Відео

QUSTION: Where did you set the depth for the V-Bit? I did not see that. I saw the depth for the 1/4 and 1/8 bits as .0625.

Thank Jeff!

This is another great tutorial! Thanks once again for taking the time to share your knowledge.

This is exactly what I thought might work. Thanks for confirming!

How do I order one. I'm in South Africa

I was aware when this tool was released a few years back. I was into making small end tables at the time and was achieving flat panels by using parallel clamps with massive 7" Bessey "F" clamps on the panel's joints...Happy with those results. This year I've been making some "chevron" style EG cutting boards (3-D effect boards) that entail ripping 24", 8/4, boards at 30 degrees and then jointing before doing the first edge grain glue up. Trying to glue up boards jointed at 30 degrees is impossible without cauls. I fashioned cauls from some maple boards and carriage bolts that I would tighten with a ratchet wrench. Because of the nature of the jointing it was imperative to do many, many test fits to check my jointing (done with a hand plane) with a .004" feeler gauge. This got really tiring using parallel clamps and my cauls. It got me thinking again about Clampzilla (if you're a woodworker you're always scheming about how to do something easier/better, right?). I ordered three of the 18" clamps and had high hopes that it would reduce the labor involved during the dry fits as well as be more efficient during the eventual glue-ups. What I found was that Clampzilla does not hold down boards on their own if they are cut at an angle like this--it's clearly designed to work with boards jointed at 90 degrees. I tried various steps but nothing seemed to be working--the boards would just "pop-up" before any significant lateral pressure was applied. It finally dawned on me that maybe I could apply pressure on Clampzilla's top bar using the aforementioned Bessey "F" clamps and then turn the screw to apply lateral pressure. This worked fine; the only real disappointment is that during dry fitting I couldn't simply flip over the whole apparatus to inspect my jointing on both sides--I had to unclamp and flip over my boards to do that--extra step, but not overly onerous. So overall for the specialized use I anticipate using these clamps for I'm pretty happy with them. The screw feels very well engineered and is powerful enough to overcome the pressure exerted by the "F" clamps holding the top bar down. So the clamps save me work and I believe that I'll make a few of these type boards every year for the next several years. I think they might be useful in making butted picture frames. I'm sure I'll think of other uses as time goes by. I did a dry fit on some 5" wide maple boards as a test and I think these clamps do in fact work great, but again not essential on such a small panel. I don't know why anyone would need Clampzilla to make regular 90 degree EG boards--parallel, pipe clamps, and "F" clamps work fine for this. Much of the complaints I read (besides the price $$ ones) have to do with managing the "floppy aspect" of the clamps. My main frustration is probably getting the clamping pad centered on the stationary end. On an 18" bar size it's not too difficult for one person to manage, but on bigger glue-ups having an assistant to handle this while one is turning the screw would be very helpful I'd think. Don't really understand the kvetching about inserting the wood into the clamps. I found removing the quick release pins and swinging the top bar completely away pretty easy. Glue ups for my chevron boards was a no-stress event--unlike using my homemade cauls. I like the product for what I want to do with it. I get that many people will consider it a luxury tool (and it is) but if you can afford it it can be effective if you have specific needs. Anyway, I don't plan on taking my money to hell with me one day so why not Woodpeckers if it makes me happy? I know, I'm an aging boomer (the worst generation ever who is clearly part of Woodpeckers target group.) Forward

Quick question. Do you ever have issues with tool marks in the stirpes as it moves up the Y axis? I have the same machine and flatten my board per your flattening video. When I cut the stripes (usually with a 1/2" downcut then the 1/8" cleanup just like you do, it leaves tool marks (gouges) as it gets to the furthest point of the xX axis and moves up on the Y axis. I always get 3-4 tool marks I have to sand out. I believe my tramming is good since I do not get any visible lines anywhere else while carving and I'm using the exact same bits you use. I don't know if it is the downcut bits, stepover or just a normal thing when carving stripes. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have a photo if needed. Thanks.

Those glue up clamps are awesome. Never seen clamps like those!

Amazon link doesn’t work

Great info

Looks good. I happened to make my own.

Great video! Came to get ideas for shimming my panel which has a very, very amount of twist... never thought of using a metal shim set! It's so obvious in retrospect, thank you! I am also so jealous of your workholding setup. I need to invest the time + money into something like this. My current workflow is just so inefficient.

Awesome to see your back, and Mark has said you have been missed. looking forward to your work with the XTool and Lightburn

Welcome back Russ - I really enjoy your content. I’m looking forward to new topics.

Russ GREAT to have you back!!

Glad to see you back, Russ. You have been missed.

Nice update. Helpful. 😮

you still like your axiom?

Hey Russ. Just curious what RPM and feed speed (IPM) you are using for that large bit and if you keep it at the default stepover. I seem to get a bit of burning on my wood. It still levels out fine but I know that's not good on the bit but i'm not sure what to adjust (spindle speed or feed rate) or both. I actually have the Whiteside 6220 2in bit and it defaults to 13000 rpm and 200 ipm with an 87.5% stepover. Just curious what your settings are since yours come out so nice. Thanks.

Do you happen to have recommended speeds and feeds for the Amana 46054-k. the Amana tool file seems very crazy to me. its like 18k rpm, 270 feed, 90 plunge, .1 step over, .25doc. Any help would be appreciated. I run an avid cnc, aspire, mach4. Thank you in advance!

Hello. Can you tell me about your collet that holds your bits? I like the way you only needed 1 wrench, not the 2 wrench system. I am a beginner, 68 yrs old, and not the greatest hand strength, and find the 2 wrench system very challenging. Thanks! Great video.

After how many hours of run time do you do a cleaning/service like this? Great video, thanks!

@BlueLineCNC What step over do you generally use?

Hey Russ, I really like your videos! I'm a newbie considering buying my first CNC. I'm interested in the Axiom, but I noticed here you've added an Avid CNC. I think the Avid is too much for a beginner to start with, but looking back, are you glad you started with the Axiom, or would you have picked a different one like Shapeoko or OneFinity? I'm thinking of the overall experience for a newbie: software, operation, reliability, etc. Anyway, if you don't get a chance to answer me, I get it. I'm a new sub either way. I like your process videos on how you make the flags! Thanks!

Thanks for this video

We have a Powermatic 2x4 very similar to the Axiom. This was helpful, Thank You.

Enjoyed your video and am wondering why the F-clamps? Doesn’t that defeat the purpose of the panel clamps?

How’d you decide on your channel name ‘Blue Line?’

If you want the perfect system look at Frontline clamps. They’re 2x the price of Woodpeckers but are 100x better.

Thanks for the link to the shims and clamps. I picked up a set along with those same Armor clamps you are using. One issue I am having with the clamps though. When I secure them up against the pieces of wood (like the walnut pieces you use), the pressure seems to make the top of the flag raise up just a bit creating a gap at the bottom. I have tried various amounts of pressure but still have the problem. I even made the mistake of clamping them too tight and the bend dogs at the bottom left big dents in my wood. Just wondering if you have had this problem. Thanks

I saw another woodworker discussing these clamps (@TheThoughtfulWoodworker). He put them in ‘kickstand’ mode, which opened the clamps up without removing the pins and I t looks like it would help a great deal in loading wood in the clamps.

Why not put the clamps in “kickstand” mode to load the boards?

When I press the toolset buttons the cutter moves up instead of down. When I touch the cutter with the touch plate the z axis stops and retracts the set distance. I have auto updated but that did not resolve the issue. Thanks

Can the 4.2w version engrave metal? And how thick of wood/plywood can it cut?

Just setting up my Avid today also. Was there a reason you laid you tracks the way you did vs most ones i see lay front to back?

I just bought some armour t track clamps like you have but found they did not fit with the included T bolts. Do you happen to remember the size you used to make them work on your setup?

Hey Russ. I should be done setting up my spoil board on my new 48x48 this weekend and I want to try making a basic USA flag. I just watched all your series again and it's an awesome tutorial. One question though on the 1/4" down cut bit. I have the same one but on my old less powerful machine I was pushing it at 70ipm. I saw your settings were over 200ipm on the stripes. I have the Nema 34 motors so the machine can handle it but I didn't know if there was a speed limit on it since it only has a 1/4" shank. Just wondering if you really are able to run it at that speed. Keep up the great videos.

I like that black hose connection unit where do I get one?

My machine when homing goes to the front right corner do u know how I can switch that to the front left corner?

Isn't all that black stuff from the rails just grease? Also why lubing the rails if you also use grease? Not hating just asking thanks

Hi, great video, Is it necessary to turn off machine when changing bit? How do I set the Richauto controller to start cutting only when the desired number of RPM is reached?

Hi Russ. This was an AMAZING series!!! I watched every bit of it, and I'm watching part 1 again too. It was so damn easy to follow and detailed. Fun to watch too. ❤ I have a really quick question tho, after you stained the blueline, you went back and sanded the grain down and put a second coat on. So what I wanted to know is, do you also do that to the board after you put the black stain on, before you put it on the machine? If you DON'T do that, then how many coats of the stain would you apply? Thanks so much and thanks for putting this series together. ESPECIALLY part 1, that is going to be extremely helpful for this newbie. 😃👍

So for daily use, would you recommend the Avid or Axiom? I'm on the fence with these two and still building my small shop before I commit. I want to make sure I buy one that I won't feel like I need to "upgrade" my CNC to a bigger/better one after 1 or 2 years, that is part my research because I only want to buy one over the next 10 years, then...who knows.

Russ very good idea of way to try and handle this warping situation. Thanks for sharing.

Have you experimented with aluminum bar or some other type of metal to reduce the profile of the braces? Maybe even cut pockets in the back of the flag to almost conceal them.

do the braces stay on the finished piece? wouldnt the wood expansion act against the glue?

Another very useful video.

interesting idea. I was thinking of doing a flag on my CNC. Thanks for the idea

Are u also flipping each board....

Good video brother..... Keep it up