I was aware when this tool was released a few years back. I was into making small end tables at the time and was achieving flat panels by using parallel clamps with massive 7" Bessey "F" clamps on the panel's joints...Happy with those results. This year I've been making some "chevron" style EG cutting boards (3-D effect boards) that entail ripping 24", 8/4, boards at 30 degrees and then jointing before doing the first edge grain glue up. Trying to glue up boards jointed at 30 degrees is impossible without cauls. I fashioned cauls from some maple boards and carriage bolts that I would tighten with a ratchet wrench. Because of the nature of the jointing it was imperative to do many, many test fits to check my jointing (done with a hand plane) with a .004" feeler gauge. This got really tiring using parallel clamps and my cauls. It got me thinking again about Clampzilla (if you're a woodworker you're always scheming about how to do something easier/better, right?). I ordered three of the 18" clamps and had high hopes that it would reduce the labor involved during the dry fits as well as be more efficient during the eventual glue-ups. What I found was that Clampzilla does not hold down boards on their own if they are cut at an angle like this--it's clearly designed to work with boards jointed at 90 degrees. I tried various steps but nothing seemed to be working--the boards would just "pop-up" before any significant lateral pressure was applied. It finally dawned on me that maybe I could apply pressure on Clampzilla's top bar using the aforementioned Bessey "F" clamps and then turn the screw to apply lateral pressure. This worked fine; the only real disappointment is that during dry fitting I couldn't simply flip over the whole apparatus to inspect my jointing on both sides--I had to unclamp and flip over my boards to do that--extra step, but not overly onerous. So overall for the specialized use I anticipate using these clamps for I'm pretty happy with them. The screw feels very well engineered and is powerful enough to overcome the pressure exerted by the "F" clamps holding the top bar down. So the clamps save me work and I believe that I'll make a few of these type boards every year for the next several years. I think they might be useful in making butted picture frames. I'm sure I'll think of other uses as time goes by. I did a dry fit on some 5" wide maple boards as a test and I think these clamps do in fact work great, but again not essential on such a small panel. I don't know why anyone would need Clampzilla to make regular 90 degree EG boards--parallel, pipe clamps, and "F" clamps work fine for this. Much of the complaints I read (besides the price $$ ones) have to do with managing the "floppy aspect" of the clamps. My main frustration is probably getting the clamping pad centered on the stationary end. On an 18" bar size it's not too difficult for one person to manage, but on bigger glue-ups having an assistant to handle this while one is turning the screw would be very helpful I'd think. Don't really understand the kvetching about inserting the wood into the clamps. I found removing the quick release pins and swinging the top bar completely away pretty easy. Glue ups for my chevron boards was a no-stress event--unlike using my homemade cauls. I like the product for what I want to do with it. I get that many people will consider it a luxury tool (and it is) but if you can afford it it can be effective if you have specific needs. Anyway, I don't plan on taking my money to hell with me one day so why not Woodpeckers if it makes me happy? I know, I'm an aging boomer (the worst generation ever who is clearly part of Woodpeckers target group.) Forward
I take about 1/32 - 1/16 off between both sides. The hardwood is 13/16 in thickness from my supplier, a bit thicker than the crap you get from the big boxes so it works out good.
I saw another woodworker discussing these clamps (@TheThoughtfulWoodworker). He put them in ‘kickstand’ mode, which opened the clamps up without removing the pins and I t looks like it would help a great deal in loading wood in the clamps.
I was aware when this tool was released a few years back. I was into making small end tables at the time and was achieving flat panels by using parallel clamps with massive 7" Bessey "F" clamps on the panel's joints...Happy with those results.
This year I've been making some "chevron" style EG cutting boards (3-D effect boards) that entail ripping 24", 8/4, boards at 30 degrees and then jointing before doing the first edge grain glue up. Trying to glue up boards jointed at 30 degrees is impossible without cauls. I fashioned cauls from some maple boards and carriage bolts that I would tighten with a ratchet wrench. Because of the nature of the jointing it was imperative to do many, many test fits to check my jointing (done with a hand plane) with a .004" feeler gauge. This got really tiring using parallel clamps and my cauls.
It got me thinking again about Clampzilla (if you're a woodworker you're always scheming about how to do something easier/better, right?). I ordered three of the 18" clamps and had high hopes that it would reduce the labor involved during the dry fits as well as be more efficient during the eventual glue-ups.
What I found was that Clampzilla does not hold down boards on their own if they are cut at an angle like this--it's clearly designed to work with boards jointed at 90 degrees. I tried various steps but nothing seemed to be working--the boards would just "pop-up" before any significant lateral pressure was applied. It finally dawned on me that maybe I could apply pressure on Clampzilla's top bar using the aforementioned Bessey "F" clamps and then turn the screw to apply lateral pressure. This worked fine; the only real disappointment is that during dry fitting I couldn't simply flip over the whole apparatus to inspect my jointing on both sides--I had to unclamp and flip over my boards to do that--extra step, but not overly onerous.
So overall for the specialized use I anticipate using these clamps for I'm pretty happy with them. The screw feels very well engineered and is powerful enough to overcome the pressure exerted by the "F" clamps holding the top bar down.
So the clamps save me work and I believe that I'll make a few of these type boards every year for the next several years.
I think they might be useful in making butted picture frames. I'm sure I'll think of other uses as time goes by. I did a dry fit on some 5" wide maple boards as a test and I think these clamps do in fact work great, but again not essential on such a small panel. I don't know why anyone would need Clampzilla to make regular 90 degree EG boards--parallel, pipe clamps, and "F" clamps work fine for this.
Much of the complaints I read (besides the price $$ ones) have to do with managing the "floppy aspect" of the clamps. My main frustration is probably getting the clamping pad centered on the stationary end. On an 18" bar size it's not too difficult for one person to manage, but on bigger glue-ups having an assistant to handle this while one is turning the screw would be very helpful I'd think.
Don't really understand the kvetching about inserting the wood into the clamps. I found removing the quick release pins and swinging the top bar completely away pretty easy. Glue ups for my chevron boards was a no-stress event--unlike using my homemade cauls.
I like the product for what I want to do with it. I get that many people will consider it a luxury tool (and it is) but if you can afford it it can be effective if you have specific needs. Anyway, I don't plan on taking my money to hell with me one day so why not Woodpeckers if it makes me happy? I know, I'm an aging boomer (the worst generation ever who is clearly part of Woodpeckers target group.)
Forward
Indeed it is a luxury tool if one can afford it. Right up there with Festool. But, you do get what you pay for.
Thanks for the update Russ ! Love your content and updates.
Thank you! Hopefully I’ll get some more content out soon. 😀
Nice update. Helpful. 😮
Glad it was helpful!
Enjoyed your video and am wondering why the F-clamps? Doesn’t that defeat the purpose of the panel clamps?
Sometimes the edges are slightly off. F-clamps help. I have yet to find a perfect solution to align imperfect wood boards. But I am still searching!
How much thickness do you normally end up having to remove when you flatten with the CNC?
I take about 1/32 - 1/16 off between both sides. The hardwood is 13/16 in thickness from my supplier, a bit thicker than the crap you get from the big boxes so it works out good.
Why not put the clamps in “kickstand” mode to load the boards?
Thanks Bobby, I have actually started doing that since the video released.
Good information brother.. Keep it up...
Thanks Dan!
If you want the perfect system look at Frontline clamps. They’re 2x the price of Woodpeckers but are 100x better.
They look pretty nice!
I saw another woodworker discussing these clamps (@TheThoughtfulWoodworker). He put them in ‘kickstand’ mode, which opened the clamps up without removing the pins and I t looks like it would help a great deal in loading wood in the clamps.
It is much easier. I have actually started loading my wood that way since the video was posted.