Відео

Been waiting for this one. Cool setup. Good video with lots a good info.

James from SEDS in Pakenham, would not go anywhere else he knows he’s way around a TD!

Big job. Will be interesting to see first trial. Cool idea eliminating weak points.

Impressive Dan. People don't understand how much engineering is involved. Like Matt thats helped, you both are doing good stuff. Are you useing the 4.8 petrol diff centres. I dont know who does it now but i cryogenic froze the axles and cv, never broken since.

How do you get the bigger shafts to fit the Nissan diff centre?

Just out of curiosity love the channel and the videos could you run the tie rods under the knuckle instead of on top to clear the factory pan hard mount ?

Nice work on the diff. Get it load rated and I'll be keen and so would quite a few in the Duramax and 6BT camp

I'd definitely be keen on a front diff for my Frankenstein 4by🤙🏾

Mate, since ur in this stage, why not consider a hydro steering? It’s going to be more less steering rod.

Time for a rebody 😂

Any reason why you went for the hybrid radius arms over the super or hyper flex?

soo bloody good to see a patrol getting something different from the normal copy paste superior engineering treatment man. If i had the $$ id deff buy this setup off you if you can manage to get it to the stage that you can sell it as an almost bolt in kit (it already looks dam close) keep up the good work mate

@samyoung4wd needs to see this

Excellent work.

I definitely would love one of these housings been thinking about doing this front and rear on my gu

As much as I don’t want to admit it. I own a jeep with Dana diffs… and theyve caused nothing but problems. Having the tie rod at the front allows it to just slap everything. Had to get an alignment after every wheel. The lack of wheel bearing adjustment means when they flog out you have to buy another. And you feel the uni’s binding at full lock. It’s just something you can’t fix without running a cv style joint.

This is cool, I’ve often wondered why they’ve not taken off in 4x4’s here before. They’re massive in the drag racing scene here.

Unreal Dan

Some nice driving there, boys!

awesome work Dan! Love all the thinking outside the box

Hey Dan, i met one of your mates when he bought the 40's off me at Romsey. I've been running a 14 bolt/Reid60/40spline diff in the Ultra4 for 10 years now and there's a few things i think are worth mentioning. I'm sure you know all this but i figgered i'd put it out there for you and your listeners anyway. The oil sealing on these setups is diabolical, the main oil control seal is in the housing next to the diff and when they leak (not if), the tube fill up with crap and dirt and oil and you have to pull the third to get at the seals. You can run an outer tube seal but generally they're an environmental seal not oil control as the runout from the uni's and spindle needle bearings eventually allow some ingress. since the inners are custom length and the outers can be had as a cost effective part from any supplier, i suggest running 300m/35sp inners with CTM or Branik uni joints as a minimum with a stock outer. You need a fuse, if the outer axle is a fuse it's an easy part to access and it's cheap enough to keep on the shelf. chromolly drive slugs are a must too (assuming the unit bearing hubs still run slugs and you're not worried about road tyre wear from not having selectable hubs). RCV make CV's for these, the uni's from CTM and Branik are great, and are clearanced for greater steering angle but if i wasn't already running uni's and wanted replaceable outer axles i'd probably at least consider RCV's as an option. Hope you're having fun building this mate, welcome to the world of ditching Nissota jap axles and going to something stout. Let me know if you want to go for a sneaky wheel somewhere with an ultra4

Awsome montage music and heaps of good explanation 👍

This things gonna be a fkn animal unreal mate you got more brain cells then me that's for sure hahahaa

Keen as if it works

When fabricating the center is there any reason you didn’t match the standard width of the gu? If the inner axels had to be a custom length anyway.

What an awesome idea, love it.

Great Daniel! It's funny to me how a GU diff is an upgrade to so many 4x4's yet you build it one step stronger! It will look good, not being stupid wide.

I once did a skid for two weeks and never broke an axle.

Great watch man! So good to see something new and to see you taking a punt in an idea you’ve had floating around in your head a long time. I remember you talking about this years ago. Amazing work dude 🫶

Mate this amazing! Can’t wait to see more!

It’s a lot of work but it’s cool as 👍

if you're running hydro assist you must have the track bar and the drag link parallel as well as the same length because the hydro assist ram won't move outside of steering wheel input to accomodate the difference like a steering dampener does.. even if theres only 5mm steering pull caused by the different arcs it will eat track bar bushes and start disassembling brackets, crossmenbers, or steering box from the chassis or diff.

Wow man, amazing work. Good work takes time and your work is looking fantastic.

Have a look into diff pegging, done on landrovers. Some people in uk do it to patrols. That’s only if the centre is the next weak spot

Look up Striker sport trucks. the do a tierod and draglink that will work for your needs. They are part of a Idler box delete kit for F250

Diff looks sick. Well done. Thanks for making such great content. We all share your excitement.

Cool ideas, good to see someone thinking outside the box! I been wondering where you’ve been. Good that you’ve been having a good break and keen to see some more of this build!!🍻

Fascinating video thank you. Is your expectation that this design will reduce wheel rpm compared to a CV joint design (for the same power with higher torque) - due to the chunky knuckles having a higher moment of inertia than skinny CV’s?

Been waiting for someone to do this for years !!!!!

Do you reckon if you had the tie rod have some bends either end to move it forward it would clear the panhard mount?

Looking like more of a comp truck then a touring/hard tracks Ute haha love it though mate looks unreal

I'm definitely interested, what is the weight delta to the GU?

Brilliant fab work. Would a cranked tie rod have cleared the pitman arm mount?

Would be an epic kit

Awesome video mate. Have been hanging to finally see it under the car. Love the detail you ad to the videos aswell. Explaining your reasons for doing it the way your doing it. Keep up the good work

Shit yeh keen to see how much abuse she handles! 👌🏼🎉

Oh so land rover parts are upgrades for patrols now? Jks, love the fabrication mate!

megsy approved

That’s some serious fab bro, killa work 🙏

💪