Elliott Progress No2GS Pillar Drill Complete Overhaul - Restoration Series Ep2
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- Опубліковано 11 тра 2022
- Episode two of my running restoration series and what a challenge compared with the last!
Here we are completely overhauling an old and tired pillar drill with a view to making it at least as good as new. It’s not a straightforward refurb with a few trickier repairs but I’m sure you’ll agree the results are worth the effort.
Bearing details as follows:
ID OD Height
Quill
EE5 5/8” 1-3/8” 9/32”
LDJT25 25mm 52mm 20.6mm
Gearbox quill shaft
S9R 7/8 1-7/8” 3/8
S9R 7/8 1-7/8” 3/8
Gearbox main shaft
KLNJ1-3/8 1-3/8” 2-1/2” 7/16”
KLNJ1-3/8 1-3/8” 2-1/2” 7/16”
Gearbox second shaft
KLNJ3/4 3/4” 1-5/8” 5/16”
KLNJ3/4 3/4” 1-5/8” 5/16”
Shaft seal single lip
13708725R4 7/8 1-3/8” 1/4”
13708725R4 7/8 1-3/8” 1/4”
Circlip
1” / 25mm
5/8” / 16mm
Pressing dollies should be 0.020” larger or smaller than internal / external diameters of the bearings with a recommended wall thickness of at least 0.120”
O-ring is a number 012 (3/8” x 0.070”), metric equivalent would be 9.5mm x 1.8mm
Gasket used was general purpose 0.5mm thick but 1mm would suffice. I’d avoid anything thicker unless you wanted to use an oil resistant rubber / nitrile / neoprene.
Jacking screws were 5/16” bsw and 3/8” bsw.
Imperial Allen keys are a must!
Brilliant video and a lovely restoration.
I have a 2G which is very original and generally in good condition but does leak oil from the usual places. I bear with it as, while it's messy, I have been put off dismantling and disabling the machine to change the seals. Also as you say, the oil leak is a good reminder that there it oil to leak, and it keeps things from rusting etc. You even get a bit of cutting lube sometimes whether you want it or not!
Armed with even better understanding of the assembly from this video than I had before, I might consider changing the seals in the future. Thank you for this and for listing the parts you used, Will watch again I'm sure!
Really glad to hear it was useful to you! Thank you for leaving a comment.
The seals are really easy to do and doesn’t require any strip down of the gearbox. All you need to do is withdraw the quill and they can be accessed the same way as detailed in this video.
You should also see my latest posting which addresses the common leak point from the speed change handle.
And yes, that oil serves a dual purpose when there is a slight leak!! Just remember to top it up now and again! Although I fear many run without a drop for many years…
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776
I did see the second video about the gear change o ring. A good idea to doulbe it up. My lathe is an ancient toy, it would be a lep of faith to try the same but I might just do it. Would be good to get it oil tight again.
👍
Very good job , it’s very very worth while maintaining restoring and cherishing these beautiful old British machines as they were made far far better than any modern throw away machines , very nice job
Nice little video. Trying to find how to disassemble a Union PD8, there’s no love for them apparently, but they seem more complicated than Meddings or Progress drills.
Looks lovely, and these machines are well made for sure. Missus asked why not get a Clarke one, she just doesn’t understand.
Oil leaks on old equipment are mandatory, doesn’t matter how well you seal them. And it’s so much more quiet, that’s my goal on mine.
Thank you, appreciate the comment! I never could understand that, those unions are a good drill. Is that the two speed option with the spindle back gear? I’ve always fancied one just because they are great value.
From photos of the drill they look like the case splits in two, but I wouldn’t like to suggest that’s how it’s done because I haven’t had my hands on one. Good luck with your refurb!
And yes I 100% agree all old equipment should have a very minor oil leak. That way you know when it hasn’t got any left!! And it keeps the rust off…
And yes, the modern stuff just doesn’t compare. And in many instances is more expensive!!
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 It is indeed the two speed. The case is one piece, well two pieces cast together, and finished with filler. Had some WD40 in a thread for the lid, screwed in the screw, and hydrauliced the filler out underneath, it pushed back in. There’s an awkward hidden circlip, accessed from the top panel, where the belt is, it holds the dog clutch gear in place on the shaft..
Need a replacement motor, this one can’t be rewired, and I’m not going to start delving inside windings.
240v 3 phase for a VFD, saves messing with the belt.
@dieselhatz4247 ah fair enough, I hadn’t really looked too closely. The Elliott wasn’t exactly straightforward but it sounds a little more intuitive than the union!
They are a nice little compact unit with a great range of speeds. Should serve you well for many years with a bit of a fettle!
Keep your eye out for a single phase motor, often the shaft diameters are the same so it’s only a case of swapping it over. Obviously the vfd adds an even greater range of speed! I went down the phase converter route so I didn’t need multiple vfd’s.
Darn nice job!
"Tappy tap, tap"! Quinn Dunkly really has a lot to answer too.
Real nice job though, those Progress drills were really well built. A nice one will set you back a good number of beer vouchers even now, I have seen some well over 1K.
I don’t know that reference, it was more a nod to AvE, I’ll have to look that one up! Yes they are, it’s great to see the old British stuff commanding good money. Goes to show a quality drill done properly really will last a lifetime. I think most of my heavy equipment is more than 60 years old and I expect them to last at least that again! Thanks for the comment and support 👍
@The Yorkshire Fab Shop The reference was to Quinn at Blondiehacks. Her catchphrase seems to have become "tappy tap tap". Good little channel if you have not seen it, uses smaller lathe and miller, that thousands of people can probably afford, rather than the bigger iron you or I seem to use.
Ah yes of course! I am familiar with the channel I’ve seen quite a few of her videos. She needs a larger machine, nothing quite compares to the proper stuff from back in the day!
I am working on a customer's Progress 4E drill press of the 1960s at the moment. When you place the seals for the quill in the companion make sure you have the spring side upwards and you seal the companion threads with a sealant like holmar or oil will migrate down the companion threads and leak out through the quill over time. Ellott product is pure quality but nasty to work on I feel. I have a Sturdimill 1500 and a 10" dividing head of Elliott manufacture of my own...good video fella...
Great point, I hadn’t explicitly mentioned about the orientation of the shaft seals so it’s certainly worth noting. Absolutely not guaranteed to be correctly installed the previous time! So it’s not always a case of that’s how they came out so that’s how they should go back… Also agree with comment around overhauling, luckily it’s only required once a century!!
Thanks for the support 👍
Only just watched this, great video, great drill, if you can afford them, and if you can find them, British machinery is head and shoulders above most far east equipment . Proper quality gear. I'm an old codger now and have used machinery and tools all my life, made in great Britain used to mean the dog's bo**ox.
Thank you again for your feedback! Great to hear the positive feedback.
Yes they were, and still are amongst the best, but as you say that goes for a lot of the old British (and American for that matter!) equipment. I tend to find a lot of the older British stuff can be had really cheaply if you know what your looking for and drop on them.
Nice job I have put a leveling box off a tractor on mine to wind the table up and down
Good idea, luckily the tables on these aren’t too heavy but it’s still awkward sometimes when you’ve got a heavy job in the vice already! Thanks for the support 👍
nice quality drill press must have been dear back in the day well done
They really are, their only drawback is a modest 4” of quill travel, like the wife says, an extra inch or two would make the difference! Thanks for the comment and support 👍
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 I have a Meddings pacera drill press very similar to yours I had to rebuild itwhen I aquired it but the Elliot looks better quality machine can't comment on the quill travel LOL
I have used the meddings a few times, nice machines which are very similar in design, they were in direct competition with one another at the time they were being produced. I have been looking out for a meddings which needs work with a view to overhauling but like all good gear at the moment they’re fetching strong money. I’ve got a little fobco stuck in the corner of the garage gathering dust that needs attention but there really isn’t anything to them… too much to do!
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 I am exactly the same I have a arboga geared head drill that needs work i have had years lots of projects and no time
Perfect timing I've picked up a 2G today. Could you tell me where you got your bearings from please? Great video
These were supplied by simply bearings, however they are available from a number of other suppliers so choose your preferred retailer. The belt length isn’t quoted because this can vary between motors but should be an “A” profile and around 46” long. Good luck and thank you for the support!
Hi. Great video. I have one of these and the Tufnol gear is damaged. Is it possible to get a replacement one ? Thanks
Thanks you for the comment! The best option I found is eBay, however they are quite expensive and would recommend you keep your eye out for a cheap complete drill! Otherwise you may have to manufacture one but without a mill and a lathe this would be very difficult… good luck finding a replacement 👍
Really very good video. Thanks again for providing the bearing and seal specs. You did a great job on that, can't agree on the colour though I think it's not right for the vintage but that's down to personal preference. Do you know what size oring you used for the gearbox selector shaft? I'm guessing 9x2mm id
Thanks for the support! I forgot to add that so thank you for picking up on it, I’ve shoved it in the description. The size removed was a 012 on the imperial scale (3/8” x 70 thou) so it’s nearest metric size would need to be 9.5mm x 1.8mm however if you only had access to nominal sizes I’m sure a 9mm x 2mm would squeeze into the bore with a little lube and some gentle persuasion! If the cover bore was slightly worn, that would be a great choice.
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 Thanks. I will get round to rebuild mine soon. Its been cosmetically restored but I have not attempted to strip it fully. Its always been noisy when in direct drive (Gearbox disengaged) mode and has always leaked down the quill and out of the selector shaft. I solved this by using one shot grease instead of EP90 which is slightly thicker then EP and resolves the leaking issues but the day will come when it requires complete rebuild. Do you have an estimate on what the complete cost of bearings and seals was?
A fix for the selector shaft to future proof it (and a topic I left out even though I’d discussed it due to the length of the video) would be to machine a second groove in the shaft 10mm inward of the first and fit an extra o-ring. You’d need to grease the outermost o-ring otherwise it might dry out. But it’s a 20min job to change anyway, and a good opportunity to change the oil.
Bearings start at around £100 for the cheapest budget set, up to around £500 for mostly genuine R&M presumably new old stock as they were bought by RHP a number of years ago. I know the lower quill bearing is close to £150 on its own!!! So you pays your money and takes yer chance…
Great video, thanks. I have a question if anyone can help, I took the quill out of my Elliot no 1 but am struggling to locate it . I can’t seem to get the woodruff key lined up and I am not sure of where the woodruff locates in the female sleeve.
Short of dismantling the top pulley is there a technique or something i am missing here?
Thanks in anticipation.
Hmm, I did have a progress 1 a couple of years ago but I don’t recall having difficulty refitting the quill. I definitely had it apart because the spindle nose was slightly bent but as it was a Jacob’s type end it was straightforward to turn true again. I’m sure someone will know the answer but good luck putting it back together 👍
All done.... what a faff that was! Trying to locate the woodruff key using a screwdriver and grease.
If you ever take out the quill and the woodruff key in the spindle is disturbed be prepared for a period of pain, unless you are lucky of course.
Good job getting it back together!
congratulations my friend, a very good video!! I live in Uruguay, South America, I have a progress number 1, it belonged to my grandfather and it is more than 70 years old in my family, I am still using it in small wood jobs, I want to change the mandrel, how do I get it out? this one like yours does not have a central axis where to put the wedge to remove it, how do I do it?
Thank you for the support! The old machines are the best. I believe you are referring to what I would call the drill chuck where you would install the drill bits? If so you will have a Jacobs taper rather than a morse taper. Many of the progress 1 drills had a threaded ring above the chuck which could be used to drive the chuck off the spindle. If this is missing you may need some splitting wedges to remove the chuck without damage. Hopefully that is helpful or relevant? Good luck!
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776 100% correct. the taper is in the chuck , the spindle taper goes down intothe chuck..... someof them though did have a taper that went upinside the spindle witha slit on the side for a wedge. those coudl take the fittings for milling tools.
Hi. Liking the vid
I can only see about 5vids on play list so no part 1?
I presume u have more videos
Hi, thank you for the positive feedback! That one is a full resto slightly condensed but covering all the important bits. Unfortunately I’m quite short of time during the summer months but there’s plenty in the pipeline so definitely keep an eye out for uploads in the near future!
How do i get that top pully off above the quill
!!!
Very sorry for the delayed reply to this, I missed this reply. The pulley has a grub screw which must be loosened first, then you can lever the pulley off between the drill case and the bottom of the pulley. Be careful because it can easily be damaged!
@@theyorkshirefabshop8776
Hi got it off now , pulley had slipped a bit and galled so thats y i was struggling. Become interference fit.Nice puller and go a bit tighter , it moved......
With all this info anyone could o/h one.