Відео

Thanks Zee! This one is the Predator 224 build. There's a video series on the channel for the complete build. Parts used were the EC # 8281 billet long rod, Wildcat flat top piston (with the .530 compression height), Banzai 265 camshaft, 22lb springs and a .045 thickness head gasket with the slipstream billet flywheel. This build places the piston around .010 above deck so the .045 head gasket is a must have to get enough quench distance. It's a runner as is but a little more camshaft with 26lb springs, and a switch to Methanol fuel would make lots more power.

Hi Steven! EC has the throttle bracket in a kit form for these. You can make your own bracket once you've had a look at how they're set up. The bracket's only job is to hold the throttle cable in place. I do think it would be a good video idea to show installation of the bracket and how to set up the throttle for the tillotson clones. I will make a video on how to set one up but it won't be anytime soon. I know that's not going to help you if you need to install one now so I apologize in advance. I've got several projects that must be completed before the cold weather hits.

Hi Steven! Depending on how your carb measures at the air horn, you may need either part number filter adapter to work with the carb they send you. It's like luck of the draw on those carburetors even though you order thru the same link. Sometimes you get a "FULIN" brand and the next may be branded as "TILLOTSON" and I've gotten one with no brand markings at all. Some have the larger bore venturi some have the small bore. Unfortunately it's one of the headaches of knock off parts. But, it's worth the hassle IMO.

@@KentuckyFriedFixes I got the one labeled Tillotson.

@@Its-Steven The Tillotson branded carb they sent me uses the 302VS part number adapter and the FULIN brand uses the EC-308 adapter. Which adapter you use depends on how your carb measures at the air horn. Either adapter will work because the bolt spacing is the same at 1.375" but the 302VS adapter fits the Tillotson branded air horn better. It's all in the video.

Hi Yung! I've readjusted the chain a couple of times and it's still on the saw. A good Stihl or Oregon chain installed from the start would be the best bet for sure. These saws would likely sell better if they offered the upgraded chain. Mine came with the full chisel import chain and it cuts great. Overall the saw is GREAT! I just used it the other day to clear a large limb fall. I wasn't expecting it to start, but it did. It's about time for an update video. Thanks!

I appreciate you. Welcome!

Hi Steve! It may have an air leak causing you issues. Since you've already become pretty good at tuning these things in, I'd wager it's the large O-ring between the carb and intake leaking on the inside. (the most difficult air leak to diagnose even with carb spray) They'll act weird like that with an air leak. Idle will be off, one minute high idle the next it won't idle at all. Also, consider a quick disassembly to verify all fuel passages don't have any left over chips from the manufacturing process. I have found one metal sliver in a brand new VM22 that was causing fuel flow issues. If there's an issue with jetting and it doesn't make sense, there's a culprit somewhere causing the issue. The last thing I can think of would be to check that the needle is positioned properly. Some of these VM22 carbs do not include the little plastic spacer under the needle and that can cause issues as well. The needle on the carb in this video was not adjusted properly at the beginning. It was allowing fuel to pass thru the main jet at idle, which is a big no no. You'll get it straightened out.

@@KentuckyFriedFixes Thank you for your time KFF!!🙌 after this I ran through all the good stuff once more and swapped a vm22 that i knew worked good (not much difference) after seeing it puff black smoke at idle no matter how it was adjusted I started to think about timing, like a dummy I failed to realize the cheap cast flywheels all have ONLY 18 degrees, a 8 degree advance got it closer to where it needs to be but i have a 12 degree coming in the mail i’ll be sure to post a update!!

@@xxxsteveharris12 Yes Sir, they'll burn more fuel when you add timing. If the VM-22 is not responding to jet changes, there's definitely an issue somewhere. A needle that's raised too high can allow fuel to pass thru the main at idle and cause headaches to diagnose.

I'd check the valve lash. It's probably not set correctly. Quality Control is missing in action when it comes to these import engines.

I think the mosquitoes are working on a petition.

Thanks Artie!

Last new one I bought was in '08. I'll stick with the used stuff and keep patching them up. LOL!

@KentuckyFriedFixes well in my world it's new to me around xmas time is when I buy mowers as people need xmas money normally it's a won't start clean carb put a new battery in 2 year old mower I sharpen blades $300-500 I buy a few then April hits they roll out like hot cakes the 11th is opening for antlerless so been working for a buddy at the shop sighting in deer riffle this weekend get payed to shoot guns all weekend 😀 it's terrible life I tell ya

@@heathenprojects2639 To me, a two year old mower IS NEW. 🤣 Oh life is rough!

LOL! If I didn't have spares ready and waiting, I probably would throw a set of rings at this thing. Luckily, I'm an engine hoarder. I don't throw anything away.

I appreciate you Robert!

It was fun and should be a lasting memory for my boys. Thanks H&S!

Hi Tristan! What size jets are you running?

I’m not sure about the pilot. Neither of the jets that came in it have any markings. I did order a main jet kit when I ordered carburetor so the main jet is 110.

I have also ordered a pilot jet kit now that should be here tomorrow

Hi Tristan! As long as you stick close to a #20 pilot jet you should be real close on your low speed jetting with gasoline. The pilot jets that come in those carbs from the factory will either be much too large or much too small, the main jets in the carbs I've tuned included either # 95 or # 98 main jets from the factory. Those are much too small unless you intend to ride on top of Mount Everest. The main jet size can be determined by reading the spark plug and even by sound at first, to get you close (in the description). I also have some suggested jet sizes in the description to get you started based on your approximate altitude. (you have to start somewhere) The pilot jet (or idle jet or low speed jet as some call it by different names) will normally work about the same at most altitudes since the engine is not moving much air at low speeds. After everything is jetted and tuned in properly your idle air screw (or air mix screw) should be between 1 and 2 turns out from a gentle close. If it's over 2 turns out, switch to a smaller pilot jet size, likewise if it's under 1 turn out, switch to a larger pilot jet. You'll get it, there's nothing magic about it once you understand how everything works together.

@@KentuckyFriedFixesperfect. Thank you for the help!

Yes they are!

Hi Stephen! It's air cooled so some type of fan for cooling is required. Now there are some engines that use Methanol fuel and only run for short bursts like Junior Dragsters, Drag Mini bikes and Pulling tractors (hot rod garden tractors) and those applications usually use a billet flywheel with little or no cooling fins, but only because those engines won't be running for long periods of time and the Methanol fuel cools the engine as well during the run. The slipstream billet flywheel I chose for my 224 build has very small cooling fins but they're good enough to flow some air for cooling. So it kinda boils down to the application I guess. In most cases you'll need some cooling fins, in all out race engines running Methanol fuel for short bursts like drag racing, you can get by without them.

Hi AC! I have good luck using a pair of side cutters to remove stuck timing keys.

@KentuckyFriedFixes thank u man I'm gonna try that instead of banging on it when the new one comes in I now know it's gonna kick back at least once lol my ducar literally only did it once in 3 years after I set the lash I was golden have a good rest of the week 💪🏼💯💨💨💨

Thank you Sir! At the time it was the cheapest option to get it home. I'll add a link to your channel in my upcoming "tractor repair" video description. That Ford tractor project you're doing is awesome and I love the background music too!

@@KentuckyFriedFixes That's much appreciated, thank you! I'm having fun with the old Ford, and I have a 46 Dodge farm truck that'll be getting some screen time in the future as well. I'm really enjoying your channel, you have a ton of fun and informative videos!

Thanks Joseph! Hopefully I'll get this one in good shape to use on the farm. The mechanicals seem to be solid but there are a few issues to repair. If you ever feel like taking a break from that Bolens you're restoring you're welcome to turn a few wrenches on the Minneapolis Moline!

@@KentuckyFriedFixes That would be fun but sadly a bit too far away

Hi OS! I tried running an engine on Isopropyl alcohol in 1979. I tried it in a pulling tractor (garden tractor) engine as an experiment but the results weren't great. I found that regular gasoline made more power than the Isopropyl alcohol. I even distilled mine to close to 100% isopropyl since I could only buy the 50/50 mix here at that time. After that, I switched to Methanol and fell in love with it. For performance alcohol fuels I've used Methanol and have tinkered with E-85 which contains 85% Ethanol. As long as you have a pure enough mixture it will run on the Isopropyl. You'll need to find something greater than 90% mixture as the usual rubbing alcohol at the store comes as a 50/50 mix of Isopropyl and water. I have used it in Winter to help remove water from my gas tank, but that wasn't because it was a performance gain for my truck or anything, I just needed to get the water out of my tank so it wouldn't freeze and cause issues. You'll need to increase the jet size of your carb to run the Isopropyl. I can't remember what size jet I used back then but it was larger than the gasoline jet, probably a .052 or around that. You can do it, don't let anyone tell you different. I wouldn't count on any better performance over gasoline though.

@@KentuckyFriedFixes I'm thinking of using the 91% rubbing alcohol stuff that can be bought pretty much anywhere so it's convenient. I'm not expecting the most powerful thing in it's package size due to I understand there's limitations. I'm just trying to build a tricked out larger Harbor Freight type of small engine to give myself a cool project and something I can eventually use on a kart. For now I'm just having fun trying to figure this out. I still haven't figured out which size engine I want yet ... probably the biggest CC with the biggest aftermarket parts list as well as an engine that has a long history of being modified.. I haven't tinkered with anything like this in about 30 years lol. Thanks Again

@@oldsoul5263 You can do it. Set a goal, think it thru and make it happen. Performance parts are readily available for most of the small OHV engines. The Honda GX200 clone parts are very reasonably priced as well. The larger engines like the 420cc etc, also have a good amount of aftermarket performance parts available but they're a little more expensive than their smaller counterparts.

Hi Neil! That's a great question that I have not found the answer to yet. I was going to look at it today but it's been raining cats and dogs here. It's my belief the high/low selector shaft is probably rusty. The tractor sat for at least a year outside and the transmission fluid has water contamination. I'm hoping the high/low shifting will be sorted out with some clean up after I pull the shift cover off. Fingers crossed. It'll either be something simple or it'll be something terrible requiring the tractor to be split. All the gears are great in low range and there's been no popping, jumping out of gear or unpleasant noises so far. But, in anticipation of the "something terrible" scenario, I've been looking online for transmission parts and I've found some good news. It looks like most of the gears are available new if it requires that kind of love. Of course my hope is it will be sorted with some clean up, rust removal and a couple of fluid flushes/changes. But if not, I'm fully prepared to split the tractor and go from there. I'm intent on saving this one, the G450 is a one year production model for the MM name. The Oliver 1365 and White Fiat rebrand models were produced for several years up thru the mid 70's. Yep I'm a tractor nerd.

Hi Neil! You certainly don't use a tow dolly to move one with final drives on the rear axle for sure! Had this been something without final drives it would have been fine for a short trip. You just let the engine idle to keep the transmission lubricated during transport. The highway trip does sharpen the cleats on the tires some though. Is it the best way to move a tractor? Obviously not, but you work with what you've got or else you throw your hands in the air and surrender. For better or worse, I never surrender and I needed to get this thing home without paying more for the haul bill than the old tractor was worth. LOL Thanks for watching! (I do have a larger trailer than the one we took with us on day 2, but it was out of action at the time)

Thanks Robert. This channel is more of a hobby than anything else, I'm retired so it's not about making a living. If guys buy anything thru the links in the descriptions of my videos, I give that percentage from the affiliate link back to the Subscribers in the form of a tool that can be used for engine building. (once there's enough to actually buy a tool that is. I think I had to come out of pocket just a few bucks for this one.)

Hi Mick! We did have cold drinks in the escort vehicle and we bought a few snacks each time we made a pit stop. I could have hired the tractor to be hauled but what fun would that have been? My boys will remember the struggle and adventure of getting the old Minnie Mo tractor home long after I'm gone. And that's what I really wanted out of this, good memories. Hopefully they'll take good care of the tractor now that there's a personal connection to it.

@@KentuckyFriedFixes That's I'd love to do something like that. Reminds me of when I was young; and got a chance to drive a tractor. Tractors are the original SUV's. You can take them off-road just about anywhere. Fun stuff! 😁

Hi Steven! We farmed with a 20 Ferguson gas and a couple of 3000 Ford diesels for most of my childhood. The Minneapolis Moline tractors weren't seen in this area, I guess there were no local dealers. But I always wanted one. This G450 is not a good representation of the brand though since these were just Fiat 600 series tractors with the MM paint and branding. Though that was one of the reasons I chose to buy this one, new parts are readily available for the Fiat at a reasonable price. Thanks for watching.

Thanks Nic! I was motivated to start looking for a bigger trailer to haul bigger junk from this adventure.

Thanks Artie! I appreciate you!

Thanks Rob! This adventure was a memory maker for sure.

Hi CCI! If you followed the setup steps in the description and video then you either have an air leak or there is a blockage in a fuel passage somewhere. An air leak (vacuum leak) is the most common issue with these carbs. Usually where the carb bolts to the intake the o-ring on the mounting surface is misaligned causing the leak.

@@KentuckyFriedFixes thanks I followed the video exactly.. I adjusted the bottom screw and the side screw just as the video said…except i drilled the pilot main to be bigger.. so you think there is air leak? I hear people say to remove the black plastic piece… do you also suggest that? Thanks

@@commoncentsideas1215 Hi CCI! I prefer to use the black plastic isolator, if you deleted it, you likely have an air leak at the large O-ring that seals between the carburetor and intake manifold. It can be leaking from the inside which makes it difficult to detect even with carb spray.

Thanks CK! Everything will clear with enough grinding!

If you have a 212 with a flat top piston and a .010 head gasket it's probably building enough compression to benefit from a higher octane fuel (depending on the amount of quench you've got). I'd check the small stuff first to make sure the valve lash is set properly and the timing is not too far advanced. If you're running a billet flywheel those will have an advance in ignition timing even if you have a stock "0 degree" timing key installed. They're really set up for racing and Methanol fuel for the best performance. Lots of advance is great for performance but if it starts pulling the rope from your hand more often than not, you may need to reduce the timing a few degrees. The only other option would be an electric start. Gasoline fuels won't handle as much timing advance as Methanol fuels. If you're using gasoline type fuel try mixing a little synthetic two stroke oil, maybe start with a 100:1 mix and see if that helps, if not you can mix more two stroke oil in the fuel if you need. I know it sounds crazy but the two stroke oil will make your fuel heavier and that will reduce pre-ignition and kickback. It's also cheaper than buying high octane race gas. Small stuff first then if your problem remains you can start checking the big things like if the compression release on the cam is hitting the side of the crankshaft counterweight.

@@KentuckyFriedFixes I set the valves to .003 and the problem persisted so I set it to .0025, it still starts but is kind of difficult. I heard some people say that setting the valves closer is good but I have no clue. Would methanol or 93 octane be fine to use with that carb? Worst case scenario If I put a thicker head gasket for less compression would that make it easier to start?

@@KentuckyFriedFixes and could you mix the two stroke oil with higher octane ?

@@Wab2007 Depending on your cam grinder's profile you can set the valve lash at .002 to improve the function of the compression release. Two thousandths was the suggested lash on the Banzai 265 cam from EC to help with compression release issues. Unless you're racing, I'd stay away from Methanol as it takes quite a bit of maintenance to run it. You'll have to do tons of oil changes not to mention flush the fuel system with gasoline every time you put the engine away. Now that's not to say I don't like Methanol fuel, fact is I LOVE IT! But, there's a lot of maintenance that comes with running Methanol fuel and if you're not winning money with the engine it's not very economical for the wallet. You can use two stroke oil in most high octane gasoline fuels. The only exceptions would be any fuel that contains alcohol as that doesn't mix well with the two stroke. If you decide to experiment with fuels I'd suggest a good specific gravity test kit for fuel. They're not cheap these days but it's the only way any fuel experiments will pay off. Depending on how much you've raised the compression, you may be able to get by with some 93 octane (Shell and ask for 93 without alcohol) with a little synthetic two stroke oil mixed in. The 112 and 114 race gas won't benefit you unless you have some really high compression, aside from that those fuels aren't cheap to run either $. Run a compression test and compare your numbers with a stock engine, you'll know whether or not you can use the 112 or 114 octane.

@@KentuckyFriedFixes OK thanks man 👍👍👍

I'll keep an eye open for one the next time I visit HF.

Yes Sir Shawn, the 224 head is a good one and a good solid starting point for a performance build. The ports look great right out of the box! The Hemi heads will flow better than the non-Hemi types with work, by design. But unless you're building some sort of firebreather competition engine for money racing only, it doesn't make a lot of economic sense to drop $800-$1200 on a fully race prepped Hemi head or billet when the non-Hemi head is a perfectly respectable foundation for power at half the cost. (Added info: This video was just to see if the 212 parts would still fit the new 224 Predator. The Hemi head installed likely reduced the engine HP)

Hi Dustin! Make sure he gets the lifetime warranty parts. I didn't the first time and I learned my lesson. The cheapies last as long as their warranty then fail.

@@KentuckyFriedFixes thank you!!

Hi William! The Ducar 212 Hemi was a much better buy. At the time of this video my Ducar 212 Hemi came with a PVL flywheel installed. I think they have since stopped adding the nice flywheels though.

LOL! I ruined that flywheel nut William, and I completely own my misdeed. A flywheel "knocker" is definitely the way to go.

Most of the time when they go to full throttle after startup, it turns out to be either the air slide was not properly installed or there's an air leak at the internal o-ring between the carb and the intake mounting area. I'll bet that o-ring is not sealing because I'm sure you know how to install the slide and make sure it opens and closes properly. Though the slide being not properly installed happens quite a bit too, it's no shame to have that error because some of the VM22 carbs are defective and missing the internal alignment pin in the barrel of the carb that aligns the slide properly. (Probably why some of these are so cheap) Either way those Nibbi carbs are much nicer looking carbs, the machining and quality looks top shelf! A bit pricey though for a budget build.

Hi Adam! That's a good question. Depending on who you ask and how you choose to build your engine you may want to run a tight piston to wall clearance of .0035 to .005 (thousandths of an inch) with thin oil or .006 to.0075 piston/wall clearance with thick oil. The Wildcat flat top piston is cast so you can get away with a tight clearance if you prefer. I always build my race engines loose and after the break in they always receive/run FHS-62R Heavy oil. It's supposedly a straight 40wt oil but it may be a bit thicker. (It seems more like a 50w to me) Also if you're building with a forged piston you'll want to keep the clearance a little loose. I know Wiseco and J&E will tell you they want no more than .005 clearance but that's too tight IMO and will get you into trouble the first time you overheat the engine. (Normal racing conditions overheats the engine). It's always better to build a little loose on the piston to wall clearance than to build too tight. As long as your top ring gap is set you're good to go with a loose fit of .006 to .0075 I've built garden tractor pulling engines that the piston was so loose in the bore I used a .020 top ring with a standard bore piston. That's about all I can say just to give you an idea of how I like to clearance my engines. Loose is best IMO. So in the end how tight or how loose you choose to build and the oil you use is up to you. I've tried both ways myself and things worked out much better when I built them loose.

Hi SC! I've not done anything with the Duromax engines. I may order one and have a look at it. From what I've seen online, the blocks on the Duromax are not as good as the Ducar. It looks like a Predator Hemi block.

@KentuckyFriedFixes yeah but if u had to pick one to mess around wit it's being gifted to me and I have a week to pick one any one up to the 440cc 😳

@KentuckyFriedFixes thanks for the reply and time btw I greatly appreciate it KFF 💪🏼💯

I appreciate you Lou! I love me some DIY Willy Briggs builds!

Hi Tyler! It's not magic and anyone can do this. If you're having kickback issues from the Predator 224 build or a similar engine build there's usually 3 things to concentrate on, Fuel type and specifically fuel octane, valve lash and ignition timing. The engines with high performance parts will always run better with the timing set high but if it starts pulling the rope from your hand more often than not you can make a few adjustments, or use an electric starter if you're racing. Fuel can cause the same issue if you're running a lot of compression and don't have the right fuel. A little two cycle oil mixed in with the fuel can do wonders.

@@KentuckyFriedFixes okay awesome man I really appreciate the advice to be honest I just have never messed with timing before so I’m a little lost but fuel I can understand , my cart has a hard time starting like a have to pull it 50 times an once it starts it’ll run strong but takes forever to start and it kicks back

@@KentuckyFriedFixes I just run regular 87 because I was told to run that

@@tyleradcock5493 Hi Tyler! 87 octane is fine for stock engines. You only need the race gas or Methanol for racing builds with high compression. If it takes more than 3 pulls to start your engine, something is wrong. Either carburetor fuel or air leak issue or the spark plug needs replaced. A good tune up and a valve adjustment will probably help your engine behave properly.

@@KentuckyFriedFixes okay thanks man I will try when you say valve adjustment how do I go about that ?

Hi Guy Farmer! The valve lash really depends on the camshaft choice of your build. This video was designed for the guys following along on the Predator 224 build. In that one we used a 265 lift "Banzai" camshaft and the specs on the valve lash were suggested at .003 but the guys at EC recommended setting it at .002 to work better with the compression release. Usually the looser you go on the valve lash, the more problems you'll have with the compression release not working for you. If you have the billet flywheel installed you might have to reduce the ignition timing a bit to get it where it's not yanking the rope out of your hand more often than not. That's the problem with advanced timing, the engines love it and will make more power but unless you're using an electric starter, one arm will eventually be longer than the other.

I agree Paul. The Quality is really lacking and the bearings that come in these are terrible. The wife's Cub Cadet mower is on its second set of spindles and blades in 3 years of use. Rebuilding the deck is becoming annual maintenance like changing oil and filter!

Idle problems are usually the result of an air leak somewhere. Check the basics to make sure everything is as it should be. Verify the slide is installed properly and it will open and close with the throttle. Check for any air leaks, those cause the most common issues. If everything checks out I would suggest a larger pilot jet as it sounds like your engine is running out of fuel at idle. Make sure you start in the jet size ranges recommended in the description. If you're trying to use the factory installed pilot or main jet, those will only work if you're on top of Mount Everest. You'll get it lined out. It's not magic and you can do this. One step at a time.

Hi Chuck. This video was mainly concentrating on the 224 Predator build and stopping the kickback that comes with that build. Some of the stuff still applies to other engines though. A quick recap would be: 1.Check the valve lash. 2. Check if your aftermarket flywheel has a timing advance "built in". 3. Reduce any excess timing, either by using a modified flywheel key or a properly done delete of the flywheel key to allow timing reduction by moving the flywheel counter-clockwise. 4. I don't remember if I mentioned it in the video but some of the 58mm stroke 224 crankshafts also have a rough finish on the side of the counterweight near the camshaft gear. I usually pick a crankshaft that has the side machined smoothly (or do some lathe work in that area if I'm committed to using that particular crankshaft). The reason is sometimes the crank with the rough counterweight can contact the compression release on the camshaft. You can also modify the compression release on the camshaft but I don't like doing that.