Thank YOU!!! So very generous of you! 🙏 Only please do be sure to REAM the pipe before flaring...which I forgot to demonstrate in the video! 😔 All the best!
@@PlumbingsCool Yeah, this isn't my first trip around the hardware store. Being autistic, I just needed some visual images to reorient myself. But regardless, I wanted to show my appreciation for the otherwise direct and concise information. Being an expert in a number of different realms, it's always a challenge to convey all of the information one knows about a topic because it's so habitual.
Depending on the reamer/techniques , sometimes with the pen reamers, techs accidentally gouge the inside of the tube near the opening which causes imperfections in the flare face.
@@OnePointLanderI'm a rookie, shadetree plumber. I'm pretty sure this is why I'm having trouble getting my flared fittings to stop leaking. I'd appreciate a tutorial on how to do the reaming properly.
Same here, I remember having flare parties with 8 or 9 couples every month in the 70s! We would all put our flares in a bowl, and then randomly pick... Wait, were they flares or....
@tomstricklin3409 , I last flared helping my Dad in the 50s, 70 years ago. but now need to once again, so the refresher was helpful. Some YTs prescribe using a torque wrench to tighten the fitying, but the cheapest one I can find is $134, so I might "wing" it, as this will probably be my one use of it.
Better late than never! Brazing is actually easier, faster, and cheaper in the long-run. More tools give you more options! If you do end up flaring, just be sure to ream the end of the pipe before you do so (which I forgot to show in the video!) 😮
1.Deburr the pipe before creating the flare. 2.No hardened multi grip plier jaws on any chrome plated tools please. (As a fridgy, seeing that makes me cringe). The tee bar of the flaring yoke is used between the wings of the wing nuts of clamping dies for nipping it up tight. 3. HVAC often uses up to around 800psi, not 300.
Improper preparation of the pipe. Hard pipe needs to be annealed before flaring. Pipe needs to be reamed before flaring. Your fittings and flaring block are trashed from using pliers.
@@PlumbingsCoolyeah, I noticed this as well. For the DIY guy it's probably not a big deal but assuming that deburring was covered in the cutting video the other stuff probably isn't a problem. Otherwise it should probably be redone.
No, I DON'T think the problem is you! If it's slipping and the tool's bolt even actually broke, then I'm guessing you have a poor-quality tool. By the way, I never showed it in the video, but it will help to soften the pipe by preheating the end with a torch until it's red-hot, and allowing it to naturally cool. This will make the flaring process MUCH easier on you - and your tool!
Wholeheartedly agree with you about deburring (which I forgot to demonstrate!). 3/16th is awfully close to 1/8th when eyeballing it. As long as that nut can slip past the flare, you're golden!
@@PlumbingsCool It was still a good video . I also like to put a small amount of Nylog blue on the pipe before I flare it as it makes for a better flare.
Thanks very much! Yes, I've heard of the Nylon Blue from the HVAC crowd, who all swear by it. However, not sure it's approved for plumbing (particularly potable water applications). Thanks for the feedback!
Thanks, and welcome! I'll certainly do my best not to disappoint. Time is my biggest challenge at the moment, but stick around for some stuff I hope you'll find interesting.
Thank you for your feedback, Sheldon. You're correct in stating that it is best practice to ream the pipe prior to flaring, which I admittedly overlooked in the heat of filming this video. That said, I want to add that if reaming, it's important to remove only enough material to restore the full bore of the pipe; over-reaming may do more harm than good, as doing so may weaken the flare, leading to joint failure. Thank you for watching.
Yes, when ordering flared connections, they are typically ordered based upon the tubing's outside diameter. I can't confirm, but I'm presuming that flared connections for RV gas lines utilize the same standardized method of connection...however, be sure that any flared fittings and copper piping you use for such an application are approved for use with gas lines. Hope this helps.
Hi Mario. Although I'm not a specialist in refrigeration, I would say that copper piping used for refrigeration purposes can certainly be used for air lines, provided that you do not exceed the piping's air pressure capacities...which is capable of handing at least 300PSI. Note that tre diameter of piping has no effect on PSI, although it WILL have an effect on VOLUME. You mentioned using smaller 1/4" piping, which would carry less amount at a certain PSI than a larger pipe would (and may therefore be too small to suit your needs). Hope this helps.
Great video! I am installing a mini-split in my RV and there is a great emphasis on having the proper 45 degree flare on the copper tubing; some commenters have said there is a "special" 45 degree flaring tool you need to purchase specifically for these mini-splits. But early in your video, you seemed to mention that 45 degree flares using the tool you are working with is typical, or they "mate" with the flare fitting (0:53). My question, then, is: do you need a special flaring tool to make 45 degree flares, or will the tool you demo in this video make them naturally if done correctly? Thanks.
Thanks for Yue) your kind words! 🙏 From my understanding, although all flares are typically made using 45-degree angles, some connections are double-flared, as opposed to single-flared as demonstrated in this video. I'm not an AC guy, but I think single-flare would suffice for your application, which could be manufactured using this tool. A double-flare connection has the flare rim folding in on itself. Still at a 45-degree angle, but requires a different flaring tool. If you can assess exisitng fittings/connectors on the system, you should be able to quickly determine the flare type. Also, be sure to slightly deburr the pipe prior to making your flare, which I forgot to do during the fuss of making these early videos! 🤦♂️ Hope this helps, and good luck!
@@PlumbingsCool Thanks for the information and not posing yourself as an expert "AC guy" when you don't have the experience and background in working in this specialized area. But the pro's in the mini-split field, like I mentioned before, make a big deal out of these 45 degree flares. One commenter suggested this brand: “Rothesberger” who makes a 45 degree flaring tool. I looked this brand up on Amazon and was not able to tell the difference between the tool you were demonstrating and that one (though they looked different). I'm still a bit in the dark as why they insist on these 45 degree flares if, as you might suggest, they are typical when you correctly use a regular flare tool. Again, appreciate your video and timely response to my question.
Lol...well, the way I see it is that, regardless of the tool you're using to produce a single flare, the result needs to be compatible with the flared fittings and nuts that are on the market - which (as far as I know) are spec'd to be produced at a 45-degree angle, so the cheaper tool should theoretically work. If you were in a trade or situation which required you to produce flares on a regular basis, then I'd absolutely agree to purchase the best quality tool you can afford at the time, as it becomes integral to your livelihood, efficiency or safety...but if the tool is intended for one-time or very sparse usage, then I don't see the point in spending the money if the cheaper tool will suit the task at hand. Just my two cents!
@@PlumbingsCool Thanks. Maybe these "specialized" 45 degree flaring tools are simply an advertising gimmick if all flaring tools are manufactured to make 45 degrees.
That's awesome! Truth is that my students are very much responsible for fueling my fire for making these videos. So if it helps out OTHER students even a bit, then that makes me that me that much more inspired to keep making them! Good luck, and hope you enjoy Plumbing school, wherever that may be! 👍
@@PlumbingsCool Thank you, is it okay if I ask you some questions as the course progresses?? Some of concepts are a bit confusing. This is an entire new thing for me.
Ooh! California! Geographically beautiful state with amazing weather (We've got the pretty landscape, but the weather is MUCH to be desired!). Your Codes may not be identical to our Ontario/Canadian Plumbing Codes, but there is still much overlap between US and Canada (physics works the same everywhere in the world, as far as I know 😁)! The most mystifying topic I find most students struggle with is venting and sizing - and for good reason, due to all the rules involved. When you do get into the subject of venting and drainage, you may want to check out two videos I produced not too long ago, which was intended SPECIFICALLY for first-year students. It's real-world before-and-after of a century-old home I did, which takes you through tons of do's and dont's in terms of drainage and venting. The first video takes you through the exisitng plumbing: ua-cam.com/video/df61XD7A8lA/v-deo.html ...and the second video walks you through the corrected plumbing: ua-cam.com/video/ry6kVUNeGSU/v-deo.html They're not the most exciting of videos, but a lot of my students have found benefit in helping them understand venting and drainage in a real-world application. Hope it helps and good luck! Meanwhile, you know how to find me!
Good suggestion in hindsight, although the goal was to show the flaring process on the pipe, rather than how to tighten the flare onto a fitting. But you're definitely right on the deburring...which I accidentally overlooked because I was too distracted trying to figure out how to film a video during these first early days.
Thanks for the refresher. I need to flare for the first time (and probably last time) since I helped my Dad about 65 years ago (I'm 78 now). Based on other YTs , I will deburr and use a drop of Nylog. I might skip using a torque wrench, as the cheapest I could find is $134. My Dad never used. Those who do it regularly develop a feel for how much to tighten the futting, I guess. Thanks again, and cheers.
Oh wow!...thanks so much! 🙏🙏 🙏 . Yes, absolutely, wholeheartedly agree on the deburring prior to flaring. Unfortunately, in this early video, I was so focused on getting accustomed to capturing it on camera, I forgot to debur! 😔 I've heard of the Nylog stuff, which HVAC folks swear by, although I'm not too sure it's approved for potable water lines. Thank you again so much for your generosity...humbly appreciated!
I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what you mean. Could you please explain? Of the many flare joints I've installed, I have one yet to leak, so your feedback would be welcomed.
Did I really say that?? Thank you for the correction; grammar aficionados have long had a special place in my heart! (But who's Snaith?? 🤔) In any event, thanks for watching...and teaching!
Thanks very much! 🙏 I've personally never used Nylog Blue, as it's designed for refrigeration. I'd first look into ensuring that it's formally approved for potable water systems before using it for plumbing. But for refrigeration, I've heard many HVAC techs swear by the stuff.
Awesome, and good luck with the transition! Only be sure to REAM your tubing before flaring (which slipped my mind while making the video! 😒) And especially because you're dealing with gas be sure to thoroughly PRESSURE TEST all your joints & connections!
Well, that would be cool, but that sort of defeats the purpose and benefits of flaring...and poses other issues. First, you'd need a specially-shaped washer/gasket that contours and angles perfectly to the flare. Second, the rubber would corrode over time and is sensitive to heat. In the case of traditional flaring, the copper material IS the gasket, and will not corrode. Squishing the material when you tighten it will provide a seal more reliable and durable than any gasket ever could. Only be sure to ream the pipe before flaring it, which I forgot to show in the video!
You are correct!...amidst the hubbub of filming these earlier videos, I forgot to mention the importance of deburring! Apologies! Nonethess, I hope the video still provides overall value to the viewer.
LOL! I've never gotten that one before!...I'll take it, and I'll wear it as a badge of honour...I absolutely LOVE Jordan Peterson! I refer to him as my spiritual father! 🦞
I'm honestly not sure, as it depends on your specific automotive requirements. I can tell you that flared fittings are successfully used in vehicles: I just finished replacing one of my vehicle's Bosch fuel filter and accumulator, and all connections were about 1/4" OD flared... aside from the lines conveying gasoline, they're also under a significant amount of pressure, and they connected with minimal issue. Best to ask a licensed mechanic, just to be sure.
I work in a refinery & every time in repairing steam leaks with copper tubing. I always have a hard time putting a new compression fitting on a heated 1/2 copper tube. Any recommendations?
Hi there! Interesting question. I'm presuming that your difficulty is the result of thermal expansion causing the pipe to be too big for the compression fitting or ferrule? Just curious as to why you're using compression; to be honest, I'm not a fan of traditional compression, at least for water pressure because the joints fail too easily after minimal movement. I'm not aware of the scenario or application, but are you perhaps able to braze the jointd using couplings? The couplings might be easier to slip on, and the brazing joint would be much stronger than any compression joints. Just my two cents. Another thing which comes to mind is whether you're reaming the pipe when you're trying to slip your compression fittings on. I'm wondering whether your cutting method is leaving a burr on the outside edge of the pipe, preventing the fitting to slip on.
I am trying to learn how to hook up a .75" ( copper tube ?) between a Harbor Freight 5 HP air compressor pump and an air tank check valve. The pressure switch is set to 135 psi maximum. Most of the units I look at seem to use an annealed soft metal tube. All of the fittings are flared and designed to be used with .75" tubing. Is it okay to use the soft copper coiled stuff for this task? I need to bend this tube as well. Is the hard copper suitable for bending?
Generally, soft annealed copper coil is typically used for for flared joints, as it's much easier to work with. In the video, I'm demonstrating with hard-drawn copper pipe, which is certainly doable, albeit more stubborn. If you have a choice, opt for the soft copper coil. If you have only access to hard-drawn copper pipe, you may want to preheat it to soften it up a bit, which render making the flare joint a whole lot easier. In either event, ensure that the pipe you're using is at least of Type "L" thickness; Type "M" is just way too thin for it to be stretched out when flaring. As far as bending and pressure ratings is concerned: provided that you're using approved plumbing or refrigeration copper tubing, you should have no issue handling 135 PSI; Our Plumbing Code here in Ontario mandates the pressure-testing of waterpipe at a pressure up to 150 PSI...and I sometimes pressure-test my students' copper shop projects at upward of 300PSI just for giggles! Finally, with respect to the bending hard-drawn pipe, our Codebook only specifies: 7.3.3.10.(1): Types M and DWV shall not be bent., and 7.3.3.10.(2): Bends in copper tubing of soft or bending temper shall be made with tools manufactured and sized for the purpose. So it doesn't explicitly say that you cannot bend hard-drawn pipe, only that it must be "of bending temper". I've bent hard copper pipe several times. And although you'll need some serious elbow grease, you can do so without issue...provided that you have the proper bending tool, which is not common to come by. In summary, If possible, try to get a hold of of some 3/4" Type "L" soft copper coil to serve your compressor project needs. But in the worst-case, hard-drawn Type L will suffice, provided that you adhere to my aforementioned points. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
A valid question! The truth is that this was one of my first videos, and amidst the entire foreign process of recording videos, I slipped up on deburring the pipe! But yes, you are absolutely correct: the pipe should be properly deburred prior to flaring. My bad, and it won't happen again!
You're not wrong about deburring ...to be honest, I forgot to demonstrate it because I was too distracted with the recording components of these early videos. 🤷
I did like that video very clear and clean will be changing front brake caliper flex hose soon and will need to know how to flare brake tube thanks good reference video
Thanks very much! 🙏. Only be sure to flare your brake lines properly. The one demonstrated in the video is for simple single-flare water lines. Some automotive flare connections may be double-flared or even bubble flared, which would require a different flaring tool. Please do double-check, as you surely don't want your brakes to fail on you due to improper connection.
con le nuove attrezzature fare una cartella ci metti 15 secondi, ormai i professionisti usano la cartellatrice elettrica con le matrici per i vari diametri e non ti sbagli mai. Non si può vedere usare la pinza per stringere l'attrezzo. Poi poco comoda questa soluzione quando lavori sul posto
Grazie per il suo commento È bellissimo sapere i metodi di lavoro da gli altri paesi - particolarmente l'Italia! La verità è che qui in Canada quel metodo di aggiunge il rame non si usa troppo spesso nella nostra professione d'idraulico. Le attrezzature che lei descrive esistono anche da noi, però lo scopo del video è per mostrare un modo abbastanza semplice, e usando strumenti semplici e non troppo costoso. In più, anche per noi non è normale o professionale di usare le pinze per stringere gli attrezzi...volevo solo mostrare come si aggiunge il tubo. Tante belle cose! 🇮🇹
Excellent explanation - is it OK to undo/loosen a connection and then tighten it back up (so for example, to do some other work) or do you need to make a new flare? Thanks again.
Thank you very much! 🙏 Yes, you can absolutely undo them and retighten them back up again without issue. The only addition I recommend since making this early video is that you may want to debur or ream the pipe prior to making the flare. Also, if you are using hard-drawn rigid pipe (as opposed to soft annealed copper coil), it will be much easier on your tool (and you wrist!) if you first heat up the pipe with a torch and allow it to naturally cool, so as to soften up the metal's temper. You can refer to my Copper Swaging video at around the 10:30 mark, for what I'm referring to: ua-cam.com/video/87OvD-Eohqg/v-deo.html Thanks again for your time and supportive words!
It depends on whether you mean 7/8" outside diameter (OD) or inside diameter (ID). What plumbers call 3/4", actually measures 7/8" on the outside. The measurements on tools usually refer to OD. So if you need to flare 3/4" ID pipe, then you need to find a tool that flares 7/8" OD...which I do indeed know exist. If your pipe is 7/8" ID (which I've never seen), then you need to find a tool that flares 1" OD. Once you confirm your ID and OD diameters, simply do a google search, and you should be able to find an appropriately-sized tool. Hope this helps.
When it comes to installation of a gas water heater, is the plumber responsible for installing the vent pipe in Kentucky? Had one installed and did not pass code because of vent. Now plumber wants to change to electric. Tells me HVAC is responsible for vent? Thanks in advance.
By "vent piping", I presume you mean the gas flue venting? If so, that's a tricky one, as the rules vary from area to area. Here in Ontario, Canada, the only ones who are allowed to connect gas lines & flue piping (and commission gas appliances) are those with a separate TSSA certification - irrespective of whether they're a licensed plumber or not. However, if I correctly recall, plumbers in our province of Alberta have jurisdiction for gas and flue vent connections. Therefore, a licensed plumber in Ontario can connect gas appliances, ONLY IF they also acquired their separate TSSA certification. I did a quick search to see if I can find an answer for you about Kentucky, but I'm not clear on whether your state mandates installation by individuals who are specifically certified for gas appliances. For what it's worth, here's some statute law I came across: casetext.com/statute/kentucky-revised-statutes/title-19-public-safety-and-morals/chapter-234-liquefied-petroleum-gas-and-other-flammable-liquids/safety-provisions/section-234175-certification-of-equipment-installation-compliance-with-administrative-regulations-and-manufacturers-instructions-immunity-from-liability-exception In any event, is it not possible to simply limit the plumber to the water connections and get a qualified HVAC tech run the flue vent? Unless the tank is already old (tanks only last about 8-12 years, typically), I'm guessing it'll still be a lot cheaper than outright replacing the tank (and A LOT less expensive over time than heating with electric!). Just my two cents. By the way: KENTUCKY'S AWESOME!!! 👍
@@PlumbingsCool Thanks my friend. This was a contract job by Lowe's. Subbed to another company. After their install of the new gas heater it does not pass code. The vent pipe wasn't right. Now the sub company says they weren't responsible for vent? We paid for the job and now the sub contractor says how about we change over to electric but you have to pay for electric ran to heater. Either way I feel I paid for a service contract that wasn't fulfilled. Now they want more money for their mistake. The vent would be close to 25 feet . They gave me a quote which wasn't cheap when first installing heater. I paid without a discount I was supposed to get in the first place. Now it doesn't pass code. Is an electric even close to a gas heater? I expect them to show up with a cheaper version of electric if I were to agree, but how can i be responsible for anything in this after their fail?
I'm sorry for your agony; it's extremely frustrating when people don't own up to their mistakes and try to pass the buck. Having to pay for the replacement of a water heater as a result of an installer's incompetence is beyond the scope of ridiculous. They should have at least warned you before they installed the tank so that you had an option to cancel the contract. But given that your original agreement was with Lowe's, I would argue that the responsibility lies with THEM to correct this issue. If I properly understand your situation, Lowe's is who arranged the contractor, and therefore Lowe's should be responsible. My advice would be to find out who's in charge and WRITE (don't just call) a strong, detailed letter/email to store or corporate management outlining the situation, including your purchase agreement and general timeline of events, and specifically seek immediate remedy or resolution for something they should have been responsible for in the first place. Given that it's Lowe's, I'm guessing they sell furnaces as well and should therefore also have access to HVAC contractors who can run proper flue venting for your gas water heater. You shouldn't have to suffer for this in any way. You might even want to suggest filing a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. Be firm and consistent with your demands for an immediate resolution, and don't allow them to brush you off. And certainly steer clear of that plumber, who sounds like an incompetent crook, and does nothing more than give other plumbers a bad reputation. Best of luck with your predicament. EDIT: One thing I should add is that you should check your contract with Lowe's to ensure that there aren't any disclaimers indicating that they are not responsible for replacing any existing material or equipment, and that any modifications to exisitng will be extra to the contract. If that is the case, you may be out of luck and will need to bear the cost of replacing the vent, as the sub company would not be responsible for it. But it's still silly to suggest that you bear the additional cost of replacing a new gas water heater with an electric one...and I'm guessing it's still a lot cheaper to run gas flue piping than replacing it with an electric water heater (both short term and long term). Hope this helps.
@@PlumbingsCool Thanks again. The contractor wanting to change to electric no charge to keep from dealing with the gas vent was strange. The Plumbing Inspector say this company has 3 more just like this. His advice, you paid for a complete new heater install. Their problem. Like you said everyone is trying to put the buck on me. I did talk as you figured to Lowe's who put it off on installer. A complete mess. Thanks for your time and your informative channel. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great video. I have to shorten a flared tube on a propane line for the house and bought the flaring tools but the thought of screwing it up gives me the heebe geebes, thinking I might screw it up and explain it to my wife.
Why, thank you! 🙏 With respect to your situation: Taking on your propane line connection is really dependent on your comfort level. If you do decide to flare your propane line, be sure to thoroughly soap test the joint after you pressurize the line by completely by covering it with a leak detector solution (sold at plumbing/HVAC suppliers or big box stores) or with a homemade mixture of dish soap (i.e. Palmolive) and water. You may also want to lightly ream or debur the pipe BEFORE you flare it, which will remove any burrs as a result of cutting it - and which I forgot to mention in the video (oops!). Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Am wondering how to expand the end of a copper pipe that would allow the end of another pipe of similar diameter to be inserted into the expanded pipe end for say, soldering.
Yes, there's absolutely a way to do as you've described, and it's even got a name: SWAGING! You've got me wondering whether I should produce a video on it...but until time allows me to do so, here's a brief rundown for you: Swaging is when you take a plain-end piece of copper tubing, and you stretch out the end of it to form a female end so that it accepts a plain end piece of tubing (effectively eliminating the need for a coupling). Swaging can be carried out in a number of ways. The traditional method is to use a simple swaging tool, which is merely a machined piece of solid steel, about four inches long, which is tapered and shaped to fit easily into the inside of the tubing on one end, and is flattened on the opposite end to allow for hard striking of the tool with a sledge hammer. Striking of the swaging tool drives the conical/tapered end into the pipe, thereby expanding it...and voilà! A few important key points to keep in mind when swaging: 1. Expand the pipe to accommodate the SAME SIZE of the pipe (i.e., you can't take 1/2" pipe and stretch it out to accept 3/4"). 2. The pipe should be at least Type L copper pipe any thinner-walled (M or DWV), runs the risk of splitting it. 3. You had mentioned soldering of the joint. Although you are technically correct, the connection should consist of SILVER soldering, otherwise known as brazing, which is much stronger than traditional soft-soldering using a traditional tin alloy. And for that, I'm pleased to say that I do have a video: ua-cam.com/video/FHQEn3o0_B0/v-deo.html Hope the above helps, and thanks for watching!
Although it's very important to clean the pipe prior to soldering, there's no need to clean the pipe for flaring...more so because it's the inside of the flared pipe that makes contact with the fitting and seals. However, I mus admit that I DID make the mistake of not demonstrating that the pipe should be reamed for a flare joint. Whoops! 🤭
what is the difference in clutch-type(rigid-type) and wing-nut type(imperial type) of a flare tool? it says this in the manual and even has different depths for them and i could probably use the flare fittings to install water pipes behind walls then?
I think you're referring to a ratcheting clutch-type, which releases the tension when the flare is complete and is easier to operate than the less expensive and simpler one I use in the video. I'm not sure about what's written in your manual, but both types are available in imperial measurement. Technically, yes you should be able to to use flared connections for water pipe within concealed walls. Here in Canada we're actually allowed to bury them underground! However you will need to check with your local plumbing code laws to be sure. Also, I'm not sure that utilizing multiple flared joints for water distribution pipes is very practical, because the connection fittings are both quite expensive and time-consuming. You may be better off learning the classic skill of copper pipe soldering if you're installing a lot of pipe. At some point you'll need to adapt from flared to another connection type anyway, such as when your lines reach the fixtures. I encourage you to keep an eye out on my channel, as I'm planning on filming a soldering video some time soon because people keep asking about it. Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@PlumbingsCool now i think that these are actually the company names - Ridgid and Imperial, but still dont know what type they are supposed to be lol. but maybe its still just a wing-nut type when it doesnt have somekind of clutch mechanism inside, so i would have to use the bigger depth chart with that ?
Yes, Ridgid is very likely the brand name you're referring to. Here in North America, Ridgid has long been the go-to "Porsche" of plumbing and pipe tools: They're absolutely top-notch, but you do get that quality at a steeper price! Ridgid has both ratcheted and the simpler one. I'm guessing Imperial is another brand name. I can't remember which brand I'm using in the video, but if you expect to make only a few joints, you'll probably be just fine with a less expensive brand/type. If it's for for high-frequency, long-term usage, then definitely invest in the more quality tools (which exist from brands aside from Ridgid - namely those used by the HVAC technicians). I'm guessing by "depth", you're referring to how far past the holding block you should place the pipe, which may vary based on the tool. With the one in the video, it sufficed for me to go just past 1/8th of an inch past the block's edge. It ma the take some experimentation with your tool (or refer to the instructions, as you are doing). The important thing is that you make your flare narrow enough so that the flare nut can slip over it, but wide enough so that the flare face adequately meets the fitting's face with enough surface area to provide an adequate seal. Also, if you're flaring hard pipe (not soft coil) it may be helpful for you to first preheat the pipe end with a torch and allow it to naturally cool, which will soften it and make for a much easier flaring process. I show how to do this in my swaging video at around 10.5 minutes in: ua-cam.com/video/87OvD-Eohqg/v-deo.html And finally, it's good practice to ream/debur the pipe to remove any sharp edges prior to flaring (which I forgot to show in this video! 😣) Hope this helps!
What tool do you need to flare a pipe so you can fit another pipe inside for soldering? I had to use end feed couplers to extend some radiator pipes and it looks all right but it would have been more discreet with one pipe going straight into the other like a 'street' fitting.
Yes, you are correct! Unfortunately, that was an oversight on my part, while I was still all caught up in the hub-bub of filming during the early days of making these video. Yes, definitely DEBUR before flaring! 👍
Yes, annealing (or pre-heating) the pipe end would certainly facilitate the process, Ironically, I was never taught in school, or required to do so as part of the plumbing competitions I participated in, whenever flaring hard-drawn copper pipe. So your suggestion is certainly not a bad idea. Realistically though, most flaring applications would usually entail the usage of soft-annealed (i.e., "copper coil"), rather than hard-drawn to begin with. Thanks for your feedback!
Good question. Theoretically, you shouldn't need to add anything if it's a good flare. Applying T-tape runs the risk of causing obstruction, specifically if some of it were to break off and end up in the system. Generally, T-tape should be limited only to outer (male) threads, and leaving the first or second thread bare, to prevent the potential for obstruction as described above. That said, I have had those in the refrigeration industry advise that they use a sealant called Nylog Blue...however, I can't vouch for it as I've never used it - plus it's likely not approved for potable water applications.
I presume you meant SOLDER, and not WELD, which is a completely different process, and does not usually apply to copper piping. Generally, yes: it's much easier and less expensive to solder the pipe using a coupling to connect the two pipe pieces. Although it also depends upon the application. If you're using the pipe above-ground and it will be subject to pressures of no more than 80 PSI (550 Kpa), then soldering is fine. However, if you want to bury the pipe below ground and /or you are conveying higher pressures, then you may want to either flare or braze the pipe (otherwise known as hard-soldering or silver-soldering). I intend to do a video on soft-soldering in the near future, as I've been getting many requests about it. Hope that helps for now, and thank you for watching.
Hmmm...I'm not sure how that would work, given that it needs to push the flare outward, which would be inhibited by any restrictions. But, if you could figure that out, perhaps you'd be sitting on a multi-million idea!
Correto. Este tubo é igual a 1/2 "(12,7 mm) DENTRO, mas mede 5/8" (15,9 mm) externamente. Nós, encanadores aqui no Canadá, nomeamos nossos tubos com base em seu diâmetro interno; os técnicos de refrigeração referem-se a ele pelo seu diâmetro externo. Obrigado por assistir!
Hmmm...my math tells me that a 5/8" OD flaring tool is equivalent to 15.875mm, which would too big to be able to even hold the tubing in the block. However, if you get your hands on a 9/16" OD flare, that'll equate to 14.2875mm, which will get you much closer to your target size of 14.5mm. A quick search shows that 14mm flaring tools are available, which may be able to hold your tubing without excessively pinching it. However, using off-size is a bit of a gamble, and you'd need to ensure that the specifications between SAE and your target flare are identical (i.e., same 45-degree manufactured flare angle)...but it MIGHT just work. To be honest, I've never flared off-size before...but now you've got me curious!
Not sure if you'd need to sand it down if you can get your hands on a 9/16" OD, as it's off by so little. Could you perhaps try some test flares with some scrap material before installing? Anyway, glad to be of help (for whatever it's worth!) Good luck! 🤞
The specific video uses hard-drawn copper pipe. That said, utilizing soft annealed is certainly easier and more common. One-way to facilitate flaring hard-drawn is to first heat it up, thereby changing its temper. Thanks for watching!
Great question. I've seen and used torque wrenches specifically made for flare nuts; I think it's somewhere around 30 ft-lbs if I'm not mistaken. The truth is however, that most plumbers don't flare often enough to justify the cost of those specialized wrenches. More importantly, we're supposed to leak-test everything before concealing our joint, so if there's an issue, we should catch it. Generally, make sure that you initially tighten the nut just snug, and finalize it by turning the nut about another quarter-turn, which will help squish the copper into acting as a seal between the nut and fitting. Again, always, always test your work for leaks. Thanks for your question, and I hope this helps!
Yes, flaring works perfectly well with copper coil (otherwise known as "soft annealed" copper), provided that you utilize a minimum thickness (referred to as "Type") of Type "L" copper. As a matter of fact, it's more likely you'd be applying flared connections to copper coil than you would hard drawn copper.
Great question! Although annealing (or using soft copper coil from the get-go) certainly makes the flaring process easier, you can flare hard-drawn copper pipe without treating it; I have my students do it all the time.
GUILTY! 😪 The truth is that I just wanted to show the flare joint; proper tightening methods wasn't an incentive (although I suppose it should've been!) I must confess though...even on the field, I reach for my faithful pump pliers probably way more often than my more appropriate open-end wrenches.
This is known as a pipe flaring tool. Here's a link to Ridgid's website as an example...but there are certainly cheaper alternatives out there - especially if you only need to make an occasional flare or two: www.ridgid.com/us/en/flaring-tools
I'm thinking of making nozzle the same way you make flare in pipes. I'm thinking of using 3/4 pipe copper pipe and try to expand the other end to be about 5/4 diameter so what do you think ? is it possible or it will crack before reaching 5/4 ?
Hmmm....I'm not sure exactly what you mean by making the other end "5/4". If you mean to widen the 3/4" diameter pipe to a size of 1-1/4" (which is effectively 5/4 in simplified fractions), and then proceed to flare that end to mate with an 1-1/4" flared fitting, then I would strongly recommend AGAINST it. Enlarging a pipe is formally referred to as "swaging", and our Plumbing Code here in Ontario explicitly states that swaging can only be done so to connect to pipe of the same diameter: "7.3.3.1.(3): A copper water distribution pipe of 1 inch size or larger may be mechanically swaged to permit the joining of other copper pipe of EQUAL SIZE." In other words, the Code only allows you to take a male copper pipe end (referred to as a "spigot"), and convert that pipe end to a female end (know as a "hub") so that you can join another male end OF THE SAME SIZE AS THE ORIGINAL PIPE (minimum 1-inch, however), thereby eliminating the need to use a coupling. Also, you should do so using a minimum thickness of Type "L" copper pipe. Anything thinner (Type "M" or Type "DWV") does not provide enough material to allow the material to stretch out without cracking, ripping or maintaining proper strength. If you're needing to change the actual diameter of piping, you should only do so using a proper reducing coupling and properly-sized pipe - in your case a 1-1/4" x 3/4" reducing copper pressure coupling, and a piece of nominal 1-1/4" copper pipe. If you need a male end on the 1-1/4" side (and would rather not purchase a whole length!), you can instead purchase a 1-1/4" x 3/4" reducing BUSHING, which will give you a female hub for the 3/4" side, and a male spigot on the 1-1/4" side (only provided you don't need to flare the 1-1/4" side). Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@PlumbingsCool I couldn't make what I want clear so I will try to rephrase it again. I don't what to connect two pipes with each other. I want to have pipe one end 3/4 and the other end is 1-1/4 for collage project not for water pipes. I want to use copper pipes as it's easy to be deformed to match the shape I want. The nozzle I want to make looks a like the one in this link rocketschnozzles.weebly.com/uploads/2/9/0/4/29045379/8739941.jpg What I'm asking if I get 3/4 pipe and did the same what you did here to expand the other end to be 1-1/4 is it possible or will it crack before reaching 1-1/4 ? I'm asking as I don't have this tools and will get it only to do the nozzle.
Ah, I see. I would say that you will have issues for a few reasons. First, the flaring tool will not expand the pipe wide enough to reach 1-1/4, nor wil you achieve the shape you're looking for. As well, you may very likely stretch the pipe too thin to achieve the 1/2" increase in diameter. You can certainly experiment, but I'd recommend at least Type "K" (the thickest copper pipe), and I'd significantly heat the pipe with a blowtorch first, to change/soften the temper of the pipe. Looking at the shape that you linked, I'm just wondering whether you can save yourself the headache by just purchasing something similar to the shape you're looking for (provided your school project parameters allow you to). I mentioned couplings & bushings in my last reply. You can pick up a 1-1/4" x 3/4" coupling or bushing in various materials which are accurate to your desired size, and closely match the aforementioned shape. Here are some examples: Copper Reducing Coupling: www.grainger.ca/en/product/p/WWG1VLK9?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ6PVOAs4YtYvoQV2jGGAjzV7PbXFtZKlcSyIU6RpUrUTCKdk7-1aAIaAhdwEALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ6PVOAs4YtYvoQV2jGGAjzV7PbXFtZKlcSyIU6RpUrUTCKdk7-1aAIaAhdwEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3645!3!303439923758!!!g!325537765342! Black Malleable Reducing Coupling: www.google.com/search?q=1-1/4%22+x+3/4%22+black+malleable+coupling&rlz=1C1CHBF_enCA939CA939&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiRw92urfnwAhXDXc0KHZ8DAA0Q_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1920&bih=937#imgrc=7X2_khoyWuATPM PVC Reducing Coupling: duboisag.com/ca_en/reducing-coupling-slip-936.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ7Ru-C3Fqrfn1FTgU0byzfUJrZH6aFms9MJLv8qXdBUZYpD6DXqym0aAhvLEALw_wcB If you're looking for any of these items, you should be able to do so by visiting any reputable plumbing supplier. Hope this helps and good luck with your project!
Thanks you.
Thank YOU!!! So very generous of you! 🙏
Only please do be sure to REAM the pipe before flaring...which I forgot to demonstrate in the video! 😔
All the best!
@@PlumbingsCool Yeah, this isn't my first trip around the hardware store. Being autistic, I just needed some visual images to reorient myself. But regardless, I wanted to show my appreciation for the otherwise direct and concise information. Being an expert in a number of different realms, it's always a challenge to convey all of the information one knows about a topic because it's so habitual.
You left out a CRITICAL STEP! You should always ream the end of the pipe before flaring it make for a MUCH BETTER SAFER SMOOTH SEALED CONNECTION!
GUILTY! 😥 Truthfully, this was one of my earlier videos, and I was so absorbed with the recording process that I forgot that critical step!
I just learned that today in my career lmao
Depending on the reamer/techniques , sometimes with the pen reamers, techs accidentally gouge the inside of the tube near the opening which causes imperfections in the flare face.
@@OnePointLanderI'm a rookie, shadetree plumber. I'm pretty sure this is why I'm having trouble getting my flared fittings to stop leaking. I'd appreciate a tutorial on how to do the reaming properly.
@@revbradltrue. Up to this point I’ve been speaking harshly to the end of the joint. Still leaks. Suspect it needs a proper reaming.
I was flaring pipe in the seventies, came here to remember how.
Thanks for watching! I hope it brings you some value!
Same here, I remember having flare parties with 8 or 9 couples every month in the 70s! We would all put our flares in a bowl, and then randomly pick... Wait, were they flares or....
@@JayCoh47 lol, 70s was a wierd time 🤣😅
@Alexander Wardrope yup, stuck without a glaring tool, I’ve improvised to get it done
@tomstricklin3409 , I last flared helping my Dad in the 50s, 70 years ago. but now need to once again, so the refresher was helpful. Some YTs prescribe using a torque wrench to tighten the fitying, but the cheapest one I can find is $134, so I might "wing" it, as this will probably be my one use of it.
Fantastic explaining bro, this is one of those few skills that I never really had a chance to develop. Really appreciate it!
That is very kind of you to say...Thanks so much! 🙏 I hope to release more videos that'll serve beneficial to you in the future.
I wished I had seen this video before I bought an acetylene torch so I could braze my a/c lines.
Better late than never! Brazing is actually easier, faster, and cheaper in the long-run. More tools give you more options!
If you do end up flaring, just be sure to ream the end of the pipe before you do so (which I forgot to show in the video!) 😮
Nice but I would always ream and clean the inside before doing the flare.
Nice but I would always ream and cleaning the inside before doing the flare
1.Deburr the pipe before creating the flare.
2.No hardened multi grip plier jaws on any chrome plated tools please. (As a fridgy, seeing that makes me cringe). The tee bar of the flaring yoke is used between the wings of the wing nuts of clamping dies for nipping it up tight.
3. HVAC often uses up to around 800psi, not 300.
Well said...I genuinely appreciate your passion in the matter, and I thank you for your constructive criticism.
Improper preparation of the pipe. Hard pipe needs to be annealed before flaring. Pipe needs to be reamed before flaring. Your fittings and flaring block are trashed from using pliers.
@@PlumbingsCoolyeah, I noticed this as well. For the DIY guy it's probably not a big deal but assuming that deburring was covered in the cutting video the other stuff probably isn't a problem. Otherwise it should probably be redone.
well It kept slipping on me so I kept starting over and tightens it more untill I finnaly broke the bolt I guess flaring isn't my thing.
No, I DON'T think the problem is you! If it's slipping and the tool's bolt even actually broke, then I'm guessing you have a poor-quality tool.
By the way, I never showed it in the video, but it will help to soften the pipe by preheating the end with a torch until it's red-hot, and allowing it to naturally cool. This will make the flaring process MUCH easier on you - and your tool!
@PlumbingsCool no definitely not a high quality tool and thanks for the info.
You should probably deburr it first. And 3/16 is standard in most cases for 1/2 inch pipe.
Wholeheartedly agree with you about deburring (which I forgot to demonstrate!).
3/16th is awfully close to 1/8th when eyeballing it. As long as that nut can slip past the flare, you're golden!
@@PlumbingsCool It was still a good video . I also like to put a small amount of Nylog blue on the pipe before I flare it as it makes for a better flare.
Thanks very much! Yes, I've heard of the Nylon Blue from the HVAC crowd, who all swear by it. However, not sure it's approved for plumbing (particularly potable water applications).
Thanks for the feedback!
Forgot to install the nut first… yeap.. been there, almost got me fired 😂
Lol...don't be so hard on yourself...we've all been there! It's all part of the learning curve! 👍
How you did that😂😂😂
I did the same thing yesterday. Luckily had enough slack to cut it off and do it again.
You should lightly lube flairing point
Thank you for the tip!
Dude I've been looking for a Chanel like urs for a while now.
Thanks, and welcome! I'll certainly do my best not to disappoint. Time is my biggest challenge at the moment, but stick around for some stuff I hope you'll find interesting.
It's EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to ream the pipe before flaring in order to get a good seal. The pipe in this video was not prepared. Sorry, thumbs down.
Thank you for your feedback, Sheldon. You're correct in stating that it is best practice to ream the pipe prior to flaring, which I admittedly overlooked in the heat of filming this video.
That said, I want to add that if reaming, it's important to remove only enough material to restore the full bore of the pipe; over-reaming may do more harm than good, as doing so may weaken the flare, leading to joint failure.
Thank you for watching.
@@PlumbingsCool 1111111 nku
i wish u talked about sizing...
3/8 flare connectors, is the OD of the copper 3/8.?
and are they 45 degree for RV line?
Yes, when ordering flared connections, they are typically ordered based upon the tubing's outside diameter. I can't confirm, but I'm presuming that flared connections for RV gas lines utilize the same standardized method of connection...however, be sure that any flared fittings and copper piping you use for such an application are approved for use with gas lines. Hope this helps.
Thank you sir
ආයුබෝවන් !
is refrigerant copper pipes,the smaller like quarter inch,can they be used for air compressor lines also,thanks
Hi Mario. Although I'm not a specialist in refrigeration, I would say that copper piping used for refrigeration purposes can certainly be used for air lines, provided that you do not exceed the piping's air pressure capacities...which is capable of handing at least 300PSI. Note that tre diameter of piping has no effect on PSI, although it WILL have an effect on VOLUME. You mentioned using smaller 1/4" piping, which would carry less amount at a certain PSI than a larger pipe would (and may therefore be too small to suit your needs). Hope this helps.
Great video! I am installing a mini-split in my RV and there is a great emphasis on having the proper 45 degree flare on the copper tubing; some commenters have said there is a "special" 45 degree flaring tool you need to purchase specifically for these mini-splits. But early in your video, you seemed to mention that 45 degree flares using the tool you are working with is typical, or they "mate" with the flare fitting (0:53). My question, then, is: do you need a special flaring tool to make 45 degree flares, or will the tool you demo in this video make them naturally if done correctly? Thanks.
Thanks for Yue) your kind words! 🙏
From my understanding, although all flares are typically made using 45-degree angles, some connections are double-flared, as opposed to single-flared as demonstrated in this video. I'm not an AC guy, but I think single-flare would suffice for your application, which could be manufactured using this tool. A double-flare connection has the flare rim folding in on itself. Still at a 45-degree angle, but requires a different flaring tool. If you can assess exisitng fittings/connectors on the system, you should be able to quickly determine the flare type. Also, be sure to slightly deburr the pipe prior to making your flare, which I forgot to do during the fuss of making these early videos! 🤦♂️
Hope this helps, and good luck!
@@PlumbingsCool Thanks for the information and not posing yourself as an expert "AC guy" when you don't have the experience and background in working in this specialized area. But the pro's in the mini-split field, like I mentioned before, make a big deal out of these 45 degree flares. One commenter suggested this brand: “Rothesberger” who makes a 45 degree flaring tool. I looked this brand up on Amazon and was not able to tell the difference between the tool you were demonstrating and that one (though they looked different). I'm still a bit in the dark as why they insist on these 45 degree flares if, as you might suggest, they are typical when you correctly use a regular flare tool. Again, appreciate your video and timely response to my question.
Lol...well, the way I see it is that, regardless of the tool you're using to produce a single flare, the result needs to be compatible with the flared fittings and nuts that are on the market - which (as far as I know) are spec'd to be produced at a 45-degree angle, so the cheaper tool should theoretically work. If you were in a trade or situation which required you to produce flares on a regular basis, then I'd absolutely agree to purchase the best quality tool you can afford at the time, as it becomes integral to your livelihood, efficiency or safety...but if the tool is intended for one-time or very sparse usage, then I don't see the point in spending the money if the cheaper tool will suit the task at hand.
Just my two cents!
@@PlumbingsCool Thanks. Maybe these "specialized" 45 degree flaring tools are simply an advertising gimmick if all flaring tools are manufactured to make 45 degrees.
That's my understanding; 45-degree should be the standard for flared connections. Good luck!
Good job, thanks for the effort
Thank you for watching! 🙏
Copper good clean end and jobes ok gues thankyouaftet flare ing
Thx you the best.
Thanks!...YOU'RE the best! 🙏
Excellent. Thank you so much. I am taking a Plumbing class and I truly appreciate these demonstration videos.
That's awesome! Truth is that my students are very much responsible for fueling my fire for making these videos. So if it helps out OTHER students even a bit, then that makes me that me that much more inspired to keep making them! Good luck, and hope you enjoy Plumbing school, wherever that may be! 👍
@@PlumbingsCool
Thank you, is it okay if I ask you some questions as the course progresses??
Some of concepts are a bit confusing.
This is an entire new thing for me.
Sure thing...it may even encourage me to put out more videos (time allowing)! Which city do you go to school?
@@PlumbingsCool
Simi Valley
Penn Foster program.
Ooh! California! Geographically beautiful state with amazing weather (We've got the pretty landscape, but the weather is MUCH to be desired!). Your Codes may not be identical to our Ontario/Canadian Plumbing Codes, but there is still much overlap between US and Canada (physics works the same everywhere in the world, as far as I know 😁)! The most mystifying topic I find most students struggle with is venting and sizing - and for good reason, due to all the rules involved. When you do get into the subject of venting and drainage, you may want to check out two videos I produced not too long ago, which was intended SPECIFICALLY for first-year students. It's real-world before-and-after of a century-old home I did, which takes you through tons of do's and dont's in terms of drainage and venting.
The first video takes you through the exisitng plumbing:
ua-cam.com/video/df61XD7A8lA/v-deo.html
...and the second video walks you through the corrected plumbing:
ua-cam.com/video/ry6kVUNeGSU/v-deo.html
They're not the most exciting of videos, but a lot of my students have found benefit in helping them understand venting and drainage in a real-world application.
Hope it helps and good luck!
Meanwhile, you know how to find me!
thank you ❤
My pleasure!
Thank you
You're welcome!
DAMN, If you are gonna record a video to do a demo Take the time to get the MF wrenches and put those pliers down. and What about de-burring .
Good suggestion in hindsight, although the goal was to show the flaring process on the pipe, rather than how to tighten the flare onto a fitting. But you're definitely right on the deburring...which I accidentally overlooked because I was too distracted trying to figure out how to film a video during these first early days.
I used one of those more than 10 years ago. I use a concentric one now. I don’t want to drop $430 on the cordless one.
Can't say I blame you! 😁
Thanks for the refresher. I need to flare for the first time (and probably last time) since I helped my Dad about 65 years ago (I'm 78 now). Based on other YTs , I will deburr and use a drop of Nylog. I might skip using a torque wrench, as the cheapest I could find is $134. My Dad never used. Those who do it regularly develop a feel for how much to tighten the futting, I guess. Thanks again, and cheers.
Oh wow!...thanks so much! 🙏🙏 🙏 . Yes, absolutely, wholeheartedly agree on the deburring prior to flaring. Unfortunately, in this early video, I was so focused on getting accustomed to capturing it on camera, I forgot to debur! 😔
I've heard of the Nylog stuff, which HVAC folks swear by, although I'm not too sure it's approved for potable water lines.
Thank you again so much for your generosity...humbly appreciated!
This is wrong ...
If you all times do the same flare
Flare tolls is damage more then 50 times flaring...
I'm sorry, but I'm not sure what you mean. Could you please explain? Of the many flare joints I've installed, I have one yet to leak, so your feedback would be welcomed.
They are not different THAN other fittings......they are different FROM other fittings.....see Snaith.
Did I really say that?? Thank you for the correction; grammar aficionados have long had a special place in my heart!
(But who's Snaith?? 🤔)
In any event, thanks for watching...and teaching!
Great educational video!. Now whats your take on nylog blue?
Thanks very much! 🙏
I've personally never used Nylog Blue, as it's designed for refrigeration. I'd first look into ensuring that it's formally approved for potable water systems before using it for plumbing.
But for refrigeration, I've heard many HVAC techs swear by the stuff.
This method we have been using in Iraq for about 15 years, because it is very tight❤
Agreed! Very reliable connection!
Nice.
Thanks!...only don't forget to REAM or deburr the pipe before flaring, which I forgot to show in the video!
Thanks for the Video it was helpful I am changing my house from all Electric to gas & wood Pellets for heat
Awesome, and good luck with the transition! Only be sure to REAM your tubing before flaring (which slipped my mind while making the video! 😒)
And especially because you're dealing with gas be sure to thoroughly PRESSURE TEST all your joints & connections!
Between the nut and the nipple we can put a rubber gasket and we are sure that it will not leak! Congratulations 😊
Well, that would be cool, but that sort of defeats the purpose and benefits of flaring...and poses other issues. First, you'd need a specially-shaped washer/gasket that contours and angles perfectly to the flare. Second, the rubber would corrode over time and is sensitive to heat. In the case of traditional flaring, the copper material IS the gasket, and will not corrode. Squishing the material when you tighten it will provide a seal more reliable and durable than any gasket ever could.
Only be sure to ream the pipe before flaring it, which I forgot to show in the video!
dope is himiliating nickname for it DOPE ,no its wax fuel
Lol...well that's certainly a new one for me! 🤣🤣
deburr ?
You are correct!...amidst the hubbub of filming these earlier videos, I forgot to mention the importance of deburring! Apologies! Nonethess, I hope the video still provides overall value to the viewer.
You sound just like Jordan Peterson haha love it. Thanks for lesson
LOL! I've never gotten that one before!...I'll take it, and I'll wear it as a badge of honour...I absolutely LOVE Jordan Peterson! I refer to him as my spiritual father! 🦞
Would a flare or compression fitting be best for a low pressure 1/4" I.D. oil line on a custom automotive application?
I'm honestly not sure, as it depends on your specific automotive requirements. I can tell you that flared fittings are successfully used in vehicles: I just finished replacing one of my vehicle's Bosch fuel filter and accumulator, and all connections were about 1/4" OD flared... aside from the lines conveying gasoline, they're also under a significant amount of pressure, and they connected with minimal issue.
Best to ask a licensed mechanic, just to be sure.
I work in a refinery & every time in repairing steam leaks with copper tubing. I always have a hard time putting a new compression fitting on a heated 1/2 copper tube. Any recommendations?
Hi there! Interesting question. I'm presuming that your difficulty is the result of thermal expansion causing the pipe to be too big for the compression fitting or ferrule? Just curious as to why you're using compression; to be honest, I'm not a fan of traditional compression, at least for water pressure because the joints fail too easily after minimal movement. I'm not aware of the scenario or application, but are you perhaps able to braze the jointd using couplings? The couplings might be easier to slip on, and the brazing joint would be much stronger than any compression joints. Just my two cents.
Another thing which comes to mind is whether you're reaming the pipe when you're trying to slip your compression fittings on. I'm wondering whether your cutting method is leaving a burr on the outside edge of the pipe, preventing the fitting to slip on.
I am trying to learn how to hook up a .75" ( copper tube ?) between a Harbor Freight 5 HP air compressor pump and an air tank check valve. The pressure switch is set to 135 psi maximum. Most of the units I look at seem to use an annealed soft metal tube. All of the fittings are flared and designed to be used with .75" tubing. Is it okay to use the soft copper coiled stuff for this task? I need to bend this tube as well. Is the hard copper suitable for bending?
Generally, soft annealed copper coil is typically used for for flared joints, as it's much easier to work with. In the video, I'm demonstrating with hard-drawn copper pipe, which is certainly doable, albeit more stubborn. If you have a choice, opt for the soft copper coil. If you have only access to hard-drawn copper pipe, you may want to preheat it to soften it up a bit, which render making the flare joint a whole lot easier. In either event, ensure that the pipe you're using is at least of Type "L" thickness; Type "M" is just way too thin for it to be stretched out when flaring.
As far as bending and pressure ratings is concerned: provided that you're using approved plumbing or refrigeration copper tubing, you should have no issue handling 135 PSI; Our Plumbing Code here in Ontario mandates the pressure-testing of waterpipe at a pressure up to 150 PSI...and I sometimes pressure-test my students' copper shop projects at upward of 300PSI just for giggles!
Finally, with respect to the bending hard-drawn pipe, our Codebook only specifies:
7.3.3.10.(1): Types M and DWV shall not be bent., and
7.3.3.10.(2): Bends in copper tubing of soft or bending temper shall be made with tools manufactured and sized for the purpose.
So it doesn't explicitly say that you cannot bend hard-drawn pipe, only that it must be "of bending temper". I've bent hard copper pipe several times. And although you'll need some serious elbow grease, you can do so without issue...provided that you have the proper bending tool, which is not common to come by.
In summary, If possible, try to get a hold of of some 3/4" Type "L" soft copper coil to serve your compressor project needs. But in the worst-case, hard-drawn Type L will suffice, provided that you adhere to my aforementioned points.
Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Thanks man, Good instructional. Kudos
Thank you. Appreciate your kind words!
Awesome man thank you for sharing
Thanks this video I watching videos from Bangladesh
Bangladesh!...WOW! That's way on the other side of the globe! Thank you very much for watching! 🙏
Why didn't you deburr the inside of the copper pipe before you flared it?
A valid question! The truth is that this was one of my first videos, and amidst the entire foreign process of recording videos, I slipped up on deburring the pipe!
But yes, you are absolutely correct: the pipe should be properly deburred prior to flaring. My bad, and it won't happen again!
And prepareing and deburring the tubing , to prevent cracks ?
You're not wrong about deburring ...to be honest, I forgot to demonstrate it because I was too distracted with the recording components of these early videos. 🤷
I did like that video very clear and clean will be changing front brake caliper flex hose soon and will need to know how to flare brake tube thanks good reference video
Thanks very much! 🙏. Only be sure to flare your brake lines properly. The one demonstrated in the video is for simple single-flare water lines. Some automotive flare connections may be double-flared or even bubble flared, which would require a different flaring tool. Please do double-check, as you surely don't want your brakes to fail on you due to improper connection.
con le nuove attrezzature fare una cartella ci metti 15 secondi, ormai i professionisti usano la cartellatrice elettrica con le matrici per i vari diametri e non ti sbagli mai. Non si può vedere usare la pinza per stringere l'attrezzo. Poi poco comoda questa soluzione quando lavori sul posto
Grazie per il suo commento È bellissimo sapere i metodi di lavoro da gli altri paesi - particolarmente l'Italia!
La verità è che qui in Canada quel metodo di aggiunge il rame non si usa troppo spesso nella nostra professione d'idraulico. Le attrezzature che lei descrive esistono anche da noi, però lo scopo del video è per mostrare un modo abbastanza semplice, e usando strumenti semplici e non troppo costoso. In più, anche per noi non è normale o professionale di usare le pinze per stringere gli attrezzi...volevo solo mostrare come si aggiunge il tubo.
Tante belle cose! 🇮🇹
Thank you, very good explanation!
Thank you!....only don't for get to ream the pipe before flaring, which I forgot to show in the video!
Excellent explanation - is it OK to undo/loosen a connection and then tighten it back up (so for example, to do some other work) or do you need to make a new flare? Thanks again.
Thank you very much! 🙏
Yes, you can absolutely undo them and retighten them back up again without issue. The only addition I recommend since making this early video is that you may want to debur or ream the pipe prior to making the flare. Also, if you are using hard-drawn rigid pipe (as opposed to soft annealed copper coil), it will be much easier on your tool (and you wrist!) if you first heat up the pipe with a torch and allow it to naturally cool, so as to soften up the metal's temper. You can refer to my Copper Swaging video at around the 10:30 mark, for what I'm referring to:
ua-cam.com/video/87OvD-Eohqg/v-deo.html
Thanks again for your time and supportive words!
can you flare 7/8' copper pipe? I cant find any kits.
It depends on whether you mean 7/8" outside diameter (OD) or inside diameter (ID). What plumbers call 3/4", actually measures 7/8" on the outside. The measurements on tools usually refer to OD. So if you need to flare 3/4" ID pipe, then you need to find a tool that flares 7/8" OD...which I do indeed know exist.
If your pipe is 7/8" ID (which I've never seen), then you need to find a tool that flares 1" OD.
Once you confirm your ID and OD diameters, simply do a google search, and you should be able to find an appropriately-sized tool.
Hope this helps.
When it comes to installation of a gas water heater, is the plumber responsible for installing the vent pipe in Kentucky? Had one installed and did not pass code because of vent. Now plumber wants to change to electric. Tells me HVAC is responsible for vent?
Thanks in advance.
By "vent piping", I presume you mean the gas flue venting? If so, that's a tricky one, as the rules vary from area to area. Here in Ontario, Canada, the only ones who are allowed to connect gas lines & flue piping (and commission gas appliances) are those with a separate TSSA certification - irrespective of whether they're a licensed plumber or not. However, if I correctly recall, plumbers in our province of Alberta have jurisdiction for gas and flue vent connections. Therefore, a licensed plumber in Ontario can connect gas appliances, ONLY IF they also acquired their separate TSSA certification.
I did a quick search to see if I can find an answer for you about Kentucky, but I'm not clear on whether your state mandates installation by individuals who are specifically certified for gas appliances. For what it's worth, here's some statute law I came across:
casetext.com/statute/kentucky-revised-statutes/title-19-public-safety-and-morals/chapter-234-liquefied-petroleum-gas-and-other-flammable-liquids/safety-provisions/section-234175-certification-of-equipment-installation-compliance-with-administrative-regulations-and-manufacturers-instructions-immunity-from-liability-exception
In any event, is it not possible to simply limit the plumber to the water connections and get a qualified HVAC tech run the flue vent? Unless the tank is already old (tanks only last about 8-12 years, typically), I'm guessing it'll still be a lot cheaper than outright replacing the tank (and A LOT less expensive over time than heating with electric!). Just my two cents.
By the way: KENTUCKY'S AWESOME!!! 👍
@@PlumbingsCool
Thanks my friend. This was a contract job by Lowe's. Subbed to another company. After their install of the new gas heater it does not pass code. The vent pipe wasn't right. Now the sub company says they weren't responsible for vent? We paid for the job and now the sub contractor says how about we change over to electric but you have to pay for electric ran to heater. Either way I feel I paid for a service contract that wasn't fulfilled. Now they want more money for their mistake.
The vent would be close to 25 feet . They gave me a quote which wasn't cheap when first installing heater. I paid without a discount I was supposed to get in the first place. Now it doesn't pass code. Is an electric even close to a gas heater?
I expect them to show up with a cheaper version of electric if I were to agree, but how can i be responsible for anything in this after their fail?
I'm sorry for your agony; it's extremely frustrating when people don't own up to their mistakes and try to pass the buck. Having to pay for the replacement of a water heater as a result of an installer's incompetence is beyond the scope of ridiculous. They should have at least warned you before they installed the tank so that you had an option to cancel the contract.
But given that your original agreement was with Lowe's, I would argue that the responsibility lies with THEM to correct this issue. If I properly understand your situation, Lowe's is who arranged the contractor, and therefore Lowe's should be responsible.
My advice would be to find out who's in charge and WRITE (don't just call) a strong, detailed letter/email to store or corporate management outlining the situation, including your purchase agreement and general timeline of events, and specifically seek immediate remedy or resolution for something they should have been responsible for in the first place. Given that it's Lowe's, I'm guessing they sell furnaces as well and should therefore also have access to HVAC contractors who can run proper flue venting for your gas water heater. You shouldn't have to suffer for this in any way. You might even want to suggest filing a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. Be firm and consistent with your demands for an immediate resolution, and don't allow them to brush you off.
And certainly steer clear of that plumber, who sounds like an incompetent crook, and does nothing more than give other plumbers a bad reputation.
Best of luck with your predicament.
EDIT:
One thing I should add is that you should check your contract with Lowe's to ensure that there aren't any disclaimers indicating that they are not responsible for replacing any existing material or equipment, and that any modifications to exisitng will be extra to the contract. If that is the case, you may be out of luck and will need to bear the cost of replacing the vent, as the sub company would not be responsible for it. But it's still silly to suggest that you bear the additional cost of replacing a new gas water heater with an electric one...and I'm guessing it's still a lot cheaper to run gas flue piping than replacing it with an electric water heater (both short term and long term).
Hope this helps.
@@PlumbingsCool
Thanks again. The contractor wanting to change to electric no charge to keep from dealing with the gas vent was strange. The Plumbing Inspector say this company has 3 more just like this. His advice, you paid for a complete new heater install. Their problem. Like you said everyone is trying to put the buck on me. I did talk as you figured to Lowe's who put it off on installer. A complete mess.
Thanks for your time and your informative channel.
🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Great video. I have to shorten a flared tube on a propane line for the house and bought the flaring tools but the thought of screwing it up gives me the heebe geebes, thinking I might screw it up and explain it to my wife.
Why, thank you! 🙏
With respect to your situation: Taking on your propane line connection is really dependent on your comfort level. If you do decide to flare your propane line, be sure to thoroughly soap test the joint after you pressurize the line by completely by covering it with a leak detector solution (sold at plumbing/HVAC suppliers or big box stores) or with a homemade mixture of dish soap (i.e. Palmolive) and water. You may also want to lightly ream or debur the pipe BEFORE you flare it, which will remove any burrs as a result of cutting it - and which I forgot to mention in the video (oops!). Good luck, and thanks for watching!
Thank you! Will be doing this to fix a burst pipe
Awesome! Only be sure to ream the pipe before flaring (I forgot to to show it in the video!)
Thanks for the sharing your experience. Job well done. Ok.
It is my pleasure. I have much more planned to come! Thanks so much for watching! 🙏
I'm watching because I start a new job pluming LP tanks
Awesome...hope it helps!
Am wondering how to expand the end of a copper pipe that would allow the end of another pipe of similar diameter to be inserted into the expanded pipe end for say, soldering.
Yes, there's absolutely a way to do as you've described, and it's even got a name: SWAGING! You've got me wondering whether I should produce a video on it...but until time allows me to do so, here's a brief rundown for you:
Swaging is when you take a plain-end piece of copper tubing, and you stretch out the end of it to form a female end so that it accepts a plain end piece of tubing (effectively eliminating the need for a coupling). Swaging can be carried out in a number of ways. The traditional method is to use a simple swaging tool, which is merely a machined piece of solid steel, about four inches long, which is tapered and shaped to fit easily into the inside of the tubing on one end, and is flattened on the opposite end to allow for hard striking of the tool with a sledge hammer. Striking of the swaging tool drives the conical/tapered end into the pipe, thereby expanding it...and voilà!
A few important key points to keep in mind when swaging:
1. Expand the pipe to accommodate the SAME SIZE of the pipe (i.e., you can't take 1/2" pipe and stretch it out to accept 3/4").
2. The pipe should be at least Type L copper pipe any thinner-walled (M or DWV), runs the risk of splitting it.
3. You had mentioned soldering of the joint. Although you are technically correct, the connection should consist of SILVER soldering, otherwise known as brazing, which is much stronger than traditional soft-soldering using a traditional tin alloy. And for that, I'm pleased to say that I do have a video:
ua-cam.com/video/FHQEn3o0_B0/v-deo.html
Hope the above helps, and thanks for watching!
u forget to clean the pipe befor u flare it (with sand paiper) .
Although it's very important to clean the pipe prior to soldering, there's no need to clean the pipe for flaring...more so because it's the inside of the flared pipe that makes contact with the fitting and seals.
However, I mus admit that I DID make the mistake of not demonstrating that the pipe should be reamed for a flare joint. Whoops! 🤭
Great video thanks for sharing 👍👍
Your generous comments mean so much! I'm so glad you you enjoyed it. 🙏 More to come!
Damn you fixed my mistakes before i made them.
LOL...happy to be of service. Only be sure to ream the pipe before flaring...which was MY mistake! 🤣
This k you, I was out of compression fittings and this flare tool saved me
Awesome! So glad it worked out for you!
Hey, thanks very much! Lucid and useful. Great communication.
Thank you so much...I very much appreciate your encouraging feedback! 🙏
Wow, simpler ways to flare buddy..
😮
Taken much time to explain .
what is the difference in clutch-type(rigid-type) and wing-nut type(imperial type) of a flare tool?
it says this in the manual and even has different depths for them
and i could probably use the flare fittings to install water pipes behind walls then?
I think you're referring to a ratcheting clutch-type, which releases the tension when the flare is complete and is easier to operate than the less expensive and simpler one I use in the video. I'm not sure about what's written in your manual, but both types are available in imperial measurement.
Technically, yes you should be able to to use flared connections for water pipe within concealed walls. Here in Canada we're actually allowed to bury them underground! However you will need to check with your local plumbing code laws to be sure.
Also, I'm not sure that utilizing multiple flared joints for water distribution pipes is very practical, because the connection fittings are both quite expensive and time-consuming.
You may be better off learning the classic skill of copper pipe soldering if you're installing a lot of pipe. At some point you'll need to adapt from flared to another connection type anyway, such as when your lines reach the fixtures.
I encourage you to keep an eye out on my channel, as I'm planning on filming a soldering video some time soon because people keep asking about it.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching!
@@PlumbingsCool now i think that these are actually the company names - Ridgid and Imperial, but still dont know what type they are supposed to be lol.
but maybe its still just a wing-nut type when it doesnt have somekind of clutch mechanism inside, so i would have to use the bigger depth chart with that ?
Yes, Ridgid is very likely the brand name you're referring to. Here in North America, Ridgid has long been the go-to "Porsche" of plumbing and pipe tools: They're absolutely top-notch, but you do get that quality at a steeper price! Ridgid has both ratcheted and the simpler one.
I'm guessing Imperial is another brand name. I can't remember which brand I'm using in the video, but if you expect to make only a few joints, you'll probably be just fine with a less expensive brand/type. If it's for for high-frequency, long-term usage, then definitely invest in the more quality tools (which exist from brands aside from Ridgid - namely those used by the HVAC technicians).
I'm guessing by "depth", you're referring to how far past the holding block you should place the pipe, which may vary based on the tool. With the one in the video, it sufficed for me to go just past 1/8th of an inch past the block's edge. It ma the take some experimentation with your tool (or refer to the instructions, as you are doing). The important thing is that you make your flare narrow enough so that the flare nut can slip over it, but wide enough so that the flare face adequately meets the fitting's face with enough surface area to provide an adequate seal.
Also, if you're flaring hard pipe (not soft coil) it may be helpful for you to first preheat the pipe end with a torch and allow it to naturally cool, which will soften it and make for a much easier flaring process. I show how to do this in my swaging video at around 10.5 minutes in:
ua-cam.com/video/87OvD-Eohqg/v-deo.html
And finally, it's good practice to ream/debur the pipe to remove any sharp edges prior to flaring (which I forgot to show in this video! 😣)
Hope this helps!
What tool do you need to flare a pipe so you can fit another pipe inside for soldering? I had to use end feed couplers to extend some radiator pipes and it looks all right but it would have been more discreet with one pipe going straight into the other like a 'street' fitting.
That's not flaring, my friend, but rather likely SWAGING. Here you go...hope it works out!
ua-cam.com/video/87OvD-Eohqg/v-deo.html
@@PlumbingsCool thank you
My pleasure...BTW: That's one heck ofa user name! 😂
no deburring?
Yes, you are correct! Unfortunately, that was an oversight on my part, while I was still all caught up in the hub-bub of filming during the early days of making these video.
Yes, definitely DEBUR before flaring! 👍
@@PlumbingsCool Learned a lot from your video, Thx!
Appreciate it! 🙏 That's all that matters to me!
I think you are missing the annealing process
Yes, annealing (or pre-heating) the pipe end would certainly facilitate the process, Ironically, I was never taught in school, or required to do so as part of the plumbing competitions I participated in, whenever flaring hard-drawn copper pipe. So your suggestion is certainly not a bad idea. Realistically though, most flaring applications would usually entail the usage of soft-annealed (i.e., "copper coil"), rather than hard-drawn to begin with. Thanks for your feedback!
If you add teflon tape does it cause any problems?
Good question. Theoretically, you shouldn't need to add anything if it's a good flare. Applying T-tape runs the risk of causing obstruction, specifically if some of it were to break off and end up in the system. Generally, T-tape should be limited only to outer (male) threads, and leaving the first or second thread bare, to prevent the potential for obstruction as described above.
That said, I have had those in the refrigeration industry advise that they use a sealant called Nylog Blue...however, I can't vouch for it as I've never used it - plus it's likely not approved for potable water applications.
Thank you. If I want to increase the length of these rods, it is better this method or welding is better
I presume you meant SOLDER, and not WELD, which is a completely different process, and does not usually apply to copper piping.
Generally, yes: it's much easier and less expensive to solder the pipe using a coupling to connect the two pipe pieces. Although it also depends upon the application. If you're using the pipe above-ground and it will be subject to pressures of no more than 80 PSI (550 Kpa), then soldering is fine. However, if you want to bury the pipe below ground and /or you are conveying higher pressures, then you may want to either flare or braze the pipe (otherwise known as hard-soldering or silver-soldering).
I intend to do a video on soft-soldering in the near future, as I've been getting many requests about it.
Hope that helps for now, and thank you for watching.
@@PlumbingsCool 💋💗💗
Why not make the flaring tool '1/8 inch thicker to avoid this ambiguity of leaving the pipe a bit higher than the tool surface?
Hmmm...I'm not sure how that would work, given that it needs to push the flare outward, which would be inhibited by any restrictions.
But, if you could figure that out, perhaps you'd be sitting on a multi-million idea!
@@PlumbingsCool - The concept is working in my mind, the design and prototype will follow. I'll revert when I am ready with a proof of concept,
Awesome! I encourage you to go for it, and genuinely wish you the utmost success and riches! 👍
Good video and I learned a new term... corporation fitting.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Too much talking but good explanation
Thanks!...I think. 😄
Good .👍🙏🙏🙏
Thank you! 🙏
1/2" nunca pode ser igual a 5/8", mas, sim, 4/8".
Correto. Este tubo é igual a 1/2 "(12,7 mm) DENTRO, mas mede 5/8" (15,9 mm) externamente. Nós, encanadores aqui no Canadá, nomeamos nossos tubos com base em seu diâmetro interno; os técnicos de refrigeração referem-se a ele pelo seu diâmetro externo. Obrigado por assistir!
Thank you so much for this video bro
My pleasure!...only make sure you debur the pipe before flaring, which I forgot to show in the video!
I need to flare a 14.5mm OD tube... Can i use a 5/8 flaring tool for this?
I dont see a tool for this size, what do you recommend?
Hmmm...my math tells me that a 5/8" OD flaring tool is equivalent to 15.875mm, which would too big to be able to even hold the tubing in the block. However, if you get your hands on a 9/16" OD flare, that'll equate to 14.2875mm, which will get you much closer to your target size of 14.5mm.
A quick search shows that 14mm flaring tools are available, which may be able to hold your tubing without excessively pinching it.
However, using off-size is a bit of a gamble, and you'd need to ensure that the specifications between SAE and your target flare are identical (i.e., same 45-degree manufactured flare angle)...but it MIGHT just work.
To be honest, I've never flared off-size before...but now you've got me curious!
@@PlumbingsCool Hey thanks for the reply! Its been tough trying to figure this one out... I suppose i could sand the tube down a bit 🤷🏻♂️
Not sure if you'd need to sand it down if you can get your hands on a 9/16" OD, as it's off by so little. Could you perhaps try some test flares with some scrap material before installing?
Anyway, glad to be of help (for whatever it's worth!) Good luck! 🤞
2 thumbs down. much ado about nothing
Sorry, only one thumb down per account. Take it up with UA-cam. 😝
🇮🇶You have all respect from Iraq
My enormous gratitude from Canada! Keep well, my friend!
Ok thanks tutorial .like it
Thank you so very much! 🙏
Particularily
is this hard copper pipe, or is it soft copper tubing?
The specific video uses hard-drawn copper pipe. That said, utilizing soft annealed is certainly easier and more common. One-way to facilitate flaring hard-drawn is to first heat it up, thereby changing its temper.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks
Best fittings for diesel oil pipework
I believe you, as they're very reliable connections. Ironically, we don't use them very often in the plumbing field.
But, how tight do you tighten the flare nut?
Great question. I've seen and used torque wrenches specifically made for flare nuts; I think it's somewhere around 30 ft-lbs if I'm not mistaken. The truth is however, that most plumbers don't flare often enough to justify the cost of those specialized wrenches. More importantly, we're supposed to leak-test everything before concealing our joint, so if there's an issue, we should catch it. Generally, make sure that you initially tighten the nut just snug, and finalize it by turning the nut about another quarter-turn, which will help squish the copper into acting as a seal between the nut and fitting. Again, always, always test your work for leaks. Thanks for your question, and I hope this helps!
Good information thanks bro 🙋♂️
Thank YOU for watching! 🙏
What if you are using coil copper pipe
Yes, flaring works perfectly well with copper coil (otherwise known as "soft annealed" copper), provided that you utilize a minimum thickness (referred to as "Type") of Type "L" copper. As a matter of fact, it's more likely you'd be applying flared connections to copper coil than you would hard drawn copper.
Do you need to anneal hard drawn copper for Flare connection ?
Great question! Although annealing (or using soft copper coil from the get-go) certainly makes the flaring process easier, you can flare hard-drawn copper pipe without treating it; I have my students do it all the time.
Aren't those channel lock pliers
GUILTY! 😪
The truth is that I just wanted to show the flare joint; proper tightening methods wasn't an incentive (although I suppose it should've been!)
I must confess though...even on the field, I reach for my faithful pump pliers probably way more often than my more appropriate open-end wrenches.
I didn’t know you could bury these connections, very cool!
Super super....Detailed demonstration
WOW!...thank you so very much!
What is the name of this tool, please?
This is known as a pipe flaring tool. Here's a link to Ridgid's website as an example...but there are certainly cheaper alternatives out there - especially if you only need to make an occasional flare or two:
www.ridgid.com/us/en/flaring-tools
Very good video. Close up and step by step.
Thanks so much! 🙏
thank you
thank you
Thank you for share you skills
Thank you for the kind words and I'm delighted you found value in it! All the best and happy holidays!
I'm thinking of making nozzle the same way you make flare in pipes. I'm thinking of using 3/4 pipe copper pipe and try to expand the other end to be about 5/4 diameter so what do you think ? is it possible or it will crack before reaching 5/4 ?
Hmmm....I'm not sure exactly what you mean by making the other end "5/4". If you mean to widen the 3/4" diameter pipe to a size of 1-1/4" (which is effectively 5/4 in simplified fractions), and then proceed to flare that end to mate with an 1-1/4" flared fitting, then I would strongly recommend AGAINST it.
Enlarging a pipe is formally referred to as "swaging", and our Plumbing Code here in Ontario explicitly states that swaging can only be done so to connect to pipe of the same diameter:
"7.3.3.1.(3): A copper water distribution pipe of 1 inch size or larger may be mechanically swaged to permit the joining of other copper pipe of EQUAL SIZE."
In other words, the Code only allows you to take a male copper pipe end (referred to as a "spigot"), and convert that pipe end to a female end (know as a "hub") so that you can join another male end OF THE SAME SIZE AS THE ORIGINAL PIPE (minimum 1-inch, however), thereby eliminating the need to use a coupling.
Also, you should do so using a minimum thickness of Type "L" copper pipe. Anything thinner (Type "M" or Type "DWV") does not provide enough material to allow the material to stretch out without cracking, ripping or maintaining proper strength.
If you're needing to change the actual diameter of piping, you should only do so using a proper reducing coupling and properly-sized pipe - in your case a 1-1/4" x 3/4" reducing copper pressure coupling, and a piece of nominal 1-1/4" copper pipe. If you need a male end on the 1-1/4" side (and would rather not purchase a whole length!), you can instead purchase a 1-1/4" x 3/4" reducing BUSHING, which will give you a female hub for the 3/4" side, and a male spigot on the 1-1/4" side (only provided you don't need to flare the 1-1/4" side).
Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
@@PlumbingsCool I couldn't make what I want clear so I will try to rephrase it again.
I don't what to connect two pipes with each other. I want to have pipe one end 3/4 and the other end is 1-1/4 for collage project not for water pipes. I want to use copper pipes as it's easy to be deformed to match the shape I want.
The nozzle I want to make looks a like the one in this link
rocketschnozzles.weebly.com/uploads/2/9/0/4/29045379/8739941.jpg
What I'm asking if I get 3/4 pipe and did the same what you did here to expand the other end to be 1-1/4 is it possible or will it crack before reaching 1-1/4 ?
I'm asking as I don't have this tools and will get it only to do the nozzle.
Ah, I see.
I would say that you will have issues for a few reasons. First, the flaring tool will not expand the pipe wide enough to reach 1-1/4, nor wil you achieve the shape you're looking for. As well, you may very likely stretch the pipe too thin to achieve the 1/2" increase in diameter. You can certainly experiment, but I'd recommend at least Type "K" (the thickest copper pipe), and I'd significantly heat the pipe with a blowtorch first, to change/soften the temper of the pipe.
Looking at the shape that you linked, I'm just wondering whether you can save yourself the headache by just purchasing something similar to the shape you're looking for (provided your school project parameters allow you to). I mentioned couplings & bushings in my last reply. You can pick up a 1-1/4" x 3/4" coupling or bushing in various materials which are accurate to your desired size, and closely match the aforementioned shape. Here are some examples:
Copper Reducing Coupling:
www.grainger.ca/en/product/p/WWG1VLK9?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ6PVOAs4YtYvoQV2jGGAjzV7PbXFtZKlcSyIU6RpUrUTCKdk7-1aAIaAhdwEALw_wcB&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&ef_id=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ6PVOAs4YtYvoQV2jGGAjzV7PbXFtZKlcSyIU6RpUrUTCKdk7-1aAIaAhdwEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3645!3!303439923758!!!g!325537765342!
Black Malleable Reducing Coupling:
www.google.com/search?q=1-1/4%22+x+3/4%22+black+malleable+coupling&rlz=1C1CHBF_enCA939CA939&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiRw92urfnwAhXDXc0KHZ8DAA0Q_AUoAnoECAEQBA&biw=1920&bih=937#imgrc=7X2_khoyWuATPM
PVC Reducing Coupling:
duboisag.com/ca_en/reducing-coupling-slip-936.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2NyFBhDoARIsAMtHtZ7Ru-C3Fqrfn1FTgU0byzfUJrZH6aFms9MJLv8qXdBUZYpD6DXqym0aAhvLEALw_wcB
If you're looking for any of these items, you should be able to do so by visiting any reputable plumbing supplier.
Hope this helps and good luck with your project!
@@PlumbingsCool I will give it a try. Thank you.
Thank you so much
Thank YOU! 🙏
Thank you very helpful❤
Thank you so much!!!
Very educative video
Thank you SO much! 🙏 Only be sure to REAM the pipe before flaring...which I forgot to show during that early video!
Thanks for sharing this video Sir.
My pleasure, sir. Hope you found it helpful. 🙏
good job
Great video, thanks 🙏 very helpful
I'm humbled by your kind words 🙏 and I'm delighted you found it useful. Please stay tuned... big plans ahead! Thanks for watching!