I'm two years to late but I learn how it's done. When I was 15 years old I use to help a super at a bldg I lived in Brooklyn because he had the coolest tools. Most of the time he was threading pipe in the boiler room, you just took me back in time with what you saud through out the video because it's exactly what he used to tell me. I thank you for refreshing my memories and my teacher Jose Santos bless you both❤
Thanks so much for your feedback!...your comment truly made my day! Yes, oftentimes it's about the shiny new tools which lure us. I'm actually in the early planning stage of making a plumbing hand tool-related video. Hope it serves some benefit! Thanks again!!
Thanks so much! It's no that bad, really...unless you're threading piping larger than 1-inch...which will turn out to be an ultimate and unforgettable fitness workout for your chest, arms and triceps! But if you only need to thread a few joints, or are required to thread for only a small job (such as adding or modifying branch to an existing gas or fire sprinkler line), then this may be your most cost-efficient bet - without having to worry about purchasing or lugging around a $6,000+ power threader, like the Ridgid 300. Thanks for your feedback!
I have made hundreds of threads on pipe ends. 1/8" up to 2". Had a master threaded pipe fitter to tell me," You keep a 90 or tee on the pipe vise. After making threads, try the 90 or tee on the new threads. The fitting must not turn more than 2-3 times by hand. Any more than 3 x ... and the threads were cut too far/deep ... the joint will leak. So, here is the formula..."three turns by hand...three turns with the proper sized pipe wrench...three threads left over (we can count the remaining threads..."ahead" of the fitting just tightened on with the wrench). Want to mention...can't trust the threaded ends from the factory. They are too deep. Cut them off, make new ones, then still put a 90/tee on the new threads (three turns by hand) to make sure. It's not much trouble...compared to installing the whole the new pipes up high, etc...then having to unscrew the whole thing...make new threads...then the putting it all back together ??? Out of all the threaded pipe joints I have made in industrial plants, hospital boiler rooms...not one leak.
Great tips! Fittings are also what I would always use to set and test my Ridgid 300 dies at the start of each day - and always made sure to keep one within arm's length for that purpose. The only thing I would add is to ensure that the test fitting is new, notably it's of black malleable, which is prone to stretching. The only other problem I've found is that even factory-new fittings have had inconsistent threads (even pinholes!) over the recent years - depending upon which offshore factory they were manufactured that week! Thanks for the feedback!
Thank you! LOL...olive oil???...I've gotta say as a hardcore Italian, using olive oil for pipe threading comes across as sacrilegious! Hope it wasn't extra virgin; that's like $15/litre these days! 🤣🤣 Glad it worked out! 👍
Needs must, especially if you're in the country. But no, I wouldn't abuse extra virgin oil. I'd be worried about the god's of the olive groves seeking revenge for such sacrilege 😅 Have it most days which I would have most days with salads usually. So good for you.
I just purchased a ratchet pipe threader and cutter to connect some pipe for propane. Once the pipe was cut and threads made...the fittings don't seem to want to screw on. Saw one video that was saying that manual pipe threaders and even some of the electric ones do not taper the pipe and cause the problem. Would like your opinion on this. And if you agree to this being the problem...do you have any suggestion how to remedy it? Went to Home Depot to have them cut pipe and had same problem....you could see that the threads by the manufacturer of the pipe were tapered. When Home Depot cut the threads...they weren't as far as I could tell. Trying to see if there is a taper attachment for this pipe threader----or that may be totally ridiculous to even think that. Thanks for your help and this was a nice video. Appreciate your time to put it together for us. Jesus bless.
Hmmm...I reckon something's amiss with your pipe threader. It sounds like you're in North America as I am, which means that we tradespeople in the US and Canada utilize what's referred to as American Standard or Briggs pipe thread. It's a standardized imperial system system that which maintains certain standards to ensure a proper thread. There are three primary factors, which consist of: -The correct taper -The correct pitch or Threads-per-inch (TPI) -The correct thread cut angle (60°s) If your dealing with propane pipe and fittings, you'd most certainly be requiring a tapered thread, which is what allows the pipe to tighten as it turns into the fitting, and what ultimately causes a seal. If it had no taper (referred to as a running thread, like a bolt or threaded rod), the pipe would simply keep turning until it would just keep turning until it bottomed out at the end of the thread, and certainly would not seal properly. One way to test if the cut thread has a taper is to place a straight edge (like a ruler) flat against and parallel along the pipe and have a few inches travel past the threaded pipe end so there's an overhang. You should be able to see the thread taper in and away from the straight edge as it comes to an end. You can also roughly count if your threads have the proper pitch or Thread per inch as follows (although it might be tricky because your threads may not even actually be an inch in length): -1/8": 27 TPI -1/4" and 3/8": 18 TPI -1/2" and 3/4": 14 TPI -1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2" and 2": 11-1/2 TPI -Over 2": 8 TPI Also, another problem causing your threads not to tighten is that you may be making your threads too long. As a general rule, the end of your pipe should pass the last cutting die by a distance of no more than one or two full threads. Anything beyond that last die is nothing more than a running thread. But all in all, if it's a reputable manufacturer such as #Ridgid, it's a sure bet that you dies should be tapering the pipe...regardless of whether it's electric or manual if they're designed for steel pipe. The only other thing I can think of is that you're using non-standard/metric fittings or the housing screws holding the threads are loose. Sorry I couldn't be of more help from here. Let me know how it works out!
What if the pipe I need threaded is smaller O.D than the O.D. of the pipe it is going to thread into? How do I know what size to get? By measuring the I.D. of the pipe it's going into? I would think it would need to be slightly wider?
I think I know what you mean, but for clarification, your pipe will need to thread into a FITTING, not another pipe. The most accurate way is to measure and compare the O.D. Of the other or existing pipe entering the fitting. If the O.D.'s are the same, then you' re good to go...but this value is not representative of its nominal pipe size. For example, 1/2" steel pipe measures approximately 7/8" on the outside. Although you can measure the inside diameter of a pipe to acquire its nominal pipe size, it will not necessarily be an "exact" measurement of the size due to varying wall thicknesses (schedule 40 has thinner walls than schedule 80, for example.) But regardless of inside diameter, the outside diameter MUST be identical to the connecting pipe because the female fittings are designed to accommodate that exact outside diameter; any other diameter just won't fit. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the informative video. If my pipe is underground, ie there is limited space, can the pipe still be threaded, eg by removing the handle of the pipe threader?
Unfortunately, you can not use these manual threaders without applying the handle for leverage, because there's simply too much resistance from the dies cutting into the pipe (the larger the pipe, the harder it becomes). The good news is that, because the tool is ratcheted, you don't need much handle swing to turn the head (although it will take you a while if your motion is short). As an (expensive!) alternative, they do manufacture electric "thread in place" power-drive threaders, which clamp onto the pipe while a motor turns the die head. #Ridgid is one such manufacturer, but it may be overkill for your needs: www.ridgid.com/us/en/hand-held-power-drives If you only have a thread or two to make (and a bit of wiggle room), the hand threaders may be your most economical solution. Thanks for watching, and good luck!
Thanks for your comment. The teeth on these hand threaders are actually NOT adjustable; each die assembly cuts one particular size and nothing else. What CAN happen however, is that the four screws which hold the front plate to the body can become loose over time, causing dirt and shavings to get stuck in between, thereby misaligning the four dies - leading to a poor or impossible thread. So it's important to check periodically that the screws remain tight, and perhaps even dismantle it once in a while to give it a good cleaning. Just be sure to place the dies in the correct order as indicated by the numbers on the die head and the respective dies...which would otherwise totally guarantee a bad thread. If all that fails, you may have bad or worn dies. Check particularly carefully along the dies' teeth to make sure that none have gotten chipped off (a common problem when they've been abused or under-oiled during the threading process). Thanks for watching!
@@PlumbingsCool - it’s brand new but cutting too big, I’ve opened it up and checked the numbers, it’s all assembled properly but won’t cut small enough, I’ll need to return it.
Sorry to hear that. Is it Ridgid? If it is, I'm surprised that it's defective right out of the box...that's usually when they cut the best. Hope your problem gets resolved.
Interesting. Reed's a pretty good company which has been around a long, long time. You may want to call them up directly and see if they can help you out; I've done so in the past for various reasons, and they've been pretty helpful & friendly. I must admit that I've never used their threaders, but their plastic cutters and pipe reamers are amazing...better than Ridgid's, in my opinion. Good luck!
Generally, I'm not a fan of most generic tools - unless you need it for the one occasional thread, and not for professional, everyday purposes. Many years ago, I tried to save a few bucks by buying a brand new generic clamp-in-place power threading kit for a bargain-basement price of $300, from a store we have here in Canada called Princess Auto (a nonetheless awesome place to find all kinds of crazy things). I did manage to get through number of threads...until the clamp securing the power threaded violently snapped on me mid-use and nearly took my hand off! A more professional, time-tested brand like Ridgid likely wouldn't have succumbed to that issue. I consistently tell my apprentices that your tools are your bread and butter; downtime or malfunction of your tools can cost you harshly, either financially or worse, safety-wise. I recommend always buying the best you can afford at the time. And as your profits increase, so can the calibre of your tools arsenal. You don't need to immediately buy "best of the best" unless you know that doing so will pay off in work or efficiency gained because of it. Again, this is only if you're using the tool as part of your money-making career. Rather, if you're a hobbyist or DIYer, then a generic threader may be all you need to make that one thread here and there. Note that with respect to hand threaders, check if the tool is compatible with Ridgid dies. This way, you may be able to swap out the generic ones that come with the kit with the superior Ridgid counterparts, in case you find yourself to be getting shoddy threads. Hope this helps!
A thread which tightens counterclockwise as it turns (known as a "left-hand" thread) is certainly possible, but to do so, you would need to source left-hand cutting dies and replace the exisitng right-hand dies in your hand or machine threaded with those. To actually create the left-hand thread onto the pipe, you'd need to engage and run the threader in reverse. Hope this helps!
I suppose in a pinch, WD40 would be better than nothing at all, although I would not recommend it. The pipe threading process creates a tremendous amount of heat (even manually), and I don't think WD40 is thick enough to absorb the heat and lubricate the die heads. If I had to guess a suitable emergency alternative, I'd prefer to apply high viscosity motor oil to the dies, such as 20W50 (though I've never tried), which is much thicker than WD40, and has similar consistency as standard cutting oil. If possible however, your best bet would be to pick up a litre of cutting oil from your local plumbing supplier. It's probably somewhere around $10 to $20 these days, and is MUCH cheaper than replacement cutting dies!
URGENT: You are to funny, enjoy the humor. Ok I have a real problem. Hired a man to drive a dry well into my yard, its 1 1/4 inch diameter as are the couplings. Well he messed up and stripped the threads, THEY LITERALLY appear to have been smashed flat on the stainless steal pipe which is about 4 feet of its 5 foot length driven in the ground, then he leaves the job!! I'm now in a pickle. I don't know if I as (a disabled woman with Rheumatoid arthritis and numerous bone disabilities is capable of pulling on some rachet to cut new threads so I wouldn't have to HIRE someone else which I cannot afford on disability. Then once the NEW coupling is put onto it, it must be driven the rest of the depth, along with either an additional 3 foot post, or another 5 foot post. What can I do, please? Also the threads seemed to have been larger at the end of where the threads were, I suppose for tightening it down good, so no water or air leaks. The new coupling I set onto it just to see where it would sit went all the way down the coupling to about two threads of the larger size on the pipe. Can that threading device be RENTED? Geez Louise. HELP?
I'm very sorry for your predicament, and I wish I could provide more supportive and useful assistance. Unfortunately without Inspecting the situation in person it would be very difficult to properly assess or provide a proper remedy. I'm not sure where you live, but the dies may be rentable in your area. However, you may also need a wrench to provide counterforce as you thread...not to mention the cutting oil. This would also require some significant elbow grease and dexterity. All things considered, it may be most cost-efficient and practical for you to just hire someone to repair your pipe, who already has the proper tools and know-how. I'm aware that doing so will cost money, but hiring someone may be the lesser of the evils. I wish you best of luck with remedying your issue quickly and with minimal hardship. .
Can you please elaborate? Do your mean that your pipe threads break when you reverse the dies to remove them, after you have made the thread? I'm not sure what your is issue is, but try to dismantle the die head assembly to clean them out and check that they are installed in the right order, from 1 to 4. Then make sure that the faceplate holding them all in place is snugly tightened with the four screws. Hope this helps.
Yeah, that's really strange. Oil can certainly prove a factor in ensuring we'll-cut threads, but it's not typical to get bad threads only when reversing the die head. If you went through all the other checks, then the only other thing I can guess is that you've got a defective or worn set of dies. Are they Ridgid, or another brand name? Take a close look at each cutting die to make sure that none are missing any teeth, which sometimes happens after wear and tear. Other than that, I'm not sure what else it could be. 🤔
Ah, thank you for clarifying. What you're referring to is a "Female" thread. In the plumbing field, we NEVER thread the inside of piping, as doing so would decrease the inside diameter of the pipe size when inserting the male companion. The only female threads are on fittings. With that said, I'm not sure what your purpose is or how many threads you need to make, but you may want to look into what's called a "Tap & Die" set, which allows you to make both female (Tap) and male (die) threads. Note however, that tap & die sets only produce "running" threads, which means that the threads are continuous and don't taper at an angle (such as a typical nut & bolt, or threaded rod) - whereas traditional plumbing pipe threads are tapered, , which allow the pipe to tighten as it turns into the fitting. Hope that helps.
You're not kidding! Only because you "can" thread 2" pipe using manual hand dies, doesn't mean you should! If you're threading 2" pipe on a regular basis, I'd suggest jumping onto a Ridgid 300 power vice (what I like to call "old faithful"!)
I'm two years to late but I learn how it's done. When I was 15 years old I use to help a super at a bldg I lived in Brooklyn because he had the coolest tools. Most of the time he was threading pipe in the boiler room, you just took me back in time with what you saud through out the video because it's exactly what he used to tell me. I thank you for refreshing my memories and my teacher Jose Santos bless you both❤
Thanks so much for your feedback!...your comment truly made my day! Yes, oftentimes it's about the shiny new tools which lure us.
I'm actually in the early planning stage of making a plumbing hand tool-related video. Hope it serves some benefit!
Thanks again!!
Well, i certainly won't be taking this up as a hobby any time soon..lol..i was curious how to do it and now i know.
Great presentation!
Thanks so much! It's no that bad, really...unless you're threading piping larger than 1-inch...which will turn out to be an ultimate and unforgettable fitness workout for your chest, arms and triceps!
But if you only need to thread a few joints, or are required to thread for only a small job (such as adding or modifying branch to an existing gas or fire sprinkler line), then this may be your most cost-efficient bet - without having to worry about purchasing or lugging around a $6,000+ power threader, like the Ridgid 300.
Thanks for your feedback!
I watched your invaluable video and it made my work threading pipe in a crawl space very easy! thank you !
That is so AWESOME!...knowing that you found real value for my content means the world! Thanks so much for your feedback!
I have made hundreds of threads on pipe ends. 1/8" up to 2". Had a master threaded pipe fitter to tell me," You keep a 90 or tee on the pipe vise. After making threads, try the 90 or tee on the new threads. The fitting must not turn more than 2-3 times by hand. Any more than 3 x ... and the threads were cut too far/deep ... the joint will leak.
So, here is the formula..."three turns by hand...three turns with the proper sized pipe wrench...three threads left over (we can count the remaining threads..."ahead" of the fitting just tightened on with the wrench).
Want to mention...can't trust the threaded ends from the factory. They are too deep. Cut them off, make new ones, then still put a 90/tee on the new threads (three turns by hand) to make sure. It's not much trouble...compared to installing the whole the new pipes up high, etc...then having to unscrew the whole thing...make new threads...then the putting it all back together ???
Out of all the threaded pipe joints I have made in industrial plants, hospital boiler rooms...not one leak.
Great tips! Fittings are also what I would always use to set and test my Ridgid 300 dies at the start of each day - and always made sure to keep one within arm's length for that purpose. The only thing I would add is to ensure that the test fitting is new, notably it's of black malleable, which is prone to stretching. The only other problem I've found is that even factory-new fittings have had inconsistent threads (even pinholes!) over the recent years - depending upon which offshore factory they were manufactured that week!
Thanks for the feedback!
It's fine to put the factory threads on factory fittings as long as they're both out of spec by the same amount XD
Informational and funny. Thanks for the video.
Sooo glad you enjoyed it! 🙏.
Plus, you think I'm funny??? YES! Finally someone does! Now if only my wife would agree! 😁
Thanks so much for watching!
Good. Thank you for this video
Nice pipe threading action. Pleasure to watch. I used olive oil, it's just as good.
Thank you! LOL...olive oil???...I've gotta say as a hardcore Italian, using olive oil for pipe threading comes across as sacrilegious! Hope it wasn't extra virgin; that's like $15/litre these days!
🤣🤣 Glad it worked out! 👍
Needs must, especially if you're in the country. But no, I wouldn't abuse extra virgin oil. I'd be worried about the god's of the olive groves seeking revenge for such sacrilege 😅 Have it most days which I would have most days with salads usually. So good for you.
🤣🤣🤣
I just purchased a ratchet pipe threader and cutter to connect some pipe for propane.
Once the pipe was cut and threads made...the fittings don't seem to want to screw on.
Saw one video that was saying that manual pipe threaders and even some of the electric ones do not taper the pipe and cause the problem.
Would like your opinion on this. And if you agree to this being the problem...do you have any suggestion how to remedy it?
Went to Home Depot to have them cut pipe and had same problem....you could see that the threads by the manufacturer of the pipe were tapered. When Home Depot cut the threads...they weren't as far as I could tell.
Trying to see if there is a taper attachment for this pipe threader----or that may be totally ridiculous to even think that.
Thanks for your help and this was a nice video. Appreciate your time to put it together for us. Jesus bless.
Hmmm...I reckon something's amiss with your pipe threader. It sounds like you're in North America as I am, which means that we tradespeople in the US and Canada utilize what's referred to as American Standard or Briggs pipe thread. It's a standardized imperial system system that which maintains certain standards to ensure a proper thread. There are three primary factors, which consist of:
-The correct taper
-The correct pitch or Threads-per-inch (TPI)
-The correct thread cut angle (60°s)
If your dealing with propane pipe and fittings, you'd most certainly be requiring a tapered thread, which is what allows the pipe to tighten as it turns into the fitting, and what ultimately causes a seal. If it had no taper (referred to as a running thread, like a bolt or threaded rod), the pipe would simply keep turning until it would just keep turning until it bottomed out at the end of the thread, and certainly would not seal properly.
One way to test if the cut thread has a taper is to place a straight edge (like a ruler) flat against and parallel along the pipe and have a few inches travel past the threaded pipe end so there's an overhang. You should be able to see the thread taper in and away from the straight edge as it comes to an end.
You can also roughly count if your threads have the proper pitch or Thread per inch as follows (although it might be tricky because your threads may not even actually be an inch in length):
-1/8": 27 TPI
-1/4" and 3/8": 18 TPI
-1/2" and 3/4": 14 TPI
-1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2" and 2": 11-1/2 TPI
-Over 2": 8 TPI
Also, another problem causing your threads not to tighten is that you may be making your threads too long. As a general rule, the end of your pipe should pass the last cutting die by a distance of no more than one or two full threads. Anything beyond that last die is nothing more than a running thread.
But all in all, if it's a reputable manufacturer such as #Ridgid, it's a sure bet that you dies should be tapering the pipe...regardless of whether it's electric or manual if they're designed for steel pipe. The only other thing I can think of is that you're using non-standard/metric fittings or the housing screws holding the threads are loose.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help from here. Let me know how it works out!
What if the pipe I need threaded is smaller O.D than the O.D. of the pipe it is going to thread into? How do I know what size to get?
By measuring the I.D. of the pipe it's going into? I would think it would need to be slightly wider?
I think I know what you mean, but for clarification, your pipe will need to thread into a FITTING, not another pipe. The most accurate way is to measure and compare the O.D. Of the other or existing pipe entering the fitting. If the O.D.'s are the same, then you' re good to go...but this value is not representative of its nominal pipe size. For example, 1/2" steel pipe measures approximately 7/8" on the outside. Although you can measure the inside diameter of a pipe to acquire its nominal pipe size, it will not necessarily be an "exact" measurement of the size due to varying wall thicknesses (schedule 40 has thinner walls than schedule 80, for example.) But regardless of inside diameter, the outside diameter MUST be identical to the connecting pipe because the female fittings are designed to accommodate that exact outside diameter; any other diameter just won't fit. Hope this helps, and thanks for watching!
Thanks
Thanks for the informative video. If my pipe is underground, ie there is limited space, can the pipe still be threaded, eg by removing the handle of the pipe threader?
Unfortunately, you can not use these manual threaders without applying the handle for leverage, because there's simply too much resistance from the dies cutting into the pipe (the larger the pipe, the harder it becomes). The good news is that, because the tool is ratcheted, you don't need much handle swing to turn the head (although it will take you a while if your motion is short).
As an (expensive!) alternative, they do manufacture electric "thread in place" power-drive threaders, which clamp onto the pipe while a motor turns the die head. #Ridgid is one such manufacturer, but it may be overkill for your needs:
www.ridgid.com/us/en/hand-held-power-drives
If you only have a thread or two to make (and a bit of wiggle room), the hand threaders may be your most economical solution.
Thanks for watching, and good luck!
@@PlumbingsCool Thanks for the detailed explanation & great video! Really gave me a good idea of what I need to do.
Thank you!
Delighted you found it useful!
I’ve had to adjust the 4 teeth cutters slightly in to cut properly, you didn’t speak of adjustment of the teeth.
Thanks for your comment.
The teeth on these hand threaders are actually NOT adjustable; each die assembly cuts one particular size and nothing else.
What CAN happen however, is that the four screws which hold the front plate to the body can become loose over time, causing dirt and shavings to get stuck in between, thereby misaligning the four dies - leading to a poor or impossible thread.
So it's important to check periodically that the screws remain tight, and perhaps even dismantle it once in a while to give it a good cleaning. Just be sure to place the dies in the correct order as indicated by the numbers on the die head and the respective dies...which would otherwise totally guarantee a bad thread.
If all that fails, you may have bad or worn dies. Check particularly carefully along the dies' teeth to make sure that none have gotten chipped off (a common problem when they've been abused or under-oiled during the threading process).
Thanks for watching!
@@PlumbingsCool - it’s brand new but cutting too big, I’ve opened it up and checked the numbers, it’s all assembled properly but won’t cut small enough, I’ll need to return it.
Sorry to hear that. Is it Ridgid? If it is, I'm surprised that it's defective right out of the box...that's usually when they cut the best. Hope your problem gets resolved.
@@PlumbingsCool - it’s Reed brand made in USA, third one that’s given me problems.
Interesting. Reed's a pretty good company which has been around a long, long time. You may want to call them up directly and see if they can help you out; I've done so in the past for various reasons, and they've been pretty helpful & friendly.
I must admit that I've never used their threaders, but their plastic cutters and pipe reamers are amazing...better than Ridgid's, in my opinion.
Good luck!
How do you make a flared end on male threaded pipe so a flared 3/4 inch brass nut and 3/4 inch copper pipe can join to it?
Here you go...just be sure to ream it prior to flaring, which I forgot to show in the video!
ua-cam.com/video/eOlS5TtAkCw/v-deo.html
What do you think about cheap generic threaders?
Generally, I'm not a fan of most generic tools - unless you need it for the one occasional thread, and not for professional, everyday purposes.
Many years ago, I tried to save a few bucks by buying a brand new generic clamp-in-place power threading kit for a bargain-basement price of $300, from a store we have here in Canada called Princess Auto (a nonetheless awesome place to find all kinds of crazy things). I did manage to get through number of threads...until the clamp securing the power threaded violently snapped on me mid-use and nearly took my hand off! A more professional, time-tested brand like Ridgid likely wouldn't have succumbed to that issue.
I consistently tell my apprentices that your tools are your bread and butter; downtime or malfunction of your tools can cost you harshly, either financially or worse, safety-wise. I recommend always buying the best you can afford at the time. And as your profits increase, so can the calibre of your tools arsenal. You don't need to immediately buy "best of the best" unless you know that doing so will pay off in work or efficiency gained because of it.
Again, this is only if you're using the tool as part of your money-making career. Rather, if you're a hobbyist or DIYer, then a generic threader may be all you need to make that one thread here and there. Note that with respect to hand threaders, check if the tool is compatible with Ridgid dies. This way, you may be able to swap out the generic ones that come with the kit with the superior Ridgid counterparts, in case you find yourself to be getting shoddy threads.
Hope this helps!
Don't ask 'why', but how would I cut a counter-clockwise thread on the pipe?
A thread which tightens counterclockwise as it turns (known as a "left-hand" thread) is certainly possible, but to do so, you would need to source left-hand cutting dies and replace the exisitng right-hand dies in your hand or machine threaded with those. To actually create the left-hand thread onto the pipe, you'd need to engage and run the threader in reverse.
Hope this helps!
Could I also use WD-40 instead of having to get cutting fluid?
I suppose in a pinch, WD40 would be better than nothing at all, although I would not recommend it. The pipe threading process creates a tremendous amount of heat (even manually), and I don't think WD40 is thick enough to absorb the heat and lubricate the die heads. If I had to guess a suitable emergency alternative, I'd prefer to apply high viscosity motor oil to the dies, such as 20W50 (though I've never tried), which is much thicker than WD40, and has similar consistency as standard cutting oil. If possible however, your best bet would be to pick up a litre of cutting oil from your local plumbing supplier. It's probably somewhere around $10 to $20 these days, and is MUCH cheaper than replacement cutting dies!
@@PlumbingsCool Thank you kindly sir! I'll get right on that.
👍👍
URGENT: You are to funny, enjoy the humor. Ok I have a real problem. Hired a man to drive a dry well into my yard, its 1 1/4 inch diameter as are the couplings. Well he messed up and stripped the threads, THEY LITERALLY appear to have been smashed flat on the stainless steal pipe which is about 4 feet of its 5 foot length driven in the ground, then he leaves the job!! I'm now in a pickle. I don't know if I as (a disabled woman with Rheumatoid arthritis and numerous bone disabilities is capable of pulling on some rachet to cut new threads so I wouldn't have to HIRE someone else which I cannot afford on disability. Then once the NEW coupling is put onto it, it must be driven the rest of the depth, along with either an additional 3 foot post, or another 5 foot post. What can I do, please? Also the threads seemed to have been larger at the end of where the threads were, I suppose for tightening it down good, so no water or air leaks. The new coupling I set onto it just to see where it would sit went all the way down the coupling to about two threads of the larger size on the pipe. Can that threading device be RENTED? Geez Louise. HELP?
I'm very sorry for your predicament, and I wish I could provide more supportive and useful assistance. Unfortunately without Inspecting the situation in person it would be very difficult to properly assess or provide a proper remedy. I'm not sure where you live, but the dies may be rentable in your area. However, you may also need a wrench to provide counterforce as you thread...not to mention the cutting oil. This would also require some significant elbow grease and dexterity. All things considered, it may be most cost-efficient and practical for you to just hire someone to repair your pipe, who already has the proper tools and know-how. I'm aware that doing so will cost money, but hiring someone may be the lesser of the evils. I wish you best of luck with remedying your issue quickly and with minimal hardship. .
Its best pull to dow than up, u must change the side
Absolutely! I demonstrated it this way only because of the camera's direction...otherwise you'd be watching my back!
Thanks for watching!
@@PlumbingsCool just a comentary
Great video
🙏
I keep breaking my threads in reverse, any idea why?
Can you please elaborate? Do your mean that your pipe threads break when you reverse the dies to remove them, after you have made the thread? I'm not sure what your is issue is, but try to dismantle the die head assembly to clean them out and check that they are installed in the right order, from 1 to 4. Then make sure that the faceplate holding them all in place is snugly tightened with the four screws. Hope this helps.
Yes when I go to remove th dies, I have done what you suggested a few times, maybe need more oil
Yeah, that's really strange. Oil can certainly prove a factor in ensuring we'll-cut threads, but it's not typical to get bad threads only when reversing the die head. If you went through all the other checks, then the only other thing I can guess is that you've got a defective or worn set of dies. Are they Ridgid, or another brand name? Take a close look at each cutting die to make sure that none are missing any teeth, which sometimes happens after wear and tear. Other than that, I'm not sure what else it could be. 🤔
for inner thread what?
I'm sorry, could you please clarify your question?
@@PlumbingsCool , how do you thread the inside of the pipe?
Ah, thank you for clarifying.
What you're referring to is a "Female" thread.
In the plumbing field, we NEVER thread the inside of piping, as doing so would decrease the inside diameter of the pipe size when inserting the male companion. The only female threads are on fittings.
With that said, I'm not sure what your purpose is or how many threads you need to make, but you may want to look into what's called a "Tap & Die" set, which allows you to make both female (Tap) and male (die) threads.
Note however, that tap & die sets only produce "running" threads, which means that the threads are continuous and don't taper at an angle (such as a typical nut & bolt, or threaded rod) - whereas traditional plumbing pipe threads are tapered, , which allow the pipe to tighten as it turns into the fitting.
Hope that helps.
@@PlumbingsCool , thank you!
If you’re threading 2” pipe at least have a 700 Ridgid on hand
You're not kidding! Only because you "can" thread 2" pipe using manual hand dies, doesn't mean you should! If you're threading 2" pipe on a regular basis, I'd suggest jumping onto a Ridgid 300 power vice (what I like to call "old faithful"!)
Stand on the other side and push down. Wtf.
...but then you won't get my good side! 😝
big help tnx ! 🔧🔨🔩📐📘
The pleasure is mine, thanks! 🙏 Glad you got value from it.
@@PlumbingsCool that's what I told her as I was leaving 😉😄