Hi Greedy 3D. I just received my Reflex RS no PRM module and used PAS10 resin test printed cones of calibration. Initial setup was fine and build plate level test all ok. I have Saturn 4 Ultra and no experience with other resin printers (been in FDM many years building my own printers eons ago) so I don't know the usual sounds these fixed vats make for layers. For the first 13 layers the reflex RS made a rather loud noise when the build plate was ended descending into the vat just before exposure of new layers. Like two sounds a bit like stepper motor lose steps type sound and max force -244N. Sent a blueprint studio help ticket showing video with audio (and slice file and log file) to ask if such noises are normal. I wait for answer back. I printed the cones of calibration test print twice and same noises on first 13 layers each time. After the 13th layer the sounds disappeared and max forces on retraction to screen was about -100N. Completed the print and check screen and fep for cracking damage etc no evidence of issues so printed again and again same sounds for first 13 layers or so... Exposure seems a little low or PAS10 can't keep the detail - 1st 2 success towers closest to skull are not linked and all failure towers broken. Sword fits in skull and other parts good to show exposure is ok... just feel a little underexposed. Wonder if anyway tried other print profiles to see how they change the exposure time and levels when using the resin PAS10. I see default slicer supports settings changes but don't know if correlates to more or less exposure times to use perhaps other settings when looking for more exposure. I see the firmware now includes bottom layer adjustment feature - not tested that as parts 1st layers stuck to plate so nicely. Any input? Are there any discord or groups for Heygears printers? Wow the PAS10 resin smell is much more pungent that SUNLU standard, Elegoo Standard etc. But as I use machine vented (in a grow tent it is easier to heat printer in Canada - have heated vat but trying same setup I use for Saturn 4 Ultra) outside through carbon filter and always use mask with volatiles filters.
Elegoo is coming out with a new saturn 4 ultra with heated vat and 19 micron sizing. Cob light soirce, should be awesome and beats the resolution here by a significant amount. Wait for it, worth it!
So, now with the offline mode, you can use this amazing auto supports in blueprint studio, download the files, and print them in another printer(phrozen for example)?? Thanks for your work btw, amazing stuff
@@greedy3d480 reason? I mean, put my file in blueprint, add supports, export the file supported as stl and then add it in Lychee and looks amazing. Haven't print it until now, but I think there will be no issue. HG is amazing, but I'm in jewelry and need a better screen for the details..
Can you print more engineering type models? Or car/truck trailers railway wagons I really wanna see how this printer copes the auto supports on thesetypesof models. Thank you if you can.
Mr. Greedy, a piece of info: Firstly, thanks for testing the Offline Mode, where currently you must save the sliced file to a USB stick and walk the USB stick over to the RS to load the file onto the printer (and then printing it). Well, I mentioned on the “Figure Feedback” channel that Heygears should set up the “Offline Mode” to include a “LAN Mode”, in addition to the “USB stick” mode, for transferring files to the RS. A “LAN (Local Area Network) Mode” should allow the user to use their WiFi or hardwired Ethernet (if the RS has an Ethernet port, I don’t know) to wirelessly (or wired) transfer the sliced file to the RS without having to manually use the “USB stick” method to get a file into the RS. Well, Heygears replied back to my comment that “they are working on a LAN Mode for Offline file transfers to the RS”. If they actually do this, we should have a “software update” in the next few months to make “LAN mode” available (which means being able to wirelessly transfer files from the Blueprint software into the RS. Yeah!
Ok, I have to get something off my chest. I've had the printer since release. Yes, most of the resins work properly with the printer, but you still can't adjust anything. PARP10 or PAP10 profile doesn't make a big difference. I have often had underexposures or overexposures with different resins - based on calibration models. This printer is not the holy grail and is too expensive for the usual customer in my opinion. Well you get a free slicer that's a plus. - The printer is open on all sides and the stench spreads everywhere, this cannot be easily fixed without a tent as the gaps run at an angle. - The build platform is a pain to clean and there is always a risk of spills, not as bad as S4U for sure - The Vat feels far too flat - The slicer takes a long time to slice high-resolution models - The release module works but is really quite loud I think there are much better investments for the money for most people and the printer is being hyped far too much here. Nevertheless, thanks for the resintest - unfortunately not satisfactory without the usual calibration models...
Thank you for your comment I think everyone has an opinion and it's always good to hear different ones on the hole and I speak personally because I own one of these printers in fact I own two when I want something printed I go to this printer as I don't have to mess with settings calibrations etc I just press a button and it prints and lots of people will want that above the messing around with settings I think the seat over and underexposure comment is subjective to the individual I've recently tested other non-high gears printers having messed around for ages trying to get at least a decent print makes me realise even more how wonderful the high gears machines are again this is just my opinion
100%. If they did a small “unsupported” resin in the slicer, they would officially be the best printer. Unofficially. My jayo and sunlu resins are happy as a clam with the rs.
I used your code -thanks! Unfortunately their flash sale resins were sold out even before 5 minutes after 6. I know because I had them in my cart along with the RS and Pulse module and it said insufficient stock!
So I'm heavily leaning toward the RS. What are your thoughts on the Pulsing Release Module? Is it worth the money? seems expensive? does it only speed up print times? does it also affect print quality? Also need to decide if I want the wash and cure or do I go a cheaper route?
I have it, it’s 100% worth it if you care about reducing print dimples and using a bit less resin for each print. You just simply can’t beat the auto supports from this thing. It save me so much time just to drop files into the software and hit print. It’s truly a buy once cry once type of printer.
You mention using hot water and a hair dryer to remove the supports before the print enters the wash station. Is this procedure covered in another of your videos or is this the first time you mention it? I'm trying to get the process down - it appears you remove the print from the build plate, soak in hot water for 3-5 minutes, then use a hair dryer on high? until the print is dry and then transport the print to the wash station? Thanks in advance.
@@BrianSimpson-u2p he did a testing video! I asked the same question in the comments and broke down his exact process which he confirmed for me. Go take a screenshot and enjoy the best resin print cleaning process :)
No once the printers off the bill plate it's washed thoroughly in IPA it is at that point that I then use the hair dryer or hot water to get their supports off after that everything is cured I don't cure the supports on the model is getting them off is more difficult
Hi Greedy 3D. I just received my Reflex RS no PRM module and used PAS10 resin test printed cones of calibration. Initial setup was fine and build plate level test all ok. I have Saturn 4 Ultra and no experience with other resin printers (been in FDM many years building my own printers eons ago) so I don't know the usual sounds these fixed vats make for layers. For the first 13 layers the reflex RS made a rather loud noise when the build plate was ended descending into the vat just before exposure of new layers. Like two sounds a bit like stepper motor lose steps type sound and max force -244N. Sent a blueprint studio help ticket showing video with audio (and slice file and log file) to ask if such noises are normal. I wait for answer back.
I printed the cones of calibration test print twice and same noises on first 13 layers each time. After the 13th layer the sounds disappeared and max forces on retraction to screen was about -100N. Completed the print and check screen and fep for cracking damage etc no evidence of issues so printed again and again same sounds for first 13 layers or so...
Exposure seems a little low or PAS10 can't keep the detail - 1st 2 success towers closest to skull are not linked and all failure towers broken. Sword fits in skull and other parts good to show exposure is ok... just feel a little underexposed. Wonder if anyway tried other print profiles to see how they change the exposure time and levels when using the resin PAS10. I see default slicer supports settings changes but don't know if correlates to more or less exposure times to use perhaps other settings when looking for more exposure. I see the firmware now includes bottom layer adjustment feature - not tested that as parts 1st layers stuck to plate so nicely. Any input? Are there any discord or groups for Heygears printers?
Wow the PAS10 resin smell is much more pungent that SUNLU standard, Elegoo Standard etc. But as I use machine vented (in a grow tent it is easier to heat printer in Canada - have heated vat but trying same setup I use for Saturn 4 Ultra) outside through carbon filter and always use mask with volatiles filters.
Elegoo is coming out with a new saturn 4 ultra with heated vat and 19 micron sizing. Cob light soirce, should be awesome and beats the resolution here by a significant amount. Wait for it, worth it!
I'll keep a lookout for that it's not all about the resolution though most f the time you can't even see the difference
@@greedy3d480 And a least, the HeyGears actually prints flawlessly.
This is surprisingly good stuff, thanks for the update and the extra discount!
You are very welcome 🙏
So, now with the offline mode, you can use this amazing auto supports in blueprint studio, download the files, and print them in another printer(phrozen for example)?? Thanks for your work btw, amazing stuff
I don't think you can do that in afraid
@@greedy3d480 reason? I mean, put my file in blueprint, add supports, export the file supported as stl and then add it in Lychee and looks amazing. Haven't print it until now, but I think there will be no issue. HG is amazing, but I'm in jewelry and need a better screen for the details..
Can you print more engineering type models? Or car/truck trailers railway wagons I really wanna see how this printer copes the auto supports on thesetypesof models. Thank you if you can.
ah sorry they really arn't my area or cup of tea, im more sci fi and superheroes - sorry
Mr. Greedy, a piece of info: Firstly, thanks for testing the Offline Mode, where currently you must save the sliced file to a USB stick and walk the USB stick over to the RS to load the file onto the printer (and then printing it). Well, I mentioned on the “Figure Feedback” channel that Heygears should set up the “Offline Mode” to include a “LAN Mode”, in addition to the “USB stick” mode, for transferring files to the RS. A “LAN (Local Area Network) Mode” should allow the user to use their WiFi or hardwired Ethernet (if the RS has an Ethernet port, I don’t know) to wirelessly (or wired) transfer the sliced file to the RS without having to manually use the “USB stick” method to get a file into the RS. Well, Heygears replied back to my comment that “they are working on a LAN Mode for Offline file transfers to the RS”. If they actually do this, we should have a “software update” in the next few months to make “LAN mode” available (which means being able to wirelessly transfer files from the Blueprint software into the RS. Yeah!
Hi gears are very responsive and listen to the customers I will certainly keep an eye out for this and update as and when if it arrives
I'll have to see if I can afford the pulse or later next year
Ok, I have to get something off my chest. I've had the printer since release.
Yes, most of the resins work properly with the printer, but you still can't adjust anything. PARP10 or PAP10 profile doesn't make a big difference.
I have often had underexposures or overexposures with different resins - based on calibration models.
This printer is not the holy grail and is too expensive for the usual customer in my opinion. Well you get a free slicer that's a plus.
- The printer is open on all sides and the stench spreads everywhere, this cannot be easily fixed without a tent as the gaps run at an angle.
- The build platform is a pain to clean and there is always a risk of spills, not as bad as S4U for sure
- The Vat feels far too flat
- The slicer takes a long time to slice high-resolution models
- The release module works but is really quite loud
I think there are much better investments for the money for most people and the printer is being hyped far too much here. Nevertheless, thanks for the resintest - unfortunately not satisfactory without the usual calibration models...
Thank you for your comment I think everyone has an opinion and it's always good to hear different ones on the hole and I speak personally because I own one of these printers in fact I own two when I want something printed I go to this printer as I don't have to mess with settings calibrations etc I just press a button and it prints and lots of people will want that above the messing around with settings I think the seat over and underexposure comment is subjective to the individual I've recently tested other non-high gears printers having messed around for ages trying to get at least a decent print makes me realise even more how wonderful the high gears machines are again this is just my opinion
Wish they had a coupon off on the resin or the heated vat.
Yeah that would be nice
100%. If they did a small “unsupported” resin in the slicer, they would officially be the best printer. Unofficially. My jayo and sunlu resins are happy as a clam with the rs.
same here
I used your code -thanks! Unfortunately their flash sale resins were sold out even before 5 minutes after 6. I know because I had them in my cart along with the RS and Pulse module and it said insufficient stock!
Ah that's a shame but don't forget you can use any resin you like in it really
so I'm not a resin printer guy but if I was, I would spend the money for this printer. Its only going to get better. The Bambu of resin right?
Absolutely
So I'm heavily leaning toward the RS. What are your thoughts on the Pulsing Release Module? Is it worth the money? seems expensive? does it only speed up print times? does it also affect print quality? Also need to decide if I want the wash and cure or do I go a cheaper route?
I have it, it’s 100% worth it if you care about reducing print dimples and using a bit less resin for each print.
You just simply can’t beat the auto supports from this thing. It save me so much time just to drop files into the software and hit print. It’s truly a buy once cry once type of printer.
Well in my opinion I think it's very expensive for what it does and I don't think it makes a drastic difference in my opinion bang per buck
your link took me to a page that says 'page not found'
Thank you for letting me know I've updated it now HeyGears have changed their system a little.. there's also a $50 discount on that link too
You mention using hot water and a hair dryer to remove the supports before the print enters the wash station. Is this procedure covered in another of your videos or is this the first time you mention it? I'm trying to get the process down - it appears you remove the print from the build plate, soak in hot water for 3-5 minutes, then use a hair dryer on high? until the print is dry and then transport the print to the wash station?
Thanks in advance.
@@BrianSimpson-u2p he did a testing video! I asked the same question in the comments and broke down his exact process which he confirmed for me. Go take a screenshot and enjoy the best resin print cleaning process :)
No once the printers off the bill plate it's washed thoroughly in IPA it is at that point that I then use the hair dryer or hot water to get their supports off after that everything is cured I don't cure the supports on the model is getting them off is more difficult