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ABC Electric
United Kingdom
Приєднався 28 гру 2020
NICEIC Electricians in Altrincham, Greater Manchester.
Vlogs about UK electrical installations and electrician life.
www.abcelectric.co.uk
OZEV approved EV charge point installer
Consumer unit swaps
Garden lighting schemes
Rewires - full or partial
Addition of socket outlets and lighting points
EICRs
Fault-finding and repairs to fixed wiring
Domestic and light commercial installations
#abcelectric
#electriciansinaltrincham
#sparkylife
#electricianlife
*NO TOOLS WERE HARMED IN THE MAKING OF ANY VIDEOS ON THIS CHANNEL
Vlogs about UK electrical installations and electrician life.
www.abcelectric.co.uk
OZEV approved EV charge point installer
Consumer unit swaps
Garden lighting schemes
Rewires - full or partial
Addition of socket outlets and lighting points
EICRs
Fault-finding and repairs to fixed wiring
Domestic and light commercial installations
#abcelectric
#electriciansinaltrincham
#sparkylife
#electricianlife
*NO TOOLS WERE HARMED IN THE MAKING OF ANY VIDEOS ON THIS CHANNEL
Bad "Client" Review...
In this video I have a little rant about getting a bad Google Review from a "client" that I never even did any work for!
www.abcelectric.co.uk
NICEIC registered electricians
OZEV approved EV charge point installer
Electrician in Altrincham, Greater Manchester
OZEV approved EV charge point installer
Consumer unit swaps
Full/partial rewires
Outside lighting specialist
EICRs
Addition of sockets and lighting points
#abcelectric
#electricianaltrincham
#evcharger
#electricianlife
#sparkylife
www.abcelectric.co.uk
NICEIC registered electricians
OZEV approved EV charge point installer
Electrician in Altrincham, Greater Manchester
OZEV approved EV charge point installer
Consumer unit swaps
Full/partial rewires
Outside lighting specialist
EICRs
Addition of sockets and lighting points
#abcelectric
#electricianaltrincham
#evcharger
#electricianlife
#sparkylife
Переглядів: 908
Відео
Kitchen Electrics. Horror cooker circuit, downlights, fused spurs and more
Переглядів 7 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I sort out a kitchen fitter's shocking attempt at moving a cooker outlet, reconnect the oven, add some fused spurs for plinth lighting and a hob ignition, add 8 LED downlights, fit 2 island pendants and add an extra socket outlet for a fridge freezer. www.abcelectric.co.uk NICEIC registered electricians OZEV approved EV charge point installer Electrician in Altrincham, Greater Man...
Pod Point Commissioning, DIP switch settings and WiFi connection
Переглядів 25 тис.2 роки тому
Complete run through with screen recordings of commissioning a Pod Point Solo EV charging unit on site. Topics covered include connecting Pod Point to the client's WiFi, Pod Point internal DIP switch settings and Pod Point commissioning case photographs. www.abcelectric.co.uk NICEIC registered electricians OZEV approved EV charge point installer Electrician in Altrincham, Greater Manchester OZE...
Pod Point Solo EV Charger Installation.
Переглядів 53 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I show the complete installation of a Pod Point Solo 7kW EV charging unit with a Proteus sub DB and EV Ultra cable. Full live testing is demonstrated using a Megger EVCA210 car adaptor and MFT1741 . www.abcelectric.co.uk NICEIC registered electricians OZEV approved EV charge point installer Electrician in Altrincham, Greater Manchester EV Charger Installation UK OZEV approved EV c...
Tripping RCD. Electrician Life
Переглядів 7402 роки тому
In this episode I go diving into the bowels of hell to trace the cause of a tripping RCD and restore power with nothing more than a humble cable clip. www.abcelectric.co.uk NICEIC registered electricians OZEV approved EV charge point installer Electrician in Altrincham, Greater Manchester OZEV approved EV charge point installer Consumer unit swaps Full/partial rewires Outside lighting specialis...
Tesla Wall Connector Gen 3 UK Installation
Переглядів 11 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I install a Tesla Wall Connector Gen. 3 with a Matt-E PEN protection device as required by the UK Wiring Regulations (BS7671:2018 Amendment 1:2020). www.abcelectric.co.uk NICEIC registered electricians OZEV approved EV charge point installer Electrician in Altrincham, Greater Manchester OZEV approved EV charge point installer Consumer unit swaps Full/partial rewires Outside lighti...
Pod Point Installation by OZEV approved installer
Переглядів 11 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I fit a Pod Point Solo 7 kW (32A) Type 2 Tethered EV Charger under the OZEV grant scheme. This one used EV Ultra 6mm Cat 5 cable and had a fairly tricky cable route under the floor. www.abcelectric.co.uk NICEIC registered electricians OZEV approved EV charge point installer Electrician in Altrincham, Greater Manchester OZEV approved EV charge point installer Consumer unit swaps Fu...
Everything You Need To Know Before Installation of an Electric Vehicle Charging Point
Переглядів 23 тис.2 роки тому
In this video I explain everything you need to know before getting an EV charge point installed at your home. All topics are covered including the pre-installation survey, MPAN number, quotation, Application to Connect, OZEV grant, who the DNO is, main cut-out fuse, earthing and bonding, RCDs, DC leakage, PEN protection, connector types, power ratings, remedial works and much, much more. www.ab...
Fitting an RCBO consumer unit and modernising old electric underfloor heating
Переглядів 1,2 тис.2 роки тому
Testing and tracing 1960s underfloor heating elements then fitting a new Hager RCBO consumer unit with programmable room thermostats to make the system fully functional with more control. www.abcelectric.co.uk Electricians in Altrincham #abcelectric #electriciansinaltrincham #electricunderfloorheating #sparkylife #electricianlife
Moving a light switch to the other side of a door
Переглядів 33 тис.2 роки тому
A detailed run through of moving a light switch to the other side of a door including lifting floors, chasing walls, routing cable and fitting capping etc www.abcelectric.co.uk Electricians in Altrincham, Greater Manchester #abcelectric #sparkylife #electricianlife #movelightswitch
Removing old Economy 7 dual tariff metering/switching equipment and fitting a new RCBO consumer unit
Переглядів 4,7 тис.2 роки тому
Meter cupboard madness! Stripping out old Economy 7 metering and switching equipment, fitting new Henley blocks and meter tails and installing a new Hager RCBO protected consumer unit. www.abcelectric.co.uk Electrician in Altrincham Electrician in Greater Manchester Electrician in Cheshire NICEIC accredited electrician OZEV Approved EV charge point installer Domestic and commercial electrician ...
ABC Electric - Electricians in Altrincham - Short Introduction
Переглядів 4722 роки тому
A very short introduction to ABC Electric - Electrician in Altrincham, Greater Manchester. What I do, why I decided to start a UA-cam channel and how it's going so far... Electricians in Altrincham, Greater Manchester www.abcelectric.co.uk OZEV Approved Charge Point Installer NICEIC accredited electrician #abcelectric #electricianaltrincham #sparkylife
Adding additional sockets to an existing ring final circuit
Переглядів 22 тис.3 роки тому
Adding additional socket outlets to an existing ring final circuit with horizontal cables runs where the existing wiring was not in the prescribed cable zones. www.abcelectric.co.uk NICEIC registered electricians in Altrincham, Greater Manchester OZEV approved EV charge point installer Addition of socket outlets and lighting points Consumer unit swaps Full/partial rewires Garden lighting scheme...
An Introduction to ABC Electric. Electricians in Altrincham, Greater Manchester
Переглядів 5393 роки тому
This is my first ever UA-cam video inspired by David Savery, Thomas Nagy, Artisan Electrics, Nick Bundy, CJR Electrical, John Ward and all the other great electricians out there on UA-cam. It's a short(ish) introduction to myself and a little vlog about what sort of work I do as an electrician and what I hope to do later on the channel. www.abcelectric.co.uk NICEIC registered electricians OZEV ...
What is expected price to pay for this?
Hi was the system tnc-s
It's a few years ago and I can't remember. As far as EV installs go, you pretty much have to assume it's TNC-S or PME anyway, as even if it looks TNS at the house, it'll almost certainly be PME in the road
Ohme have told me I’ll be able to have a standard install for my home charger as there’s only one cable coming into my electric box so in their minds I’m “not looped”. However, the property I’m joined onto and is closer to the road than me has 2 cables in theirs. Having searched online, I believe I am a loop off of their box/feed. I explained this to Ohme but they still claim I’m not looped and the installation will be ok. Is it only an issue for those that have two cables because it could disrupt their neighbours supply too or could I be right in thinking I’m maybe at the end of a loop out of their system and this be a problem for me? Thanks in advance!
Hi. It certainly sounds like you're the end of the loop, but the only definitive way to find out is through the DNO. The reason it's an issue is that the shared cable wasn't designed to carry the potential load to 2 properties simultaneously and adding a charger is a big addition. The DNOs are now allowing chargers to be fitted to looped supplies if load management is installed, and they will then unloop it in their own time.
@@abcelectric thank you! With our housing setup it seems the most likely that I’d be the end of a loop, so will ask/mention to the installer when they arrive. Is load management something that can be installed with any of the common EV chargers or is it only available on certain models? I would be happy with a restricted charging speed as a shorter term solution - I just don’t want anything to be unsafe!
@kingweddingmedia Most chargers can be downrated or fitted with load management. Without knowing specific details of your installation and what was quoted etc I can't comment. What I would say is that Ohme should know what they're doing. The protocols for fitting chargers are well known
@@abcelectric fab thanks for your reassurance and completely understand you can’t say for sure etc. Earned my sub! 👍
What is the purpose of DIP switch 4? Do they ignore CT clamp?
The new models don't have DIP switches, and without looking at the old version I couldn't tell you
The new models don't have DIP switches and I can't remember what it does, if anything
Thanks mate
Name and shame her on every social media platform you use so other trade people can avoid her . She will soon change her attitude when she can’t get anyone to do any work for her. And if she get John Wayne to do any electrical work and he house burns down the it’s her own ignorant fault which will cost her a hell of a lot more than what you would of charged her.
Hi I have just come across this video , and think you did a Nice job well done 👍. But I think you left the conductors a little bit too long. What I do is grab the conductors in hand in a fist and place the side of my fist flat against the edge of the box the snip the conductors against my thumb and that gives me the perfect length to dress in and enough slack for if the socket needs to be removed or replaced. Also I think you would off been better off using a rotary hammer drill with a chisel bit to cut the boxes in not a multi tool . Other than that nice bit of work mate . 👍
So I have an old ten year old charger basic connection. I’ll take it that this needs protection as well?
That's not much information to go on. If it was installed to the Regs in force at the time then it's OK. If it's being moved or reinstalled then it has to be installed to the current Regs. All Tesla chargers need external PEN protection or have to be installed as a TT configuration, which usually means fitting an earth rod. There is noone answer to such an open ended question
Thanks Gary for sharing useful information ❤
sir great vide😊 thax
Hi Gary, i didnt see an SPD in the circuit, ?
It was before Amm. 2. You'd fit one now
@abcelectric yeah noticed the date after I posted, Sorry.
For the amount of money we have to pay councils under building control I would like them to hold the documentation on what is in the building. Then everyone should be sending up to date info and you’d cut down on the possibility of accidents. Never going to happen though.
You put intumescent sealant in the back of the board but ... left the wooden meter board exposed where the cable entry in the back of the board was too large. So that defeats the purpose of a metal enclosed consumer unit.
The Regs don't actually call for any sealant for the rear of the CU. It doesn't defeat any object and is superior to the Regs. I think the reasoning is that fire and heat spread upwards and you're looking to create time to exit the property before getting engulfed by an inferno. A plastic CU on the other hand would go up in minutes. There is methodology in the Regs
Good skills, couldn't fault that install, shame the drill bit didn't just sneak behind that timber! lol
Thanks for the informative video i am just researching before doing a course am i going to need to upgrade my 1740 to the 1741+ like yours to be able to test the charge points or will my current tester suffice for now
Hard to say, but you should be fine with the 1741.
That’s kitchen butchers job
WOW Thanks Gary for the expert explained details of the installation
Love the grinder attachment definitely speeds the cleaning up after. Yr right about taking pics just covers yr own arse. I’d prove it’s dead and left for future use good info and did have a chuckle you getting cramp in both legs I know that feeling
It amazing job , which fuses box you used and where can i buy it please Thanks
The one I used on this job isn't suitable for current regs. You need an SPD and a switched neutral RCD or RCBO to comply now. Pretty standard stuff for an electrician to source.
@@abcelectricthanks,
Did you not feel the need to install an spd device which is mandatory for these and a 16mm main earth not a 10mm which doesn’t satisfy anything with 16mm tails. Sad thing is some poor customer has paid you to do this as well and it’s non compliant with the 18th edition wiring regs to amendment 2!!
Hi Ashley. It was installed prior to Amm. 2, so an SPD wasn't required. A 10mm main earth satisfies the adiabatic equation and the Regs, which you should know.
Quality explanation
Thanks 👍
will it work with out installing the CT
If it's set up properly, yes
Excellent discourse on EV install, very accurate. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
Just found your channel mate. I wouldn't worry about it. As a person from an Pakistani background, I saw the ladys name and am I not a bit surprised about what she wanted. She just wants to pay the same price to fault find whether it takes you 30 mins or 30 hours. That is why I never take on jobs from the asian community especially fault finding, because they think I'm trying to rip them off. Its a good thing you didn't do her work she would have opened up another issue and maybe caused you all sorts of problems.
Thanks, mate. I think she was just arrogant or crazy. Maybe even both 🤣
Hi, how would you wire up your additional fused box to your garage with the existing main fused box. 😊
Guve up the day hob and become a comedian, couldnt stop laughing at the cramp bit
Hi mate prob a silly question but im looking into this atm as just orderd a car, but a live in a new build property were the electric meter is on the side of the house next to were i want the charger to be installed, the fuse box is inside my house under the stairs cupboard , do you need to have a cable to the fuse box or is it just the eleci meter you need, sorry for the long winded question🤣
Generally speaking, either the consumer unit (fuse box) or incoming supply tails (from meter) are acceptable to supply an EV charger
Hi guys if anybody can give me work experience. I lived-in Manchester eared cheers
Hi Gary great video. Just getting into the game . Where do you get your pod points from
Hi Osman. Thanks. I get mine from Yesss. You can't buy Pod Points directly or from CEF.
This reminds me when the tv signals where being changed from analogue to digital. A lot of aerial fitters where making a killing installing so called digital aerials when in reality they was not required. The twist in the tale was when the analogue signal was switched off the digital signal was increased anyway. I appreciate the safety of electrical installs as I’ve been an electrician for 40 years but I fear it’s being milked to a certain degree. I’m not suggesting this chap is milking it, he as to say all things that meet present day regs.
I don't write the Regs. My responsibility is to work to them and the point of this video was to try to explain them. When you actually realise that the Regs are essentially written to prevent 2 things - fire and death under fault conditions - then they make a lot more sense. As technology advances the Regs get more complicated. It's evolution and progress. What's annoying is people thinking that they're there to make money, which couldn't be further from the truth. They're there to save money and to save lives. There's zero analogy to TV transmission protocols.
What CT clamp do you recommend for PodPoint installation? Is there a specific one or any generic CT clamp can do the job?
The CT clamp comes with the Pod Point in the box. Some manufacturers make you buy it separately, but I always buy their associated model because I don't want compatibility issues and they're all about £15-20. They're probably all much of a muchness, but why take the risk?
Bla, Bla, Bla , I give up its too much bother. I'll stick to granny charger.
You covered PEN protection but didn't talk about what now seems to be a requirement to fit a protective earth rod. My question is - if you do fit an external earth rod (and check it meets requirements), does this mean you no longer need to have any other form of protection against PEN problems that stem from the incoming mains connection and bonding of the earth and neutral outside your house ? thanks
PEN protection usurps the need for an earth rod and all chargers sold for the UK market incorporate PEN protection. Tesla Wall Connector is the only major charger I know without it. An earth rod is only required if you haven’t got PEN protection. In that very unusual case, you would basically make the supply to the charger TT, so that loss of the N conductor still leaves an earth path. You then have to be very careful with bonding in the 10m equipotential zone to avoid introducing a potential difference under fault conditions. Also, in urban areas, fitting an earth rod is not a clever idea as you could easily hit gas, comms, power or anything else, even if you could actually drive one in. Even if you did, everyone around is probably on TN-C-S, so unless the property is detached and a long way from any neighbours, you're opening up another can of worms regarding equipotential zones. There is no requirement in the Regs to fit an earth rod, and given the above, why would you even bother? It's cheaper and safer to fit the included PEN protection or buy/install a Matt-E or Garo PEN fault device in the exceptional case that the charger hasn't got it.
Really great video - thx for making the whole process so clear with some real world info based on your experience….👍
You're welcome Phil 👍
I have a 7 kw pod pointed fitted recently ,on my vehicle app it shows over 5 hour charge 20 miles per hour and on the app output 6 kw from the charger , first time for me to charge the car , pod point told me when purchasing I should receive 30 mile per hour charge
This type of question drives me crazy. It's information that's freely available almost everywhere online and should also be communicated by car and charger manufacturers. Any 7kW home car charger is theoretically capable of charging at nominally 30 miles/hour under perfect conditions. These conditions rarely exist. The charger ramps down its output when other loads are on in the house to prevent blowing the main fuse. The car modulates the charger input to prevent damage to the battery and to maximise battery life (just like a phone does). The car's AC/DC converter has a part to play. Temperature has a part. Supply characteristics and power factor might play a part. There are loads of reasons why you might not achieve 30 miles per hour charging over a charging cycle. It's just the nature of the beast. At least give it a few goes under various conditions day and night to get a truer representation. If you want or need to charge a car from 0-100% in less than 10-12 hours, then my advice is to go to a fast charger. Otherwise, accept that unless you've got 100% perfect conditions, it will most probably vary from day to day.
@@abcelectric thanks for the reply , like Bernard bresslaw used to say , i only asked
Great video. I have an overhead supply and it’s looped to two other houses. I don’t cook on electric and don’t have an electric shower, so nothing pulling 7 kW of power! I have phoned my power supplier and they said it shouldn’t be an issue and can probably just need a fuse upgrade and maybe A power limiter fitted. What I was wondering is, is it easier to un- loop an overhead supply? As I can’t see my neighbour being to happy to have her house pulled to bits! Any help or advice about this would be much appreciated. And I’m sure there are a lot more people that would like to know about the overhead supply being un-looped as there are No Videos about this subject to be found on UA-cam or anywhere else so I’m sure a video about this would be very much appreciated. Kind regards.
Hi. Thanks for the comments. I have no idea about unlooping an overhead supply. However, an EV installer would submit an LCT application form to the DNO if you're going to have an EVCP fitted. I can't see that the DNO's responsibility would be any different, so if you needed unlooping, they'd have to do it regardless. It's part of the ENA regulations. As regards making a video on it, there's no call for it. It's not an electrician's job to unloop a supply and we can't do it. The supply to a property is solely the responsibility of the DNO in that area. The fact that I discuss unlooping doesn’t change. In my area they're all underground supplies as it's very urban, but the same principles would still apply to overhead lines.
@@abcelectric Hi, thanks for the reply. I was just wondering if it was a less messy job unloosing an overhead supply than one that was underground? Not sure if the neighbours would be over happy! Anyway, I called my DNO after looking at videos and the lady I was talking to said she would get the people that deal with ev chargers and unloosing to call me and they did. They told me a fuse upgrade would be sufficient and they have thousands of homes like this.. I don’t cook on electric and I don’t have an electric shower or anything else that pulls lots of power so I’m hope it’ll be ok. I guess I’ll just have to get someone to come out and see! Thanks again for the reply. Much appreciated.
Sounds like you should be OK then. Regarding "unlooping", I would think modifying an overhead supply would be far less invasive for any neighbours than digging up their drives/gardens. Either way, they can't say no, and the DNOs do an excellent job at reinstatement.
@@abcelectric Hi. Yes I thought it would be easier with it being overhead. As for the neighbours not being able to say no, well I didn’t know that! Not that I would want to be at loggerheads with my neighbours! Thanks again for the reply and your help. Keep up the good work with your videos, always people out there looking for help. Kind regards.
Hi i just got installed the three phase one 22kw and i can get 6.7Kw only , do you know what could be the problem? Usually when charging at 22kw stations i can get 11kw every time, so no issue with the car !
22kW on a domestic supply? Not possible unless you have 3-phase. If you have got a 3-phase supply, or it's not domestic, then it's either been incorrectly commissioned or the load management is doing its job. 6.7kW is pretty close to the maximum for a domestic installation. If you want to test its maximum, turn off EVERYTHING else, (or at least don't use anything electrical like ovens, hobs, showers etc), and then see what its output is. I can't diagnose specific output issues or faults with a few words description, but the above is a starting point.
One of my dislikes is not leaving enough slack wiring for when need to replace switches.
Hi, great videos and very helpful. .Getting a Pod Point Solo 3 installed indoors within my garage for a hybrid car in the next week or so.. Electrician has recommended installing a Proteus 40a ev metal clad distribution board with pme fault detection (~£170). Is having PME overkill or even needed?. Have an existing metal clad board with RCBOs and a spare slot. Was wondering why the that cannot be used with a Proteus B32 TYPE B. Tails were upgraded last year as have 3 distribution boards already (2 plastic), 100A main breaker.
Hi Deepak. PME fault protection (more commonly known as PEN or O-PEN protection) is required for PME (TN-C-S) supplies. This is because the Earth and Neutral (PEN conductor) is combined in the supply cable, and under certain fault conditions, the N & E could float to dangerously high potentials. Due to TN-S supplies gradually being replaced by the DNOs or being connected to TN-C-S upstream, it's also required to assume that PEN protection is needed on TN-S supplies as well. Now, here's the thing. Nearly every charger sold for the UK market incorporates PEN protection as standard. The only one I know that doesn't is the Tesla Wall Connector. So, fitting PEN protection upstream of a Pod Point, Zappi, Ohme Pro, Pulsar Max, Hypervolt, etc, is a complete waste of time and money. Next issue is that according to latest regs you really need a Type 2 SPD fitting and the charger must be protected by a DP Type A 30mA RCD, or an RCBO of the same nature that disconnects the Neutral under a fault condition. Only a few manufacturers make a switched neutral RCBO, so having an RCBO board may not be ideal. PEN protection and DP RCD/RCBO protection are 2 separate things. Finally, if there's an upstream DP RCD of the correct type with only 1 charger connected, then you'd just need an OCPD, so yes, under those conditions a 32A B curve MCB would suffice. Remember that the OCPD is rated for the cable, not the connected device. It's not that difficult, really. In layman's terms you need to select cable size to suit the device current and installed voltage drop, then fit an OCPD rated to protect the cable/device from fire or injury from overheating and short circuit, then 30mA Type A Additional Protection to protect life, then PEN protection to protect life, then SPD protection to prevent damage and any consequences from overvoltages. Last thing, especially as it's going in a garage, is to make sure that all required services and any extraneous conductive parts are equipotentially bonded, so there's no possibility of a simultaneous touch potential. Anyone that understands the Regs and EVCPs can figure this out quite easily. I hope that clarifies
Brilliant Gary, thanks for posting. Cleared up a load of points for me all in one go. Cheers.
Glad it helped Nigel. Cheers 👍
You did not show how to chase the wall
Which part of marking walls with lines, running an angle grinder down them and knocking out the middle bit didn't you understand? That's chasing walls. Also, as per my previous reply to you about using "jargon", this is a Vlog channel about electrical work. It is not, and never will be, a channel showing DIYers how to do their own electrical installations. Unless you are fully conversant with BS7671 as a bare minimum and a qualified and certified electrician, attempting ANY electrical work is at best stupid, and at worst could result in fire, injury, death and/or a long stretch of incarceration.
Try not to use jargon . " No grommet in the box " What does that mean ?
It's not jargon to anyone vaguely familiar with electrical installations. Look up the word grommet, but as a heads up it's basically a rubber washer. A box is a backbox - the box shaped thing that an accessory (socket, switch etc) screws to. This is not a "How to DIY your electrics" video. It's a Vlog of an electrician at work.
No offence but if your gonna try electrics and don't know what a grommet is I'd say get the professionals in
it means, get an electrician to do the work for you
I have a Pod Point SL 3261 that is rated at 32A, but my is doing no more than 14A. How can I set it to 20A, or any other settings? This model does not have DIP switches.
Hi Mladen. I don't like these types of questions because I don't know your installation parameters and there may well be a very good reason that your Pod Point is limited, such as maximum demand, main cut-out rating, or numerous other reasons, and ignoring these would be potentially dangerous. The first port of call is therefore to contact your installer directly and take it up with them. After that, I suggest you contact Pod Point directly, and if the installation was correctly notified, they should have the relevant site information to enable them to increase your output with an over the air update.
@@abcelectric Thank you quick answer. Car that is using it is my Renault Zoe imported from Norway. It came with Pod Point and Isolation transformer (as Norway has specific ground connection). Here it does not need isolation transformer. Probably not to overload the transformer, it is limited to 13A. House it is in has 50A servise, and garage has 3x4mm cable with 25A fuse. So I wanted to set to 20A, to speed up the charging process. I contacted Pod Point UK and Norway, but they did not reply.
Hi Mladen. That is not a great setup and I don't know where (or if) the CT clamp is connected. You still need to contact your installer or Pod Point by phone or email to get an over the air update. If it's not connected to a WiFi network then you can't change it anyway. If it is connected, you can access the settings through 192.168.1.101, but with that poor garage setup, you shouldn't really have anything other than a 16A radial socket circuit and a 6A lighting circuit on it. It's just not suitable for an EVCP other than a granny charger, and you and your dad should know that
@@abcelectric Thank you, again. We did 3 phase mod - when EVSE goes to active state, it turns on L1 and N. That signal is routed to 20A 2 pole contactor that turns on L2 and L3. Cars sees normal 3 phase supply and it takes 9kW (we have measured 13.4A with current clamp at each phase) We put RCD for protection and 3 phase 16A before the EVSE. Here 3 phase is the norm, and most homes have 3 phase 25A service. Location is Serbia.
@@Mladjasmilic 😂 And from the information you provided previously all I could deduce was a 1-ph supply in the UK. I have no idea about the regulations in Norway or Serbia, but it still doesn't add up that you've got a 3-core 4mm supplying 3-phase. Where's the Neutral and Earth in that? Surely you need at least 4 cores even with a balanced neutral, or are you pulling earth from a TT system? Look Mladen, I don't know your setup enough and I don't know the regs in Serbia. I fit 7kW 1-ph domestic models to UK Regs. If you've got a 3-ph 22 kW version then why all the skulduggery with a contactor and where are your N and E connections? Why not just wire it as L1, L2, L3, (N) & E straight in? Set up the CT clamps to limit the phases to 16-20A or whatever you need to do. From the current readings you've given, are you also aware that the AC-DC converters in a lot of vehicles won't allow charging above about 11kW total anyway? You could supply it directly from a substation and the car wouldn't pull more than about 16A per phase anyway. You'd need to go DC to get more than 11kW into a typical car. Check the IP access protocol for the model you've got and you can get into settings over WiFi or a temporary hotspot. Just type 192.168.1.101 (normally anyway) into your connected browser window and you should get to all the Pod Point installer configurable settings. Check your vehicle can work with an AC input over 9kW, but I would guess you're maxing out the AC-DC converter if you can't get a reading over 13A. After that, I can't help anymore without being in Serbia!
With such lead times DIY can be done in one evening for the fraction of cost.
Which equates to a fraction of the safety with a huge dose of stupidity, but you've obviously not watched through or understood. Long lead times are where the infrastructure needs upgrading, and no DIYer is ever going to dig up the road and fit a new 35 SNE/CNE cable with live jointing. As for charge point lead times , they're pretty much off the shelf, and the lead time to fit is so that the installer can do the pre-installation survey, quotation, notification paperwork where necessary, and book the job into their busy schedule. It'll then be fitted to BS7671 and won't cause a fire or kill anyone. You point me to a DIYer who would quite easily be able to do all that in an evening at half the price. 🙄 🤔
@@abcelectric Absolutely agree with that. The comment was mainly to appreciate your work and make your video more visible to others, there was no attempt to encourage doing stupid DIY things without appropriate knowledge. Thank you for your generous reply.
A bit of reverse psychology eh? Thanks for that then Volodymyr. That's given me a little chuckle 😀
Good video very informative I’m guessing Pod Point has both things needed that you mentioned this is the one we are looking at getting? Thanks
Pop Point has PEN protection and 6mA RDC-DD built in. It needs an external 30mA Type A RCD with 32A Overcurrent protection
Hi Gary Nice video.😢 Why no spd included in the install?
Hi Alan. Purely for cost, because they're not mandatory. This video was prior to Amm. 2, but they're still not mandatory even now on domestic installations. I don't think SPDs are even mentioned in the EV Charging Equipment Installations Guide 4th Edition, but I'm not 100% on that. More recently, if I'm fitting a new DB I generally include an SPD, but to reiterate, they aren't mandatory in BS7671
Nice install! You didn’t show us the nice fella who pulled the main fuse for you?
🤣👍
Can I put a spur on my cooker socket ,the spur is for my cooker hood.
It's certainly not best practice, but if you follow the Regs on distance, cable size and OCPD etc you could. I'm not quoting what those are because if you're an electrician you'll already know
How do you connect it to a hidden WiFi network? There's no option and you can only seem to Connect to open networks
Not sure what you mean by "hidden", but it's just like any other WiFi device. You connect to the temporary Pod Point Network, choose the required network and type in the password. See my Pod Point commissioning and WiFi video for more information
@@abcelectric hidden WiFi are those that do not broadcast SSIDs Have you done that before?
No. Surely you'd have to temporarily "unhide" it then? The issue is at the WiFi end, not the Pod Point end. Of course the PP won't see it if it's hidden. This isn't a PP connectivity question - it's a WiFi protocol question. Bypass the hidden SSID at source so the PP can find it, connect, then rehide it. Check the manual for the hidden WiFi device.
@@abcelectric nope, I did that. Broadcast, join, then hide but it loses connection after you hide it. If you have the section that details how to do this, can you send the link ? Been trying for a few days with no luck
I'm replying from experience. The manuals are freely available from Pod Point's website, but I know they don't cover this scenario. I think you'll have to contact Pod Point directly and ask them.
is the energy clamp necessary or will the charger work without
As far as I'm aware the CT clamp needs to be fitted for the unit to work properly. I believe Pod Point can bypass it over WiFi if necessary, however it's an integral safety device to prevent overload of the main cut-out. I'd suggest contacting Pod Point directly to ask them