Відео

It's a few years ago and I can't remember. As far as EV installs go, you pretty much have to assume it's TNC-S or PME anyway, as even if it looks TNS at the house, it'll almost certainly be PME in the road

Hi. It certainly sounds like you're the end of the loop, but the only definitive way to find out is through the DNO. The reason it's an issue is that the shared cable wasn't designed to carry the potential load to 2 properties simultaneously and adding a charger is a big addition. The DNOs are now allowing chargers to be fitted to looped supplies if load management is installed, and they will then unloop it in their own time.

@@abcelectric thank you! With our housing setup it seems the most likely that I’d be the end of a loop, so will ask/mention to the installer when they arrive. Is load management something that can be installed with any of the common EV chargers or is it only available on certain models? I would be happy with a restricted charging speed as a shorter term solution - I just don’t want anything to be unsafe!

@kingweddingmedia Most chargers can be downrated or fitted with load management. Without knowing specific details of your installation and what was quoted etc I can't comment. What I would say is that Ohme should know what they're doing. The protocols for fitting chargers are well known

@@abcelectric fab thanks for your reassurance and completely understand you can’t say for sure etc. Earned my sub! 👍

The new models don't have DIP switches, and without looking at the old version I couldn't tell you

The new models don't have DIP switches and I can't remember what it does, if anything

That's not much information to go on. If it was installed to the Regs in force at the time then it's OK. If it's being moved or reinstalled then it has to be installed to the current Regs. All Tesla chargers need external PEN protection or have to be installed as a TT configuration, which usually means fitting an earth rod. There is noone answer to such an open ended question

It was before Amm. 2. You'd fit one now

@abcelectric yeah noticed the date after I posted, Sorry.

The Regs don't actually call for any sealant for the rear of the CU. It doesn't defeat any object and is superior to the Regs. I think the reasoning is that fire and heat spread upwards and you're looking to create time to exit the property before getting engulfed by an inferno. A plastic CU on the other hand would go up in minutes. There is methodology in the Regs

Hard to say, but you should be fine with the 1741.

The one I used on this job isn't suitable for current regs. You need an SPD and a switched neutral RCD or RCBO to comply now. Pretty standard stuff for an electrician to source.

@@abcelectricthanks,

Hi Ashley. It was installed prior to Amm. 2, so an SPD wasn't required. A 10mm main earth satisfies the adiabatic equation and the Regs, which you should know.

Thanks 👍

If it's set up properly, yes

Thanks

Thanks, mate. I think she was just arrogant or crazy. Maybe even both 🤣

Generally speaking, either the consumer unit (fuse box) or incoming supply tails (from meter) are acceptable to supply an EV charger

Hi Osman. Thanks. I get mine from Yesss. You can't buy Pod Points directly or from CEF.

I don't write the Regs. My responsibility is to work to them and the point of this video was to try to explain them. When you actually realise that the Regs are essentially written to prevent 2 things - fire and death under fault conditions - then they make a lot more sense. As technology advances the Regs get more complicated. It's evolution and progress. What's annoying is people thinking that they're there to make money, which couldn't be further from the truth. They're there to save money and to save lives. There's zero analogy to TV transmission protocols.

The CT clamp comes with the Pod Point in the box. Some manufacturers make you buy it separately, but I always buy their associated model because I don't want compatibility issues and they're all about £15-20. They're probably all much of a muchness, but why take the risk?

PEN protection usurps the need for an earth rod and all chargers sold for the UK market incorporate PEN protection. Tesla Wall Connector is the only major charger I know without it. An earth rod is only required if you haven’t got PEN protection. In that very unusual case, you would basically make the supply to the charger TT, so that loss of the N conductor still leaves an earth path. You then have to be very careful with bonding in the 10m equipotential zone to avoid introducing a potential difference under fault conditions. Also, in urban areas, fitting an earth rod is not a clever idea as you could easily hit gas, comms, power or anything else, even if you could actually drive one in. Even if you did, everyone around is probably on TN-C-S, so unless the property is detached and a long way from any neighbours, you're opening up another can of worms regarding equipotential zones. There is no requirement in the Regs to fit an earth rod, and given the above, why would you even bother? It's cheaper and safer to fit the included PEN protection or buy/install a Matt-E or Garo PEN fault device in the exceptional case that the charger hasn't got it.

You're welcome Phil 👍

This type of question drives me crazy. It's information that's freely available almost everywhere online and should also be communicated by car and charger manufacturers. Any 7kW home car charger is theoretically capable of charging at nominally 30 miles/hour under perfect conditions. These conditions rarely exist. The charger ramps down its output when other loads are on in the house to prevent blowing the main fuse. The car modulates the charger input to prevent damage to the battery and to maximise battery life (just like a phone does). The car's AC/DC converter has a part to play. Temperature has a part. Supply characteristics and power factor might play a part. There are loads of reasons why you might not achieve 30 miles per hour charging over a charging cycle. It's just the nature of the beast. At least give it a few goes under various conditions day and night to get a truer representation. If you want or need to charge a car from 0-100% in less than 10-12 hours, then my advice is to go to a fast charger. Otherwise, accept that unless you've got 100% perfect conditions, it will most probably vary from day to day.

@@abcelectric thanks for the reply , like Bernard bresslaw used to say , i only asked

Hi. Thanks for the comments. I have no idea about unlooping an overhead supply. However, an EV installer would submit an LCT application form to the DNO if you're going to have an EVCP fitted. I can't see that the DNO's responsibility would be any different, so if you needed unlooping, they'd have to do it regardless. It's part of the ENA regulations. As regards making a video on it, there's no call for it. It's not an electrician's job to unloop a supply and we can't do it. The supply to a property is solely the responsibility of the DNO in that area. The fact that I discuss unlooping doesn’t change. In my area they're all underground supplies as it's very urban, but the same principles would still apply to overhead lines.

@@abcelectric Hi, thanks for the reply. I was just wondering if it was a less messy job unloosing an overhead supply than one that was underground? Not sure if the neighbours would be over happy! Anyway, I called my DNO after looking at videos and the lady I was talking to said she would get the people that deal with ev chargers and unloosing to call me and they did. They told me a fuse upgrade would be sufficient and they have thousands of homes like this.. I don’t cook on electric and I don’t have an electric shower or anything else that pulls lots of power so I’m hope it’ll be ok. I guess I’ll just have to get someone to come out and see! Thanks again for the reply. Much appreciated.

Sounds like you should be OK then. Regarding "unlooping", I would think modifying an overhead supply would be far less invasive for any neighbours than digging up their drives/gardens. Either way, they can't say no, and the DNOs do an excellent job at reinstatement.

@@abcelectric Hi. Yes I thought it would be easier with it being overhead. As for the neighbours not being able to say no, well I didn’t know that! Not that I would want to be at loggerheads with my neighbours! Thanks again for the reply and your help. Keep up the good work with your videos, always people out there looking for help. Kind regards.

22kW on a domestic supply? Not possible unless you have 3-phase. If you have got a 3-phase supply, or it's not domestic, then it's either been incorrectly commissioned or the load management is doing its job. 6.7kW is pretty close to the maximum for a domestic installation. If you want to test its maximum, turn off EVERYTHING else, (or at least don't use anything electrical like ovens, hobs, showers etc), and then see what its output is. I can't diagnose specific output issues or faults with a few words description, but the above is a starting point.

Hi Deepak. PME fault protection (more commonly known as PEN or O-PEN protection) is required for PME (TN-C-S) supplies. This is because the Earth and Neutral (PEN conductor) is combined in the supply cable, and under certain fault conditions, the N & E could float to dangerously high potentials. Due to TN-S supplies gradually being replaced by the DNOs or being connected to TN-C-S upstream, it's also required to assume that PEN protection is needed on TN-S supplies as well. Now, here's the thing. Nearly every charger sold for the UK market incorporates PEN protection as standard. The only one I know that doesn't is the Tesla Wall Connector. So, fitting PEN protection upstream of a Pod Point, Zappi, Ohme Pro, Pulsar Max, Hypervolt, etc, is a complete waste of time and money. Next issue is that according to latest regs you really need a Type 2 SPD fitting and the charger must be protected by a DP Type A 30mA RCD, or an RCBO of the same nature that disconnects the Neutral under a fault condition. Only a few manufacturers make a switched neutral RCBO, so having an RCBO board may not be ideal. PEN protection and DP RCD/RCBO protection are 2 separate things. Finally, if there's an upstream DP RCD of the correct type with only 1 charger connected, then you'd just need an OCPD, so yes, under those conditions a 32A B curve MCB would suffice. Remember that the OCPD is rated for the cable, not the connected device. It's not that difficult, really. In layman's terms you need to select cable size to suit the device current and installed voltage drop, then fit an OCPD rated to protect the cable/device from fire or injury from overheating and short circuit, then 30mA Type A Additional Protection to protect life, then PEN protection to protect life, then SPD protection to prevent damage and any consequences from overvoltages. Last thing, especially as it's going in a garage, is to make sure that all required services and any extraneous conductive parts are equipotentially bonded, so there's no possibility of a simultaneous touch potential. Anyone that understands the Regs and EVCPs can figure this out quite easily. I hope that clarifies

Glad it helped Nigel. Cheers 👍

Which part of marking walls with lines, running an angle grinder down them and knocking out the middle bit didn't you understand? That's chasing walls. Also, as per my previous reply to you about using "jargon", this is a Vlog channel about electrical work. It is not, and never will be, a channel showing DIYers how to do their own electrical installations. Unless you are fully conversant with BS7671 as a bare minimum and a qualified and certified electrician, attempting ANY electrical work is at best stupid, and at worst could result in fire, injury, death and/or a long stretch of incarceration.

It's not jargon to anyone vaguely familiar with electrical installations. Look up the word grommet, but as a heads up it's basically a rubber washer. A box is a backbox - the box shaped thing that an accessory (socket, switch etc) screws to. This is not a "How to DIY your electrics" video. It's a Vlog of an electrician at work.

No offence but if your gonna try electrics and don't know what a grommet is I'd say get the professionals in

it means, get an electrician to do the work for you

Hi Mladen. I don't like these types of questions because I don't know your installation parameters and there may well be a very good reason that your Pod Point is limited, such as maximum demand, main cut-out rating, or numerous other reasons, and ignoring these would be potentially dangerous. The first port of call is therefore to contact your installer directly and take it up with them. After that, I suggest you contact Pod Point directly, and if the installation was correctly notified, they should have the relevant site information to enable them to increase your output with an over the air update.

@@abcelectric Thank you quick answer. Car that is using it is my Renault Zoe imported from Norway. It came with Pod Point and Isolation transformer (as Norway has specific ground connection). Here it does not need isolation transformer. Probably not to overload the transformer, it is limited to 13A. House it is in has 50A servise, and garage has 3x4mm cable with 25A fuse. So I wanted to set to 20A, to speed up the charging process. I contacted Pod Point UK and Norway, but they did not reply.

Hi Mladen. That is not a great setup and I don't know where (or if) the CT clamp is connected. You still need to contact your installer or Pod Point by phone or email to get an over the air update. If it's not connected to a WiFi network then you can't change it anyway. If it is connected, you can access the settings through 192.168.1.101, but with that poor garage setup, you shouldn't really have anything other than a 16A radial socket circuit and a 6A lighting circuit on it. It's just not suitable for an EVCP other than a granny charger, and you and your dad should know that

@@abcelectric Thank you, again. We did 3 phase mod - when EVSE goes to active state, it turns on L1 and N. That signal is routed to 20A 2 pole contactor that turns on L2 and L3. Cars sees normal 3 phase supply and it takes 9kW (we have measured 13.4A with current clamp at each phase) We put RCD for protection and 3 phase 16A before the EVSE. Here 3 phase is the norm, and most homes have 3 phase 25A service. Location is Serbia.

@@Mladjasmilic 😂 And from the information you provided previously all I could deduce was a 1-ph supply in the UK. I have no idea about the regulations in Norway or Serbia, but it still doesn't add up that you've got a 3-core 4mm supplying 3-phase. Where's the Neutral and Earth in that? Surely you need at least 4 cores even with a balanced neutral, or are you pulling earth from a TT system? Look Mladen, I don't know your setup enough and I don't know the regs in Serbia. I fit 7kW 1-ph domestic models to UK Regs. If you've got a 3-ph 22 kW version then why all the skulduggery with a contactor and where are your N and E connections? Why not just wire it as L1, L2, L3, (N) & E straight in? Set up the CT clamps to limit the phases to 16-20A or whatever you need to do. From the current readings you've given, are you also aware that the AC-DC converters in a lot of vehicles won't allow charging above about 11kW total anyway? You could supply it directly from a substation and the car wouldn't pull more than about 16A per phase anyway. You'd need to go DC to get more than 11kW into a typical car. Check the IP access protocol for the model you've got and you can get into settings over WiFi or a temporary hotspot. Just type 192.168.1.101 (normally anyway) into your connected browser window and you should get to all the Pod Point installer configurable settings. Check your vehicle can work with an AC input over 9kW, but I would guess you're maxing out the AC-DC converter if you can't get a reading over 13A. After that, I can't help anymore without being in Serbia!

Which equates to a fraction of the safety with a huge dose of stupidity, but you've obviously not watched through or understood. Long lead times are where the infrastructure needs upgrading, and no DIYer is ever going to dig up the road and fit a new 35 SNE/CNE cable with live jointing. As for charge point lead times , they're pretty much off the shelf, and the lead time to fit is so that the installer can do the pre-installation survey, quotation, notification paperwork where necessary, and book the job into their busy schedule. It'll then be fitted to BS7671 and won't cause a fire or kill anyone. You point me to a DIYer who would quite easily be able to do all that in an evening at half the price. 🙄 🤔

@@abcelectric Absolutely agree with that. The comment was mainly to appreciate your work and make your video more visible to others, there was no attempt to encourage doing stupid DIY things without appropriate knowledge. Thank you for your generous reply.

A bit of reverse psychology eh? Thanks for that then Volodymyr. That's given me a little chuckle 😀

Pop Point has PEN protection and 6mA RDC-DD built in. It needs an external 30mA Type A RCD with 32A Overcurrent protection

Hi Alan. Purely for cost, because they're not mandatory. This video was prior to Amm. 2, but they're still not mandatory even now on domestic installations. I don't think SPDs are even mentioned in the EV Charging Equipment Installations Guide 4th Edition, but I'm not 100% on that. More recently, if I'm fitting a new DB I generally include an SPD, but to reiterate, they aren't mandatory in BS7671

🤣👍

It's certainly not best practice, but if you follow the Regs on distance, cable size and OCPD etc you could. I'm not quoting what those are because if you're an electrician you'll already know

Not sure what you mean by "hidden", but it's just like any other WiFi device. You connect to the temporary Pod Point Network, choose the required network and type in the password. See my Pod Point commissioning and WiFi video for more information

@@abcelectric hidden WiFi are those that do not broadcast SSIDs Have you done that before?

No. Surely you'd have to temporarily "unhide" it then? The issue is at the WiFi end, not the Pod Point end. Of course the PP won't see it if it's hidden. This isn't a PP connectivity question - it's a WiFi protocol question. Bypass the hidden SSID at source so the PP can find it, connect, then rehide it. Check the manual for the hidden WiFi device.

@@abcelectric nope, I did that. Broadcast, join, then hide but it loses connection after you hide it. If you have the section that details how to do this, can you send the link ? Been trying for a few days with no luck

I'm replying from experience. The manuals are freely available from Pod Point's website, but I know they don't cover this scenario. I think you'll have to contact Pod Point directly and ask them.

As far as I'm aware the CT clamp needs to be fitted for the unit to work properly. I believe Pod Point can bypass it over WiFi if necessary, however it's an integral safety device to prevent overload of the main cut-out. I'd suggest contacting Pod Point directly to ask them