. cant wait to check this tomorrow. thx for the tips !
Fixed my car today thanks to you
Always check the harness socket pins on those Ford Clusters as well. Because that's another really common area that they Crack.
Thx you Bro ! You help me a lot ! I fixed my cluster !
Excellent video !! Touch wood mine hasn't gone wrong... yet lol
Brilliant video thanks for making this 👌
Thanks for making this video, best I've seen so far. About to attempt the fix. 🤞
Glad you found it helpful. Hopefully it works out for you, it's usually just the solder joints on that main connector want reflowing.
Thanks so much for this fantastically clear video I had tried watching several others but none of them had left me with the confidence to actually try this.
But with my MOT looming and having watched this video several times yesterday I took the plunge did it and today the car passed it's MOT!!! THANK YOU. X
Very helpful thanks
Great video ,,I've got a 08 focus tdci qn keep getting the engine malfunction light on an then lose power In 2nd and 3rd the guy who had the car before me told he'd already resoldered the cluster also getting no error codes been on 3 diagnostic machines any help would be appreciated 👍
hi there ..fiesta mk6 facelift 2008 …i do led conversions on the cluster ..ie change colour from green to what ever required ..got an old cluster board and a section of loom with plug ..can u tell me which coloured wires from the plug on back of the pcb board i need to use to get it to power up ( ie all the gauges and the lcd display ) out of a car to test the leds after changed ..any advice greatly appreciated ..thanks
Great video, thanks for the info. I have a few u codes. My cmax 2.0 tdci 2004 has an intermittent problem where it will not rev but will idle. It sometimes happens while driving and I come to a stop. It is very dangerous. I read online that the throttle position sensor signal goes through the instrument cluster on its way to the computer. Do you think that this is possible. Note: I have already tried many other things like fuel filter,egr,throttle body and sensors.
Yeah check the cluster, also check the connections on the fuseboard, common issue on C-Max is the connections come loose.
Also if you’ve got Facebook; i’d reccomend joining and asking on “Ford C-Max mk1&mk2 Owners Club” a great group, i’m in it, full of helpful people, and there’s a few guys who do specific things like engine carbon cleaning, and there’s a bloke called Adam who sells good quality used spares if you need anything.
facebook.com/groups/1749096582003097/?ref=share
Hi great advice.I’m at the point where you paused the video. How did you remove the pcb ? It won’t clip off freely. What did you do at that point to get it off ?
just a bit of persistence and carefully popping those clips to release the PCB. They are quite stiff but also becareful not to break them. Use something like a plastic pry tool so you don’t damage the PCB
Hi, ive a mk4 mondeo every now and again instrument cluster dies, as do all displays, radio and heater controls work, just no display, its intermittent, somwtimes seconds sometimes up to 30 mins, wouls this be same issue? Thank you
Thanks bro! 🙏🙏
Hey! Don't know if you will reply because it's an old video but it would really be appreciated. I have the exact same faults and tapping on the dash solves it for a while. My question is before the re-solderind do you recon i've got a chance of fixing it by just cleaning the connector ?
No, the fault is the solder joints crack. The only way to fix them is to reflow the joints
@@KylesCarsYT Thanks for the quick answer!
What soldering kit do you recommend my smax cluster is intermittently cutting out during driving. I've had a look at the soldering looked OK so I put it back. Think like you say it's not visible. Not really soldered alot wondering what gauge/kit you recommend?
yeah on the S-Max’s when the cluster starts to go it’ll randomly start just dieing while your driving, and you may notice the radio acting up too, i.e not coming on with ignition or turning itself on and off, that’s because it takes its feed from the cluster; but this doesn’t always happen.
If it’s just a one off job, a cheap iron and 60/40 leaded solder. I use a proper station but that’s because i do electronics myself regularly as a side hobby.
You can get a cheap iron off ebay for around £10 which is fine for the one off jobs, solder again search ebay for “60/40 lead tin solder” and you’ll have a range of choice for not too much money- the 1mm stuff is about what you want
@@KylesCarsYT thank you, perfect reply and it's EXACTLY as you say: radio went on and off and on and off all the time. I disconnected it in the end as it was draining the battery (figured it was a duff radio). The battery was a problem as it died on us whilst on holiday so I replaced it. Then the cluster went on and off again whilst driving and sometimes stationary. I went for an £11 iron off of Amazon in the end. Tbh I've no idea what the solder was. I waited for a good weather, spare time day and had a go at this, I went round all the board too. I've just put it back, seems OK but we'll see..keeping fingers crossed! :)
It's still broken after resoldering a couple of times. Perhaps it's a duff joint on one of the chips?... 2008 S Max 2.2 tdci. Cluster is very intermittent. Removed radio and it's still very intermittent.
@@JamesPond-cd3tp possibly. It’s not unheard of for the clusters to go totally where they are irreparable, it does happen tbh
Can the cluster heat needle motor been changed. Or do you know How to fix that? My heat gauge is not working at all.. sorry my bad English
RED Arrow showing for sometime in dashboard of my Ford Focus 2006 .What does it mean?
Shame the actual soldering and fixing part is sped up and so far away, and not visible. A slow motion close up of your solder work would have been greatly appreciated. Looks like you have some good skills there, we d like to see them. Many, including myself, been soldering for years, but rarely on complex circuit boards. So we need guidance. The solder points look tiny, what about a budget microscope? I'm guessing the eyesight of most people would not be good enough to see the points in the first place without some kind of magnification? Oh and your tape to keep dials correct is a great idea BTW:) 💡
Hi, would this same process work on a 2002 Focus?
You have great knowledge thank you,
My question for you if you could advice please,
I just bought off a private seller a Ford focus TDCI 1.6 2011. when I lock the car with the emobliser by clicking twice` everthing goes off apart from the screen between the speedo and rev counter it takes several minutes befor it shuts down,
Theres no issue that comes up But I did take battery out to charge up .but I cant remember if it did this befor I only just got the car, in your opinon could there be a solder joint issue or some thing else,
Any advice would lead me to look,
yeah that’s normal. The car stays awake for about 20 mins or so after locking. After that time the car should go to sleep which will turn off the dash, and the interior lights and 12v ports should also switch off (so you can’t accidentally leave the lights on for exmaple and flatten the battery)
@@KylesCarsYT Oh` the interior lights go out straight away its only the centre screen just below the flashing red alarm light,but I know what you mean about the car going to sleep,does this use much power from the battery, as i am trying to find out why I have a battery power drain parasitic draw,,
my ford fiesta never stayed on like my focus does this is why my concern.
@@piecetoyou8285 yeah light will go out straight away, but i mean if you leave the switch in the always on position, they’ll eventually also go out.
But yeah it’s normal, and how it should be. If you’ve got a battery drain, is your battery definitely up to scratch? this time of year the cold really shows up bad batteries, so even if it works fine 90% of the year, the cold hits and makes them drain.
@@KylesCarsYT cheers mate you have been very helpfull,thanks again,
I own a 2010 mk2 focus the starts fine but the light flashes and the radio sometimes cuts out like a cd skipping would that be a cluster fault aswell
Get yourself a roll of leaded electrical solder and you'll solve the issue permanently. Lead free solder hardens up too much. Which causes it to Crack. The lead prevents it from solidifying as much so it actually has some give to it because it's softer. So the chances of the joint cracking is significantly lower. So again if you replace the lead free solder with leaded solder it will permanently fix the issue. You might have to look around a little bit for leaded solder but it is still available. You just have to do a little bit of homework to find it.
Hi Kyle, just wondering if you could help me out?! I have a similar problem however the instrument display isn’t lighting up and it isn’t showing any faults or anything. My issue is that the digital display in the centre of the dash isn’t working anymore, I can’t see the mileage, distance til empty, outside temperature etc etc… Is this going to be the same kind of issue and kind of fix?! Thanks and great videos mate!!
possibly could be bad joints on the display, or it’s not uncommon for the screens to fail either, but that would require a replacement cluster as screens aren’t easily available.
@@KylesCarsYT ok thanks mate!! I appreciate you getting back to me so quickly!!
Hello Kyle,my ford focus 08 is showing engine malfunction and power steering malfunction is this the cluster?
Brilliant.
I’m impressed
Hey, great video. Sent my cluster off twice for repair, got it back yesterday. Still having issues. start the car, engine malfunction and esp light up, not in limp mode, but acceleration is very sluggish. Running live data the 2 accelertor position sensors are odd... D reads 0%.....E fluctuates up and down. Playing with the connector on the back of the cluster, i can sometimes get it to read 0%, thus being able to start the car with no errors, and acceleration is fine. Could it still be the cluster? Or possibly a wiring fault between the pedal and the cluster?Actually put a new pedal on, so i know it isnt that!! If you have any advice id appreciate it....Its a mk1 2009 kuga.But uses the same cluster from the focus etc. Many thanks.
Sounds like maybe the cluster needs replacement or the plug on the wiring harness is damaged. The cluster forms a connection for the throttle pedal so this is another common symptom. 9/10 times the solder joints crack and resoldering repairs it as shown in this video, but sometimes the tracks get damaged on the boad from the broken solder joints allowing some movement in the connector, and then vibrations from driving tear the tracks, OR the software corrupts from having a poor connection. Check the plug first and make sure non of the wiring pins have come adrift, but potentialy think about replacing the cluster. The issue with repalcing the cluster as it forms part of the immobilser the keys need to be reprogrammed before it will start. This can be done with FORScan BUT you will need 2 keys, it cannot be done with just 1 if the spare has got lost sometime, and you will need the extended licence on FORScan which you can get a two month free trial of. The clusters are the same as you said across Focus Mk2 and Kuga Mk1 models so any cluster of those will work- part numbers not important just match diesel to diesel - petrol to petrol. You can upgrade the older style clocks like in my video to the newer Facelift ones with a bigger LCD and silver trim, straight swap and just program the key as normal and your good to go, but being a Kuga yours will already have these newer style clocks in.
On my fiesta 07 plate going over a ridge or bump sometimes the engine cuts out or tries to but starts with the key straight away
Does this issue also effect the 2010 galaxy with the large LCD cluster display and LCD multimedia player, ie titaninum X model
Great video.
yes all models of ford 2000 onwards
Hi mate thank you for this video, I know it's an old video but I wondered if you think this soldering issue might be my problem. My car is a 2008 ford c max 1.6 petrol.
Firstly I got 'engine damage' message followed by 'acceleration reduced' when driving then got to my destination. Driving back it was fine and had gone away.
Then used it 3 or 4 more times, absolutely fine.
Then yesterday driving it again it says 'engine malfunction acceleration reduced' again, but this time my esp light came on and stayed on even if I switched esp off or on. I drive it today and it's fine for an hour.
I ran the cars self diagnostics and it came up with E510 & D900.
In a month I'm due to go on holiday with the kids which will be a 4 hour drive and don't want to drive for 4 hours in limp mode lol.
I'm also a ham fisted idiot so I'm sure I will break something if I try this repair. But will give it a go if you are pretty sure this is my problem.
The c max is a great car, this is the first problem I've had with it and having a disabled wife and 2 kids it's perfect to get the wheelchair and all our holiday stuff in without being an overly massive car.
need to get it plugged in and find the codes really. There is no self diagnostics, people (wrongly) tell you online you can get DTCs using the cluster secret menu, however you cannot. the “DTC” that come up are irrelevant and not actual fault codes, these are some kind of hidden code that only Ford understand and aren’t “Diagnostic Troubleshooting Codes”
Sounds very likely it is your cluster at fault, but best to get it plugged into a proper computer if you can (Ideally FORScan)
Hi having a random message of engine failure service now was told it was a dpf needed cleaning now had that done but same message has come up now says TCM is not communicating any ideas thanks
I have a 2005 Cmax and I am having a problem where intermitently, some of the instruments on the cluster will light up and the speedo will go to zero. At the same time, if the headlight are on, both headlamp bulbs will blow at the same time. The car continues to run fine.
Could this be a solder issue on the instrument cluster.
Thanks for your help.
sounds like alternator if i’m honest. When it fails and it’s putting too much power out it’ll cause bulbs to blow, and modules such as the instrument cluster will shut down to protect itself from the too much voltage.
I wish to change the backlight colour.can you help and tell me which type of led I have to buy to replace existing light?
PLCC2 LEDs fit and work fine for changing the colour or replacing failed ones, they aren’t the same as what’s fitted, but they do fit the solder pads fine and are what everyone uses to modify these with.
Great job. I would not have the confidence to fix it myself. Guess l will have to find someone to do it . Don't suppose you live in Gloucester 😅
There’s people on eBay who will do them, or a quick Google will bring up someone near you
Many thanks. Great help.
Can you turn the car on and run it without the cluster being plugged in? I can leave my cluster with someone to repair it, I don’t trust myself to solder. But it could be out of the car for a couple of days. But I’ve got a full tank of fuel and my phone has a GPS app and I only have to make a couple of short journeys so speed and fuel aren’t a problem. The oil and column is good so I’m not fussed about that either. Just wondering if it will all work.
it might run for a short while but i wouldn’t trust it, the car will keep performing random checks to make sure the immobiliser is still there and functioning and if not shut off- that’s why the cluster fault happens and peoples cars cut out. Also you’ve got the issue of if you accidentally stall that’s it game over, and you could gurantee you’ve driven for years and haven’t stalled since. you had the car and got used to the clutch, and. now you can’t restart it be the moment. you stall again.
Hey mate, did you use any flux on this before soldering the lead into the circuit board?
no as i used flux cored solder. You could add extra if you really wanted but it’s not needed if your using flux cored solder
@@KylesCarsYT thanks for your speedy response Kyle, I actually bought premium pumbling solder wire that contains led. Yet to try it as I can't take out the cluster due to worn out screws...
Too many comments but nobody post a picture of bad IE with problem on it some lights or something like that, what problems you have, thanks and best regards
Hi mate, everything has worked after the re soldering, but the little green dashboard display was flikerrin a bit then completely went off??any ideas why?thanks,much appreciated
check it’s connected correctly to the main board. They’re only a handful of pins in a row touching against contacts on the board, easily to get them aligned off and this happens
@@KylesCarsYT ok, will do, thought I might done something wrong while soldering? Is it worth over checking the soldered parts again?Thanks
Unplugged it and back 3 times ,still same..hmm..It has solved the main issu though
Hi Kyle
I noticed the engine management light didn’t light up when you switched the car on
Neither does mine
Is this normal in this model
I have moT start of January
Think rico
if it’s diesel pre2009 eml isn’t tested so you’ll be fine. If it’s petrol it has to come on then go off once started, but on diesels it doesn’t matter pre 2009 models
It’s petrol 2006
Can I link it into another bulb ie oil light or abs , I think previous owner has done some kind of delete , car is running 100 percent, it’s just a runner round
@@bayleaf2366 hi sorry late reply;
It’s an awkward thing as it’s an LED so you’d have to bridge our connections on the clocks, and risk shorting something out and causing more problems.
What’s likely is there be a fault and someone’s put some tape over the light, behind the sheet that has the numbers etc on, i don’t think it can be mapped out, or the led has just blown itself, so would be new cluster or replace the led
I have a mk2 focus, but the speedo dial keeps sticking, sometimes it works but sometimes it will stay on zero or stick on say 30mph when i slow down. Would this be a solder issue?
Turn the needle on which the dial rests all the way in the direction of "0" (stationary) with your fingers very gently. When you sense that there is a force which tells you that you turned it all the way,do not force it anymore,but just slightly mount the dial on that needle so it doesn't touch the number plate,but just a little above so it can freely move,you are done.that works for all the dials.
Have a 2010 kuga, radio goes on off and changes channels etc, I also randomly get p2455 (dpf) come and go.
Is it possible to get dpf errors with dry solders on dash!
No, it’ll only cause communication error faults. P2455 is high voltage in the pressure sensor. So that could be that the dpf is blocked to a point beyond the sensors reading, the pressure sensor hose has broken (common thing) or the wiring has shorted out
Could this cause the battery drain problem found on Smax/focus?
Sometimes yes. The car should go to “sleep” after about 20 mins to an hour after locking; that means that the dashboard should totally turn off apart from the flashing red light of the immobiliser.
Sometimes when the clusters go bad it keeps the car awake which will drain the battery as modules are kept powered up
thanks for video. sent my cluster away for refirb..have a smax 2008. radio doesnt work every know and then stability light comes on .. biggest one is engine malfunction and car goes into limp mode. could cluster cause limp mode ?
possibly, depends what systems it’s disrupting the signal to
@Kyle's Cars nah got cluster back and car is still f**ked
@@Fridzel44 get a code reader on it ELM327 probably something simple
@@KylesCarsYT no codes mate pulling my hair out.
@@Fridzel44 if it’s going in limp mode there’ll always be a code. You need to use the right reader and catch it at the time. No good scanning afterwards you need to be prepared for it and scan it the moment it goes in limp mode.
Ford mondeo 4 ford mondeo do not work all the arrows on the dashboard. Where to look for the reason?
I know this is an old video but my 2006 ford fiesta has encountered a similar immobiliser fault suddenly after sitting off the road for about a month. The weather got frosty as it does this time of year and suddenly wouldn't bypass immobiliser. I'm hoping this is the same problem as it's same time they used leadless solder.
yes it affects them more in the cold weather. I’m in a lot of car groups and the last few weeks this issue gets posted up at least 3 times every day i’m sharing this video like crazy at the moment
@@KylesCarsYT thanks for getting back to me I'll get a look at mine on Friday. Car is up at my mother's currently stranded there. Garage looked at the car and said they didn't know what's up with it.
I notice you didn't mention that Fiesta immobiliser is connected to the cluster. Do you know if it is?
@@hendoiii3487 i believe they are tho not 100% sure
@@KylesCarsYT thanks I'm going to attempt to repair mine over Christmas period. Hopefully I can get it back to life and get mot done 🤣
Is it possible to just buy a new cluster? I am bad at soldering and can't afford to lose my car for the duration of 3rd party repair. Or is there security codes or something like that?
you can replace the cluster, HOWEVER it will need
programming to the car and to your keys as it forms the immobiliser. You’ll also need two keys so if you or a previous owner has lost the spare at some point in the cars life you cannot do it without having a new key made up ready to be programmed either, and it can’t be a clone it must be a new key ready for programming
I've reflowed the connector, micro controller and can transceiver IC's. However I still have no MM CAN. any ideas?
not massively clues up on the CANBUS networks, but if you’ve got comms with the one but not the other i’d be inclined to say fault is elsewhere with another module or wiring creating a short or open circuit on the MS CAN line
@@KylesCarsYT it's on my old cluster. New one works so fault seems isolated to the old ipc. Sometimes works when heats up so I though I'd reflow connections and ic's but no luck
@@joeclarke1222 sometimes they don’t always work and there’s other damage on the board than just solder joints.
Actually the one i based this video off didn’t work in the end, it lasted another 2 weeks tho, i ended up replacing it, but lots of others i’ve repaired have work. Sometimes you just get unlucky and the cluster is just unrepairable, i probably should have mentioned that in the video, and a few years on i watch back and see ways i could’ve simplified and explained things better, but it only started showing errors again after i posted the video and unfortunately on UA-cam once it’s posted I can’t edit it without reposting, and with all the views this one’s got it’s not viable to repost, i will probably make an updated video when I get chance and leave both intact.
nice video helped alot could you tell me what reader you use to get the fault codes and software thanks
modified elm327 cable, and FORScan.
You can get the cable from Tunnel Rat tunnelrat-electronics.fwscart.com/USB_Modified_with_switch_ELM327/p4541936_17045457.aspx
When you say re flowing you mean just add little more solder to all of them right? don’t have to remove the solder that’s already there then add more? Sorry if stupid question! Love your work!
no not a stupid question at all!
Yes that’s right, your just “flowing” fresh solder into the joint to “reflow” it. The biggest problem with the old joints is that it was done using lead-free solder which is very brittle and breaks down overtime causing it to break, so you melt and add in fresh solder to fix the broken joint
Thanks for quick reply ! And I could use lead free solder if don’t have leaded? I know you said want leaded just seeing if can be used ?? Thanks again man!
@@datwinz3927 yeah you can use lead free, but leaded is better
@@KylesCarsYT you the man gonna give it a go tomorrow wish me luck! 🙏
Removal of needles - get 2 x teaspoons, place one either side of pivot point just under it, lever up...
i did that before but i have broken a needle before using that method and found this way the easiest and less likely chance of damage
Wtf, their was no amount of pulling pushing or anythi g else to get the clocks out of the dashboard, I had to give up before I broke the stupid thing in half, I located the clips alont the top an slid a shim in to open them but there was still no way I was getting those clocks out
Hi dude I've got a question would u mind trying to answer it 👍🏼
I've got 57 plate cmax btw lol
@@benlightfoot9360 sure go ahead, i know the cmaxes inside out lmao
Thanks for the reply they been sent off to be repaired now 🤣🤣hope to get them back tomorrow 🙏
Why your cluster not showing PRND?
it’s a manual
I am still having the calibration issues, car is Idle but it still showing 5Km speed, Also the RPM gauge is more than it required
take the front plastic off, turn igniton on and twist both the needles round till they stop, then use a bit more force to pull them back round to 0
Hi
Mine Focus 2009. cluster died in the curve on highway at 130 km/h switching off my SERVO steering wheel and gas pedal become unresponsive!
If I live in normal country I would sue Ford for endangering my life !!!
How stupid is to make servo pump dependent from CAN signals from Cluster ? JEEEEEZZZZ !!!
i wouldn’t exactly go as far to blame Ford.
your brake servo will work off the engine, and if your instrument cluster dies, the immobiliser will kick in and engine stops running cutting the vacuum to the servo just like if you switch the key off.
leadfree solder was being pushed to be used in factories as its supposedly better for the heath of workers, but at the time people werent aware of how brittle it’ll become over time and cause a bad connection as it was new to being used.
@@KylesCarsYT I was talking about electro-hydraulic power assist steering system (EHPAS) connected to *CAN communication* that switch off (!!!) with cluster fault bcs those solder joints cracks and at same time *losing 100% gas pedal response!*
Don't tell me that's not really dangerous to happen while driving at 130 km/h ??? What would you do to lose gas and steering while overtaking ???
@@miladinseratlic4565 while yes i agree it can be dangerous, it’s still not exactly fords fault. Ford wouldn’t intentionally build a car that’s to fail and cause a danger, no manufacturer would.
@@KylesCarsYT well it's common problem and I've never heard of any recall for that issue bcs there are too much clusters affected. I don't care who would be responsible either Ford or Visteon as cluster producer but as I described i lost both steering wheel sensitivity and gas pedal response at highway speed.
Engine managment is not working
on mine? Doesn’t matter doesn’t legally need one.
ford club gb
Can hardly understand what you're saying. Stop saying solllllllllder
I'm guessing you're American. Stop saying soda.
Hello Kyle,my ford focus08 is showing engine malfunction and power steering malfunction is this the cluster?
unlikely, cluster faults rarely show those kinds of faults without immobilising their car entirely. most likely be a bad battery or alternator