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I don't have a set of the WinWings to test myself but I find the Crosswind V3 to be 'fine' and the WinWing's appear to be very similar. At the same price I'd probably buy the WinWing's today, because of the look and quality appears *visually* better. But again, I don't have any to test or to compare so YMMV.

I was able to turn the phone on for long enough to get data off of it. After 2 days it didn't work again. I believe the solder is really low quality and as soon as it thermally cycles, it "cracks" again unfortunately.

Hi, This one is from Ali and is the brand Yihua. It's okay, but do note that the temperature readings are all nonsense. I don't think the hotplate or soldering iron get as hot as they say.

You're totally right. The temperature reading is complete nonsense! I didn't realize this at first and that made it really difficult and was the cause for my failure.

Agreed. They're made to fail.

I thought so too. Some folks have also used an old frying pan with a hole drilled in it for the bolt, as another inexpensive option. But I agree, it's a weirdly overpriced item for what it is.

Thanks for the comment! I am a fan of the bambu printers and have an X1C and P1P myself! This shouldn't have any issues printing with the default ASA profile that you would normally use. The STL is just a geometry, so you can adjust number of walls and infill to your preference. I like 50% infill but you can probably get away with a little less with ASA, gyroid seems to work well in most cases. My only suggestion is maybe print a few layers first and pause it to check that your bolt will fit in the hole. Sometimes printer dimensional accuracy can be slightly off, because different materials (even different brands) expand slightly differently. If it doesn't fit scale the whole thing by a small amount so the bolt fits. The head of the bolt should be tight so it doesn't fall out without the gimbal head installed.

Hey thanks for the comment!

Hi thanks for the comment on the video. It's possible that you may get some performance increase doing a shunt mod, but honestly with the 20 series I found that they're running them pretty close to the edge already. I was able to get more power, but the card couldn't take any more voltage. That said, I think this mod would work better in situations where you can use more power, but get away with lower voltages.. so if you have a really good cooling setup, or plan on doing LN2 overclocking it's a definite way to get a boost. Hope this helps!

In my opinion it all depends on how you use your PC, you know? If you're the kind of user that keeps 20 tabs open at all times in chrome, you might start running out of RAM with only 8GB, especially if you're doing other tasks simultaneously. However, if you're more of a 1-tab/task at a time I think 8GB is okay. That said, generally for a desktop PC in 2024 I would recommend 16GB at minimum, preferably 32GB for a multi-tasker/gaming PC because DDR4 is relatively cheap these days.

@@tenminutetech Thanks for answering my question! 👍

It's all about the chainsaw! Very strong in PVE if you can catch them in stagger.

I haven't had any issues one printed out of PLA, although I think it might get a little soft if you're in direct sunlight in a desert. I've also been using this mostly with my RF100-500 which is a bit lighter than your 600/f4. I would definitely consider using the larger skimmer if you can, with weight in mind, but outside of that I'd wager on PLA, ABS, PETG, all working equally well. Hope this answers your question!

@@tenminutetech Perfect, i much appreciate the reply.....i'm new to 3D printing...expecting it to be delivered any day now. :)

@@plinkyplanky9651 Great! Enjoy the printing and feel free to comment with any suggestions you might have for other 3d printed photography gear

Hey thanks for the comment! It works about as well as the original one that can be found online for about $100. So I'll take it. I had some thoughts of modifying it to float so you could wade into the water but haven't worked on that yet... let me know if that's something that's of interest!

Hey thanks for the comment. I haven't really put much SC content up, it didn't seem to get much attention but I'm happy you enjoyed it!

Hi, and thanks for the comment! This one I got from aliexpress and the brand is "yihua", they make soldering irons that are pretty decent and I found it by searing "yihua rework station". It is quite handy, but a little small for motherboards as you can see in the video. ITX maybe mATX might fit though. I would also recommend getting a set of tips for the soldering iron, I prefer a nice big chisel tip and mine didn't come with one. Hope this helps!

@@tenminutetech thank you

Thank you for the comment! Same, I think they were about $100usd, which seemed a bit steep for what it is. I know other photographers who have used an old frying pan and drilled a hole for a bolt, so that's an option if you don't have a printer yet. I've also made them for a couple friends and the parts list is on thingiverse/makerworld if you want to have it made locally!

That makes sense. It's definitely a high risk repair, even if it's successful if there was any other damage not immediately affecting the end result I can also see that it's possible for micro-cracks to develop either in the solder or traces and cause issues under load. Like you said, if you have the right tools, the ability, and care to take those risks then it may be worth it on an expensive for irreplaceable motherboard. Thanks for the comment! This video is a couple years old so I haven't gone back to this idea, but maybe something in the future.

Thanks for the comment. I'm surprised this old video still attracts interest! Replacing damaged pins is certainly something I never thought of. From this I learned that you really just need the right tools to get things done properly. You need a large heated bed for a full motherboard for sure. And patience. I lack patience. Thanks for the comment and have a good day !

Thanks for the comment. Framework said the hinge is "working as intended" and did not offer any support.

Thank you for watching!

Definite maybe. I like the angle of the right to repair and keep the equipment going but they way they're going about things will never hit the main market. It's a cool device but a bit pricey. Agree that the main thing should be battery and ssd, those can keep a laptop going for 10 years.

Not a silly question at all! The intel LGA 1155 socket is the same in every board, that's correct (btw 1155 represents the number of pins). The issue is that you need to solder the new socket to the board, and for that to happen you need to have solder pre-applied to the bottom of the new socket because you can't access it by hand for obvious reasons. If: (1) you have the tools (heated plate and reball mesh specific for 1151 socket) and (2) are super skilled and able to reball it properly, checking the connections, then in theory you could salvage a socket and put it on a new board. Typically it's more work than it's worth though. The alternative for us mere mortals is to just buy a new prepared socket from ali for $3.

Hey thanks for the comment. It's actually just 2 small screws to remove the back cover, then you can feed the cable through and screw it back on. Sorry I didn't think to make a clip of that shot, but I can make a quick YT short or something to cover that better. Thoughts?

It's called "Bambu Handy", by Bambu themselves. It lets you monitor prints and cancel them if there's an issue over the mobile app. Hope this answers your question!

@@tenminutetech thank you

I'd it an app. To download?

@@stevefritter7283 yeah you gotta download it.

@@stevefritter7283 No problem! I'm pretty sure it only works with bambu printers, but it is pretty cool that you can remotely manage some of the basics. They just recently added an option to skip failed items from a multi-item print, and I'm putting together a video on those features soon, so keep an eye out for it!

Hey thanks a lot! I really appreciate it. Please feel free to leave any advice or recommendations of things you'd like to see in other videos.

Hey thanks for the comment. Let me know if there's anything that you would like to see more of or improvement on.

That's an interesting thought. Perhaps that would work as long as you were very careful not to deform the pins in any way! Thanks for the idea!

Haha, it does appear I was incorrect about the side panels. It must be dirt cheap to spin up a whole new plastic process, and cost less than just aluminum material to make this change... Actually maybe they also needed to leave something "premium" for the x1... Because I think for 99% of people they should just get this and not the x1 now!

Because we didn't know at the time how the enclosure would be handled. The P1P chassis is slightly different. In the end they opted for completely new manufacturer of new side panels out of plastic, which has an unknown affect to price, but it was closer to the P1P

There will probably be one at some point, but I don't think it's gonna be anytime soon.

That's what I'm thinking might fit that lower end price

Based on the image I think it's safe to say it's the same 256mm3 volume, but S for steel rods? Might be on to something. Setting at the ~700 price point leaves a nice gap at 300-400 for something similar or downgraded from what we have now as the P1P

It looks like I was WRONG, but that's okay! That's what happens when you speculate. It appears that the total cost of new tooling/process for the plastic panels was less than the material cost of aluminum. Thanks for your comment!

It's available now! I just purchased with the AMS for 949+tax/shipping. Review incoming.. hopefully soon I will get around to my X1 (1-year later) review!

Same! I heard tomorrow morning for possible info.

P1P is killing the K1

I think BL is in a really good position to keep doing the "right" thing.. as long as they don't list the P1S for an out of touch like price $1000, I think they'll continue to see great success. With the AMS? My bet is $950

@@kevinw7319 K1 has no chance, sorry Creality!

@@tenminutetech I am thinking $799 with no AMS for the P1S. Slots in between the P1P at $599 and X1C at $1199.

Thanks for that advice. That would certainly help hest transfer but the solder LG used is bad and developes cracks under a few heating cycles when it's old and unfortunately paste won't help there.