Відео

In the workplace, you need to post at the tank your certificate showing the tank’s last inspection and when the certificate expires.

When I first started teaching stagecraft years ago, I had a short ppt early on the semester on “the mighty hog’s-trough”. We throw around lots of terminology with the assumption that everyone knows what these common things are, but a brief explanation of a term goes a long way.

It doesn’t take 6 hours to wash and dry a Queen sized comforter on the 3998. I steam wash my comforter on Bedding cycle which is 2 hrs wash. Then it’s 90 minute dry. Done. Defo could wash it on a faster cycle. The new 6998 is also a larger cu ft capacity, and as I say in other videos on the 3998, a queen sized comforter wash and dry is actually over the capacity that you can expect good performance on for this machine.

Forced perspective is going to depend on how subtle or pronounced you want it to be. Sounds like you want to err on the cartoony range of things. I think you have a range of options that will work. I don’t think there is a formula or anything like that to guide you. You just have to go with what feels right, knowing that if it is your first time doing so, you will likely err on the side of caution. So push yourself past what you think is “safe” in the forced perspective. Subtle example of forced perspective is Main Street and Disneyland. When you arrive from the gate, the forced perspective is getting larger toward the castle, so it makes everything more grand. When leaving the other direction, the road narrows, which makes you feel like the exit route is faster than the arrival, to complement your exhaustion level at the end of the day. I did a similar subtle thing in my small kitchen. I bought three sizes of drawer/cupboard handles. The largest on the lower doors/drawers, the mid-size on the drawers just below the counter, and the smaller on the upper cabinets, to try to help make the small room feel bigger. You can also look up Italian renaissance theatres with their raked stages and forced perspective environments if that helps. Though those weren’t done for cartoon effect. I would recommend distorting other parts of the shape and getting away from realism that way to get more of a cartoony feel. In 2003 I made several train cars for actors to carry in the melodrama Love Rides the Rails, or Will the Mail Train Run Tonight, and it was one car per person, so all the train cars and their wheels got stretched vertically to make that work.

And as I wrote that I was picturing ToonTown at Disneyland as a good example of cartoony with whacky perspective.

The alternating directions ensures that your cable will uncoil without generating twists and kinks and bends. The action of uncoiling from the side rather than off a spinning spool will cause your thinner and more delicate cables (audio, DMX, Cat5/6, clearcom, etc.) to develop twists and kinks similar to what happens when I drop the original coil that I pulled out of the road case (or worse kinks/twists/knots).

This is a clip from a longer video where I demonstrate three of four cables and a couple of different methods, some okay for backstage work, some not okay for backstage work. In truth, I will often bend to what the cable wants to do, particularly with 120v power cable and extension cords. If it wants to over-under, I’ll do that. Which is fine for lower gauge extension cords, but when you get to 12/3 SO cable or bigger, it just starts to become impractical to do over-under. I wouldn’t even try over-under with 4/0 feeder cable. At home I will do over-under with my garden hoses, but even those are large enough diameter that they don’t like to be coiled that way. I started doing that because I was tired of the garden hoses getting kinks in them. Audio cable is 100% necessary to do over-under. (I have a regular video demonstrating audio cooling too.) Most power cable though, it’s not necessary, and if it’s SO cable, you will get a nicer looking coil if you do over-over. I have not seen SO cable get tangled when uncoiling after an over-over method. Compressed air hoses definitely want to be done over-under. (I have a third video demonstrating air hose coiling.) Your garden variety of general purpose extension cords are good either way, but they will start to develop a memory of whichever way you train them to be coiled.

I think in the original video she might have a reason for not breaking out the hose. I wouldn’t use a hose until after I’d picked up the bulk of the paint and disposed of it first. Especially outdoors near landscaping where I don’t want that paint to run off into the vegetation.

Something fibrous and absorbent? Blot it up with rags and then rent a carpet steam cleaner and use within 24 hrs before it cures? When scene painting, I have had success at getting paint out of clothes if I soaked the area with detergent/stain remover, scrubbed with a toothbrush, and then did a heavy soil wash cycle. Need to get it into the wash ASAP, same day, the sooner the better. Needs the scrubbing and soaking first. If you get within the first 24 hours before the water-based paint has time to cure, this can work. Better to wear paint clothes, but sometimes you are wearing nicer clothes and won’t know until you get to work that you need to do some painting that day. You try to be careful but no matter how careful, some random drips and drabs almost always happen, often during tool cleanup.

You could also try a wet/dry vac to suck up most of the liquid content then do the carpet steamer process after.

You’d have to hunt down the original poster of the stitched content to ask. You would want to pick up the bulk of the liquid first before hosing things down outside. That much paint wouldn’t be good to runoff into plants and vegetation nearby.

Great suggestion! Even better!

That’s one way to do it!

I just peel acrylic paint off 🤷‍♀️

So many wood floor options these days have microbevels. I would be sad having to try to clean spilled paint out of those. If it were an older hardwood floor with cracks and checks and gaps, that would be even more painful.

Elmers glue. Let it dry over the seam and peel it back

Accidents happen

The Masonite on the top of the work table was already due for replacement. On most of our scene shop surfaces we have a sacrificial top layer of 1/4” masonite so when it gets too chewed up or covered in paint, it’s easy and inexpensive to replace.

💀

Some pigments are more likely to stain things with reds being the worst, and some blues nearly as bad. Not always able to wash that away even if you get to it early.

Its the same with red and blue hair dye😂​@@calstatelaalproductions2358

Everyone these days reaches for paper towels as a first go-to. Even for plain water spills.

​@@calstatelaalproductions2358 convenience is the biggest toxin in our society right now. It gives way to laziness and entitlement

Same process if it is latex/acrylic/water-soluble. Mop it up with a paint brush then come back with water, soap-and water, a hose with a good jet stream, and maybe a stiff bristle brush. Get it while it is fresh and after the bulk is off, what remains is easily broken down by an application of water and some form of scrubbing.

I would think letting it dry on concrete is far worse because it's much more pourous than a flat steel surface. This method she corrects with just makes sense.

​@@calstatelaalproductions2358if it's the same process, then why did you clean up paint on one of the easiest possible surfaces instead of showing that?

I recoded the footage about cleaning pain spills three years ago, but thought it was a perfect response to the original stitched video of someone trying to leave it over night to dry and peel up then later adding a coagulant. Scraping up with the coagulant was way more work than mopping up with a brush and then cleaning/scrubbing afterward.

Water.

Ouch!

It really depends on the leg method, whether it is 2x4 legs or hog’s trough or other methods. Typically up to 18” or even 24” should be fine for normal use without cross bracing. I think of you are getting into the 24”-36” range or higher, cross bracing is essential. Again, depends on your platform /design/construction and your leg type.

Awesome! Thank you so much! I’m using 2x4 platform construction with 2x4 legs. I wanted a bit more sturdiness to them. They aren’t going to move a whole lot so I wasn’t super concerned about the added weight. They’re being used for audience seating for a small performance.

Just making them for risers essentially.

I think someone commented on my TikTok post about also working in a theatre that still has Union Connectors. They were also referring to a venue on the east coast. I am a little shocked they have lasted 30+ years.

@@calstatelaalproductions2358 I think we might still even have a bakelite connector or two kicking around somewhere

It works just fine. Often when you pull it out to dump the water, the slight shift in orientation causes the standing water to drain. If bleach were used, the bleach would have been dispensed and the remaining just standing water that doesn't always drain properly. These containers work off of a gravity feed and siphoning type of process (someone who knows can tell me the name of the principle), so that when you put liquid in, it doesn't drain, until the machine feeds water, which causes the liquid to flow and get siphoned off into the cycle at the right time. The machine seems to sometimes only flush enough water into the chamber to fill it again at some point during the cycle after the original contents have been flushed through, but not enough water to cause it to also drain away.

I also do a Tub Clean every 15-20 cycles now. The LG ThinQ app keeps track of the wash cycle count for you so that helps with being on top of things. You do still need to wipe the lint away regularly; you can’t expect the Tub Clean to make it so you don’t do any daily care. But the Tub Clean does do a deep cycle that helps release the buildup around the door seal that can be difficult to remove otherwise.