Nice job. I like the jeweling effect. The SP stands for Standard Pattern and there is a HP for Heavy Pattern and an LP which is a Light Pattern. Your vice is cast iron as all the steel vices had steel cast on them. To check that just weigh it, if it’s cast it should weigh 56lb / 25.4kg and if it’s steel it should weigh 49lb / 22.2kg. Keep up the great work. Cheers Stuart.
I did wonder if it really was steel when I saw the cast iron style powdery chips when he was drilling it. I've got an old "Woden 190/7a" cast steel quick release vices that I got cheap. It looked a real rusty mess when I saw it on eBay, so no one thought it was worth bidding on, but as I looked through the pictures I noticed the cast in "STEEL" lettering on the side. I knew that meant I could weld up and grind any dings in it, so I put in a ridiculously low offer (Probably even below scrap value back then) and for some reason the seller accepted it !!! When I got it home it went straight into a bucket of degreaser for a week, then after that another week swimming in rust remover. Once out of that I found it didn't actually need much work. I opted to grind, file and stone the pitting out of the tongue, then build up the corresponding pads in the main body with weld. It only took a few hours of actual hands on work. Once I'd finished cleaning it all up I thought it actually looked pretty nice in bare wire brushed metal, so rather than paint it, I just periodically cover it in oil, leave it to soak in, and wipe it down. If I ever see rust spots appearing, they get a few swipes with a wire brush, then oiling....... So much easier than repainting chips too. :D It's a brilliant tool, and it's the first vice out of all the ones I've salvaged and restored over the years where I haven't found something else within a few months that I've thought would be a worth while upgrade.
@@Reman1975 Hi Reman, those old Woden vices are worth saving. My biggest decision when doing a resto is how far to go. I’ve just finished an unusual woodwork clamp that was originally green but once it was cleaned up I was really tempted to leave it bare metal but I also wanted to show how it would have looked when new. I’m more of a ‘nice and shiny’ type of restorer unless it’s something rare or expensive. I see some people’s work really cop a flogging from the comments and it’s usually because of sloppy work but more commonly because of their colour choices but I take the view that it’s their item so they can do whatever they want with it and a coat of paint is easy to change. I’ll have the green clamp posted on my channel in a few days. Nice That was a nice save on your Dawn. Cheers Stuart.
"........ And don't forget to tune in next week, for another episode of PIMP MY VICE !". :D Personally, I'm not too sure about the machine turned finish on the tongue (a bit too "Bling bling" for my little home workshop), but each to their own. And as you needed to re-drill the bolt holes for the jaws anyway, I'd probably have just forgone the separate quick change holders and fitted pins and a magnet to each jaw, then have the pins locate on drilled holes in the vice's castings, which could be threaded for conventional style jaws at a later date if ever needed. That all said, I'm blown away with how thorough a refurb job you did. No corners cut or shortcuts taken. Most people these days seem to think "Renovated" means car body filler in any dings, dents and cracks, rub it down and hide any remaining scars with a thick coat of hammer effect paint. It's a refreshing change to see a humble workshop tool get renovated on UA-cam to a standard where it's future lifespan is most likely going to exceed its previous years of use.
Thank you very much, that pattern on the tongue is in all weapon smith trick, mostly used on bolt actions. Has no affect on the weapon other than a diamond finish
@@thelittleshopaustralia4733 Back in the day I knew it as Machine/engine turning, or "Fish scaling", and my biggest memory of it was that it's a ridiculously time consuming, boring, and laborious task, and if you made any ruddy mistake you usually had to start from scratch. We used to setup a jig on the radial arm drill, and one of us would spend hours just scuffing little overlapping circles into sheets of alloy using these abrasive hard rubber bobbin things. Pretty sure it's all done by CNC now, but not back when I trained as an engineer. :( I'm not 100% sure what you've done is the same type of process I used to get lumbered into doing (The light's doing some trippy things with it in your video), but the effect looks about the same.
@@Reman1975 You are not wrong, didn't want to stuff up one. I used a milling machine and abrasive paste, counting the seconds for each circle. The surface was phosphated so needed to scrub that away each time. Next chance I get will be some scraping practice. Now that (as you are probably aware) is boring work:)
@@thelittleshopaustralia4733 When it comes to scraping in a machine, I've only done it 1/2 a time. :) I was starting to get serious on the refurb of one on my Victorian hobby lathes, and decided to scrape everything in. I did the saddles base, then the cross slide, then........... I couldn't face doing anymore scraping on it ! Probably didn't help that it was early winter in my little unheated home workshop at the time, but we've had 2 summers since then, and I still haven't revisited the task, so that may be a telling fact. :) I found scraping for flatness and parallelism to be a horrendous, time consuming, repetitive, strenuous, boring, stressful, mind numbing, and unrewarding task, and to be honest, that hobby lathes bed could do with being ground back closer to flat anyway, so it's not even like it was worth all the effort.
Excellent workmanship, you have preserved the magic, in the original vice.
Nice video mate!
Thank you mate
Nice job. I like the jeweling effect. The SP stands for Standard Pattern and there is a HP for Heavy Pattern and an LP which is a Light Pattern.
Your vice is cast iron as all the steel vices had steel cast on them. To check that just weigh it, if it’s cast it should weigh 56lb / 25.4kg and if it’s steel it should weigh 49lb / 22.2kg. Keep up the great work. Cheers Stuart.
I did wonder if it really was steel when I saw the cast iron style powdery chips when he was drilling it.
I've got an old "Woden 190/7a" cast steel quick release vices that I got cheap. It looked a real rusty mess when I saw it on eBay, so no one thought it was worth bidding on, but as I looked through the pictures I noticed the cast in "STEEL" lettering on the side. I knew that meant I could weld up and grind any dings in it, so I put in a ridiculously low offer (Probably even below scrap value back then) and for some reason the seller accepted it !!!
When I got it home it went straight into a bucket of degreaser for a week, then after that another week swimming in rust remover. Once out of that I found it didn't actually need much work. I opted to grind, file and stone the pitting out of the tongue, then build up the corresponding pads in the main body with weld. It only took a few hours of actual hands on work. Once I'd finished cleaning it all up I thought it actually looked pretty nice in bare wire brushed metal, so rather than paint it, I just periodically cover it in oil, leave it to soak in, and wipe it down. If I ever see rust spots appearing, they get a few swipes with a wire brush, then oiling....... So much easier than repainting chips too. :D
It's a brilliant tool, and it's the first vice out of all the ones I've salvaged and restored over the years where I haven't found something else within a few months that I've thought would be a worth while upgrade.
@@Reman1975 Hi Reman, those old Woden vices are worth saving. My biggest decision when doing a resto is how far to go. I’ve just finished an unusual woodwork clamp that was originally green but once it was cleaned up I was really tempted to leave it bare metal but I also wanted to show how it would have looked when new. I’m more of a ‘nice and shiny’ type of restorer unless it’s something rare or expensive. I see some people’s work really cop a flogging from the comments and it’s usually because of sloppy work but more commonly because of their colour choices but I take the view that it’s their item so they can do whatever they want with it and a coat of paint is easy to change. I’ll have the green clamp posted on my channel in a few days. Nice That was a nice save on your Dawn. Cheers Stuart.
"........ And don't forget to tune in next week, for another episode of PIMP MY VICE !". :D
Personally, I'm not too sure about the machine turned finish on the tongue (a bit too "Bling bling" for my little home workshop), but each to their own. And as you needed to re-drill the bolt holes for the jaws anyway, I'd probably have just forgone the separate quick change holders and fitted pins and a magnet to each jaw, then have the pins locate on drilled holes in the vice's castings, which could be threaded for conventional style jaws at a later date if ever needed. That all said, I'm blown away with how thorough a refurb job you did. No corners cut or shortcuts taken. Most people these days seem to think "Renovated" means car body filler in any dings, dents and cracks, rub it down and hide any remaining scars with a thick coat of hammer effect paint.
It's a refreshing change to see a humble workshop tool get renovated on UA-cam to a standard where it's future lifespan is most likely going to exceed its previous years of use.
Thank you very much, that pattern on the tongue is in all weapon smith trick, mostly used on bolt actions. Has no affect on the weapon other than a diamond finish
@@thelittleshopaustralia4733 Back in the day I knew it as Machine/engine turning, or "Fish scaling", and my biggest memory of it was that it's a ridiculously time consuming, boring, and laborious task, and if you made any ruddy mistake you usually had to start from scratch. We used to setup a jig on the radial arm drill, and one of us would spend hours just scuffing little overlapping circles into sheets of alloy using these abrasive hard rubber bobbin things. Pretty sure it's all done by CNC now, but not back when I trained as an engineer. :(
I'm not 100% sure what you've done is the same type of process I used to get lumbered into doing (The light's doing some trippy things with it in your video), but the effect looks about the same.
@@Reman1975 You are not wrong, didn't want to stuff up one. I used a milling machine and abrasive paste, counting the seconds for each circle. The surface was phosphated so needed to scrub that away each time. Next chance I get will be some scraping practice. Now that (as you are probably aware) is boring work:)
@@thelittleshopaustralia4733 When it comes to scraping in a machine, I've only done it 1/2 a time. :)
I was starting to get serious on the refurb of one on my Victorian hobby lathes, and decided to scrape everything in. I did the saddles base, then the cross slide, then........... I couldn't face doing anymore scraping on it ! Probably didn't help that it was early winter in my little unheated home workshop at the time, but we've had 2 summers since then, and I still haven't revisited the task, so that may be a telling fact. :)
I found scraping for flatness and parallelism to be a horrendous, time consuming, repetitive, strenuous, boring, stressful, mind numbing, and unrewarding task, and to be honest, that hobby lathes bed could do with being ground back closer to flat anyway, so it's not even like it was worth all the effort.
@@Reman1975 haha, I am sure that story is similar to many others. A task only visited sparingly and hated 100% of the time:)