Відео

Hi i have a question is it possible to use a GBS8220 upscaler to connect the rgb?

That was a great video... Makes me feel like I'm not alone poring over those 1374/4 schematics.... Thank you

I swapped out my ram chips and that solved the problem! Those would be the first thing I would check from now on. Those Tandy specific chips were probably rushed to market and may have some features that weren't meant to last 40+ years.

It works! So good to see. You give us great hope that all COCO's will live on into eternity. Thanks again.

I bought one off ebay and the video is garbled. Thanks for this video, it is very helpful.

rgbtohdmi is far better that this clear picture no jailbars.

I finally found a Magnavox 8CM515. This video was very helpful. I will be making my own cable once I receive it. Thanks

You’re a hero! I found your two videos on sprites fun and inspiring. I’m currently researching some classic game history for a book I’ve been writing. Great to see the old school tech again!

Would appreciate a link to the keycaps you used!

the circuit described at 44:16 is inverted video. Found out when I finished building it.

Good solution. Thanks for the tip.

32:44 one of the first instances of the dab.

ZIF sockets are great, you just need to make the holes bigger when designing the PCB. I don’t know why the legs are so huge, all ZIF sockets seem to share this.

where can I get these PCB's?

I wonder how the Model-I and III saved and loaded tapes? I don't think it used a DAC. Think it just output pulses. It was notoriously unreliable - nightmares of *C showing up in the top-right indicating a checksum error. Actually of course you didn't hack the ROM (because you can't write to ROM), but a copy of it in RAM. I suppose you could copy the ROM onto a new one with the new values?

I believe Manic Miner was made on this machine, then fed into the Speccys memory. Hence, the UK home computer game market became very popular

Enjoyed your video.

This is pretty cool, but there's no website? And what about the DragonFire demo from the thumbnail?

I had a similar rgb monitor for my coco3. I didn't understand when I purchased it that it was TTL rgb and not analog rgb. I could only get a few colors to work with the rgb and not the full pallete and spent most of time using the composite mode on the monitor.

This was fascinating. Interesting how old tech is new again. Very cool.

How would you use this mod with a ROM PAK like Color File or Personal Finance?

Hello, is it available? how can I buy it?

Good work, very nice 👍

Modern yes. Original no. Vintage transformer thrown away, yes. The way I do it is use an inline regulator if needed. What does the weight saving mean unless you are taking it to Mars? Power saving also doesn't matter. The amount you will save on the drive power will make it mean little. I would only throw the insides away if it was totally kaput. It's totally not an original supply now. It's the shell of one. If you want to do that just use all new cables or a new shell.

1) I think ZIF pins are oriented that way to cause minimum trauma on installing in breadboards 2) If you are NOT using 2-sided board with plated-thru holes, just ream the holes with a rat-tail-file or ground-hacksaw-blade 3) If you have the fingers of a brain-surgeon, you could grind half the pins at a time on the edge of a whetstone.

Exactly what type if diode did you use on the 1372 I.C. between pin 13 and pin 14?

An interesting project - good thing that the original was not potted :)

Go to WASD and get their template. You can custom design individual keys. You can select based on the row to match the profile needed. Definitely worth the outcome.

Very nice!

Is the next episode coming soon?

Love it

holy cow!

When you are remaking an original keyboard for the Tandy CoCo, then you could at least take out the design flaws the Tandy Corporation made. Put the ESC in its proper place besides the "1" and put the cursor keys in the form of a diamond, some Tandy computers have a few function keys, there is nothing wrong with putting them on a row where normal keyboards have them. Some special keys can go into the same row. Invent some extra F-keys, put them in the empty places in the keyboard matrix. The control and graphs keys can be placed in the same row as the space-bar, just like what now is common. Copying without improving is useless. Go for the extra mile, it can't be that hard to outsmart the Hong Kong manufacturer. Even China did it! By the way, I love the epoxy strengthener with the saw blade, that is a solid improvement!

Nice video and work here as usual! Saw the line in the description, I'd have to have the scan code and key map correctly. A mismatch would drive me crazy, and for me, it's a short trip!

Thanks for this video, my Coco2 has the same issue

I would have eventually gotten to the CoCo keyboard, but I'm happy that at least someone did the same thing that I did for the Atari 400, 800XL, the ZX81, and the ZX Spectrum. The only difference is that I will retain the original keycaps, if there are any to begin with. Nicely done here!

Just to think that little plastic box originally cost $120 adjusted...

The Atari 7800 was awesome at sprites!

Great content as always. Question: I'm not a designer by any means, but I'm wondering. When you printed the frame or bezel that houses the keyboard, in the space that is now occupied by the hacksaw blade, can you print a continuous repitition of an "X" pattern as stiffeners? I'm jumping the gun on the next question: CoCo3 Build - What are you doing regarding the GIME? Are you using an actual 86/87 GIME? Or do you have a different solution? The GIME-X has been on hold for a long time. It's sad that there are a lot of CoCo3's out there that are forever out of service due to the unavailability or replication of this one chip.

I can't wait to see your all new Coco 3 build. In the mean time you've been doing a Trojan job on the keyboard design and build. That was a great idea to use a hacksaw blade to strengthen it all up. I've got one question though, you painted the blade black, I understand that it wasn't necessary to do that, but it does finish the job well. Why didn't you grind down the teeth on the blade as well? Anyway, I really enjoyed this one, a very well put together video all round ;)

Great stuff!

Excellence project. Nice work.

There is a flat mech-like replacement keyboard membrane for both the CoCo 1/2 and the CoCo 3 called KeyFix2 and KeyFix3. This is more interesting because you could potentially use optically removable mechanical keyswitches. Thanks for the video!

Could you not just provide structural support directly in the PLA print? Use the gap for filling in with triangular structure.

Nice work with the keyboard! Looking forward to the CoCo3 mainboard build! Did you experiment with printing a zigzag pattern into the channel of the keyboard frame to make it more rigid?

Wow! Cool!

Great job

Amazing video. Didn't notice were to get the file for the 3D keyboard frame.

$40 is not pricey at all. It's on the cheaper end for ABS double-shot keycaps. It's not uncommon to pay well over $100 for a decent set. Prices just started coming down to due to high demand and increasing competition. By the way, why not map the keyboard scan codes to produce the Coco equivalent instead of relabeling the keys?

Very Cool AC. I like some of the out-of-the-box thinking with respect to reinforcing the frame.