A cool video would be side by side comparison of two chains cutting logs. One chain sharpened with constant depth gauge and one chain sharpened with progressive. Start with new chains and then compare cut time at maybe 25%, 50%, and 75% of chain life. Great anaysis. Thanks!
What the progressive gauge does is keep the attack angle at the correct angle. The flat constant gauge attack angle will just decline as you file the cutter away. At end of life the attack angle will less that 3 I have done test and the constant gauge cutting performance drops to 60% efficiency approximately when using that type of gauge
Another explanation on the progressive depth gauge is that it works on an angle principle rather than a clearance. So that being said all progessive depth gauges do have attack angles associated when using them. If the attack angle is uniform then each cutter will cut equally irrespective of tooth length
Just catching up on this. As i said before there is 2 different theories on the progressive guages. The issue carlton identified was different to the one you discribe and that the majority of progressive gauges are attempting to correct. The reason different guages produce different results to to suit a specific cutter geometry. Some quick ones, C85 requires 0.24mm extra at end of life compared to new. 0.68mm total achives this Oregon EXL requires 0.11mm extra 0.71 total B3EP needs 0.99mm extra 1.93mm total These amounts will match carltons original idea and correct the issue he identified. These amounts wont not maintain a constant attack angle. That would require significantly more to be removed I can show this with a bit if a demonstration if you like
You need to try to West Coast Saw version. It’s made from some sort of REALLY GOOD and HARD steel (like a very high quality spring steel) that a file will NOT ever effect. And it’s flat which allows me to carry it IN my wallet yet I never realize that it’s there. 😁
That's the critical part the rocking motion. As the tooth wears down so does the leverage a new chain has approximately 6mm gap between the raker and the cutter at end of life it's about 13mm and the rocking motion leverage has been decreased, so more raker depth is required to make the tooth rock and bite in.
😊😊 the rakers must be the same so the wood chips 🍟 😊 are the same so it will cut the same the old chainsaw files they don't make no more or the chains either 😮😮 most files after U sharpen a chain 4 times and it starts getting slick its no good because it's no teeth left on tge file so it won't sharpen nothing not even butter either 😮😮 and the chain will the same thing U will have a tooth on 1 side and not the other then that 2 is no good no more either replace W a new 1 and the chainsaw bar can't have a burr on it either that won't let the chain cut either U have 2 use a flat file and file it smooth again U shouldn't be able 2 feel nothing W your finger nail 😊😊 U have 2 do this 4 both sides top and bottom and U should flip the bar everytime U sharpen the chain and clean the bar out on both sides also dirt grit and sawdust so the bar will get bar oil 🛢 😊 it will make the chain run better and it can't be 2 tight either or it won't turn 😮😮 OMG 12 2O 2O24
THANK YOU Tinker! NOW maybe MY people will understand EXACTLY what it is that I’ve been trying to communicate with them. You’ve said more with the video that all of OUR talking even could! 😁 👍🫡
the slowmo reminds me of train cars going by. good video very helpful.
Excellent video, lots of very useful information. Thx for posting.
Glad you found it useful
A cool video would be side by side comparison of two chains cutting logs. One chain sharpened with constant depth gauge and one chain sharpened with progressive. Start with new chains and then compare cut time at maybe 25%, 50%, and 75% of chain life. Great anaysis. Thanks!
What the progressive gauge does is keep the attack angle at the correct angle. The flat constant gauge attack angle will just decline as you file the cutter away. At end of life the attack angle will less that 3
I have done test and the constant gauge cutting performance drops to 60% efficiency approximately when using that type of gauge
Gold once again digger ...thanks from NZ
Thanks for sharing well done
You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it
гениально. вы лучший учитель.
Another explanation on the progressive depth gauge is that it works on an angle principle rather than a clearance. So that being said all progessive depth gauges do have attack angles associated when using them.
If the attack angle is uniform then each cutter will cut equally irrespective of tooth length
Just catching up on this. As i said before there is 2 different theories on the progressive guages. The issue carlton identified was different to the one you discribe and that the majority of progressive gauges are attempting to correct.
The reason different guages produce different results to to suit a specific cutter geometry.
Some quick ones,
C85 requires 0.24mm extra at end of life compared to new. 0.68mm total achives this
Oregon EXL requires 0.11mm extra 0.71 total
B3EP needs 0.99mm extra 1.93mm total
These amounts will match carltons original idea and correct the issue he identified.
These amounts wont not maintain a constant attack angle. That would require significantly more to be removed
I can show this with a bit if a demonstration if you like
Yes sure make a video and explain it. At best really learn from each other. There are many things to learn as simple as a chainsaw chain looks.
3/8 OK . What about .325 RS, RM or Oregon BPX with those bumps.
If you hand file good, you will never get bumps. It's up to you to file them flat. I can't see any problem leaving them like they are.
I need the Stihl FL 3 and FL 4 but I can't find anywhere in the United States that sell them. Any suggestions
Google west coast saws in America they make and sell great progessive depth gauges
@ChainsawUsers thank you for responding I just ordered it and should get it by January 3rd. 🙂
Great you will be happy with them am sure
I found the Husqvarna combination gauge good for rakers but soft material..maybe it was faulty
You need to try to West Coast Saw version. It’s made from some sort of REALLY GOOD and HARD steel (like a very high quality spring steel) that a file will NOT ever effect. And it’s flat which allows me to carry it IN my wallet yet I never realize that it’s there. 😁
Ok thanks will do
That's the critical part the rocking motion. As the tooth wears down so does the leverage a new chain has approximately 6mm gap between the raker and the cutter at end of life it's about 13mm and the rocking motion leverage has been decreased, so more raker depth is required to make the tooth rock and bite in.
Personally - I "admittedly only occassionally" manipulate the raker height to influence sawchain aggression.
I like my chainsaw to perform 100% always and that means I check them regularly
That chain is definitely rs now 😁
Would you believe it cut better than a new one.
Yeah understand what your saying
@@ChainsawUsersThey usually do when they become “worn” because it’s kerf is not as wide. 😊
😊😊 the rakers must be the same so the wood chips 🍟 😊 are the same so it will cut the same the old chainsaw files they don't make no more or the chains either 😮😮 most files after U sharpen a chain 4 times and it starts getting slick its no good because it's no teeth left on tge file so it won't sharpen nothing not even butter either 😮😮 and the chain will the same thing U will have a tooth on 1 side and not the other then that 2 is no good no more either replace W a new 1 and the chainsaw bar can't have a burr on it either that won't let the chain cut either U have 2 use a flat file and file it smooth again U shouldn't be able 2 feel nothing W your finger nail 😊😊 U have 2 do this 4 both sides top and bottom and U should flip the bar everytime U sharpen the chain and clean the bar out on both sides also dirt grit and sawdust so the bar will get bar oil 🛢 😊 it will make the chain run better and it can't be 2 tight either or it won't turn 😮😮 OMG 12 2O 2O24
I like my chainsaw to perform 100% always and that means I check them regularly and keep them clean.
THANK YOU Tinker! NOW maybe MY people will understand EXACTLY what it is that I’ve been trying to communicate with them. You’ve said more with the video that all of OUR talking even could! 😁
👍🫡
I have found the progressive tool works well on this chain, especially with the high speed chains as the raker wears down with the chain.