Відео

thanks for sharing.

tháo mặt chỉ số ra va tăng dây cót lò xo lên 3-4 vòng là xong .cảm ơn

I use graphite with water on a piece of special glass to flattening my Arkansas honing stone these can take hours to flatten, great exercise,😅 I don`t know if aluminum oxide is harder, but the graphite does break down as its being used ,

Nice piece of kit. no computers to go wrong loll,this is why these things last years, Iv just picked my self a Scripta possibly Scripta s.a , it may be a 1-1no adjusting to it don`t know nothing about them, it has some missing parts, like the thing that holds the letters,and possibly the bottom frame stand , but only paid under 50.00 but need to make or try to find spares, Cant find any info really struggling to get any information,

No better way to waste your time! 😉👍

Have the same drill press in floor standing version, just started the restoration process. Would be great to see the following videos! Or if you have any tips on removing/ replacing/ sourcing the bearings. Cheers

Видео о том как делать не надо !

It is gorgeous I agree.For me,it is of an accuracy and grade that is suitable for anything I would produce.The dings and imperfections are proof of a productive life over the last 78 years.Over time, it'll just get more accurate.

Nice video. Thank you. That surface plate is going to take care of you for years. Kudos.

Great video.. Just bought one myself..and trying to work with it, a long lost hobby from the 90's picking up again..very helpfull, maybe I post more on this model TXL ...in Netherlands there are a lot for sale, second hand..

I too thought mine was original, but found out otherwise soon after. Very much like yours except the height screw is M4 (brass) . Mine are a bit more substantial than yours in proportion, but only needed 1 slit on a far looser fitting centre-post. The main reason for this is that the slit is cut from the centre outwards, allowing the clamping to happen with far less force required. Cheers from a Sandgroper ;-)

Tôi cần mua máy này

What a fine project! Any evidence whether the broken casting was from over-loading or being dropped?

Good vise alright , very well made, good watch also, love tool restoration videos👌🏼

You're right that there are not a lot of videos on these old machines. I'm currently trying to figure out how to change the scribe tool from a plexi to a diamond tip, and mine seems stuck. Any suggestions?

Thanks for posting this vid. Very helpful in Sept 2022.

Saw one for $200 today & this shows me just how much is missing. It’s got the Bed,Chuck,headstock & yeah that’s it. Think I’ll pass

🤣 [̲̅p][̲̅r][̲̅o][̲̅m][̲̅o][̲̅s][̲̅m]

Sir do you know anyone who could help with my S.A.Les Innovations Mecaniques type 4 lathe?

Hello, I’ve come across one for sale but I don’t have the model only a picture and I’d like to know if I’b be able to engrave knives with it or if it is just for doors identifying plates. It would help me a lot because I was looking for one for quite some time. Thanks

Thanks, nice video, great advice. Nice lathe ! Look after it.

Very, very good machine can run for years b4 it develops petty faults that can be handle by local engineers

Hi! I have the same Scripta GX 500! Two questions: have you found a manual for it (PDF or otherwise)? On the spindle head, at the bottom, I seem to be missing the part you referred to as sacrificial. What's is this part, and is there a collet at the bottom of yours, just before the cutter head protrudes? Mine is slightly loose leading to the cutter having some play, and of course producing some pretty poor engravings. I heard deckel parts can work in these machines, but I'm not sure.

Customized Beautyfull ❤️

Nice video mate!

25 or so years ago I held taps (From M3 all the up to M12, sorry metric only here)in drill chuck of Bridgeport along with generous amount of tapping paste to tap the holes with one hand in direction switch (whether it is blind hole or thru did not matter) never broke one. Do they still use the same technique???

Excellent workmanship, you have preserved the magic, in the original vice.

"........ And don't forget to tune in next week, for another episode of PIMP MY VICE !". :D Personally, I'm not too sure about the machine turned finish on the tongue (a bit too "Bling bling" for my little home workshop), but each to their own. And as you needed to re-drill the bolt holes for the jaws anyway, I'd probably have just forgone the separate quick change holders and fitted pins and a magnet to each jaw, then have the pins locate on drilled holes in the vice's castings, which could be threaded for conventional style jaws at a later date if ever needed. That all said, I'm blown away with how thorough a refurb job you did. No corners cut or shortcuts taken. Most people these days seem to think "Renovated" means car body filler in any dings, dents and cracks, rub it down and hide any remaining scars with a thick coat of hammer effect paint. It's a refreshing change to see a humble workshop tool get renovated on UA-cam to a standard where it's future lifespan is most likely going to exceed its previous years of use.

Center drill blunter than a hammer? OMG I almost spit out my morning coffee.

Nice job. I like the jeweling effect. The SP stands for Standard Pattern and there is a HP for Heavy Pattern and an LP which is a Light Pattern. Your vice is cast iron as all the steel vices had steel cast on them. To check that just weigh it, if it’s cast it should weigh 56lb / 25.4kg and if it’s steel it should weigh 49lb / 22.2kg. Keep up the great work. Cheers Stuart.

That's a fantastic job and the colour is spot on thanks for sharing your time and skill and remember stay safe and make more great videos thanks again 🍺🍺👍👍🇬🇧

Outstanding work!

👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏

G’day bud, what happened, no video for two years? Nice save on that little Carter, it was a lot of work but you enjoyed doing it didn’t you. I like the finish you put on it. Do you know much about it as I collect and restore Australian made tools so I may be able to give you some info if you want it. I’m figuring your up in Queensland as it’s to bloody cold down here to be in short right now. Cheers Stuart, Canberra 🥶🥶🥶

Great restoration mate!

Excellent job my man!

cool project and great job buddy , I liked it 👍the right tool for the workshop 👍

mint

How did you free up the stylus, mine wont free up. Any help would be appreciated.

Hello my friend, you are doing great work. I would be glad if you examine my youtube channel too.😊

Thanks for posting this few years back! We got one of these in our shop, came from a retired gold smith's shop and we couldn't figure out how it works. Thanks again!

I made nine similar units out of mystery metal for my 9x20 lathe. I made the large hole a fairly "stiff" slip fit and only used one slit. When I cut the slit, I started by using a slitting saw but the slit of one one collapsed on the blade, destroying it. I used a hacksaw to finish the remaining units. For any 9x20 lathe owners reading, I replaced the original tool post base with the Pitkin donut, highly recommended. drive.google.com/file/d/1b-1v8sZKtDkmfDDO8q_7Y6Wbym-itpgB/view?usp=drivesdk drive.google.com/file/d/1b5lvEmbKcAGtVi-ROVvamSjsI7V_qqrm/view?usp=drivesdk drive.google.com/file/d/1b79hLkuLeQM58Zo071tOwc236uD33GY9/view?usp=drivesdk

Emco unimat db200. I have some harbor freight stuff I’ve got for it. I want get qctp. I do have milling post to. It all like new wasn’t used very much.

As one commenter said: Why use ancient technology? It's about nostalgia and the beauty of manual machines. It's not about mass production. Why have a restored Ford Model T that reaches 25mph for a weekend drive when you can drive a Hyundai at 75 mph? I think you get my point.

Ok so you won't a quick clang tool post . well hear what i did & I suggest you think of This , so hear I go This is what I did . when you think of it . we have a tool redy made Strong & solid, so how do we convert that into a quick Change tool post. Well i found some tool holder's at a car boot, , so I followed that paten. So in your case I see you have an small aloes paten post. so let me say you have half the Quick Kit you need. to build your { New Tool post. using your four way post }, So how ? Well first remove the present post tool holding pins with new replacement grub screws . Then contemplate. you adores. stile post . & consider how to ached the dovetail within the steel your about to fit within the old tool post & how to fasten to , the new post attachment to be handed, consider cutting a dovetail that can be securer in two way one by grub screws in to the new block you are about to make, which allows the grub scows to enter the block treads & tighten down solidly . now consider the centre of the new block with it new Dovetail mild within it to tack the tool careers you already have, you are at this point 78 % of the way complete. the new adjustment will fit on the new block yet to be determined the plunger that grips the dovetail will be cam meconium operated within the centre jack bolt fastenings , of the original tool holding, pins , i personal like the sold wag Tip that travel up a down within a round drill hole pulling up or pushing down against the plunger wag, that titans the dovetail's I have suggested an idea or tow ., keeping the build deliberately vague. half the fun is figuring out how to Complete the build in you case you have the holder's the lar for way steel base. mine works well no chatter because the grub screws go in to the new block holding it farm & the plunger grip's the dovetail wag tightly pushing the the new tool block you have solidly. i hop you ues the system I haven filmed my work arrow I hope you do . the cost was not a lot , just a peas of steel to develop the dovetail the posh wag was a simple plunger tip with a :- O 'ring to hold it in place. Les , England UK PS . :- The thing is you get to keep tow. sides for sliming up tooling you mat Need to. The peace can be mad as one cut out to fit both sides of the for way tool post in steel i used a Donkey saw to removal the most I had no mill. what I did work well "NO" I never bothered with spending on a quick change tolling & had six of the boot sale , & the two it I want to pack them , never needed them versatile by gum yes . I sometimes ues boring bars , in the turret section , the best of both world's,

Enjoyed the video. A bit late in the day now, but had you drilled just small holes where your slots end then you would have removed the possible crack starter.

by now it is very likely that someone else pointed this out already but here i go, you need to drill small holes at the ... (sorry english is not my native language, bare with me)... base of those cuts. that will prevent (or at least postpone) stress fractures. im sure there is a formula for the size of the holes but you'd probly find that out on your own. edit: another thing, you may want to make the cut for the tools on some other face of the toolpost that doesnt have any relief cuts/slits. that face changes shape when you tighten it and it is not that consistent.

Very good design. Try and make the lock bolts 2-Allen head bolts to received canterbore on the tool post. Very interesting design

How does it work. You have not met complete video

I'm having trouble taking the clutch handle off. Can you give me any pointers cheers