Great video! Came to get ideas for shimming my panel which has a very, very amount of twist... never thought of using a metal shim set! It's so obvious in retrospect, thank you! I am also so jealous of your workholding setup. I need to invest the time + money into something like this. My current workflow is just so inefficient.
Great video Russ - you addressed a very specific problem I've been having with getting flat blanks for my 3D projects. Really appreciate the link to the shims as well - next on my list! Thanks again!
Thanks Randy. I source my wood from a local hardwood supplier. The oak is actually red oak from the Midwest. Don’t go to the big box and buy S4S boards. You’ll get ripped off.
I’m literally getting ready to do this and I was wanting to find some shims for it. Thanks for sharing, these look great, I ordered a set! I zero my fly cutter by spinning maybe .007-.01 above the board with my finger and lowering in .001 increments. When it stops I’m done. Really fast to do. Paper works great too but I prefer the former for a fly cutter.
great video. do you have a plan for the spoilboard with horizontal t-track? Also, are you dog holes open on the bottom of the spoilboard? I'm wondering if the Kreg clamps (the bottom post) is larger than 3/4' deep. thanks.
Hi DW, I don't have plans for my spoilboard available to the public just yet. That is something that is in the works. I plan on doing a complete video on my spoil board and providing links to it on my website as well which will be in downloadable Vcarve files. Stay tuned for that very soon sir! As far as the Kreg clamps they are longer than 3/4" and yes my dog holes go through completely to avoid collecting saw dust and chips.
I loved the way yu explained this process. Wouldn't running the wood through a thickness planner be faster than running it through a CNC router, besides the you'll have to spend considerable amout of time getting CNC router ready when you will just push some buttons on the planner and throw the work piece in?
If you have a lot of panels, a planer will be the way to go. However, you will still have to contend with snipe, and the inherent unevenness and wobble in crappy wood would necessitate the use of a sled if you are looking for precision. Plus most planers cannot accommodate pieces I use. The CNC, using precision shims is much easier for “one off projects”. I have used both methods.
@@BlueLineCNC ThaNks for the reasoned explanation. Unfortunately I am not rich enough to buy you a planner, but I'll spend my subscribe currency on your informative youtube channel by subscribing and liking the video :)
Thanks for the link to the shims and clamps. I picked up a set along with those same Armor clamps you are using. One issue I am having with the clamps though. When I secure them up against the pieces of wood (like the walnut pieces you use), the pressure seems to make the top of the flag raise up just a bit creating a gap at the bottom. I have tried various amounts of pressure but still have the problem. I even made the mistake of clamping them too tight and the bend dogs at the bottom left big dents in my wood. Just wondering if you have had this problem. Thanks
If you have too much pressure at all that may occur. You need to adjust your clamps to where they are just holding it tight enough to keep it snug and no more. A gap/raising of the wood indicates you are overtightening. Make sure you are putting downward pressure on your piece as you slowly engage the clamps.
Looks like that worked. I had too much pressure on them. Kind of amazing that with just a little pressure it still holds them down so well but it did. Thanks again for the help and for the great videos.
Hey Russ. Just curious what RPM and feed speed (IPM) you are using for that large bit and if you keep it at the default stepover. I seem to get a bit of burning on my wood. It still levels out fine but I know that's not good on the bit but i'm not sure what to adjust (spindle speed or feed rate) or both. I actually have the Whiteside 6220 2in bit and it defaults to 13000 rpm and 200 ipm with an 87.5% stepover. Just curious what your settings are since yours come out so nice. Thanks.
Thanks Russ. Still up watching your videos and I just ordered the RC2255 bit using your link. As always you are very helpful. Keep up the great work.@@BlueLineCNC
Those glue up clamps are awesome. Never seen clamps like those!
Hi Kevin. There’s a few variants out there. Clampzilla is expensive. Rocker makes some that look similar and are less expensive.
Great video! Came to get ideas for shimming my panel which has a very, very amount of twist... never thought of using a metal shim set! It's so obvious in retrospect, thank you! I am also so jealous of your workholding setup. I need to invest the time + money into something like this. My current workflow is just so inefficient.
Glad to hear it helped!
Great video Russ - you addressed a very specific problem I've been having with getting flat blanks for my 3D projects. Really appreciate
the link to the shims as well - next on my list! Thanks again!
Hi Ken, glad the video was helpful! Those shims really do work well.
Nice! Thank you for the link to the shims!
You bet Mark! I constantly use these little buggers.
Mark i cant see a link for the shims could you possibly post it for me? Thank you and keep up the good work 👍
@@garyisnow46 They're right there in the description. Right below the Amana Surfacing Bit.
Another well organized and informative video, Russ. Great job. Keep them coming ! Are you resourcing your hardwoods locally ? Any suggestions ?
Thanks Randy. I source my wood from a local hardwood supplier. The oak is actually red oak from the Midwest. Don’t go to the big box and buy S4S boards. You’ll get ripped off.
I’m literally getting ready to do this and I was wanting to find some shims for it. Thanks for sharing, these look great, I ordered a set! I zero my fly cutter by spinning maybe .007-.01 above the board with my finger and lowering in .001 increments. When it stops I’m done. Really fast to do. Paper works great too but I prefer the former for a fly cutter.
Glad the video helped. The shims are awesome.
great video. do you have a plan for the spoilboard with horizontal t-track? Also, are you dog holes open on the bottom of the spoilboard? I'm wondering if the Kreg clamps (the bottom post) is larger than 3/4' deep. thanks.
Hi DW, I don't have plans for my spoilboard available to the public just yet. That is something that is in the works. I plan on doing a complete video on my spoil board and providing links to it on my website as well which will be in downloadable Vcarve files. Stay tuned for that very soon sir! As far as the Kreg clamps they are longer than 3/4" and yes my dog holes go through completely to avoid collecting saw dust and chips.
Excellent video Russ!
Thanks Jonathan!
I loved the way yu explained this process. Wouldn't running the wood through a thickness planner be faster than running it through a CNC router, besides the you'll have to spend considerable amout of time getting CNC router ready when you will just push some buttons on the planner and throw the work piece in?
If you have a lot of panels, a planer will be the way to go. However, you will still have to contend with snipe, and the inherent unevenness and wobble in crappy wood would necessitate the use of a sled if you are looking for precision. Plus most planers cannot accommodate pieces I use. The CNC, using precision shims is much easier for “one off projects”. I have used both methods.
@@BlueLineCNC ThaNks for the reasoned explanation. Unfortunately I am not rich enough to buy you a planner, but I'll spend my subscribe currency on your informative youtube channel by subscribing and liking the video :)
Thanks for the link to the shims and clamps. I picked up a set along with those same Armor clamps you are using. One issue I am having with the clamps though. When I secure them up against the pieces of wood (like the walnut pieces you use), the pressure seems to make the top of the flag raise up just a bit creating a gap at the bottom. I have tried various amounts of pressure but still have the problem. I even made the mistake of clamping them too tight and the bend dogs at the bottom left big dents in my wood. Just wondering if you have had this problem. Thanks
If you have too much pressure at all that may occur. You need to adjust your clamps to where they are just holding it tight enough to keep it snug and no more. A gap/raising of the wood indicates you are overtightening. Make sure you are putting downward pressure on your piece as you slowly engage the clamps.
Looks like that worked. I had too much pressure on them. Kind of amazing that with just a little pressure it still holds them down so well but it did. Thanks again for the help and for the great videos.
Glad it worked!@@RickP4880
Hey Russ. Just curious what RPM and feed speed (IPM) you are using for that large bit and if you keep it at the default stepover. I seem to get a bit of burning on my wood. It still levels out fine but I know that's not good on the bit but i'm not sure what to adjust (spindle speed or feed rate) or both. I actually have the Whiteside 6220 2in bit and it defaults to 13000 rpm and 200 ipm with an 87.5% stepover. Just curious what your settings are since yours come out so nice. Thanks.
I’m running 18k RPM with a 40 percent step over. I’m only taking off .02 inch at a time. Hope that helps!
Very much so. I was running the RPM way to slow. I will try another run with the new settings. Are you running it at about 200ipm?@@BlueLineCNC
I can’t remember but I would go with bit mfg suggestions on speed and no faster.
Thanks Russ. Still up watching your videos and I just ordered the RC2255 bit using your link. As always you are very helpful. Keep up the great work.@@BlueLineCNC
@BlueLineCNC What step over do you generally use?
I use a 40 percent step over. Thanks for asking!
Do you recommend the 2 x 2 or 3 x 3 shims?
Hi Kevin, either will work. I use the 3” in my video.
I cant see a link for the shims ?
Hi Gary check the description about midway down.