Thanks Vic. For those of us that are building and never really owned much less maintained our own airplane, these videos and your books are invaluable!
The biggest problem with worm style hose clamps is everyone wants to overtighten them. This damages the hose, makes it less resilient and then the clamps tend to loosen over time. A properly tightened screw style hose clamp will work as well as any other clamp and last a long time and can be removed and replaced in the field with common hand tools. Either use a torque wrench on the hose clamp, which nobody does, or tighten until the clamp ring is just flush with the hose surface or a little less. I often will use a torque wrench when using a new style clamp or a new style hose and see how much the clamp compresses the hose. Once I know that, I can then tighten with a nut driver or screw driver and be pretty close to correct without the need to use a torque wrench.
@ I was asking about your intake hose clamps. It looks like you had a spring clamp sitting next to it. I have these on my drain back tubes already- per your book! A great source of knowledge.
I can't find my stock but I'm pretty sure they are 2" from McMaster Carr. Here's th elink: www.mcmaster.com/products/~/constant-tension-spring-clamps-for-firm-hose-and-tube/
Thanks Vic. I noticed you mentioned the constant pressure clamp on the intake hose but not on the valve oil return hose. Was there a reason for this? I recently replaced my valve oil return hoses and put a constant pressure (spring) clamp on instead and it is sealed a lot better now.
I haven’t had as much luck with them on the return lines. I tried them on the helicopter with worm clamps on one side and he clamps on the other and the clamps leaked a little, much to my surprise.
Thanks Vic. For those of us that are building and never really owned much less maintained our own airplane, these videos and your books are invaluable!
The biggest problem with worm style hose clamps is everyone wants to overtighten them. This damages the hose, makes it less resilient and then the clamps tend to loosen over time. A properly tightened screw style hose clamp will work as well as any other clamp and last a long time and can be removed and replaced in the field with common hand tools. Either use a torque wrench on the hose clamp, which nobody does, or tighten until the clamp ring is just flush with the hose surface or a little less. I often will use a torque wrench when using a new style clamp or a new style hose and see how much the clamp compresses the hose. Once I know that, I can then tighten with a nut driver or screw driver and be pretty close to correct without the need to use a torque wrench.
Thanks. Very helpful! Does Intake gasket Part number in the description have a typo? Should be Lycoming Intake gasket PN71973?
yes. good catch. I’ve amended the description.
Great Viedo! Thanks
Thanks Vic. Can you share what size the constant tension clamp you are using in the intake hoses? Or where to source these?
McMaster-Carr 11/16" OD content tension spring clamp. On page 61 of my Maintenance Handbook for Van's RV Aircraft.
@ I was asking about your intake hose clamps. It looks like you had a spring clamp sitting next to it.
I have these on my drain back tubes already- per your book! A great source of knowledge.
I can't find my stock but I'm pretty sure they are 2" from McMaster Carr. Here's th elink: www.mcmaster.com/products/~/constant-tension-spring-clamps-for-firm-hose-and-tube/
Thanks Vic. I noticed you mentioned the constant pressure clamp on the intake hose but not on the valve oil return hose. Was there a reason for this? I recently replaced my valve oil return hoses and put a constant pressure (spring) clamp on instead and it is sealed a lot better now.
I haven’t had as much luck with them on the return lines. I tried them on the helicopter with worm clamps on one side and he clamps on the other and the clamps leaked a little, much to my surprise.
You mentioned wrapping your fuel-flow Red Cube in heat-reflective material. Do you have a part number or source for that material? Love your videos!
aircraft spruce 08-00600 Thermo Tec aluminized heat barrier adhesive backed.
G,day from Sydney Australia. What are the indicators that rubber engine mounts need replacing?
🌏🇦🇺
sagging, cracks, gaps between rubber and engine mount, and leaks from the silicone-filled inner parts.
How do you feel about applying Niel seal (Spruce) to each side of the intake gaskets before assembly?
I haven’t tried that as they are supposed to be installed dry.