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There are referb kits available on line, but I suggest you get them from a reputable supplier like RS Components, CPC Farnell, Mouser or Digikey as they have to be X2 rated to be safe. I can't recall off the top of my head what the values are, it's somewhere in the comments. You need to check what the ones are that are fitted to your machine.

Good luck with the fitting.

Yes it only had two shock absorbers, but it was a lot older that 2018, probably more like 2006.

@@siddhantkumar6503 Thank you for the additional information, hopefully it will help someone with the same version as yours.

Thank you. I hope you are successful.

Brilliant, just what we need.

Thank you, I hope it helped.

It would be very difficult for me to say from here. With the machine unplugged it would be difficult to check whether the relay is working or not and more importantly, if it is plugged in to test it is VERY DANGEROUS. Someone who understands will have to trace the path of the power back with a meter, but they must be very careful.

@@twotone3070 Thankyou

I'm sorry I don't understand what you mean.

I'm afraid I don't know because I've never worked on a 701. If you have some capacitors of this type in there you can't go wrong by changing them like for like. Is there anything left of the capacitors? You may be able to find an actual repair kit specifically for a 701 and if it details the component values you could them purchase they from a reputable source.

@@twotone3070 Actually Lana’s Kitchen Spares have a kit for the A701A. They are X2 caps. However, there is a 1 cap kit and a 2 cap kit so the machine has to be stripped first to check out which circuitry it has !

Hi, pleased that you are having at go at repairing it. If your machine is an A901 then on the machine I worked on the larger one is Class X2, 0.15µF 275V the smaller one is Class X2, 0.047µF 275 V. The X2 bit is very important, I suggest you use a reputable supplier.

I already knew what the problem was when I took the front off and I wanted to make the "the front fell off" reference which I couldn't do from the bottom. I have done some repairs by tilting it and it is a useful access point, although laying it on it's side means you have to pick it up again.

@@twotone3070 Ok, I see what you mean.

I never got the unit changed/repaired for the second time. It seems to be functioning correctly still after 12 years, touch wood. I don't go up there and look at the display anyway. One thing I have noticed is that the loft is a lot cooler in the summer because the panels cover all of the roof and shield it from the sun. I thought I may have had to install an external fan to cool the inverter but it doesn't actually get that hot anyway.

My pleasure.

My pleasure, I hope your search is successful.

I'm pleased that you fixed it and thank you for commenting.

Thank you, I hope it goes well for you. I don't know where the other cap sits in the circuit, but there is always the potential for it to have taken the triac out. If it has, it's irritating, but just a component that can be changed.

I'm pleased it has helped. Thank you for letting me know.

Thank you. Make sure you get parts from a reputable seller because the capacitors need to be genuinely 'Class X' rated ones. You should find it easy to do and I hope it goes well for you.

Which country are you in?

@@twotone3070 thank you for your reply! I have purchase it on Ebay! anyway I put like on your video keep up the good work thanks. 👍

I also hate waste, it's such a waste. I fear we are in a minority though. So pleased it was of some use.

I'm so sorry I didn't get back to you, I don't know what I was doing two months ago but I didn't see your comment. In reply, although probably way to late to be of any use, I would say probably not a good idea. The reason the wire broke is due to the repeated flexing in the same place, bullet connectors would be a large, by comparison, inflexible area. The points where it would be able to bend are now where the wires meet the bullets and in my view would break there quite quickly. I feel the objective is to increase the distance over which the wires can flex and keep the inflexible part as small as possible. You could replace the broken wires with a length of new wire, putting bullet connectors at either end, placing the two connections at points in the loom where no flexing is required. Off the top of my head I cannot remember what it looks like in there now. Although my offside rear window doesn't work at the moment so I will need to go back in.

That is very kind of you to comment and I'm pleased that you found the video useful. Views and likes together with comments make the video more visible through the way YT's algorithm works and I made the video to be seen. It makes me feel good to know that I have helped someone and that they took the time to come back to the video to comment. As for a donation, again that is a very kind offer, but your thanks is payment enough.

As has been commented here, it's not what they expect you to do. But I feel it's a good engineering solution to support the bolt fully over as much of the length as possible to restrict movement, as there are such large forces at work. It's not in the interests of the manufacturers or professional repairers to spend extra time doing it, they have a cost factor to take into consideration.

@@twotone3070 I think it's interesting that we both came up with the same solution to stop the bolt from wobbling in the hole! And like you, I also fitted the newer type of replacement shocks which are actually little pneumatic shock absorbers, rather than the original square section friction type. I think the proper shock absorbers work better. However, to saw the old peg at both ends, I used my oscillating saw (also made by Bosch!) rather than an old hacksaw blade, and this blade is also thinner. The oscillating saw cut through the pegs faster, as you'd expect! It seems like a very strange idea to have the shock absorber pegs moulded into the tank, although I can see how this could make factory assembly quicker...

So is yours still going strong? Mine's still working perfectly, even though it's now 22 years old! I've changed the shock absorbers (obviously!), the brushes (twice), the soap tray, & the pump, but other than that all bits are still original!

I bought mine from espares but they didn't appear to do this version the last time I looked. I do have that set recovered from the machine after it irrevocably died of drum failure.

I'm afraid I cannot see in the video how any of that is assembled, it wasn't where I was working. I don't have that machine so can't even take a look now, sorry. I hope you find what you need.

Ah, no worries. Thanks to a post on Fixya, someone very kindly explained the process. For the record and if anyone else is looking at this later, it's important that the spring is attached first - it clips on the gearbox housing itself. You know you've got it right when the lever moves correctly if pushed. Then, a little not-so-subtle applied force got the pin (through the lever shaft) into it's little groove. No-one was more startled than me when it was switched back on - and works! Thanks again.

Yes I believe some tantalum capacitors can fail, but I don't know whether it is a particular type in a particular setting. I'm going to search out of curiosity now.

I'm sorry I don't understand if this is a question?

If the Green,Blue, (Black I think from the video) resistor and the 0.047µF have blown there is a possibility that the Triac has also suffered.

@@twotone3070 Thanks mate

@@Testequip Have you managed to get it working?

@twotone3070 Yes, I managed to get it resolved.

You can to it this way, I just proved it on video. You can do it anyway you like.

You should only need to drill out to 13.5mm if the part you are putting back is that diameter. If the bolt that you are putting back is different then drill out to that size, it will be more secure.

@@twotone3070Thank's for your answer. I drilled at 13 mm and no problem. On the second one i just drilled at 13, no cutting like on your model and that was enought. And it just permits to keep a shock absorber clean as a model for the next time eventually. On this machine model there is just enought place to do things, i was even afraid the bit could go askew.

Yes, I had the BREAK warning come on and it was low on fluid, which is not surprising as I couldn't even find the reservoir and so had never been checking. Which I should have done of course.

My pleasure, hope it goes well. There are other ways of doing it, this is just what I did.

It's not related to the make or model, it's simply the age and type of the capacitor. So changing the capacitors in any device with newer ones of the correct type will prevent the old capacitors from breaking down and causing you a problem.

Sorry I've been away and only just seen your comment, have you sorted it? The new bolt has an M8 nut at the other as I recall, it's been several years since I did this and I no longer have the machine. I think I show the kit of parts at some point.

Probably best to take a look and if the capacitors have not already been changed get them changed, because it's only a matter of time. Better that you don't spend the time using it wondering it's going to go bang. People love these machines, I think mostly because they hold memories. Thanks, for commenting. Help and cooperation are so much more productive than self and conflict.

It could be that the contacts have been damaged and you may be able to clean them to make them work again. Or it could be that part of the element has fused, you'll need to do a continuity test WITH THE TOASTER UNPLUGGED to see if this is true.

My pleasure, so pleased that you were able to fix it and for letting us know.

Thanks. I hope your repair is successful.

I hope it goes well for you.

To be honest I don't know, it's not mine and I've never used one, so maybe.

I have three thoughts. 1) Your toaster is wired differently, because on the one I looked at unless the right side is down the switch contact providing power the left side are open. It's a feature of pressing the lever down to the bottom of its travel. B) There are two faults, one is that the switch contact on the right side are stuck closed even when the lever is up and the other simultaneous fault being that there is a break in the circuit for energising the right side magnet coil. iii) The magnet on the left side has become permanently magnetised and requires a small amount of force to make it release. If the left side releases with the timer as you would expect, my money is on the 1. Perhaps they are simply wired the other way round now or previously? Hope this is of some help.

How did you get on?

@@twotone3070 Hi - well it is all fixed! It seems that the model we had was not quite the same as the side that was working was the side that could not work without the other - if you see what I mean. I found another video with the right model and it showed cleaning two plates, which we did. You didn't have to remove the cover fully either which was helpful. So all done and thank you so much for your time, video and interest.

You always have the option to skip, if I don't include something you don't have the option to watch it, that's why I do it. I can't know what someone may have a problem with, so sorry this is how I do it.

I agree. There must be some cost saving advantage to this method.

Thank you.