Good advise. One thing I always do on a first run is to do a fuel flow check at the servo / carb. This ensures that the lines are purged of any debris and that there is sufficient flow. The biggest show stopper on first flights is fuel related.
Rotax has a procedure to pressurize the oil reservoir with a few psi of air.. on my friends Lycoming, I used an oil suction/pump syringe (looks about the same size of a grease gun, but is just a piston in a tube to move fluid) and I injected a quart of oil or so into the oil gallery via an oil cooler line. Then I paddled the prop though by hand with the lower plugs out.. we had oil pressure in a few blades by hand. Easy.
Very helpful. I strongly recommend someone preparing for a first flight to get a written checklist of things to check. There are lots of things to confirm are ok, as Vic says. Getting others to look at the engine compartment is excellent advice. When they make recommendations for improvement, commit to them that you will fix them, so they don't feel like you are wasting their time. A loose hose can ruin your whole day, and there are over 20-30 fittings between oil and fuel hoses, FI spiders, pressure sensors, etc.
Quick correction. Just take top plugs out. Make sure the mixture is in cut off. Just turn on master, not avionics. Use starter switch or button and turn over to limited time that your starter is rated for. Do this several times respecting the time limit so you don’t burn up your starter. Continue until you see oil pressure and maybe one or two times after that. This should provide adequate oil coating of cylinder wall and cam shaft, etc. put you top plugs in and torque to specs. Reattach ignition wires. Close up cowling start according to POH.
I like having all of the plugs out. sometimes there is a lot of preservative oil in the cylinders. With them all out there is less load on the starter. with no load it’s very hard to burn up the starter. it will barely get warm.
Hi Vic, can you elaborate on why an injected engine does not need a gascolator? I thought it was not required on my injected RV because the tank was the actual low point. But your comment seemed broader than that. TY!
injected engines will pass water, up to a certain amount of course. You will definitely feel a miss sometimes. Carbs will not pass water. That’s why you also need to drain the carb bowl annually to make sure there are not any contaminants in it.
Perfect timing & educational. Getting closer to these big events. Thanks.
Good advise. One thing I always do on a first run is to do a fuel flow check at the servo / carb. This ensures that the lines are purged of any debris and that there is sufficient flow. The biggest show stopper on first flights is fuel related.
yep. that is one of the first items in the EAA test cards and will talk about that in a later video. thx.
Rotax has a procedure to pressurize the oil reservoir with a few psi of air.. on my friends Lycoming, I used an oil suction/pump syringe (looks about the same size of a grease gun, but is just a piston in a tube to move fluid) and I injected a quart of oil or so into the oil gallery via an oil cooler line. Then I paddled the prop though by hand with the lower plugs out.. we had oil pressure in a few blades by hand. Easy.
Very helpful. I strongly recommend someone preparing for a first flight to get a written checklist of things to check. There are lots of things to confirm are ok, as Vic says. Getting others to look at the engine compartment is excellent advice. When they make recommendations for improvement, commit to them that you will fix them, so they don't feel like you are wasting their time. A loose hose can ruin your whole day, and there are over 20-30 fittings between oil and fuel hoses, FI spiders, pressure sensors, etc.
Quick correction. Just take top plugs out. Make sure the mixture is in cut off. Just turn on master, not avionics. Use starter switch or button and turn over to limited time that your starter is rated for. Do this several times respecting the time limit so you don’t burn up your starter. Continue until you see oil pressure and maybe one or two times after that. This should provide adequate oil coating of cylinder wall and cam shaft, etc. put you top plugs in and torque to specs. Reattach ignition wires. Close up cowling start according to POH.
I like having all of the plugs out. sometimes there is a lot of preservative oil in the cylinders. With them all out there is less load on the starter. with no load it’s very hard to burn up the starter. it will barely get warm.
really good and concise video. nice style.
Good information!
Thanks Vic
Hi Vic, can you elaborate on why an injected engine does not need a gascolator? I thought it was not required on my injected RV because the tank was the actual low point. But your comment seemed broader than that. TY!
injected engines will pass water, up to a certain amount of course. You will definitely feel a miss sometimes. Carbs will not pass water. That’s why you also need to drain the carb bowl annually to make sure there are not any contaminants in it.