Відео

Indeed, I'll put some the the unused footage on the second channel later this week if you fancy more therapy :) Thanks for the Super.

Thaanks very much @Roguico. Much appreciated!

There are a few in museums too 😉 They were impressibe things indeed. Glad you enjoyed the video.

We are getting there one model at a time. Thanks for the visit.

The V200 is 1/87 lengthwise, so my guess would be that the scale is correct. Some details were problably oversized on the first 12 versions. Steam engines designed in the late 40s/early 50s were probably even 1/76 😀. These models were made for a relatively long time all the way until the late 60s early 70s. In general, Märklin models progressively got closer to scale over time, although diesels and electrics were better from day one in that respect. Things started shrinking to (or closer to) scale from the mid 1960s onwards, with the roll-out of smaller motors and reversing units, and better manufacturing tools. On the detail side, Märklin always prioritised sturdiness, so models could be a bit crude. This changed in the 1980s, again in a progressive fashion, one new model at a time.

Lovely set of V200's, I still need to repair a couple to make my dad happy ;)

@@JPVelders Thanks and have fun with the repairs.

Thanks very much!

Merci! Je suis d'accord...

Thanks for the visit, I liked the BR 86 in your last video.

Thanks! I use what is fitted to the locos, in my experience, things hang only if the catenary is not aligned with the centre of the track, or if the joints between catenary elements aren't smooth for whatever reason, for example when extension wires are a bit loose and drop a bit.

Not ideal indeed. There is no video about this on this channel. Usually, the issues are mechanical, and since the sympton is that the signal reacts to a 24V pulse, it sounds like something is getting stuck. I would first try and remove the cover on the base of the signal, and see how things behave without. If they are back to normal, then the issue is most likely some friction caused by a bent part. Sometimes, the mast is not at 90°, and the little hook actioning the transmission rod to the arm doesn't travel far enough. It could also be that the transmission rod for the signal arm is bent, and rubs against the opening in the cover or doesn't travel far enough. I would proceed methodically, start at the base and work my way up, adjusting one part at a time. If you have another working signal, you could use it as a reference to identify misshapen parts. I'll bear this topic in mind for future video.

One more thing. It could also be a power issue. If a signal doesn't get a strong enough pulse, it might not move fully. This would happen if you were trying to change several accessories at once, or if you have a lot of accessories connected to the same transformer. The transformer might not have enough power. An indication of the problem would be that the transformer frequently trips.

🙏🙏

That is quite a task to replace the rails in the M-track. All the ramp are 3% in the video, any marklin loco will manage that with quite a load, here is my 3048 in action wiith tinplae coaches: ua-cam.com/video/Gc4TL5-4Bf4/v-deo.html. Have you checked your traction tires? Enjoy your presents...

Thanks a lot, have fun with your trains.

Assuming your question is about models: Pre 1990s MArklin gives you 2 choices, the Class 44 or the class 50, both 2-10-0. They should work on 12 V DC with no modification on dublo 3 rail but with no ability to use remote controlled reversing. Well, that is if I am not mistaken in my assumption that dublo 3 rail is using the same isolation principle between the center rail and the track bed as Märklin. Early versions of the BR 44, for example model number 3027, have a manual lever for the reversing unit, should you want to avoid modifying the loco. The lever is located on one side of the boiler, on the footplate. The following model 3047 no longer has a manual reversing function. The other option is the BR 50, model number 3084, and later iterations (3315, and european versions 3314, 3316, 3319 for example, there were more). Same story for 12V operation, and these were released from the 1970s onwards with remote reversing functionality only. If you were using digital, any current Märklin model is fitted with decoders that can operate using DCC in addition to Märklin MFX and Märklin Motorola. Have a look at the model train directory on www.modelrailroadcollector.wiki, where a search BR50 or BR44 should throw quite a few results. If you go down the modification route, don't throw the reversing unit away, either keep it in the box with the model, and the next guy will appreciate it, or send to me please 😉. Thanks for the visit!

@ thanks for the reply. I believe it’s possible either to replace the coil with a permanent magnet or add some diodes to the coil. I’ll probably do a first test with a cheap 0-6-0T (BR89) before trying something more ambitious ! Dublo track seems to work OK with Marklin track, though some of the Dublo pickups object to stud contact - notably my Bristol Castle and LMS 8F 2-8-0 which have plunger pickups for the centre rail under the tender. They really need a continuous third rail (as on older Marklin track.

CoilS, there are 2 on a Märklin universal motor, check my video about reversing units (part 1), where I go over the working principles. I think you'll need to replace the windings with what is known as a HAMO magnet. It might be helpful to find a cheap hamo locomotive (which are all 2-rail conversions of Marklin models, with isolated wheelsets and permanent magnet), and simply replicate the set-up you'll find in there. You might even be able to fit a pickup shoe to one of those because most of the time the screw hole for the orignal marklin version is still there... Basically, one side of the motor needs to be connected to the chassis, the other to the pick-up shoe.You can also buy what marklin calls a high efficency propulsion kit, which contains a 5 pole armature and permanent magnet, there are several references to convert most older märklin locomotives. So many choices....

some of my 2-10-0s in action: ua-cam.com/video/3bI8Cvd9bmk/v-deo.html or ua-cam.com/video/Gc4TL5-4Bf4/v-deo.html

I would have said the liliput performs the same as Märklin uphill. Transformer settings are the same, load is the same, the locos both slow down. The Liliput is slower because of the gearing. The worm gear behaviour downhill and stopping is probably the reason why marklin waited such a long time to introduce them, they are now a common thing on modern marklin engines and less of a problem thanks to motor regulation on decoders and digital braking modules.Thanks for the visit, glad you find the channel interesting.

Check on one of the marklin forums (marklin-users.net, stummiforum etc...), I am pretty sure you'll find the user manual at least. Original set of booklets also come up for sale on ebay regularly, there are a few now listed for €4.90 + shipping, search for "Marklin 3100 anleitung" on google.

Thanks, the NH and UP models you mention were no longer in the catalogues in th 1980s, so outside of the period of the Märklin production I collect. The bridge has a few power feeds (homemade 😉), and the joints are ok, so no problem of distance/resistance, but this would have definitely been something to look at otherwise 👍. The difference in speeds are just down to the combination of load and torque available at the given transformer setting in this case. Have a good evening, thanks for spending some of your valuable time here today.

Many thanks Bo! Thank for your time today.

Glad you liked it!

Glad you enjoyed it.

That's off topic... But for your information Marklin has been making another track system since the 1970s called K-track, with no track bed, for people who wanted to be more prototypical. The m-track was engineered in the toy days and made to be disassembled frequently. Whether to live with the sight of center contacts or not is down to anyone's taste and I wouldn't call any attempt to use K-track for scale modelling unserious. Modelling always involves a compromise somewhere, whatever the level.

Some examples of "serious scale modelling" from a few youtubers, using marklin track systems. There may be plenty of centre contacts on show, but the scenery is so good that you quickly forget about them. Using the "unserious" M-track (what i use in my videos), from Marklinofsweden: ua-cam.com/video/Rpe51kWS87U/v-deo.htmlsi=Dxtttht7CpnbQCgs Using the less "unserious" K-track from Haltepunkt Auwiesen: ua-cam.com/video/_Id0fk3CIRQ/v-deo.htmlsi=aj2VTXNt47xSBH4l There is also the Miniatur Wunderland in Hamburg of course, where a lot of K-track is used.

The P8 is one of favourites too. Thanks for the visit.

Thanks for the info!

thanks for the visit. I don't have any fireless locomotive.

@@The3rdRail Hello! in this wild world I love! your calm voice explaining so good with so much background knowledge! Thank you! OH yes please get one ;) i would like so much to herar about what it is used for ! I came over to that, find an photo where one is standing in front of the Zuckerfabrik, where my grandpa once worked. Sad that i never ask him to show me how Zucker was made in germany that days... he never asked me :( so now i got an märklin Set 26504 H0 with T6980 that worked für Henkel that made Persil =) it has four axles on the picture that one had only three... so i searched and found Liliput 103000 seems to have the same color as show on the photo BUT it is just DC please press you thumbs, that i will get it to drive on my märklin AC rails =) as younger i did not like those Lokomotives without Schornstein =) but now, i think for some works it makes sense? All the best whishes to you and your family! Greetings from a great FAN =) ) sincerly yours Stefan

@@fernlenker 🙏🙏🙏

@@The3rdRail this hand-pink-waving means? you will panit something pink? why can i do not do this image?

@@The3rdRail 🙏 OH here it copy s the picture? But what does it mean?

I had to leave something for people to comment on :) THe 5-pole in the video is only quieter at very low speed, otherwise, the noise level is not much different, just a slighly quieter type of coffee grinder. Thanks for the visit!

not sure about stone or lighter ballast, it doesn't look very good on the few loads I tried to make. I have seen people use magnets but the loads need space to be able to slide out easily. Thanks for the visit.

You'll see my 3048 in action with tinplate coaches here: ua-cam.com/video/Gc4TL5-4Bf4/v-deo.html, the 3099 performs well with a long rake of 4002/4003/4004/4005; with 24cm tinplate, my guess would 4 with interior lighting, 5 without.

no such problem with mine.

cool, welcome on board.

I probably have too much time on my hands... 😀

Glad you enjoyed it, thanks a lot!

Thanks for the info! Glad you liked the video.

I'll try and remember to check this for you. Thanks for the visit!

@The3rdRail thanks. I removed it 40 years ago and filled and painted the hole in the body in my younger-selve's pursuit of realism! I had read Berndt Schmidt's book Marklin Bahn mitt Pfiff, and set about it with what I could find around the house!

i think it is the same screw as for the Marklin 3000

or some time in the oven 😀 Glad you enjoyed the video.

Thanks! I don't know about the C clip I am afraid.

⁠@@The3rdRail. Thanks, I will posed the question on a Marklin on line forum.

a bit of frenchness is always good 😉

Hello Linda, thanks for sharing! Until next time...

thanks for the info!

So nice of you

Thanks for spending some of your valuable time here today.

Thanks a lot, glad you enjoyed it.

@@ingoprasse989 Well put. They are excellent videos. Despite another UA-camr being held up as a gold standard in reviews, the 3rd rail is considerably more even handed and conscientious in the detail.

@@kellypaws OH YES it is ! =)

Yes, this type of fun is not cheap 😀... Fortunately it is not always like this, but the wheels swap will be quite a common occurence. Thanks for the visit, glad you enjoyed the video.

Thanks a lot!