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Brilliant. Great help thanks

Nice video! I was watching to make sure that everything is fresh in my mind, it's a while since I adjusted a saddle. From experience; 1. Use an engineer's square to keep the saddle dead flat at the side and bottom, just slide the saddle along the square and the sandpaper and frequently check that the bottom is still dead parallel to your line 2. I have the same type of gauge you're using, it's much much more accurate to read it using a magnifying glass. Before I start measuring the action I'll check the neck relief; I go for 0.010-0.012" across all strings - there is plenty of info on this online.

That is the wife is ok with you working on her counter top..

But..does that guitar have a pick up under the saddle...and can a guitar with a pickup under the saddle be adjusted?

Flatten neck first with truss rod adjustment. You may not even need to lower saddle. Just saying.

This was very very helpful. I’m thinking of trying to change the cone in my Gretsch and the spider on top of that and we’ll see how well I do. This was very helpful. Thank you. 2:11

Thank you

OMDog! Thank you so much! My Radio King developed a buzz long while back and I could NOT locate it. Looked at a lot of videos and your's is so straight forward! Guitar techs scared me with horror stories and advised against opening her up!!! Yep. Spidey legs. Took less than an hour to get it perfect! Probably faster if you have level counter tops. LOL I'm back in business.

That’s cool but what if I don’t have strings on the guitar because there is no saddle there? Everywhere I look for info they always saying to base the new saddle off of the old saddle but mine broke so that’s not an option. What do I do in this situation?

Great video

Awesome

This is just an excellent video. Really well done in terms of helping someone understand the process of safely adjusting the saddle action. The shop where I purchased my guitar (Martin D-35) tried to dissuade me from making any adjustments on the guitar despite my telling him I finger picked. Making these types of adjustments, depending on your style of play, can make all the difference, turning a guitar that’s “ok to play” into one that becomes your absolute go-to favorite. Well done! (One or two of the comments below are also helpful.)

Little tip to save yourself some hassle. Just capo the guitar with the strings still attached to the tuning pegs.

Nice explanation thankyou very much, appreciate your effort.

Thanks for the video. I have an Eastwood Delta 6 that arrived with a buzz. I followed your instructions regarding rotating the spider and was able to correct the issue.

Love accent thanks mate uk fan here

wow my acotin is all the way at 3.5 I guess I should lower it lol. when doing intonation which side to you file if a note is too sharp?

This assumes there is enough saddle bottom to file off to get what you want at fret 12. There may not be enough saddle bottom and no truss rod available to adjust (as in classical guitars).

Great video. Just got my first dobro, and the cone rattles. Now I know what to do to fix it! Thank you thank you.

A very helpful video with calm presentation and no unnecessary filling. Many thanks. 🎶

10:12 Open G Major Tuning. I prefer stringing the strings underneath the tailpiece to get more break angle which also allows me to get away w/ lighter gauge strings. However w/ the 16-56 strings strung underneath the tailpiece, they recommend tuning it down a few steps to maybe Open E Major (E, G#, B, E, G#, B).

Thank you! I was able to adjust my action after watching your video.

Your insight was so helpful. Thank you. Genuinely.

Great video.

Just realizing that saddle height=action. I kept reading different things. Problems settled 😂

Thank you for your help. Great video❤, liked and subscribed

Thanks for the demo on this . I’m having the LR Baggs Anthem SL installed in my Epiphone Inspired by Gibson J45. I enjoyed the accent too. Sounds like you’re from my neck of the woods in North Carolina

Excellent video! Thank you!

I had to watch when I saw you have common sense! I've seen so many people use a flat tip screwdriver or toothpick to lift the cone out by the edge when there's a perfectly good tension screw included. Thanks for the lesson!

8:45

You need to use a fence to keep the bottom of the saddle square. Whatever you take off the saddle should approximate to half the lowering of the strings at the 12th fret

Very nice job without a lot of unnecessary “stuff” added. Thanks very much!

Do you need to file a slight angle in back of each string slot in the maple bridge to match the slight string break angle going to the tailpiece?

Thank you. I have been researching this and this is the best video I have seen. I am primarily a finger style player. I recently traded for a 2011 McPherson Camrielle. They come stock with three bridges low, medium and high. The low measures a hair over 2.0 mm and I prefer 1.75. You really helped me with the ratio of the saddle adjustment to the height at the 12 fret. You also helped me by showing which sandpaper to use and how to do it. Great job! Thanks again .

The LR Baggs sounds good but it just can't compete with a good microphone in front of the sound hole. I listened with excellent head phones and the condenser mic was clearly better.

Thanks for the video, saved me a ton of cash on repairs to my resonator.

thank you for your common and sense in using metric for this application.

Great video! Thank you!

Thanks for the great video. I have a Taylor nylon acoustic that is very high at the 12th fret so I will buy one of these rulers and get to work. Thanks again.

what pickup are you using? I have a disc/cone pickup installed that howls with low end feedback......

Thanks for this video. You answered my question. Reading that Dana Bourgeois will only install Lyrics in his guitars, I decided to go with the best. After installing, I was concerned with the extremely weak signal compared to the under-saddle LR Baggs in my other guitar. Not only that but even with the weak signal I get feedback whereas the under-saddle is loud and has no feedback. The plus side is, it sounds so natural that unless I have the reverb turned up, it is hard to tell if the amp is on. Requiring an active DI just complicates the rig. The guitar also needs a sound hole feedback buster, which I would have to cut to allow space for the Lyric's controls. I think I need to re-think my thinking.

Thanks I really appreciate this video .. especially the part of 2:1 height difference ratio

I just saw this over years since you made the video, but thought I'd weigh-in, anyway. I suggest that instead of using your fingers and eyes to sand the saddle without accidentally taking off too much on either side, use a small board fixed with clamps, etc. at a 90 degree angle to your bench top with the sandpaper on the bench surface, facing upwards. Then, you can be assured that the bottom is perfectly flat and has the correct angle (90 degrees, also). This is esp. true if you have a piezo pickup under your saddle, as a poor sanding will affect the volume produced from a string at that location. And I start with 150-grit, then finish with a 400-grit., just a matter of preference. I would also use a radius gauge to check the strings underneath the saddle to verify that all six strings are at exactly the correct height (correct radius curve on top the saddle) and matching the curve of the fret board. New saddle blanks definitely have to be measured and adjusted, even if they are the compensated type and purchased from the same factory that made a guitar. I would think it prudent just to double-check the curve from the factory original. After years of playing on a saddle, strings gradually dent the top of most saddles with their constant string tension and they aren't at the same heights even if they were dead-on at the factory. If you see string indentations on top of the saddle where their were none, originally, your curve is definitely not correct. It would be important to also do a truss rod adjustment before you start measuring the height of the strings at the 12th fret. There needs to be a certain space under the strings and the frets at about the 7th fret when a capo is used to lock the strings down onto the 1st fret and the strings are held down at the 12th fret simultaneously. After that is done, you can then safely make your measurements of how much you want to lower your strings at the 12th.

Hey man....you need a new ruler. Cuz yours is "Baroque". 😆 🤣 😂 ill go now

on my first dobro the tension screw nut slips round and round. do i glue it or replace cone? cant seem to find correct size for cone , mines a regal and it is 10 and half inches , all i find is every other size 265 mm

Thanks! My dobro started rattling yesterday and I'm rarin' to fix it!

Beautiful. Lovely. I know the neck on that guy is realll comfy. Mine is so thin and narrow I can hardly play. But cant argue w the tone!!!! Song sounds good on the hd28! Praise God! Worship Him

I was gunna go w Chevy. What do you guys suggest for when I buy a pickup?

That was a really good demo. And super helpful ur complaints. Thanks man

Condenser wins hands down!