Відео

They should do okay with an optical correcting adapter and not 🚫 using the doubler, in low light. Stopping the lens down to f2.8-f4 is ideal for best image results out of these SD lenses which is approx a T3.5-T5.6, so if you can shoot a concert on those cameras (ISO) at that T stop range currently, then a SD B4 lens would work great 😃👍 My FS7 wouldn't have a problem as it's base is 2000 ISO, but the Micro4/3 cameras likely have different clean ISO ranges

@@jamesandcamera interesting 🤔

Sorry mate, I assumed people would look at my other videos and find the full test I did with it, showing the full lens name. Go here for the video on it 😊🤙 if you get one, make sure you have a really rigid lens support system. ua-cam.com/video/W5MwcRI_tec/v-deo.html

There is also this older video I made showing lens model and test footage with it too 👍 ua-cam.com/video/Gb_gGCaaQ94/v-deo.html

Yeah late SD lenses are fine so long as you don't need to use them wide open or you don't need a constant exposure through the full zoom range. Where the later HD lenses are perfectly sharp wide open and have far less CA, and no exposure drop when zooming past 80%. As with a lot of things, the older pro equipment is still perfectly usable if the little imperfections don't affect your use case. I use a lot of SD glass, but work within its limitations to get good results.

@@jamesandcamera Your major limitation with the FS7 is the lowish resolution of its S16 crop (and using the doubler for Super 35 greatly impairs these lenses); it's doubtful whether the difference between HD and SD good lenses, is hugely critical; and I can see that from your tests; notwithstanding the slightly lower CA with HD. These differences are more marked on the UHD crop of the Ursa Broadcast G2.

@@CUTproductionsLtd I see you have misconstrued my answer to think that resolving power of the lens is the issue and had anything to do with what I said, it is not. They are, 1) non constant exposure through the last 20% of the zoom range on the longer J series lenses. 2) the lower sharps when used wide open. 3) the more noticeable CA. 4) the more audible servo zoom motor when doing snap zooms. None of these are deal breakers, they are all just things to manage and work around for those of us using SD lenses. All of which were significantly improved or eliminated in the HJ series. People can use whatever lens they want, I am not their mum. I am just here to provide clear and accurate information from my first hand testing, and experience using all grades of broadcast equipment for over a decade.

@@jamesandcamera James, I think you've totally 'misconstrued' what I was trying to say, and that's perhaps my fault: 1) Much of TV broadcast (For example and here in the UK) is still HD; so the better of these lenses, are still very useful; mainly for their ENG uses and hugely flexible possibilities; since everyone wants 'shallow' DOF now otherwise. 2) For more critical UHD/4K delivery; the differences between SD, HD and 4K B4s are greater than your tests show on those sensors;. 3) The optical adaptor from BMD you are using as the basis for your adaptor is of HD quality; only the Ursa Broadcasts have a 4K one and that is not available for separate sale. My J16, for example, performs even better on my UBG2 but at the extremes CA is more noticeable. It's quite possible in post now, to remove most of that though. 4) Even given all the above, as you show, in controlled shooting, they can be very very good. But a doubler severely impacts resolution at higher than HD (and often less); your camera's target crop and adaptor is largely masking this. As I say very interesting tests. I love these lenses, have many years experience with them too; but they will still perform best on cameras designed for them; such as the Ursa Broadcasts and true 2/3" cameras such as those from Sony and Panasonic; or with optical PL adaptors such as those from Arri and IBE that scale to Super 35 without using the doubler. I didn't mean to sound critical. All the best.

I am glad it was useful 😊🤙

Glad to hear, you should be able to get some really nice, clear footage out of that XA series lens being a HD quality optic 👌

It works on the pocket 4k in later firmware versions with the S16 scan mode. It won't work with the 6k as it is not made for reflex mounts cameras like EF mount. Prices for each adapter depend on the design I make in that batch.

@@jamesandcamera I have a Canon YJ18x9B4 IRS SX12 with a doubler, will your adapter work with my lens? I want to mount to my BMPCC 4k. I need that front lens mount also.

@@NativeWire the adapter works in S16 scan mode with any 2/3" B4 lens. Check my latest video to see how a Slightly newer version of that lens performs with the adapter. A YJ19x9

Thanks 😊

Hi mate, yes I make the adapter to suit Micro4/3 mount cameras. The other mounts I offer are Canon RF and Sony E. I don't offer any other mount just yet as I would be unable to do calibration testing without a camera in that mount. It should be possible to make it to suit any mirrorless or rangefinder mount eventually. The adapters I make are not high enough quality at this time to be rental grade. They are more an experimental small batch product. The adapters I make only suit 2/3" B4. 1/2 and 1/3 have different flange depths and mount geometry despite looking very similar to a standard 2/3" mount.

I don't have a factual answer on that one, but my theory is the incrementally longer zoom ranges indicate each generation of the lens. B4 lenses used to be zoom ranges like 7x7 or 14x9 low zoom ratios, and eventually each generation seems to increase up to 20x and 23x zoom ratios in a portable lens, and 35x in a 'semi portable' lens. I think we have reached a bit of a peak through as we have been making 21x, 22x and 23x lenses for a while now. Maybe they are focusing on quality rather than range now 🤷

@@jamesandcamera That makes sense. I think you may end up reaching the limits of the laws of physics if you want to make the zoom range much longer than they are now.

Hey Rafael, B4-PL mount adapters are your only option with the XT. I don't make ones in PL unfortunately, so not really any affordable options. The only options in PL I recommend for quality optical correction are the IBE and the Arri one. Hope that helps 😊🤙

Yeah it's much harder these days. The prices have gone up so much 😅

Yeah I am really surprised how well a "budget" B4 lens performs optically. It's not perfect, but it's a lot better than I expected. Keen to see your new video when it comes out 😊🤙

Hey Mate, yes I ship to the UK. Have already sent a few over there over the past 6 months. You can find my email in the "about" section of this UA-cam channel. Shoot me an email 😊 if I type it out here I will get too much spam from bots in my inbox😅

@@jamesandcamera thanks James. I’ve just found you on Instagram and have sent you a message there.

Yeah, the BEE-CAM adapter I make in B4-SonyE, B4-Micro4/3 and B4-CanonRF. So yeah been making Micro4/3 ones for a while now. I just prefer to shoot these videos with my FS7 in S16 mode.

Yeah, same. There is also a lot of mis-information out there. Which is why I made these videos and put together a more affordable corrected adapter for people like myself who can't afford $3000-9000 for a corrective adapter.

@@jamesandcamera Do you sell these adapters or can you point me in the right direction to find/make one? Or are there any that are commercially available that you recommend that aren't ridiculously expensive?

@@seanbonbon ua-cam.com/video/bxN0TT0W788/v-deo.html this is an overview of the one I put together and sell. It's the only affordable optically corrected adapter. Every other adapter that has the same image quality is more expensive by several $k

Thanks for finding it useful 😊 For an FX30 either the IBE HDx35 adapter if you have a few $k or the one I put together and use in the corrected footage in these tests, which is more affordable. If you had heaps of budget to Sony LA-EB1 may also work, but is technically only listed as working with the FS7. I may be biased to the one I put together and sell but I think it does just as well in terms of image quality at a fraction of the cost.

@@jamesandcamera Can you provide a link to purchase the adapter?

@@OlimpiuVuia the IBE and Sony ones are easy enough to google. Otherwise email me for the one I put together and I can send you price and pics of the latest batch

Sometimes that's what's best. For sure one of these is also WAY better built than a Synology type plasticy NAS. I recon it will do you well 😊🤙

It is going to answer so many people's questions 🤙

If you are familiar to the whole range of Canon 2/3" lenses, the best comparison I can make is that KJ lenses are like YJ lenses. They are the cheaper option, with less features, slower servo zooms, cheaper build quality and slightly worse chromatic aberration compared to their broadcast grade counterparts. Personally if you can afford the HJ, it is technically better image quality and CA control. But these days there is not too much difference in image unless it's a challenging lighting situation. YJ = cheap SD J= broadcast quality SD KJ = cheap HD HJ = broadcast quality HJ CJ = top quality 4K

The lenses are useful for basic work. Not sure about the PTZ cams. Check eBay etc to see what they are selling for. You might be able to sell them on and buy a HD lens or better.

​@@jamesandcameraI posted all 3 cameras with 3x lenses you reviewed on FBM someone offered me 100£ for all , not sure if this is right price.... I believe cameras are old but lenses may have some value...

@@DiaboloIIICzarodziej did you check eBay to see what others are being sold for? The lenses are able to be sold for much higher than that each.

@@jamesandcamera thank you James, can you recommend 4k body for that lens? Your knowledge about video is mind-blowing!

@@DiaboloIIICzarodziej it is probably not worth putting a SD lens on a 4K body. But any camera body that can shoot in a Super16 size sensor scan mode would work well with the lenses and an optical adapter. Sony FS5, FS7, FX9. Black Magic Micro Cine Cam, Pocket Cinema Camera 4k (will only work in HD mode), Ursa Mini Broadcast. Many of the Panasonic GH line of cameras can use a S16 scan mode too. Canon C70 in S16 HD scan mode. Best to do your research too. Some cameras have better quality scan modes than others.

Hey Ian, I have not found this one too top heavy yet. But I try and keep the heavier items at the bottom of the bag. I have noticed, because this bag only has 1 side pocket, that it can get very lop-sided in weight. But that has been my only notable thing I have found that I don't like about the bag. Otherwise I think for the $70 I paid for i, that it works quite well in value for money.

@@jamesandcamera Maybe I should buy more kit just to store in the bottom! More seriously, it’s my only dedicated camera backpack so I’m loathe to stop using it. Before buying it I used a think tank holster on a belt. I might go back to something like that and just store some water bottles in the bottom of the LowePro.

@@ianforber if you have the same straps under the bag that I do, maybe strapping the tripod underneath might help set the centre of gravity lower? They are adaptable bags I am sure there is a configuration that would work better with a bit of re-jigging.

@@jamesandcamera Thanks. Good idea. I’ll check that out

Hi, definitely look at IBE B4-PL adapters then use a PL-E adapter. Or MTF do a B4-E but I have not tried MTF personally. Otherwise I convert the optical corrected B4-E adapter you see used for the corrected footage in this video series. Email me if you are interested 😊👍

Hey Anthony, get in touch with me by my email in the about section of the channel. I will have the next batch of adapters ready in about a week 😊👍

@@jamesandcamera Hi James. Email sent from my spectravideo**************** email address. Look forward to hearing from you. Cheers Anthony

Hey Alex, first I would need to know the exact model code (eg: Canon J16x8B4-...) of the lens to make sure it is worth you going through all the trouble 👍 The optical correcting adapters I customise can work with 2/3" B4 lenses and convert them with corrections and a slight image expansion to Sony E mount and other mirrorless mounts. There are other manufacturers who make more expensive optical adapters too such as IBE, MTF, Abakus, Sony and Canon. I do NOT recommend Fotodiox for B4 adapters, from my experience I don't think they are optically correct and don't produce a clean enough image. The adapter I customise is optically corrected and cleans up the image so that is like using on a native B4 3CCD camera. It suits S16 sensor sizes and can cover 98% of a S35 sensor when using a lenses inbuilt doubler. It is perfectly suited to FS7/FS5/FX9 with their S16 center scan mode and S35 capture mode. Hope that helps 😊👌

@@jamesandcamera Thanks James, It is a , Canon J15x9.5B4 KRS Lens..........

Definitely on my to-do list to put some files available to download 😊👍

The unit I have does not have raid function and I use it to view HD and single stream 4k footage no problem 👍

Hey, yes "doubler" is a slang word for the lenses in built 2x teleconverter.

@@jamesandcamera ありがとうございます❣️

You would have to look up the official max power draw of the G200 with its power supply. Chances are if the LED array is 200w, then the supporting electronics in it like a fan and screen will make it something like 230w total power draw. Pushing it past the limit for this portable inverter. It would be significantly more battery efficient to run a Vmount battery powered light directly from battery rather than powering a light with a V mount battery through the inverter. That is because V mount is DC, then convert to AC in the inverter and change voltage, then convert back down to low voltage DC in the lights power supply. Each step loses a heap of efficiency in conversion. Better to have a 200w light that can run off parallel V mount batteries direct for best efficiency.

Hi Robert, most B4 lenses don't have autofocus. Autofocus is not something you require on professional video lenses. So no autofocus on this lens or any other lens in my B4 lens test series. Thanks for the question! 😊👍

You're welcome! 😊

Great question, watch the first 1min of this other video I made, which talks about why with images. Basically the lenses are designed for 3CCD sensors which have very different requirements. ua-cam.com/video/bxN0TT0W788/v-deo.html

Use the "Move" function for files to transfer them over to any external storage device. Don't use the "Cut and paste" function. Most data losses are during mid transfer of a cut action when the drive loses power/disconnects unexpectedly. The move function leaves the data at the original location until it has fully completed a clean transfer. In 25+yrs of using external storage a lot I have never lost data. I don't even eject drives ever or do anything fancy. I just wait till my files are fully transfered, then unplug or power down. I have no idea how people manage to lose data unless they are pulling cables mid transfer or have a faulty USD port that drops out on their device.

@@jamesandcamera In my case, there were no file movement activities on the attached drives. The attached drives had been idle and I just forget they were still powered on. The manufacturer instruction was to eject the drives via software using the task bar menu every time before disconnection. I just forgot the attached drives were still powered on. The fact that I shut down the pc led to losing one of the 1 terabyte drives. I thought that is a fatal implementation of the system. Power failure or tripped wire could lead to huge data loss. I do not want to add a UPS to the network just for this. That is why am looking for alternative storage system.

@@PaintedCloudsStudio sounds like a BS excuse from the drive manufacturer. Been hard shutting off or pulling cables from drives for as long as I have had a PC. Zero issues and I don't expect to ever have issues.

Software ejection? Eject drives? It comes without any software. It behaves like any other external harddisk. You plug it in and the 5 drives show up in windows. Its switched on 24/7. Once you shut down the computer you must switch the Yottamaster off if you do not want it running. Disks are hot swappable. No need for drive ejection.

Good to know other people are using them with results they are happy with 😊👌

Hi TS, this adapter is designed specifically for S35 sensor cameras or cameras with S16 scan modes. It is not intended to work well with the FX6 not having a native S35 scan mode. I can't say what settings will be limited to you if you are using digital zoom to get to S35 scan. For my native S35+S16 FS7 I am able to shoot 150p in 2K S35 and 60/50p in DCI/4K. Again, no idea what the restrictions are with the FX6. You can test that yourself by replicating a S35 scan mode both in camera. Or by capturing open gate and cropping out a S35 portion of the image in post.

@@jamesandcamera Gotcha, any advice on running these lenses with an FX6?

Yeah, the doubler clears up some haze. But you still end up with a much lower level of sharpness in the wider end of the iris range. If it works for you that way that is great, the more use of B4 lenses the better in my opinion. They are a great tool 😊🤙

@@jamesandcamera completely agree! I have the Fujinon 22x HD and it's been wonderful being able to go from 22 mm to 450mm I do sports cinematography so it fits perfectly for my work

@@Emiliano-Oseguera Ah man if you have a HD lens I would definitely recommend some sort of optical correcting adapter when you have the budget. It is worth doing with HD lenses as currently you are really only getting the quality of an SD lens and leaving a lot of sharpness untapped. Still fully understand if it's good enough for now. Sometimes that is all you need 😊👌

@@jamesandcamera yeah! Unfortunately optical adapters are ridiculously expensive, for now I'll keep my dummy adapter, either way the quality is pretty decent ! Let me show you an example

@@jamesandcamera ua-cam.com/video/ivih7xNTp64/v-deo.htmlsi=DsmP9RIWRlqNHRD1

Don't know, best to just work within the listed spec. If you need more than 90TB then maybe you need a server rather than a consumer DAS 😊🤙

You mean 5 20TB drives? I had one 18 TB, 2x10TB, 2x18TB. That worked max TB I did not try.

@@GanymedeXDyes exactly, I’m wondering if it can Handle it - I don’t see any spec limitations

Hey Scott, many cameras have S16 scan modes where they use a S16 size part of their sensor, such as the Sony FS7, FS5, FX9. Canon C70, C300mk2 etc. Panasonic GH4. Black Magic Pocket 4K, and Black Magic Micro Cinema Camera. Plenty more cameras out there that can do a S16 scan mode too, those are just a quick list. The adapter also works with S35 cameras when using a lenses inbuilt doubler to expand the image further.

I haven't had the chance to use an Abakus 1.4x B4-PL adapter yet. It is one I do want to test out myself. I would ask the Abakus manufacturer if their adapter is optically corrected to stop all the spherical aberrations before buying it. No point in buying it if it isn't optically corrected 😊👌

Depends on what camera you want to adapt to. What mount is it that you want to adapt to?

​@@jamesandcamera Fuji/Panasonic (MFT/FF)

@@realisthw the adapter I used in these tests is one I convert. I can make it in Sony E, Canon RF, Micro 4/3 and Fuji-X. Suitable for S35 with doubler and S16 scan mode without doubler. Otherwise IBE makes great A+ adapters and MTF make good adapters.

@@jamesandcamera What adapter are you using? (model and manufacturer please) As I understand you B4-EF adapter, and then you convert EF-other mount?

@@realisthw I make/convert the optically correcting adapter I used in these tests. It corrects for the light wavelength offsets that are designed for 3CCD sensors with prisms. Heaps better image quality than a basic passthrough adapter, or adapter with just an expansion element.

Hi, no I don't make one for EF, it is much more complex compared to adapting with optical correction to a mirrorless mount. The only one I know of that can work with EF only works with the C300 MK2 in S16 centre scan mode, not S35.

Glad you found value in the video. It does make a nice travel combo with a A6xxx body camera 😊👌

😉👌

Yeah the weight definitely comes with the territory of being 70-80yrs old and a 10x ratio S35 zoom. The much more modern Angenieux "HR" version is a bunch lighter and has a "High Resolution (HR)" image. But $20k+ at the point of this video compared to $3-6k. The Canon CN 25-250 is lighter again and has a servo motor and is even higher quality and higher price. But even then you can't get away from the large physical size required for a 10x ratio S35 zoom. Damn physics 😅

Hey Joel, this video should answer your questions: ua-cam.com/video/bxN0TT0W788/v-deo.html

Glad you found the other video 😊, for anyone else who reads your comment I will leave a link to the video about the adapter: ua-cam.com/video/bxN0TT0W788/v-deo.html

I have had this one for about 7 years. They are easy enough to find. But expencive. This model of lens was one Kubrick used to shoot parts of The Shining apparently. It is very very old and weighs a LOT because of its full brass metal construction and huge front collector element. I am yet to find a zoom lens that I can't create a decent image with. I don't know if that indicates a certain level of skill as an operator, or just that lenses have been quite good quality for a long long time.

It indicates both ;) @@jamesandcamera