Відео

Thank you!

Thank you sir!

In terms of carbide tool wear, it is insignificant. Imagine and compare to similar tool in a lathe. Say a cutting speed at least 10X and a dia 200 shaft 1m long gives a cutting length of 120m. Just for reference. Back to the question. The edge is diamond lapped sharp and keen, that's what I check. Sharpness and no damages by means of nail shaving and feeling plus visual loupe inspection.

Thanks for your kind words 😊

Thanks, there's more coming 🙂

There is nothing really wrong with your thinking in terms using the un worn end of the lathe, I have however a hard time picturing a configuration facilitating it somewhat easy. Some lathes had loose V-prisms that could be turned around, right or wrong.

Very carefully

It is indeed, it has an automatic oiling system feeding each side of the V-prisms individually with a heavy flow rate. I run it for quite some time to make sure the oil feed and film is steady before measuring or making chips

@@henrikandren6967 compared to lathe, its ways are used a lot more.

Please do 😀

Thanks, there's a few more in the pipeline 🙂

Edward Connelly, Machine Tool recondition.

Thanks!

Thanks for your kind words and you're spot on regarding cleaning and lubrication. I sent along some extra oilers to be installed.

Bagai mana cara memesan nya dan tau harganya

You offering?

No, just a normal old planer. Only replaced the belt drive with electric motor and VFD.

Thanks, and yah that orange tree have a hard life during winter here. It's a bit more happy now 🙂

It's has no hard ways, just had a hard life ;-) In fact it is very easy cutting material. And yes, the planer is set-up and tested.

@@henrikandren6967and if they were hardened, would you still have been able to cut it?

No, not like this. I do have a small grinding head adapted to fit but I'm still to put it to use as I'm concerned about grinding stuff and it's definitely not set up for flood cooling.

@@henrikandren6967 i wonder how it works, if the stone wears to smaller diameter, is it compensated somehow to make the result flat?

I'm no grinderhand but I'd think it wear in the similar amounts as other cutters and I think one dress the wheels for sharpness before they go that much out of size. Maybe some expert on grinding can give you a better answer. For me I'd be more concerned with heat build up.

Rees, First and foremost - Thanks for reaching out and your feedback! There is no coincidence I use a broad flat tool, I´ve watched all your youtube films and read the very nice paper you compiled and was uploaded on PM by Richard King. If anyone reading this has not watched Rees work - go visit his channel - like right Now. I have thought a bit about you comments and questions and I conclude I may need to re-phrase my english a bit. But also maybe start from what I think is the larger thing here. I have not intended to scrape finish it hence the whole, indeed, problematic situation with continuing scraping it "bowed" falls. Right or wrong, this bed cuts butter smooth and with a light deburr stoning with a flat ground precision stone one is hard pressed to scrape it better, only different. Mating surfaces otoh will be scrape fitted to the bed of course for proper contacting and oil retention. (Btw the Straight Edge is straight, check it regularly I´m fortunate to have a 2,4x1,3m surface plate.) Now moving on, my reference to schleisinger. Ah, I need to re-phrase that somehow. I wanted a reference for tolerance width in general. I am not meaning to claim it will be fully in spec as I do not do all tests and I can´t as I do not complete the rebuild entirely. I mainly take out the hardship by removing the large volumes and keeping the geometry togheter through planer work and some rough fitting. Then some is left for the owner. And no it does not specify that any bow Should be cut, rather it is allowed some. And as RK tought us to leave as much "flesh" as possible to allow the machine to first wear into spec - before wearing out of spec. And this is my take on it. I think it makes sense but It is just as easy to make it straight so should someone want it straight hence wearing out faster, fine by me :) Or then of course if one would be scraping it as second op. I hope this has clarified your questions somewhat, but please do continue giving me feedback . As I often say - I´m just a happy amatuer - on a good day, otherwise I´m just an amatuer :)

@@henrikandren6967 Thank you for your response. I had suspected that the problem had something to do with our different languages, so thanks for mentioning that. I am also a bit relieved to find that the specification you mentioned does not suggest an advantage in making the bed convex. I can now see how the language translations got in the way of me grasping that, too. It had not occurred to me that the surface would be used unscraped, and therein lies my inability to visualize how it would be scraped. Thanks for clarifying. Regardless of where you learned of using the flat-tool the way you do, I am glad to see it. I think it is key to making the planer useful for this kind of task, indeed, it makes the planer the best tool for the job. However, I have to confess that I was hoping, just a little, that you had learned of it somewhere else. It has always made me a bit uncomfortable to say that I had likely invented the technique - how could I know that? Finding out otherwise would have prevented me from saying it anymore. Oh, and I am glad you appreciate the Planer Work paper. As stated, I wrote it for my son, but I decided to publish it because there are not very many people left who know how to use a planer. I am hoping that helping people understand the tool might keep the old machines from being thrown away. There aren't many of them left either, and we are probably not going to build any more of them. -Rees

​@@reesacheson5577 I can´t recall seeing it anywhere else, beside your paper and videos I only have "Planers and Shapers" by John T. Shuman and Cincinnatis "Treatise on Planers" specifically targeting planer work. There are a few different variants of finishing tools but I like this one rather good. I have tried carbide with negative geometry, although cutting very well I think this positive geometry is better for this and it holds up really well. I have also started gathering stuff for a hydraulic conversion, Mainly a cylinder that should fit snugly with minimum changes. I think that´s actually the hardest part on this one and taking up the forces. Rgds Henrik

@@henrikandren6967 "I can´t recall seeing it anywhere else, beside your paper and videos I only have "Planers and Shapers" by John T. Shuman and Cincinnatis "Treatise on Planers" specifically targeting planer work. There are a few different variants of finishing tools but I like this one rather good." - Henrik Andrén To be clear, I do not claim to have invented the flat-tool, nor its general use, just its use in planing lathe bed ways - cutting the full width during each stroke. Conversely, the normal method is to cut incrementally down each side of the way, using multiple strokes to complete each pass. However, while on the subject, I did figure out for myself the mechanics of the flat-tool - what makes it work, and how to avoid "digging in". "Digging in" is the dreaded condition wherein the tool suddenly cuts much deeper - the full width of the tool - often ruining the workpeice. In the early 1970's, when I worked in a planer shop there was always a fear of digging in. No one seemed to know why it happened, it just did sometimes. It was not until later, when I had my own shop, that I figured why this occurs, how to avoid it, and how to design a successful flat-tool. It is that design that I published in the paper and in the flat-tool video. I do not at all claim to be the first to figure this out, just that I have never heard of an explanation, and I wished to publish it for the benefit of others. If I had not heard of it, it is likely that others had not either. -Rees

You two are lovely. This thread was an enjoyable read. The most humble people never take credit for the things they have taught - they just encountered a problem and solved it, then told their friends. Far too few of the older generation is willing to teach the younger generation. (Far too few of the younger generation is willing to listen). Far too much valuable knowledge is being lost as time goes on. I will forever be grateful to the “old guys” who were willing to “correct” me when I had done something stupid. Or were willing to fully explain WHY to do something. And I was always willing to put up with the “saltiness”. So much knowledge is too important not to pass down. I have scraped several of my machines. I once scraped 0.005” off an old mills knee vee ways - by hand… no power scraper. That was brutal. But that 1950’s Induma mill still cuts more square and true than any of my other mills.

Thanks! 🙂

Depends on the spec i guess... If it was to be ground I think it wouldn´t make sense to plane it first. If one wants to it is very possible to scrape finish it after planing it, relatively little work compared to before planing. Now you´d only need to modify the surface and make sure to not alter any flatness or alignment. Otoh, having planed it for smoothnes and the material cut butter smooth, the result after deburring with a ground precision stone really makes you think trice before starting doing anything else to it... I have though planed other cast irons where I would not feel satisfied with the planed finish for a sliding surface. So it might depend on the case at hand as well.

Depends. Some lathes have hardened beds and these are best ground. Often, the last bit is accuracy is obtained from hand scraping of the planed surface

This is google translate both ways so bare with me... Ja und nein... Die Vorher-Messung wie am 2:21min sind nur indikativ, ganz richtigt. Es sind eine aggregat von Planer längsbevegung und drehbenk aber es ist gut. Wie bei allen alten Maschinen müssen Sie wissen, wie sie funktionieren. Zum einen habe ich Arbeitsproben gemacht, um zu evaluieren, wie es läuft. Zum einen gibt es einen Zwischenschritt, den ich glaube ich in einem anderen Film gezeigt zu haben, wo ich vor dem letzten Feinschnitt eine Kontrollmessung mit einem Scheuerlineal durchführe. Hat auch ein Video des Testschnitts in voller Länge. Die Eier sind im Nest ;-) Sehr gute und intressant Arbeit in Ihren Videos!

@@henrikandren6967 Vielen Dank für die Antwort. 👍 Was ist denn Ihre Muttersprache?

Meine muttersprach sind Schwedisch, oder Svenska som vi säger här 🙂

Thank you 😊

Thanks Jan, ah although it brings something essentially out of order to working condition its not to compare with a proffesionell rebuild. The best thing is that from here most every one mechanically inclined can do the rest.

​@@henrikandren6967 would scrapping be the next step ???

Thanks! 😊

Thanks!

Thanks! About 0,2+ mm on the surfaces, on both sides of the V-way. Had to remove 0,25mm on both sides.

@@henrikandren6967 Wow! That is a substantial amount of wear! I would expect in the region of this also for the underside of the saddle? It had to be a long time since this lathe was accurate..

Ah, for sure! And yes the sad-le is a chapter of its own. But the nice thing is that this way its very possible to restore it to very good working condition and it should serve well for a long!

That carbide must be razor sharp to pick the cut back up and not slide over it!

Yes, it's lapped to sharp keen edge.

Ja, det var rejäla vändkanter!

Thanks for your input! Always nice to contribute to some inspiration! The tool is a bit sharp, but the hot rolled steel ain't the 1st choice for mirror finish 😉 Here I was really just wanting to test the overall working tolerance of it. Which led my to the next video 😉 Welcome!

@@henrikandren6967 oh, why, thanks for posting about such a lovely machine... It`s just the right size for a larger hobby shop, and it`s bloody brilliant in ways in which it can be modified... One could adapt both a grinder head and a mill head to the body of this machine and she would become a ridiculously versatile beast in a shop, all the while taking very little space for the range of work offered... I`m in love my dude... All the best! Steuss

Hej, Stora kan man hitta men det är långt emellan och så här lite har jag inte sett heller. Till drivning använder jag en elmotor med reduktionsväxel och frekvensstyrning, istället för remdrivningen som satt där original.

Thanks! 👍