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Thanks for asking! If it's slamming that's likely because there's no 'cushion' spring in it as you wrote. I would take the cushion spring(the big one is cushion the small is return) from the stock servo you just brought and add it to the superior branded one you are currently running. That should soften the shift by slowing the apply of it. That's what I would try if it were mine... good luck with your wheels 🤙

@@wrenchingwithphil great thank you. Idk I could do that. I would assume just take the spacer out and replace it with the spring.

@@wrenchingwithphil I am going to pull my servo Friday. Replace the spacer with the spring. I shouldn't have to go though measuring the pin and all that should I? I would assume that wouldn't change and should be fine as long as the builder did it correctly.

Awesome to hear and good luck with your build!! 🤙

@@wrenchingwithphil i have one question, so the first gear that has 2 clutches is the 4th gear and the last one in the assembly is the reverse gear, so where is the first and second and third gear?

@@bilalkaiss5146 There is more to an automatic transmission. Gears are combinations... here's a link to start you learning auto.howstuffworks.com/automatic-transmission.htm 👍

Thanks for watching! Case prep is video 9 in the series. Good luck with your build 🤙

Thanks for the feedback and the question! In 'my opinion' you have more risk than reward in changing the fluid at this point. I would gather some new clutches/steels and plan to do a refresh to it over winter(assuming u r in a 4 season area lol). This way you can clean out the junk from all the small orifices and replace the wear items b4 it fries and maybe takes out some other parts when it does... and no need to rush the work to get back on road asap. In summary, 'I' would roll the dice and let it be but plan a refresh. Good luck whatever direction you take!! 🤙

Thanks for asking. Since you're not installing it back into a factory 87 Monte most all (me included) would only use the 4th gear switch(if you're doing a lockup tranny like I am here) which I'm assuming your painless kit also includes. Yeah probably temp switch but hard to tell without photo... I would leave it disconnected but that's just me lol

@@wrenchingwithphil 😆 Thanks. I finally verified it's just a temperature switch in this particular trans. I've got it all back together and the Painless vacuum switch mounted to the firewall, and brake pedal switch wired. Hope it all works so I can stop running at 3200+ RPM at 65mph. 😳

Sure, it's long discontinued but was made by K-D Tools and called the GM lo-reverse clutch remover installer tool #2843

Cores are getting harder and harder to find. Try getting an old servo assembly on ebay. I see a couple there for $37+... kinda expensive for just needing a cushion spring but at least you'll have a spare servo pin 🤷‍♂ And yup I'll get another vid out soon and it will be governor modding 🤙

Thanks for watching! There are many ways to do things and I suppose many folks have methods that work for them. In this vid I showed what works for me. It's the way I do it and simply what works for me. So, it's what I do lol. I don't know what performance you're building for but I would expect 85 thou is fine as long as it feels ok when turning output shaft with the vice grips like I showed. I doubt the local aamco or tranny shop back in the day even bothered to test clearance with any gauging back in the day... probably just by feel lol Good luck with your build! 🤙

Thanks for watching 🤙

Thanks for watching and good luck with your build of the 3 speed predecessor!

Thanks for watching! Yeah I kinda figured anyone who was going to go find a stronger spring was probably getting it from within a shift kit that they were using anyway but yeah that's a valid point! Thanks for pointing that out🤙😎

Thanks for asking. They change their contents semi-often. I'm using an older version of their pro street master rebuild kit in this video series... web.archive.org/web/20210121011155/www.ckperformance.com/List/2004R/2004R-Rebuild-Kits That's why I mentioned not to follow my specific drilling of holes in the seperator plate as it's based on that specific kit. You can see me installing the valve springs/etc for it in video 4. I see they currently have 2 shift kits as you mentioned. If you have the extra $80 you might consider to get the one with the servo as it's more of a matched set and an aftermarket servo is likely gonna cost you closer to 150 anyway... Just for reference, I bought the kit myself and I get no thanks/commission/sponsorship/etc from them or anyone else so I have no skin in the game. I'm just using their stuff in this video series. Purely my opinion and YMMV 🤙😎 Good luck with your build!

Thanks for asking! If I understand your question you mean instead of 1-3 thou the measurement is larger... like 5 thou(for example)? In that case, if we milled 'the hole' in the center where I was showing to sand with the 400 grit the measurement would be even bigger which would be a bad thing. I'm guessing that's not what you mean.... We should mill the entire plate cover surface 'except that hole' to make it thinner and tighten the gap. Ideally do both sides(for example 1thou each side if you were chopping 2 thou total) to ensure they are flat and mate together better. So, yes a machine shop should be able to do that... assuming they are actually flat faces. Good luck with your build! 🤙🏎

hahaha... we'll get there 'eventually' for sure 😎🤙

Thanks for continuing to follow along! 👍

Thanks for watching and nice tip!

Thanks for watching!!

Thanks for watching! Sometimes the metal rings hold on tight lol... just stick something in between them to act as a pry bar and pry them apart. Of course, don't use something sharp and scratch the center support. For example, lotsa tape on end of flat tip screwdriver should work. I assume you tried spinning the center support while attempting to pull it out already... Good luck with ur build! 🤙😎

lol... I don't recall as it's been a while but I would guess that was 'take 2 or 3 or..' Obviously don't run without a filter...🤙

Thanks for watching!! If you point me to a specific time in whichever video I can give you proper nomenclature for the part but generally I'm likely referring to replacing a thrust washer with a bearing. I usually just buy online from them and other vendors but Chris Konkanos(some Greek last name I 99.99% got wrong lol) is CK. Good luck with your build 👍

@@wrenchingwithphil Hi Phil, Thanks for the response. I was watching the 22 video series you did on the 2004R. I will give CK a call and talk to Chris. Again thanks and for the great videos.

Thanks for watching and glad to hear the vids are helping ur build! I 'assume' you're using the TransGo HD2 reprogramming kit and if so then I don't believe you do need to remove those seals as you've already created the leak. Good idea to use the billet forward drum for dual feeding... if not it will be a saaaaaaad day when you 'step on the gogo pedal' 😱🏎 Good luck with your build!

I spoke to Phil a while back and he does plan to include the governor.

Thanks for watching and asking! Yup, absolutely!! vid 24 and maybe 25 too lol. We'll look at minimum 3 different types from low to high perf and some mods to play with

Thanks for watching and the feedback! Good luck with your build 👍

Thanks for asking!! Currently editing 🤙

Thanks for watching and good luck with your build!!

Thanks for watching and sure tell the wife I made u do it lol! As long as you're not planning to do brake stands or ultra hard launches you'll be fine with mostly non-billet stuff. I always recommend a billet forward drum as in stock form it's a ticking time bomb regardless of power. Get a new hardened sun shell as well since they're cheap... Good luck with your build!

Thank you!! I’m be watching this series a few times im sure as I dig in to the trans

Thanks for asking and watching since the early days of the project!! We'll mount the valve body next and drill the separator plate with some other minor things. Slowly filming but definitely in process 👍

Thanks for watching and the feedback! 🤙

Thanks for watching and Absolutely! It's a run of the mill 200-4r non high performance one as you wrote and will be fine for your run of the mill 305 motor daily driver. Being on the highway in overdrive is likely the biggest benefit for you... rebuild it as stock with a shift kit and no need for most all the mods I show as they're likely overkill for your needs. Good luck with your build!

AWESOME, thanks for watching and glad they helped your project!

Thanks for watching! j-28542... search ebay. I don't see one listed currently but they come up quite often.

sure, super important on the 200-4r to get that setting right!

Thanks for watching! Not sure what you wrote but hopefully you'll build a 200-4r soon as well and help keep them behind an engine somewhere a bit longer

Thanks for watching! Well think back to the 80/90's when these things were new and being repaired by local transmission shops all over the country. I highllllllllllly doubt most shops were so careful and measured every clearance/etc as we're doing here. Yet the transmission went back in and the car drove away. My point being that we're going above and beyond what many(not all) rebuilders would have done 'back in the day'. Follow along and try it. It's the best feeling when it works and you can tell your car buds you did it yourself lol. In the worst case it doesn't work and you bring it to the transmission shop like you thought about doing anyway. Nothing lost... Good luck!!

Thanks for watching! Yeah, those plastic washers get brittle over time... the brown one I showed doesn't seem to have much life left either lol Good luck with your build😎

Absolutely! They're made by Koyo and come as a complete set of 6 for the 2004r. Part number is 54201b Cobra transmissions has them here: cobratransmission.com/bearing-kit-gm-200-4r-2014-1 ****Note that the one I'm using on the top of the center support here instead of the washer can't just be put there. You need to machine a groove into the center support for the bearing to sit into. Mine was pre-machined as part of the roller kit I bought from ckperformance

Thanks for watching!! I generally turn it with just a little effort to find the binding point. I'm guessing if I put all my might into it I would still be able to turn it though. So maybe 10 or 15 ft/lb if I had to guess?? Good luck with your build!

Awesome, thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! Sorry but I'm not sure as I don't have one. Probably best to call their office and ask directly. Good luck with your build!

Thanks for watching! Nope, next up is front end play checking and fine tuning it to get it right.

Thanks for watching and the feedback! Yeah that's my favorite servo... too bad they stopped making them

sorry, took a summer break lol. Time to close the pool now so I'll get back to posting soon 👍

sorry, took a summer break lol but yes absolutely. Time to close the pool now so I'll get back to posting soon 👍

Thanks for watching! sorry, took a summer break from building/filming lol. Time to close the pool now so I'll get back to posting soon... 👍