Відео

Good thought, but I already checked that to make sure... I guess on the North American units, that larger cap (C52) is removed and not needed but the board designs were universal so it was included for the other regions. Thanks though!

​@@gamejaeger okay cool please let me know what it ends up being I'm curious also

Will do!

Hitachi's are rare to find so I'm not surprised there isn't much info online. And by "worse" do you mean it's still ejecting? At 6:19 you can see how the tray is in place on the top, there's not much to it though. Just a few tabs on each side to slip the tray edges under so it doesn't come out of alignment. The first thing I'd check is the alignment on the bottom of the tray though. Just to make sure it's not jumping a track or damaged in any way and maybe slowly pull it in and out to see if its getting hung up anywhere. If it is, it could be that the bottom nub that closes the tray is out of place. I don't remember offhand if Hitachi's do but I know the other models have a "track" that nub fits into and if its not in the right spot it can cause issues. If that's all good, and it ejects but sounds terrible or is stuttering when moving then I would think about lubing up the tray edges to see if that helps. If that doesn't then maybe the motor/ opening mechanism is going or has some cracked parts on it? Those would be the areas I would check to see about getting it working but good luck, there are a lot of weird things that can happen to these. Hopefully you can get it working though!

Interesting, do you need to coat it with anything to protect it after you soak it? And I'm assuming it doesn't effect the plastic at all?

@ no need to coat it. I haven’t had any issues with the plastic. I have a small Tupperware container that I fill enough to submerge the 72 pin. Just leave the pin in there around 36 hours. Remove it and briefly wash with water and dry quickly. I’ve found you can use the same evapo rust multiple times.

Very cool, I may need to try that! Thanks for the info!

Interesting, I'll have to look into that. Thank you for the tip! I know caps are a big problem in older electronics now...

@gamejaeger I've found it but I'm not sure I can put a link in a comment with UA-cam thinking it's spam.

I've made a public playlist. Hopefully that's worked and you can see it.

Excellent, thanks so much! I'm watching it right now!

No worries. Can't wait to see if it helped 😁

Thanks for watching, I'm glad I can help inspire too! That was one of the many reasons why I started this challenge. It's been super cool to see the progress over time and also to not have a giant pile of broken stuff in the basement anymore either lol. I've learned a lot throughout this year so it really helped to jump into it head first. Good luck on your repairs though, I hope they go smoothly! Another new episode will be out in a few weeks!

Glad you liked it!

True, you can do some swaps with drives and get them working again. But what’s the lifespan on any of the original drives anymore? I’ve had some success with the new drives made for the original ps1 systems but they are slightly different. (Color and length of cables) I don’t know if that would really matter if the system is working, but still something to consider. I haven’t done any software mods like that but that might be a good option too. Thanks for info!

Interesting, I did not know they made different versions of the pocket. Good to know though. Never even thought about it to check it either honestly. The previous shell was in bad shape though so I don’t think I’ll swap it back, besides it’s done and looks good so I’m ok with it. Thanks for the tip though!

Nice, I did not know that. Are you talking like butane lighter fluid or like the charcoal grill kind of lighter fluid?

Welcome!

Great tips, thanks so much! I’ll have to try that next time too. I found out the reassembly is fairly time consuming so any tips help out greatly!

@gamejaeger yes putting it back together takes some time. L2 & R2 plastic pieces are easier to snap in from the ourside. So close the controller than put them with a bit of force afterword. It will save you a lot of time this way.

Yeah, I found that out quick lol.

Greetings! Very true statement too! I have thought about it and I’m trying to work on repairs as much as possible but life tends to get in the way of most of those plans lol.

Yeah, they have been good for sure. It kind of dropped off over the last few months but still I can’t complain.

I've done that in the past but I may do this batch like normal and get another batch to put IPS screens in. I feel like it's cheating to do that towards the end of this since we are coming into the holidays, haha! Thanks for the support!

@ haha fair enough! Love the series :)

Lol thank you!

Very true. I may need to upgrade my equipment at some point in the near future to include a desoldering station or even a hot air station too. I feel like those would be invaluable going forward. Thanks for the tips!

I found some bulk versions but nothing specific to the SNES. I was hoping for one that was a drop in replacement. I guess a lot of people buy larger versions and just cut them down to fit? I was also only looking through "official" websites too like Console5, eBay, and such...

@ just search for basic ribbon wire. They are not even specific for anything. The only thing you should know is the length, pin count, pitch and orientation type. There afd Type A and B (: I‘ve ordered some Flex cables and FFC connectors this week for my bosses car radio he ripped apart, so the knowledge is very fresh in mind 😂

Haha, that's great. I'll need to check though, as always thanks for the tip!

lol

Glad you liked it and have fun! Not going to lie, it was super cool playing with the ferrofluid and a magnet. I could do that for hours...

Thank you, I’m thinking I maybe could have left it in a little longer for the retrobrite process but maybe it was just stained on the edges where those parts wouldn’t clean up as much.

Thanks so much! Glad you like them!

Thanks! It got a little delayed but rest assured it’s still coming!

Lol you need to dig at thrift stores to find good stuff, I figured that was well known?

@@gamejaeger ah I see, so he should of said the source of the finding perhaps?

The fact he said it was 6.99 and had a sticker from goodwill on it, made it more than obvious.

I thought so too

Glad it was helpful!

Why not? If your battery cover is already messed up, what do you have to lose?

Lol, Yeah it seems to be a longer lasting fix unless there’s other electrical issues or power surges that happen.

Will do! Thanks for the feedback!

Thanks, that's a good tip! I was really concerned early on with that, especially with my personal collection items. But I didn't want to hide the fact it was opened to new buyers so that's why I cut a small whole in them now.

@@gamejaeger makes sense. 😊

For personal stuff, for sure, take them off slow and make sure they aren't damaged. I really like the look of clean labels.

Yeah I read that too. I only picked up 10 to start to see how many of them were working. I guess you can test one spot on the membrane and if its over certain value, it's good. I don't remember the values off hand but I know that was an easy way to pass/ fail these. Thanks for the tip too. I may try that whenever I get back to them...

Lol. I know I should! I’m still hesitant because it takes time to learn another tool like that and I only have a few months left in the challenge.

It was Philips lasers and I got them from XYAB

Omg thank you for the comment! I thought I was crazy or just bad at the replacements lol. Yeah I’ve had a lot of issues with the Philips drives myself so it’s good to know I’m not alone. By chance where did you get the Samsung replacement lasers from? For the most part I’ve found if you’re able to replace the caps on those boards, they will work. But Thomsons and Philips drives are the worst for sure.

Glad you enjoy it!

Hi, link is in the description but I get them on eBay typically.

Thank you, I should have looked in the description.

No worries!

Exactly! You get it.

Thank you for posting this! I was looking for adjustment values and was coming up with nothing. I just found info on using an oscilloscope for the total laser replacement. I’ll have to check out that other video as well. Thank you!

Very true. Maybe the original owner was trying to softmod it to see if it fixed the issues?

Seeing how it was probably a 2001 model/rev 1 probably got returned and ended up being sold with a bunch of other warranty returns from someplace like Best buy or GameStop through an auction company and then whoever bought it tried the soft mod years later.

That’s a really good point. Just got traded off from place to place.

@@gamejaeger More than likely. I've never personally thought it was a good idea to buy a pallet of returned items off of one of those auctions, but I'm sure depending on what's on it, you could come out ahead. I feel like the biggest problem with them is the unfixable stuff, and the things that would net you such a small profit that it's not worth the time it takes to take photos, post a listing and pack it up. Then you need to have somewhere to get rid of that stuff. I seen my brother do that s***, and there a pile of stuff that is worth like five dollars or less taking up a bunch of space in my house.

It's funny because I've looked into buying a pallet of stuff like that before but I came to the same conclusion. I'm sure some people come out ahead with stuff like that but to me it seems like a lot of work without much reward. Unless you do it at scale where that's your full time business and you buy a truckload at a time, I don't see that being a good option.

Thank you, I’ll look into. Also I used to boil stuff like that long ago but it was such a time suck and the new parts are really cheap now so I just stopped just for the time it saved. It for sure works, but I always wondered how long they would be good for after that and if the heat would degrade the rubber at all too. Never really looked into it further though. Thanks for the sub!

Lol It really is…

I was thinking about using chip melt solder but figured I’d might just wait. I feel like the more stuff I fix the more I might use a hot air station, so I might just go that route. But good suggestion!

Thanks, I had read about that too. Weird that they would need to be trimmed, I feel like if that’s a widely known issue, it should easy to remedy by adjusting the manufacturing. But I guess these probably aren’t sold like newer components so they probably figure, why bother change it at this point?

I was thinking about it but I don’t know yet. From what I’ve seen there are restrictions on selling units with games preloaded on them (which makes sense) but I don’t know if that extends to the modding process in general. It seems to be a touchy subject with eBay and several other selling platforms. I’m sure it would be fine but I’m not committed to take that chance just yet lol. Besides I like the idea of bring items back from the dead versus changing how they function. Another option was to buy some junk disc drives and see about fixing those but I’m on the fence about that too. Odds are I’m going to be running into the same issues I have now though. I was also thinking about selling the motherboard and hard drive combos as replacements but that’s a process too. So we will see! That may be something I do at the end of this challenge lol

Thanks! Glad you’re enjoying it!

Sure, I can do a mini video about it maybe. What sort of info were you looking for specifically? Just the general process?

@@gamejaeger the process, applications, what other people do, what you do. Thanks!

Sounds good! Thanks for the info!

Yeah, I found that out pretty quick. Lol. My repairs are really pushing me to get a hot air station…

Really, hmm. I would never have thought that would work. I’m assuming you meant flush cut too? So do you flush cut pins completely off or do you flush cut the top of the membrane and then use hot air to remove the bits, like a 2 step process? I can try it out a few different ways, just curious if there’s anything else to it. Thanks for the tip!

@@gamejaeger I meant to cut the pins of the old connector off one by one with a pair of flash cuts, not flash to the board. Don't use hot air you'll ruin it. Just cut the small legs of the connector one at a time, it's very easy trust me

@@eduartmisiraj8031 I am having the same problem and I am not sure I understand your explanation. Could you post images somewhere?

Thanks for the info, I will have to try that and see how it goes. That would be a huge time saver if it works too. No worry about messing up the pins either.

New episode!!!!! Yay! lol

@@gamejaeger Instant comment for algorythm :D ❤️❤️ Everybody watching -> Subscribe! Only 3 months left 🫶🏻 Or will there be a Season two…? 😘

Exactly! Lol …we will see about season 2 lol.

Glad it was helpful!

It requires the absolute most basic items to do this, a Phillip's screwdriver and a soldering iron with some solder/ solder wick... I felt time need not be wasted spelling that out lol.

It's funny you should ask... I literally just ran out of the 35-36mm belts a few days ago and needed to swap out some more on a few Samsung and Philips drives I had and tried the ones from that pack. Well, lets just say it's a bit loose... I don't know what I was originally thinking but this pack was really just to get replacements for the Thomson drive belts, the smaller ones do not work for the other drives. I know Console5 sells both styles now too, so they are a good option if you just need a few of each too. I've been buying the smaller bands linked in the description on eBay and they are a good quality.

Good to know, that would save a lot of time... Out of curiosity does the label on the back get effected at all when you do that?

@@gamejaeger Not If you use the "careful cleaning" option with a low temperature. I tend to remove the labels with heat before cleaning. The "XBOX" sticker usually stays attached.

Cool, I may have to check that out with some nice and dirty shells!

Cool, I may need to check that out with some nice and dirty shells!