Відео

I have the x100 and x60. I'm not sure whats going on with the batteries, but half the time they dont charge. The odd thing, it seems like they charge better while using the lowest quality cable/charger I can find. Like, the USB port that is on the back of my nightstand lamp will charge it, but not any of my fancy Anker PD chargers/cables. It is a huge bummer because the lights are so nice.

No way. NO WAY!!! The Sony batteries weigh more than the 3rd party batteries?!?!?! SMH😳😳😳 I was actually looking for some way to tell the difference between real Sony and counterfeit sony batteries. But I thought it was too hard to tell, so I was checking out your take on the Neewer batteries. But now, I break out my digital scale. The same one I used to tell the difference between real B+W filters and fakes. The real B+W use brass threads/rings and the fakes use much lighter aluminum. Telling the difference is easy...barely need a scale. I suppose the counterfeiters could use thicker glass to make up for the lighter aluminum, but they don't seem to bother probably figuring correctly that the average consumer won't know any better. I've bought fake B+W filters on eBay from a big seller and returned them as fakes. They keep right on selling. So, I bought some "sony" fp-nz100 batteries on ebay earlier this year. Full packaging. Sealed. I thought they were real, but I just weighed them. 75 grams each....the ones that came with the cameras I have weigh 83 grams each. What do you think? I think I've been fooled, scammed, snookered!!! 🤬🤬🤬

Hello, new subscriber from the year of 2024!😂 I am new to photography and planning to buy an A6400 with sigma 18-50 because of the f2.8. However, I was impressed by the compression effect of sony 18-135 at the long focal length. (The 70mm end of Tamron seems not a significant difference to the 50mm end of sigma) Do you have any suggetion to me? Thanks!

This is an older video, but I'm not seeing anybody explaining these in the comments. The most confusing things are Black Level, Black Gamma, Knee and Color Phase. It's best to think of all of these (except color phase) as a numerical curves adjustment. Black Level: this is like using the node at the bottom axis on a curve to lift or crush your blacks. The higher it is, the more lifted, the lower it is, the more crushed. Black Gamma: Range: this will adjust roughly where in the curve itself you put your node. Narrow will only affect the darkest parts, Middle will affect most of just the shadows, while Wide will affect all the way up to the midtones. Level: how far up or down the y axis you put that node. So if you like to lift AND crush your blacks, set a high black level and a low black gamma. Also these both affect how much detail is retained in shadows. Knee: Same deal, but with highlights. It's called "knee" because the curve kinda looks like a knee. Auto: (afaik, I use manual on mine) Max Point: how much detail you want to retain in your highlights. Sensitivity: What the camera considers a highlight, same as black gamma. Manual: Point: This is where you place your node on the curve. 75% to 105%. The lower this number is, the more aggressive the curve will be. If you put your node 75% of the way up the line and then adjust the node at the top axis, more highlights will rolloff or be retained. Slope: how far you're moving the far highlight node. +will move it along the x axis and blow out more, - will move it along the y axis and crush your highlights. Color Phase: this one's hard to explain without visuals, but this changes how the camera handles the entire spectrum by shifting it towards the magenta in the case of + and yellow in the case of -. If any of this is inaccurate, please tell me, I'd love to learn, and I hope this novel helps somebody coming to this.

Hahahah "watching b-roll of leaves". So true.

Did you consider looking at the iFootage Gazelle tripods.

Hi, friend!!! I have the same problem with my Molus X100, apparently these batteries have that factory defect. I have tried many ways to make it work and nothing has worked well for me. Should I claim the warranty or think about buying a compatible battery. Greetings.

I like newer. Two newer batteries for $45 vs one Sony for $80 at 80+% of the capacity. Seems like a good deal to me.

best ones for cinematic videos or outside vids?

hey should i get 7Artisan 50mm F1.8?

2 days ago I updated the firmware of a7IV from 1.11 to 3.01. Now I can't use batteries from third-party manufacturers. 30-40 seconds after switching on, a warning pops up that stable operation is not guaranteed and the display of the charge level in percent disappears. This is another half of the trouble - the camera can turn off at any time, without saving the recording. Even on 2 stripes it is risky to record video. Sony thus decided to eliminate competitors

Which lens do you recommend to buy between those two. I only have the kit lens 16-50mm for my A6100. I am looking to replace the kit lens for just 1 lens for fan meetings and travelling. Could you please suggest. The sigma 18-50mm zoom range would be small for me in case i am far from stage.

How about while it's on the actual unit, did you try to see if it would charge via the DC-12 volt?

Is it the new patch, the battery that broke ?

I have a Small Rig battery for my Sony RX10 M4. Lasts almost as long as the Sony battery although I haven't tested it like you did. Can also be recharged via a USB-C port that is built into the battery.

Goddamn Chinese lyier so the Neewer last almost 1/3 LESS even thought they state it's "supposed" to be the same amount of mAh. I hate how they all lie about their products and mostly on batteries or flashlights, can't trust none of them.

insane you didnt do the side by side for the detail setting

thanks a lot for this comparison! i decided to buy sony because it is smaller, much cheaper and nearly sharp as tamron.

great I find my content😂😂❤❤❤ thanku friend

I have been using Neewer batteries and products for years and they are amazing. Batteries never fail on my a7Iii a7rIii or fx30 . Nice review

Does the a7c have FL preset?

The one video that explains exactly what i needed. Thank u

Nice vid thanks! Subbed.

Тhank You. I have both chargers that are in your video. And also Neewer batteries. Yes, they work less than Sony, but I bought them on Black Friday and 3 pieces of Neewer + free charger cost me the same as 1 Sony. And by the way, Sony didn’t reduce the price on Black Friday, it was still $78. I also recently bought another model of Neewer batteries, with Type-C on the body, and an increased capacity of 2400 mAh, but judging by the tests, it lasts as long as a regular Neewer 2280 mAh. I also bought an ISDN NP2 Air charger. But it burned out after 5-6 uses. I didn’t notice that it had a lot of negative reviews on Amazon and 3.5 stars. There's a reason B&H doesn't sell them at all.

What about sony 18-135 vs the sigma 28-50?

big thanks, mmcalc dont work

Vid is a thumbs down for me Yes, it's an interesting review method, which has an appeal of a strike out comp on reality TV. However it discounts a lot of user needs and functions. How was the Aoka without the extension? Was it OK indoors, but not so great outdoors?

ps Sony seems sharper than the Tamron for me. I own the Sony....but will add the Tamron 18-300 at some point.

Great vid! new subscriber from the UK :)

GREAT FREAKIN VIDEO MAN!!!! So let me help my fellow youtube crew out... We all want that sharpness in our shots including video. So When you use DETAIL, it invites that artifactual noise in the videos. When you use CRISPING, it cleans the edges of the sharp detail thus compressing the edges to reduce the noise out BUT preserving the detail(as much as possible). So if you want that nice youtube sharpness where you get that detail like his video. Use the two and yes, it's ok to go UP this time BUT don't go plus 7. I like leaving mine right at zero with a 5-6 crisping. After trying for a year to get that sharp detail(Im new to video), I figured it out as NOBODY on youtube explains exactly how. He broke down the details though big creds to this bro! So think of the crisping as your compression ratio for the sharpness detail(let's call it 1:2:0 ratio) so for every 1 point in detail you go up, use crisping at +1 to +2 points up. Even if you use more crisping, it will soften the video(similar to how using clarity to soften photos... but for video in this case). Your glass will play a big role!

Thank you for bringing the Sigma lens to this review. Now, it's clear to me that both Tamron and Sony are more or less the same (not excellent) for low-light environments. So a massive difference between 2.8 and 1.4! It seems I'm going to buy the more universal (and cheaper) zoom Sony lens + something fixed with a 1.4 aperture for indoor

00:24 organ donations LOL subscribeds thanks for the comedy

It is hard to find a channel that discuss how small difference between f4 and f2.8 in lowlight. You did it Thank you

i cant believe you havent listed ANY telephoto lens

Very informative and well thought and made video. Thank you!

Very helpful! Thank you!

Hands down the best video i have been looking for. Thanks a lot for this video. I baught a6700 and only use it on family trips and in home videos. Slog gave me headache than i tried creative style NT with some bump in saturation and the video was almost very good straight out of camera. So now I'm doing experiment to get 2 styles for outdoor and indoor and throw the slog thing out of picture. With a6700 if i can't get my video colors right straight out, what's the Difference than with 5yr old camera? I know it has 4k etc etc, bt getting colour right is 1st basic requirement of a video

Excellent comparison. Thanks.

I was going to buy 17-70 after selling 18-135 , But after seeing your 2nd video, i just bought the on-camera flash. Problem solved. Now I'm looking to buy 24mm 1.4 and that's the only 3 things i need for family travel photography. Now I'm waiting for Sigma 23mm on sale or 2nd hand deal. I would realy appreciate if you do comparison between 23 -16-30 mm sigma line . Which 1 will be better for protraits + indoors. I dont like bokeh (Please dont shoot me ) , i feel its for those who never visit good places or dont know how to use background to make ur photos pop. Plus my wife hates it , she says i spent so much to show the place and all i see is useless blobs....... could have been done in our backyard, no 1 will know lol

You talk about not liking what a tripod looks like. A tripod is just another took just like a hammer. When you buy a hammer do you worry about what your new hammer looks like or just about how well you can hit things with it.

I have their key lights and they're amazing

Thanks so much for the comparison, I have 18-135mm Sony with 6600 and was thinking of getting 17 70 and selling Sony. I am a hobbyist, so many lenses don't make sense. But after watching your video, i have decided To keep Sony as after using it on 2 familt tours we have learnt to use it wisely , like at night i used street lights to light the face and the contrast was amazing. Plus i took a beauty of a pic of my kid at full zoom. I dont think 17-70 gives enough value to upgrade from sony . But yes u can buy if u dont have 1. So i think only thing i need is a prime lens 24FE or 35mm Apsc . If u have these 2 lens, u can click 95% family pics , vids. Dont get hyped by lens comparison and go overboard. I only use 20% bokeh effect cause i have learnt that backgrounds make pic more intersting than run of the mill full on bokeh. Background tells a story.

Sony at 18'' is really wider... I saw another comparisons on the internet, and also if shot RAW and take the corrections off, it's a lot wider, seems like a 16mm or something. Might be the smaller construction that leads to vignetting but it's pretty wide, especially compared with other lens that also start at 18mm.

Nice. Thanks

Very helpful review thank you!

Thank you ! I’ve been looking all over for videos on this lens for my Fx3

ua-cam.com/video/gy2GPe8yb10/v-deo.html < Here you are running your APS-C at ISO100, if you want to use the *same* ISO level relative to the sensor size, you MUST set your full frame to ISO300, then you will see the exposure change. You are electronically setting your Full Frame sensor to a sensitivity 1.5x less than the APS-C sensor, this will result in a lot more noise on your APS-C and not a comparable image.

Woah woah woah, ISO is calculated per square inch. So yes, ISO20 on a phone is not the same ISO as on larger sensor sizes, it's like converting from cm to inch. The formula isn't multiplying by crop factor though, it's ISO multiplied by (crop factor * 2). For example, if we take a Fuji X-S20 APS-C and a Sony ZV-E1 full frame and their native ISOs, if we convert them for the respective crop factor equivalents: 1. APS-C figures - Fuji: ISO 1,250 (640 for DR 400%) -- Sony: Dual native at ISO 200 and 4,000 2. Full Frame Figures: Fuji: ISO 4,000 (2,000 for DR 400%) -- Sony: Dual native at ISO 640 and 12,800 You can try this in practice, it absolutely works. This is a common misunderstanding but your friend was right. Tony explains why this is in detail here: ua-cam.com/video/6Im4W_9blhY/v-deo.html

The difference in focal length is about 15%, so you would expect the difference in shutter to be about 15% different too. E.g. a 100mm f/2.8 lens captures 2x more light than a 50mm f/2.8 lens :) - not sure why there was no shutter difference at f/2.8 hmm

The new ones like the smallrig one with USB-C right on the battery is pretty handy, allowing you to reduce the footprint of what you're bringing :)