The other day i decided to do this the same way you did, as this seems stronger than squashed pipe and mounts cleaner. A minute on the chop saw and it was good to go. It didnt make a massive difference in ride quality, but it does feel stiffer. The body roll doesnt feel as exagerated when im fast into a turn, and has made the slight highway vibration i have basically non existant. For the amount of time it takes to make it for such little cost i think its worth it. Mostly ready for the skid plates I get to mount to it now though.
@@dospathsgarage2854 do you know anything about the NRC9446 LR springs? When I look them up it says their driver side front springs, these can be used to lift the back? Just a bit confused . Thanks for the quick replies !
@@victorperez5237 9446; 9447; 9448; 9449 coils vary in either length and/or stiffness. Manufacturers will specify them as coils for use in the front of certain Land Dover defenders. Oddly enough, they have different stiffness levels for left and right sides for whatever reason. A few years ago somebody figured out those coils fit the back suspension of r50s and are cheaper than the rear lift coils that were already on the market at that time. As for 9446, I’m not all that familiar with with length or stiffness but I remember reading that it’s a candidate that fits the back of the r50. I am familiar with 9447 and 9449 coils though. I’m running 9449s on my lifted r50 on the channel. 9447s should give the same lift but be a bit softer than the 9449s
@@dospathsgarage2854 know the lift the different ones give by chance? and if yours settled a bit lower after a while? it would really help. Thanks again !
@@victorperez5237 afraid not. I think much of the info about spring rate and height is spread around on different threads on NPORA. But yeah, the 9449 coils have settled in the 1.5 years I’ve had them. I haven’t measured but I’m going to guess about an inch. Back end still sits noticeably higher than the front (AC coils from 4x4parts.com)
It serves no purpose the stress is a down motion!The only AP isrear axel front edge to frame ,the front c/arm bushings handle the stress if they are Moog OEM otherwise you are wasting your time,why do they advance the camber on the passenger wheels @ Nascar hum!!
If any put a Damper Shock there a bar will transfer stress to interior C/A bushings causing premature wear!Take it from ole school racing it's better to absorb than to stiffen up always,,,,it preforms better! old school Tennessee where moonshiners invented high performance setups 👍👍
Hi Ray, the missing link modification shown certainly isn’t a required for offroad or highway use. It is required to support a middle or rear skid plate though. From my reading the benefits claimed about missing link are supposedly a more solid feel on the road. Many of those who do a subframe drop lift recommend this modification to prevent noises and to gain structural rigidity. There has been a instance where a subframe (subframe drop lift) failed on the road. This in theory should reduce the chances of that. Anecdotally, I didn’t notice any better road manners on road after the mod and at the moment, there is no subframe drop lift on the vehicle. However this particular part shown, does become a mounting point for a skidplate as shown in a later video on this channel.
Awesome explanation! Simple and effective
The other day i decided to do this the same way you did, as this seems stronger than squashed pipe and mounts cleaner. A minute on the chop saw and it was good to go. It didnt make a massive difference in ride quality, but it does feel stiffer. The body roll doesnt feel as exagerated when im fast into a turn, and has made the slight highway vibration i have basically non existant. For the amount of time it takes to make it for such little cost i think its worth it. Mostly ready for the skid plates I get to mount to it now though.
Sweet, thanks. Was going to use electrical conduit but this is way better. Found it on ebay, cost $25.
Thank you brother
Hi, do you need to jack it up to support the subframe?
Because I can get under mine pretty easy as is, cheers.
Nope! No Jack's needed
This is the missing link people talk about needing when you lift a r50?
Yes. This is one of many diy styles folks have made or bought
@@dospathsgarage2854 do you know anything about the NRC9446 LR springs? When I look them up it says their driver side front springs, these can be used to lift the back? Just a bit confused . Thanks for the quick replies !
@@victorperez5237 9446; 9447; 9448; 9449 coils vary in either length and/or stiffness. Manufacturers will specify them as coils for use in the front of certain Land Dover defenders. Oddly enough, they have different stiffness levels for left and right sides for whatever reason. A few years ago somebody figured out those coils fit the back suspension of r50s and are cheaper than the rear lift coils that were already on the market at that time. As for 9446, I’m not all that familiar with with length or stiffness but I remember reading that it’s a candidate that fits the back of the r50. I am familiar with 9447 and 9449 coils though. I’m running 9449s on my lifted r50 on the channel. 9447s should give the same lift but be a bit softer than the 9449s
@@dospathsgarage2854 know the lift the different ones give by chance? and if yours settled a bit lower after a while? it would really help. Thanks again !
@@victorperez5237 afraid not. I think much of the info about spring rate and height is spread around on different threads on NPORA. But yeah, the 9449 coils have settled in the 1.5 years I’ve had them. I haven’t measured but I’m going to guess about an inch. Back end still sits noticeably higher than the front (AC coils from 4x4parts.com)
Do you remember the torque spec on those bolts?
87-108 ft lbs
@@dospathsgarage2854 awesome, thanks! I'm going to hit up my local metal scrap yard and see if I can't make myself one.
It serves no purpose the stress is a down motion!The only AP isrear axel front edge to frame ,the front c/arm bushings handle the stress if they are Moog OEM otherwise you are wasting your time,why do they advance the camber on the passenger wheels @ Nascar hum!!
If any put a Damper Shock there a bar will transfer stress to interior C/A bushings causing premature wear!Take it from ole school racing it's better to absorb than to stiffen up always,,,,it preforms better! old school Tennessee where moonshiners invented high performance setups 👍👍
Hi Ray, the missing link modification shown certainly isn’t a required for offroad or highway use. It is required to support a middle or rear skid plate though. From my reading the benefits claimed about missing link are supposedly a more solid feel on the road. Many of those who do a subframe drop lift recommend this modification to prevent noises and to gain structural rigidity. There has been a instance where a subframe (subframe drop lift) failed on the road. This in theory should reduce the chances of that. Anecdotally, I didn’t notice any better road manners on road after the mod and at the moment, there is no subframe drop lift on the vehicle. However this particular part shown, does become a mounting point for a skidplate as shown in a later video on this channel.
This is not a Trac bar ,,,,,,jeep🥴