Pro-Tip: Don't completely clean the rail itself after greasing it. The excess grease acts prevents the rails (when not made from stainless steel) from rust.
In most situations, I'd pull the rail, remove the cartridge, give it an ISO bath and de-grease the rail before applying fresh. A lot of people don't do this though and you will go 1000+ hours between having to re-apply under normal conditions! Enjoy your build!
@@DetlevRackow they recommend lithium? Perhaps, though PTFE seems to be a commonly recommended option. I watched the alex kenis videos on lubricating and he seemed know his stuff and was also fine with ptfe. I had the permatex on hand and decided to go with it. Been 8 months of high use and no issues so far. The balls also moved just fine with nlg-2.
@@ThePhilbox I like Mr Keenis, but he is completely out of line with the instructions from companies like Hiwin or Misumi on this. They all say not to use grease with solid components like PTFE or MoS2.
It is actually better to disassemble carriage so dust and metal grit can be removed with a brush or Q tip. This way you are mostly dissolving old grease but not removing hard particles.
By working the carriage back and forth while submerged we're able to flush out a lot of debris. Removing the carriage isn't generally required, but if your rails are particularly bad and you feel the need to do it, be careful not to lose any balls.
@@MapleLeafMakers Honestly, removal and strip down is the best way. I have spare MGN9 and 12 bearings in case you lose balls, but every time I've done a strip down, there have been 2-10 bearing balls that were rusted, or poorly made. That's the time to toss them out and replace.
Pro-Tip: Don't completely clean the rail itself after greasing it. The excess grease acts prevents the rails (when not made from stainless steel) from rust.
Is it normal for the linear block to sway a little? on my vw on the x axis if the tool head is moved while pressed it shakes a little is that normal?
I'm not really sure what you're describing. Probably best to record a video and post it in the Voron discord, I'm sure someone there can help!
This is great when building your printer which I currently am. what do folks do to clean and lube once i's built?
Great to the point vid. Thanks
In most situations, I'd pull the rail, remove the cartridge, give it an ISO bath and de-grease the rail before applying fresh. A lot of people don't do this though and you will go 1000+ hours between having to re-apply under normal conditions! Enjoy your build!
Thank you for the video! What grease did you use?
I believe it is Klondike Ultra-tac EP-2
If you are also in Canada I have used permatex synthetic (has ptfe) with very good results. It's Canada's superlube. Also ep2.
@@ThePhilbox PTFE-blended lubrication is disadvised by all rail manufacturers. You are outside of the manufacturer recommendations with that.
@@DetlevRackow they recommend lithium? Perhaps, though PTFE seems to be a commonly recommended option. I watched the alex kenis videos on lubricating and he seemed know his stuff and was also fine with ptfe. I had the permatex on hand and decided to go with it. Been 8 months of high use and no issues so far. The balls also moved just fine with nlg-2.
@@ThePhilbox I like Mr Keenis, but he is completely out of line with the instructions from companies like Hiwin or Misumi on this. They all say not to use grease with solid components like PTFE or MoS2.
What greasing du you use?
I believe it is Klondike Ultra-tac EP-2!
@@MapleLeafMakers Thank you👌
It is actually better to disassemble carriage so dust and metal grit can be removed with a brush or Q tip. This way you are mostly dissolving old grease but not removing hard particles.
By working the carriage back and forth while submerged we're able to flush out a lot of debris. Removing the carriage isn't generally required, but if your rails are particularly bad and you feel the need to do it, be careful not to lose any balls.
@@MapleLeafMakers Honestly, removal and strip down is the best way. I have spare MGN9 and 12 bearings in case you lose balls, but every time I've done a strip down, there have been 2-10 bearing balls that were rusted, or poorly made. That's the time to toss them out and replace.
For high speed printer the best solution is wd40-PTFE LUBE
Lubricants with PTFE particles are specifically called out as not-suitable for linear rails. While it may "work", we would not recommend it.
@@MapleLeafMakers Wath tipe of lube you suggest for high speed applications, simple grease not good, liquid lithium grease?
@@textech8946 We use Klondike Ultra-tac EP-2