I just wanted to say thank you for your brilliant instructions, after watching this a few times I successfully fixed our broken Breville. Saved me some money and stopped another unnecessary addition to landfill !
Thank you! I spent a frustrating morning trying to figure out which durable toaster to replace ours with (had decided on a Dualit but can't really afford one), but then decided to try to fix our toaster again (this is the second time it's broken). Found this video, and it is fixed! Has made my morning - hate waste, love toast! Thank you.
Great thanks, repaired mine from watching your video. Cleaned 4 contacts up with fine needle file and ipa alcohol, also cleaned magnets of crud. Handles i broke plastic clips but glued back on okay. For anyone doing it, you're need a long reach T10 torx for one of 2 screws, the other 4 are philips. Thanks again.
There are two screws under the slip rubber plugs on the back. Spent 10 mins wrestling with the toaster only to realise two screws hidden under the rubber plugs. Even though same model placement of two screws is different. Thanks for the video
To add to the other comments, thank you very much. I thought mine was faulty but I did not realize the right side slots had to be activated before the left.. d'oh!
Thanks mister, my toaster is now fixed. I couldn't get the levers off though, mine don't have a tab you can press in. Anyway, didn't need to remove them as I could get at the contacts without taking the cover all the way off. Gonna have my breakfast now, thanks again :-)
Thank you for such an elaborate instructions, I followed that and managed to fix my Breville toaster. For mine it was the dirt and crumbs on the contacts when you bring the lever down, I cleaned that with sand paper as you mentioned and that did the trick. Thank you so much. Bless you!
Thank you very much. This helped me fix ours. Although it was a newer model it have me the basic idea. Getting the handles off was by far the hardest part. In the end I managed it with a large safety pin. On our version it had 2 screws hidden under the rubber feet and one central screw was a tri-point screw which I didn't have a screwdriver for but got it out pressing down hard with a flathead one and turning it with mini pliers. The fault turned out to be large toast debris preventing the magnets making contact after my wife turned it upside down to clean, pitching toast crumbs into the electrics!
That's what I like to hear, simply not being put off by the first hurdle and I'm pleased I was able to help. Nice tip for removing the handles. Also maybe a tip to say, only turn the toaster away from you when turning it upside down to empty it?
@@twotone3070 Yes, good point. Just use the trays for removing crumbs and, if you do have to turn it upside down, do it front to back rather than back to front.
Hi guy I have a Sunbeam toaster almost identical to that one . I did exactly the same procedures filed the points she’s working fine thanks . Greetings from Canada 👍🇨🇦 Brampton Ontario .
Amazing video, thank you. Just purchased this toaster and it's handy to know how easy it is to take apart and fix this issue. It baffles me how some people won't even consider taking things apart to have a look to see if there's any obvious issues and instead just throw them out.
For some, money has been easier to find than the time required to learn how to fix things :( . But then no one is going to get rich using my philosophy of trying to wring every last bit of use out of everything :)
@@twotone3070 Well I think your philosophy is one I'd rather follow than the financial pursuit! My dad's an electronics engineer so I guess I get the curiosity and willing to learn about these things from him!
@@funkymunky2404 My parents grew up during WW2 and had nothing so they knew the value of everything they owned and they must have passed that on to me.
Very good and comprehensive problem-solving video. I too experienced the same defect. The lights work on the front, the heating elements all work when the switch is held down, and toaster 2 also stays down providing the switch on 1 is held down. I have no doubt this could have resolved my toasters problem, BUT, I fell at the first hurdle. I could NOT get those plastic handles off. I tried several different narrow-bladed flat-headed screwdrivers to get them off without breaking the plastic. Having tried for 15 mins or so, I resorted to calling my wife just in case I was being a bit of a biff. She too failed. The only way I can see them coming off is to damage them. I guess you must have had a little difficulty because you described the process but didn't capture it on video. Very good video though. My next step, begrudgingly, is a new one for £25 at Curry's.
I did bend one of them and actually I had already taken it apart before I started videoing, I suppose I wanted to know if I could fix it before setting up all the camera gear. I would take them off regardless as they are easily superglued back on, I know ;)
@@twotone3070 I tried wiggling, and I wiggled for all my worth! Alas, to no avail. I had to resort to breaking the plastic. To limit the damage I used a pin file, through the guide slot, to file away some of the plastic. So when it did snap it wasn't catastrophically so. I saw that the positive contacts on the right-hand toaster were darkened, whereas all the others were still shiny. As the toaster was apart I took the opportunity to file the neutral and positive contacts on both parts of the toaster. I then reassembled, tried it and it worked. This was a one-time-only fix because I followed your advice and superglued the broken switches back onto the protruding arms. Thanks for your video and for saving me £25 to replace the toaster.
Thanks for the video. I've got presumably a later model (VTT783) but most of the features are the same. The plastic handles took a real effort to get off and I broke one. The two cards inside did not have an obvious release point so cleaned the contacts in situ. When it was all back together again, it worked. Quite agree about the rubbish design comments. The fact that they have two different sorts of screw and then one of the holes was way too deep for my pen screwdriver makes it clear that the company doesn't want you to mess with it. Glad I did though
No, they really didn't design it for easy disassembly. Mine is George Home, but the internals is the same. I too am one of those who hates electronic wastage, so I am repairing mine and these videos have inspired me to take on the challenge. I broke both of the handles, and really couldn't see a way not to (I should be able to glue them back on). I try to forget they are only £25 new :)
Thanks for this useful video! You saved me trying to dig out the receipt. I have a slightly newer model but the process was the same. Some crumbs had got on the contacts and using a light air blower I was able to clean them. I managed to do this without removing the silver handles (as I didn't want to snap them!).
I did a very quick and not comprehensive search and found no Breville element spares for sale in the UK, other manufacturers have made an effort, but not Breville. Have you checked the continuity of the actual element with a meter? As an expedient measure I could suggest moving the circuit board from Number 1 side to Number 2 side, I expect you'd have to forgo some of the cord length to get it to stretch across the device and it's possible the timer lead won't be long enough. Or possibly better to just swap the element unit over. Less than ideal, but at least you'd have a 2 slice toaster. I see there is a second hand one advertised on ebay for £14 a possible source of spares? Some would say why bother, I suppose it depends whether you enjoy a challenge?
@@twotone3070 Thanks for reply. The Breville elements are hardwired in, I checked. So this would mean replacing a new element pair module with housing and some soldering. Yes one element is open circuit and I can see the break, just where some bread crumbs had accumulated in one corner. My fault I guess for not empting the trays more often! However I have found exactly the same model on EBAY for only £20 new. The original cost was over £50. At that price it's not worth the hassle of repairing the old one. Non-repairable appliances are not a good omen for the planet!
I don't use a toaster so couldn't possibly comment on the correct timing for cleaning, but your comment is a useful point for other users to note, as it seems it can be the nemesis of the element. I agree, convenience and profit have been pushed way too far up the list. Good luck with the 'new' one and thanks for replying.
Hi, Great video, Our Breville VTT911 has the same problem, but I can't get the levers apart to pull the grip off, I cant find any mechanism and I'm afraid to yank anything ???
Hi, from your description I'm not sure they are the same construction as the ones on the 702 in the video? On the 702 the metal lever has a slightly fatter portion that sits inside a hole in the plastic knob. You can very gently try to prise the plastic over the fatter bit which may result in the plastic piece retaining the knob breaking. If it does I'm afraid you'll need to glue the knob back after you have done the repair. The body then lifts off, over the ends of the levers as there is no knob to stop it. Having looked at a retail photo of the 911 I'm guessing you will just have to wiggle the knob up and down to get it off the lever, but that is a guess and for you to decide. Me, if the choice is throwing it away, I'd get the knob off one way or another and glue it back on, but then it's not my toaster. Sorry I can't be much help.
Sounds like you are going to need to take it apart, it's pretty easy, just make sure you have it unplugged from the power when you do and don't plug it back in until you've got the case back on fully. Difficult to say what may have happened inside, but if it's mechanical it should be fixable.
Mine started doing it this morning. Cleaned out the crumbs and it seemed to work at first but after a minute, a bright flash from the right slots then both sides released and it's dead.
It could be that the contacts have been damaged and you may be able to clean them to make them work again. Or it could be that part of the element has fused, you'll need to do a continuity test WITH THE TOASTER UNPLUGGED to see if this is true.
Would have been helpful to show how to take the silver sliders off. Struggling to get mine off. Also I think some of the screws on the bottom are covered by the black rubber feet, took me ages to see where the extra screws were.
Sorry about that, I had already taken mine off before I'd started videoing because I didn't set out to fix it for a video, but having fixed it thought it may be useful to someone to see what the fault was. You don't necessarily see it in the order I shot it. You just have to bend the plastic out of the way and it may break, one of mine did and I had to superglue it back afterwards.
Thanks for the video but it didn't work for me. I got the toaster with this problem already happening on the first use. What's weird is that the heating elements on both sides are working as they should, just the magnets not. I looked inside and everything is connected properly and looks fine. I really don't know what else to do. I can't return it as I live in another country now.
We should be able to narrow this down. Disconnect the toaster from the power socket. The heating elements only require the levers to be pressed down to work, so if they work and the magnet doesn't I would check the continuity of the circuit from the tap off the heating elements, the red wire on mine, to the collector of the transistor. You have to get the polarity correct as there are 2 diodes in the circuit. Do NOT have the toaster plugged into the power socket when you do this. I just had a thought, perhaps the diode across the coils are in backwards. I cannot see from the video which way round one of the two diodes on each board is, I'm assuming one is under the coil.
@@twotone3070 Thanks a lot for your comment! sorry for delay as I missed your comment somehow. I'm not familiar with these electric elements too well so I'm not sure what exactly do you mean. I'm attaching a link to a video I made that shows exactly how everything looks, connected and how it operates. As you can see I have a bit different Breville model than yours but it operates the same way. Please try to help me as I don't know what else to do. Thanks again. www.dropbox.com/s/8fd4egagcw6tkz9/20201121_114627.mp4?dl=0
@@yoavs1990 No problem, thanks for posting the video. I hope you realise how dangerous what you are doing is and I hope your electrical supply has a protective RCD/GFI device to keep you safe, because the fuse is rated at way more amps than is needed to kill you? Onto the problem, I cannot be sure but it looks like the metal plate that should come down and make contact with the top of the electro-magnet is not close enough. I think I can see the top faces (poles) of the magnet even when the lever is fully depressed. With the electricity disconnected can you just check that the top of the magnet is in contact with the metal plate? See if the other side comes down to the same position. See ua-cam.com/video/PZdmoo7buzw/v-deo.html for what I mean.
@@twotone3070 Thanks for the quick response. Yes you are right, I made a mistake but don't worry as I have the protective device. No, it doesn't make contact and I think that you found the problem as I tested the magnet and I can feel that it's working. Maybe I need to put another metal plate on top of it so they would touch one another.
@@yoavs1990 I think you would have to extend the metal plate down to the magnet. If you put a piece of metal on top of the magnet there is a possibility the magnetic circuit will be completed by it and the magnetic force outside of it will not be strong enough to hold the mechanism down. Is it possible to get the lever to go further down?
Oh man, I regret agreeing to fix my friend's George Home 4-slice toaster. She has given it to me, but since learning they are only 25 quid new, there isn't much motivation any more! It looked more expensive than it is. A nightmare to take apart, sharp edges, greasy breadcrumbs in gunge-form at the bottom of the toaster just above the trays. I am no longer thinking about the cost of it, but the fact it would be a horrible waste to throw away a working toaster. The left dual-slots would not stay down, and the ELECTROMAGNET was failing due to some gunk on it. The repair was a Q-tip taking all of 30 seconds, but the disassembly and cleaning is worse than hell.
Thanks for following the 'Cause', as you say, money is not necessarily the motivator. Mine wasn't too bad, I can only imagine the horrors at the bottom of a well used toaster. At least you will have earned some brownie points, although the benefits will depend on the ferocity of your rebuke.
@@twotone3070 Thanks for this video. I was hoping someone would take apart one of these toasters, so I could take out those two PCBs boards at the front without breaking them. I can now clean it. Hope it works afterwards!
Hmm it all looked very informative until you said that the right side (when I face the toaster) has to work for the other side to work. Our right side won't stay down but the left will. Any thoughts please?
I have three thoughts. 1) Your toaster is wired differently, because on the one I looked at unless the right side is down the switch contact providing power the left side are open. It's a feature of pressing the lever down to the bottom of its travel. B) There are two faults, one is that the switch contact on the right side are stuck closed even when the lever is up and the other simultaneous fault being that there is a break in the circuit for energising the right side magnet coil. iii) The magnet on the left side has become permanently magnetised and requires a small amount of force to make it release. If the left side releases with the timer as you would expect, my money is on the 1. Perhaps they are simply wired the other way round now or previously? Hope this is of some help.
@@twotone3070 Hi - well it is all fixed! It seems that the model we had was not quite the same as the side that was working was the side that could not work without the other - if you see what I mean. I found another video with the right model and it showed cleaning two plates, which we did. You didn't have to remove the cover fully either which was helpful. So all done and thank you so much for your time, video and interest.
Thanks very much for this video. It's very helpful. It's a pity though that the designer was a complete numpty. If you have 2 slices in the No1 side and 30 seconds later decide to pop another 2 slices in No2 side, both will pop at the same time, with 2 slices done and 2 slices not. You then have to remove the 2 slices from No1 side (as they're done) and move the slices from No2 side across to No1 side in order to finish them off! Completely barmey!
That's a very good point. It's not my toaster so I've not encountered the problem, but it does seem quite frustrating. If I were taking a philosophical view of it, perhaps they are making people take responsibility for their decisions, at least until the toast is done. :)
@@twotone3070 I'm guessing this was a somewhat extreme cost saving exercise. Trying to use one timer for both sides. I recently bought this toaster and it's being returned due to the rubbish design. Originally I was wondering if it would be possible to to feed the power directly to both sides at the same time. Then after watching your excellent teardown, I realised that the single timer unit made this impossible.
I have an issue with the toaster not staying down but the heating element remains active. What is a fix I cleaned it and it worked for about 5 minutes now isn't working again.
@@twotone3070 It's both its a slightly diffrent model i think but both sides do not work. L ike i said i took it apart nd it did work again but now it's back to not staying down?
@@thehitpack766 Well my best guess at this moment is that there is still a high resistance contact on the number 1 side. If the heating element is about 58 ohms and meant to have 240 volt across it, and the contacts were still slightly dirty or not making contact fully, hence introducing an equal amount of resistance then the voltage across the elements would only be say 120 volt. Enough to warm them up but giving only half the voltage at the tap for the electronics and hold down coil. Every time it operates it burns the contacts a little bit more making the situation worse until it doesn't work. I'm afraid without getting in there with a meter and proving continuity of the hold down circuit or heaven forbid checking voltages with it open (VERY DANGEROUS) I can only speculate. I'm sorry I don't have anything more concrete for you.
@@twotone3070 The heating works but it won't stay down. I did clean it the magnetic part and it worked. It broke because someone put a large piece of bread in which got stuck then removed it with a knife. I was told it was unplugged at the time so i'm not 100% sure. Would one of the pieces maybe have short circuted?
@@thehitpack766 If you stuck a knife in when it was on you'd probably be dead now or possibly blind from it spitting molten metal. I think all you can do is UNPLUG it, not just switch it off, take it apart and clean the SWITCH CONTACTS again as I show in the video. Cleaning the electro magnet would only help it it was sticking down and this is not. I repeat, if you touch this with it plugged in you may DIE.
I believe it is a timer, the only electrical connections to the area near the bread are for the element. I could not see any sensors, see the circuit diagram near the end.
Tried cleaning the contacts and still didnt work. any ideas? its not staying down when pushing down the slider and no light on. fuse in plug is fine as checked it on another device.
Do you have a continuity tester? With it unplugged, NOT just switched off, do the contacts on the Number 1 side clearly make when the lever is depressed?
@@markypeck I would use the continuity tester to work my way round the circuit as per the diagram at the end, at least to start with. Making sure you have it unplugged of course.
If the right side is down and working, does the left side heat up if you hold the lever down? If so, it's probably not the switch contacts on the left side, although making sure they are clean and making good contact is important. If it doesn't, it's possibly the left side switch contacts, but could be the left side heating elements. Please make sure you remove the plug from the wall before taking the lid off as just switching it off will not disconnect the neutral from the toaster on a standard UK socket.
It's as simple as prize them off, they may break, but there is no trick to it. Then you superglue them back on if they do, that's what I did with one of them.
Thanks for the video, mine is now up and running. I too had a problem getting the handles off but I ended up just prising them off and glueing them back on afterwards.
By the amount of views I'm convinced not to purchase another Breville toaster! I have a different model that I purchased a year and a half ago that wont work now. And the company will not replace. Why would I buy another??
I understand your viewpoint there. I would of course just think of it as an opportunity to take it apart, but then I'm not normal. Obviously I don't know the symptoms you have there but it could be as simple as a bit of toast in the contacts.
@@twotone3070 .Yes, I'm not normal as well. I will take it apart as soon as I'm sure Breville will not stand behind their product. and I find a replacement They could not offer any support with manuals or tech support.so I am on my own.
I just wanted to say thank you for your brilliant instructions, after watching this a few times I successfully fixed our broken Breville.
Saved me some money and stopped another unnecessary addition to landfill !
Excellent news, saved from landfill comment should get 2 hearts. Thank you.
Thank you! I spent a frustrating morning trying to figure out which durable toaster to replace ours with (had decided on a Dualit but can't really afford one), but then decided to try to fix our toaster again (this is the second time it's broken). Found this video, and it is fixed! Has made my morning - hate waste, love toast! Thank you.
I also hate waste, it's such a waste. I fear we are in a minority though.
So pleased it was of some use.
Great thanks, repaired mine from watching your video. Cleaned 4 contacts up with fine needle file and ipa alcohol, also cleaned magnets of crud. Handles i broke plastic clips but glued back on okay. For anyone doing it, you're need a long reach T10 torx for one of 2 screws, the other 4 are philips. Thanks again.
My pleasure, so pleased that you were able to fix it and for letting us know.
There are two screws under the slip rubber plugs on the back. Spent 10 mins wrestling with the toaster only to realise two screws hidden under the rubber plugs. Even though same model placement of two screws is different. Thanks for the video
@@siddhantkumar6503 Thank you for the additional information, hopefully it will help someone with the same version as yours.
Thanks so much for your excellent video! Another toaster saved from the dump... ;)
Brilliant, just what we need.
This was very helpful. It worked for me. Bread crumbs on the magnets.
Bad design I think letting crumbs fall on them parts.
Thank you for your video 👍
Thank you.
To add to the other comments, thank you very much. I thought mine was faulty but I did not realize the right side slots had to be activated before the left.. d'oh!
Thanks mister, my toaster is now fixed. I couldn't get the levers off though, mine don't have a tab you can press in. Anyway, didn't need to remove them as I could get at the contacts without taking the cover all the way off.
Gonna have my breakfast now, thanks again :-)
I'm pleased it was of some help and many thanks for letting me know, it makes a difference.
Thank you for such an elaborate instructions, I followed that and managed to fix my Breville toaster. For mine it was the dirt and crumbs on the contacts when you bring the lever down, I cleaned that with sand paper as you mentioned and that did the trick. Thank you so much. Bless you!
I'm pleased that you fixed it and thank you for commenting.
Thank you very much. This helped me fix ours. Although it was a newer model it have me the basic idea. Getting the handles off was by far the hardest part. In the end I managed it with a large safety pin. On our version it had 2 screws hidden under the rubber feet and one central screw was a tri-point screw which I didn't have a screwdriver for but got it out pressing down hard with a flathead one and turning it with mini pliers. The fault turned out to be large toast debris preventing the magnets making contact after my wife turned it upside down to clean, pitching toast crumbs into the electrics!
That's what I like to hear, simply not being put off by the first hurdle and I'm pleased I was able to help. Nice tip for removing the handles. Also maybe a tip to say, only turn the toaster away from you when turning it upside down to empty it?
@@twotone3070 Yes, good point. Just use the trays for removing crumbs and, if you do have to turn it upside down, do it front to back rather than back to front.
Hi guy I have a Sunbeam toaster almost identical to that one . I did exactly the same procedures filed the points she’s working fine thanks . Greetings from Canada 👍🇨🇦 Brampton Ontario .
Hi Al, pleased it was of some use and many thanks for letting me know. Hope you're keeping warm over there.
Thanks again . Yes it’s. Getting cold going down to -21 c Monday night it’s -8c right now .
@@alward9901 Good job you fixed the toaster then, give you something to huddle round to keep warm.
Amazing video, thank you. Just purchased this toaster and it's handy to know how easy it is to take apart and fix this issue. It baffles me how some people won't even consider taking things apart to have a look to see if there's any obvious issues and instead just throw them out.
For some, money has been easier to find than the time required to learn how to fix things :( . But then no one is going to get rich using my philosophy of trying to wring every last bit of use out of everything :)
@@twotone3070 Well I think your philosophy is one I'd rather follow than the financial pursuit! My dad's an electronics engineer so I guess I get the curiosity and willing to learn about these things from him!
@@funkymunky2404 My parents grew up during WW2 and had nothing so they knew the value of everything they owned and they must have passed that on to me.
Thank you. I have the very same model which packed in just out of Warranty. Your video was exactly what I needed to tackle the repair.
Thanks for letting me know, makes it worthwhile.
I was about to throw my toaster away until I saw this video. I fixed it!
Thank you so much for putting this video together. Saves money and waste.
My pleasure, excellent news.
Just did this and it works again, thanks a lot you saved me some quids. Also 2 of the screws were hidden behind rubber feet on my model.
Good to know you saved it from scrap and the extra info, thanks.
Very good and comprehensive problem-solving video.
I too experienced the same defect.
The lights work on the front, the heating elements all work when the switch is held down, and toaster 2 also stays down providing the switch on 1 is held down.
I have no doubt this could have resolved my toasters problem, BUT, I fell at the first hurdle.
I could NOT get those plastic handles off.
I tried several different narrow-bladed flat-headed screwdrivers to get them off without breaking the plastic.
Having tried for 15 mins or so, I resorted to calling my wife just in case I was being a bit of a biff.
She too failed.
The only way I can see them coming off is to damage them.
I guess you must have had a little difficulty because you described the process but didn't capture it on video.
Very good video though.
My next step, begrudgingly, is a new one for £25 at Curry's.
I did bend one of them and actually I had already taken it apart before I started videoing, I suppose I wanted to know if I could fix it before setting up all the camera gear. I would take them off regardless as they are easily superglued back on, I know ;)
You could try repeatedly wiggling them, using the abrasive nature of the metal to wear enough slack to get some movement.
@@twotone3070 I tried wiggling, and I wiggled for all my worth!
Alas, to no avail.
I had to resort to breaking the plastic.
To limit the damage I used a pin file, through the guide slot, to file away some of the plastic.
So when it did snap it wasn't catastrophically so.
I saw that the positive contacts on the right-hand toaster were darkened, whereas all the others were still shiny.
As the toaster was apart I took the opportunity to file the neutral and positive contacts on both parts of the toaster.
I then reassembled, tried it and it worked.
This was a one-time-only fix because I followed your advice and superglued the broken switches back onto the protruding arms.
Thanks for your video and for saving me £25 to replace the toaster.
Great news, another one saved and for the sake of a bit of effort and some super glue.
Thanks for the video. I've got presumably a later model (VTT783) but most of the features are the same. The plastic handles took a real effort to get off and I broke one. The two cards inside did not have an obvious release point so cleaned the contacts in situ. When it was all back together again, it worked. Quite agree about the rubbish design comments. The fact that they have two different sorts of screw and then one of the holes was way too deep for my pen screwdriver makes it clear that the company doesn't want you to mess with it. Glad I did though
Good to hear you got it working, shame about the handles, I didn't actually video taking them off, that's the magic of television. :)
No, they really didn't design it for easy disassembly. Mine is George Home, but the internals is the same. I too am one of those who hates electronic wastage, so I am repairing mine and these videos have inspired me to take on the challenge. I broke both of the handles, and really couldn't see a way not to (I should be able to glue them back on). I try to forget they are only £25 new :)
Excellent video very informative was just about to bin the toaster now works perfectly thank you very much 👍👍
My pleasure, thank you for telling us of your success, it's very much appreciated.
Very helpful , very well explained, sorted my Breville double toaster which had similar fault, Thanks
Thank you, I'm pleased you were able to resolve the problem and that I was able to help in some way.
Have the same toaster. Worked 100%. Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to let me know, it makes it worth doing. I'm pleased it worked. I was wondering who'd been looking at the video so often :)
Thanks for this useful video! You saved me trying to dig out the receipt. I have a slightly newer model but the process was the same. Some crumbs had got on the contacts and using a light air blower I was able to clean them. I managed to do this without removing the silver handles (as I didn't want to snap them!).
That's good to know thanks.
Very helpful. Thank you.
My pleasure and thank you for saying so.
I have discovered you get exactly the same symptoms if a heater element fails. Now how do you replace one of those I wonder?
I did a very quick and not comprehensive search and found no Breville element spares for sale in the UK, other manufacturers have made an effort, but not Breville. Have you checked the continuity of the actual element with a meter?
As an expedient measure I could suggest moving the circuit board from Number 1 side to Number 2 side, I expect you'd have to forgo some of the cord length to get it to stretch across the device and it's possible the timer lead won't be long enough. Or possibly better to just swap the element unit over. Less than ideal, but at least you'd have a 2 slice toaster.
I see there is a second hand one advertised on ebay for £14 a possible source of spares? Some would say why bother, I suppose it depends whether you enjoy a challenge?
@@twotone3070 Thanks for reply. The Breville elements are hardwired in, I checked. So this would mean replacing a new element pair module with housing and some soldering. Yes one element is open circuit and I can see the break, just where some bread crumbs had accumulated in one corner. My fault I guess for not empting the trays more often!
However I have found exactly the same model on EBAY for only £20 new. The original cost was over £50. At that price it's not worth the hassle of repairing the old one. Non-repairable appliances are not a good omen for the planet!
I don't use a toaster so couldn't possibly comment on the correct timing for cleaning, but your comment is a useful point for other users to note, as it seems it can be the nemesis of the element. I agree, convenience and profit have been pushed way too far up the list. Good luck with the 'new' one and thanks for replying.
Alas for some reason the seller cancelled. Argos still sale for £35.
Hi, Great video, Our Breville VTT911 has the same problem, but I can't get the levers apart to pull the grip off, I cant find any mechanism and I'm afraid to yank anything ???
Hi, from your description I'm not sure they are the same construction as the ones on the 702 in the video?
On the 702 the metal lever has a slightly fatter portion that sits inside a hole in the plastic knob. You can very gently try to prise the plastic over the fatter bit which may result in the plastic piece retaining the knob breaking. If it does I'm afraid you'll need to glue the knob back after you have done the repair.
The body then lifts off, over the ends of the levers as there is no knob to stop it.
Having looked at a retail photo of the 911 I'm guessing you will just have to wiggle the knob up and down to get it off the lever, but that is a guess and for you to decide. Me, if the choice is throwing it away, I'd get the knob off one way or another and glue it back on, but then it's not my toaster.
Sorry I can't be much help.
@@twotone3070 By replying, you were a great help, thank you.
Hi my left side stops halfway, so can't activate elements - can you please advice?
Sounds like you are going to need to take it apart, it's pretty easy, just make sure you have it unplugged from the power when you do and don't plug it back in until you've got the case back on fully. Difficult to say what may have happened inside, but if it's mechanical it should be fixable.
@@twotone3070 thanks 🙏
@@Lenoire79 Let us know what you find :)
Thank u this worked a treat.
Pleased to hear it, thanks for letting us know.
Mine started doing it this morning. Cleaned out the crumbs and it seemed to work at first but after a minute, a bright flash from the right slots then both sides released and it's dead.
It could be that the contacts have been damaged and you may be able to clean them to make them work again. Or it could be that part of the element has fused, you'll need to do a continuity test WITH THE TOASTER UNPLUGGED to see if this is true.
Would have been helpful to show how to take the silver sliders off. Struggling to get mine off.
Also I think some of the screws on the bottom are covered by the black rubber feet, took me ages to see where the extra screws were.
Sorry about that, I had already taken mine off before I'd started videoing because I didn't set out to fix it for a video, but having fixed it thought it may be useful to someone to see what the fault was. You don't necessarily see it in the order I shot it.
You just have to bend the plastic out of the way and it may break, one of mine did and I had to superglue it back afterwards.
Thanks for the video but it didn't work for me.
I got the toaster with this problem already happening on the first use. What's weird is that the heating elements on both sides are working as they should, just the magnets not.
I looked inside and everything is connected properly and looks fine. I really don't know what else to do.
I can't return it as I live in another country now.
We should be able to narrow this down. Disconnect the toaster from the power socket. The heating elements only require the levers to be pressed down to work, so if they work and the magnet doesn't I would check the continuity of the circuit from the tap off the heating elements, the red wire on mine, to the collector of the transistor. You have to get the polarity correct as there are 2 diodes in the circuit. Do NOT have the toaster plugged into the power socket when you do this.
I just had a thought, perhaps the diode across the coils are in backwards. I cannot see from the video which way round one of the two diodes on each board is, I'm assuming one is under the coil.
@@twotone3070 Thanks a lot for your comment! sorry for delay as I missed your comment somehow.
I'm not familiar with these electric elements too well so I'm not sure what exactly do you mean. I'm attaching a link to a video I made that shows exactly how everything looks, connected and how it operates. As you can see I have a bit different Breville model than yours but it operates the same way.
Please try to help me as I don't know what else to do. Thanks again.
www.dropbox.com/s/8fd4egagcw6tkz9/20201121_114627.mp4?dl=0
@@yoavs1990 No problem, thanks for posting the video. I hope you realise how dangerous what you are doing is and I hope your electrical supply has a protective RCD/GFI device to keep you safe, because the fuse is rated at way more amps than is needed to kill you?
Onto the problem, I cannot be sure but it looks like the metal plate that should come down and make contact with the top of the electro-magnet is not close enough. I think I can see the top faces (poles) of the magnet even when the lever is fully depressed.
With the electricity disconnected can you just check that the top of the magnet is in contact with the metal plate? See if the other side comes down to the same position.
See ua-cam.com/video/PZdmoo7buzw/v-deo.html for what I mean.
@@twotone3070 Thanks for the quick response.
Yes you are right, I made a mistake but don't worry as I have the protective device.
No, it doesn't make contact and I think that you found the problem as I tested the magnet and I can feel that it's working. Maybe I need to put another metal plate on top of it so they would touch one another.
@@yoavs1990 I think you would have to extend the metal plate down to the magnet. If you put a piece of metal on top of the magnet there is a possibility the magnetic circuit will be completed by it and the magnetic force outside of it will not be strong enough to hold the mechanism down. Is it possible to get the lever to go further down?
Oh man, I regret agreeing to fix my friend's George Home 4-slice toaster. She has given it to me, but since learning they are only 25 quid new, there isn't much motivation any more! It looked more expensive than it is. A nightmare to take apart, sharp edges, greasy breadcrumbs in gunge-form at the bottom of the toaster just above the trays. I am no longer thinking about the cost of it, but the fact it would be a horrible waste to throw away a working toaster. The left dual-slots would not stay down, and the ELECTROMAGNET was failing due to some gunk on it. The repair was a Q-tip taking all of 30 seconds, but the disassembly and cleaning is worse than hell.
Thanks for following the 'Cause', as you say, money is not necessarily the motivator.
Mine wasn't too bad, I can only imagine the horrors at the bottom of a well used toaster.
At least you will have earned some brownie points, although the benefits will depend on the ferocity of your rebuke.
@@twotone3070 Thanks for this video. I was hoping someone would take apart one of these toasters, so I could take out those two PCBs boards at the front without breaking them. I can now clean it. Hope it works afterwards!
Hmm it all looked very informative until you said that the right side (when I face the toaster) has to work for the other side to work. Our right side won't stay down but the left will. Any thoughts please?
I have three thoughts.
1) Your toaster is wired differently, because on the one I looked at unless the right side is down the switch contact providing power the left side are open. It's a feature of pressing the lever down to the bottom of its travel.
B) There are two faults, one is that the switch contact on the right side are stuck closed even when the lever is up and the other simultaneous fault being that there is a break in the circuit for energising the right side magnet coil.
iii) The magnet on the left side has become permanently magnetised and requires a small amount of force to make it release.
If the left side releases with the timer as you would expect, my money is on the 1. Perhaps they are simply wired the other way round now or previously?
Hope this is of some help.
How did you get on?
@@twotone3070 Hi - well it is all fixed! It seems that the model we had was not quite the same as the side that was working was the side that could not work without the other - if you see what I mean. I found another video with the right model and it showed cleaning two plates, which we did. You didn't have to remove the cover fully either which was helpful. So all done and thank you so much for your time, video and interest.
Thanks very much for this video. It's very helpful. It's a pity though that the designer was a complete numpty. If you have 2 slices in the No1 side and 30 seconds later decide to pop another 2 slices in No2 side, both will pop at the same time, with 2 slices done and 2 slices not. You then have to remove the 2 slices from No1 side (as they're done) and move the slices from No2 side across to No1 side in order to finish them off! Completely barmey!
That's a very good point. It's not my toaster so I've not encountered the problem, but it does seem quite frustrating. If I were taking a philosophical view of it, perhaps they are making people take responsibility for their decisions, at least until the toast is done. :)
@@twotone3070 I'm guessing this was a somewhat extreme cost saving exercise. Trying to use one timer for both sides. I recently bought this toaster and it's being returned due to the rubbish design.
Originally I was wondering if it would be possible to to feed the power directly to both sides at the same time. Then after watching your excellent teardown, I realised that the single timer unit made this impossible.
Please don't tell them it was me, I wouldn't want Breville sending the boys round.
@@twotone3070 they might only send one boy round as two might be too expensive👍
I have an issue with the toaster not staying down but the heating element remains active. What is a fix I cleaned it and it worked for about 5 minutes now isn't working again.
Hi. Is that one side or both?
@@twotone3070 It's both its a slightly diffrent model i think but both sides do not work. L ike i said i took it apart nd it did work again but now it's back to not staying down?
@@thehitpack766 Well my best guess at this moment is that there is still a high resistance contact on the number 1 side. If the heating element is about 58 ohms and meant to have 240 volt across it, and the contacts were still slightly dirty or not making contact fully, hence introducing an equal amount of resistance then the voltage across the elements would only be say 120 volt. Enough to warm them up but giving only half the voltage at the tap for the electronics and hold down coil. Every time it operates it burns the contacts a little bit more making the situation worse until it doesn't work.
I'm afraid without getting in there with a meter and proving continuity of the hold down circuit or heaven forbid checking voltages with it open (VERY DANGEROUS) I can only speculate. I'm sorry I don't have anything more concrete for you.
@@twotone3070 The heating works but it won't stay down. I did clean it the magnetic part and it worked. It broke because someone put a large piece of bread in which got stuck then removed it with a knife. I was told it was unplugged at the time so i'm not 100% sure. Would one of the pieces maybe have short circuted?
@@thehitpack766 If you stuck a knife in when it was on you'd probably be dead now or possibly blind from it spitting molten metal. I think all you can do is UNPLUG it, not just switch it off, take it apart and clean the SWITCH CONTACTS again as I show in the video. Cleaning the electro magnet would only help it it was sticking down and this is not. I repeat, if you touch this with it plugged in you may DIE.
I'm just about to lift the bonnet thank you
Good luck, it's not too difficult, just remember to unplug it and don't be tempted to plug it back in until the cover is fully replaced.
Does it has timer or sensor for the release mechanism?
I believe it is a timer, the only electrical connections to the area near the bread are for the element. I could not see any sensors, see the circuit diagram near the end.
Tried cleaning the contacts and still didnt work. any ideas? its not staying down when pushing down the slider and no light on. fuse in plug is fine as checked it on another device.
Do you have a continuity tester? With it unplugged, NOT just switched off, do the contacts on the Number 1 side clearly make when the lever is depressed?
@@twotone3070 no but i can get one easily. yes they touch tightly like in your vid when the lever is pulled down.
@@markypeck I would use the continuity tester to work my way round the circuit as per the diagram at the end, at least to start with. Making sure you have it unplugged of course.
How have you got on with the repair?
@@twotone3070 no good im afraid. looks like theres power going to the contacts but nothing after that. cleaned the contacts thoroughly but no joy. :(
I have the same model number and the inside is completely different....I'm just going to throw it in the bin....!😂
Right side works fine it's only the left side that dont work
If the right side is down and working, does the left side heat up if you hold the lever down? If so, it's probably not the switch contacts on the left side, although making sure they are clean and making good contact is important.
If it doesn't, it's possibly the left side switch contacts, but could be the left side heating elements. Please make sure you remove the plug from the wall before taking the lid off as just switching it off will not disconnect the neutral from the toaster on a standard UK socket.
I'll give it a try cheers
Left side only holds in when right side has toast is in, says that in instructions
@@ianmccabe2222 Yes, you can see why this is the case from my circuit diagram, they are electrically interlocked. :)
Unless for me as there was no detail on the first important problem, getting the knobs off. I had to give up. Sorry mate no use to me!!!
It's as simple as prize them off, they may break, but there is no trick to it. Then you superglue them back on if they do, that's what I did with one of them.
@@twotone3070 thanks I going to use a rubber wedge to hold it down for now. One of the magnet 'plates' is off its base, I can see it
@@neilalexander7723 I would be a bit wary of pinning the arm down as accidentally leaving it to long could cause the bread to catch fire.
Thanks for the video, mine is now up and running. I too had a problem getting the handles off but I ended up just prising them off and glueing them back on afterwards.
@@Rockwell21 So pleased you found it useful. Thank you for commenting.
By the amount of views I'm convinced not to purchase another Breville toaster! I have a different model that I purchased a year and a half ago that wont work now. And the company will not replace. Why would I buy another??
I understand your viewpoint there. I would of course just think of it as an opportunity to take it apart, but then I'm not normal. Obviously I don't know the symptoms you have there but it could be as simple as a bit of toast in the contacts.
@@twotone3070 .Yes, I'm not normal as well. I will take it apart as soon as I'm sure Breville will not stand behind their product. and I find a replacement They could not offer any support with manuals or tech support.so I am on my own.