Відео

They only run on one side with glow plug to top

Most SSRs require heatsinks, even in normal work conditions. It is also the case in your Fotek DD series devices, where producer clearly states that Heatsink is not required only if line current is lower than 5 A. Plywood on your worktable doesn't act as heatsink definitely. It is not low quality or producer fault but only yours, that your SSR burnt out.

Gute Idee mit den Konsensatoren. Hast halt keine Elektrik wenn der Motor aus ist, aber das kann man verschmerzen. Allerdings habe ich in den 36 Jahren, die ich meine DR600 bereits fahre, noch nie Probleme mit der Batterie gehabt. Im Winter habe ich das Teil ausgebaut im Keller gelagert, im Frühling aufgeladen und gut war. Klar, nach 4 bis 6 Jahren kam dann mal eine neue Batterie rein, aber ich habe wirklich keinerlei Auffälligkeiten seitens der Batterie erlebt. Noch was: Beim Ankicken gibt´s noch Luft nach oben;-). Danke für´s Teilen👍

Thanks for the video!!!!! A massive help thank you

Nice GIFU

İyi iş - good job

Tenks bro

I had the same question bc I don't wish to listen to the pump run all night. Plan on running an external tank and wire the pump to fill my external tank from my truck tank...

Man I’ve been checking video after video and I can’t find out the issue with mine, after watching you a mad genius if I may say so myself maybe you could throw me a bone a help me out. Soooo my 8kw is throwing a code the e-10 code which can be so many things. I’ve cleaned it replaced both the glow plug and the mesh that’s inside the glow plug hole. Both the intake and exhaust are as clean as a whistle. The fuel line is very short we’re talking from tank go unit maybe a foot and a half 2 foot.I’ve also checked the main hard line to the burn chamber and that too is free and clear I’ve blown hard into it and no obstructions I’ve done everything every video has said and still e-10 only thing I can think of is the fuel pump not working right maybe? It sounds fine idk going crazy any ideas or suggestions would so greatly appreciated thanks again.

The earth cables have hight resistance as they are old... make headstock earth and make new , thicker cable earth to regulator... Worked for me..!!

Would be a much better pump imho. Not just the noise issue.

Use your arduino to get the pumping rates, with the unit operating, in all modes. Turn the heater off, use your arduino stored data to pump the heater and collect the fuel… the measure the flow rates, using the arduino to trigger the pump. Once we know that info we can change the pump out completely,

There must be a more simpler and easier way. Why didn't you simulate higher hertz?

The errors I see are that the glow plug is in open air, instead of being imbedded into the frame of the heater. The heat chamber acts as a heat sink so that the plug doesn't burn up. Second, it also has air blowing on it when installed and working, wheres here there is no air flow on the test bench.

Excellent video I was stuck will try

❤

That CE on your unit is not the real one, that has the letters more spaced. Your CE stands for Chinese Export. That sensor is probably an active sensor like f.i. a LM35.

Very useful and nice video

It's best to explain that Again, it's a dosing pump. It operates on pulse over time, depending on setting.

so what is the update? is the BMS needed or not?

Thank you for that. just fixed mine at 107,000 miles. broken wire on the switch stem soldered it.

What voltage/ampers the original heater pump (solenoid, 12V/Xamp?) uses? My intention is to feed the adjustable rpm peristaltic pump with the solenoid pump current directly from the heater pump wiring.

What tools and size did you need to unbolt the egr?

Hi, I am considering same bike, what is your general opinio is it good? I want to have budget bike for longer travels . I like old school bikes , but looking for reliable light kick only bike . My intentions are to make 1 travel around 5-6 K km every year to scandinavian mountains . Please share your opinion.

Best way is to get rid off those solenoid pumps and install a peristaltic pump instead!😅

Heard about problems with capacitator (Kondensator-block) heating up, do you have some max temp values for this kind of capacitator.

Excellent effort. Thank you for sharing an unusual idea 👍

Hi friend. Can you send me main fuse shema. I have issue with 6th fuse in second row from top. Keeps burning out when I give contact with key

Usually only 2 cables to solder.

I put 25ml of two stroke oil in 10 litres of kerosene before burning it in my diesel heaters and the pumps are very very quiet. at 5Hz kerosene burns 15 degrees C hotter at 225 degrees C but with a little 2 stoke oil it brings the burn temp back to 210 degrees C. noise from the all in one heaters is reduced by turning the pump upside down in its rubber mounting so that it is pushing down on the rubber mount not hanging from it.

Even after putting a new one it lasted for 1 year, after this I directly soldered a more ridged horn button standing next to that one, obviously those units have some low quality button put there that doesn't last a lot

Yes that was very helpful I have the very same problem

A video comparing the performance of the Chinese heater vs. the Russian heater would be interesting. Compare build quality, price, performance, longevity, etc. I'm giving you what people would like to see on UA-cam.

Wow, amazing how that small car can tow that caravan. Good content.

It would have been nice if you described the property for sale--location, square meters, improvements, price, distance to nearest city, nearest electrical hookups, water source,, etc.

Thank you for making this video. Can you show me the auction site where I can buy retired firetrucks?

Thank you, very clear and professonel explained and done.

I still don’t understand why it has to be a dosing pump. And not a regular pump with a adjusted regulator valve. Kind of like a fuel injector.

Military grade normally just means it can run on 24v. This looks like the lavender pro so far how about a link or what search to find this or name of specific company? Temperature sensor for output

This could work with a glass top you can order the glass online

Nice seems big for what it does I feel like it could easily be half that size

Can you share code and part number for the sensor?

My problem has been to much voltage pumping alot of fuel I have a lithium titanate battery goes from 16v down to 12 I need to put a voltage regulator on because it soots up to fast .

What's the drop 1 meter or close to 3 feet ?

You inspired me to build a gravity oil dripping system! I could not get my heater to work.. bad mainboard.. and I needed it to work, now it runs like this every day! it s actually very reliable and it always starts! Thx😀

moin, ich finde leider keine LED Birnen über 8W(12-24v).. hast du evtl. einen link für mich?!? danke

SILENT and built for the exact heater you have : ua-cam.com/video/HOVVoKN5sms/v-deo.html

I work with heaters and Arduino and we found the D part of a PID controller is useless with devices that have response times measured in seconds. The response time of an Arduino is too slow as well. The best setup is to use a tuned P- Controller to get close to your desired goal and switch to a PI- Controller as you get really closed to the setpoint. This being said, I really appreciate the work here. I am about to get a diesel heater and will see what I can add.

Just a waste of time for building something with no practical purpose. Imagine the smell!

Was willst Du mit diesem Video sagen? Willst Du auswandern oder nur einen privaten Stellplatz mit Meerblick? Wünsche Euch alles Gute im neuen Jahr.