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John, thanks for watching! I tell ya, after tipping the bench upright and pushing it around a bit - I needed a chiropractor! Hope all is well, be safe and take care!

Hideout, thanks for watching! Ah, the mysterious "blurred" file. It's the file I wish was in the test, one that actually would do it all, but it doesn't exist. I agree, the MN S-file really needs a follow-up file to finish the process. I find it a bit strange how so many people say it's the best, yada, yada. I couldn't get it to finish the job, and I was only doing tests. I've since tried to use it on various projects, but every time I end up reaching for another file. Hopefully MN will release a V2 file with 300 grit coating and a center rib that is .010 - 0.015 thousandths wide. I could live with that. Glad you are having good luck with the offset file. The file I tested did work pretty well, but it was not good out of the box. I had to ease all the edges just to keep from cutting my fingers to pieces. I have used it a handful of times since the testing, a pretty good tool. Hope all is well, be safe and take care!

Connor, thanks for watching! Yes, this guitar had a few little surprises for me. The lock-washer/spacers was a laugh for sure. I have to guess, the body wood is rather soft, and without a neck plate the neck screws were just sinking in and crushing the neck pocket wood. A custom "fix" sort of, lol. I'll fix that and other things in a future mod. Just enjoying the everyone, haven't had to "tune-it" since the original setup. That's pretty cool. Hope all is well, be safe and take care!

@theNextProject I was thinking that too, but don't the Gios come stock without a neck plate? Man idk, I know it doesn't actually matter, but I'm fully invested now hahahaha

Yep, no neck plate on the Gio. Soft wood, no plate... Squish. Lol

@@theNextProject lmao such a strange design element. Hell, even fenders have a neck plate, and they use hard woods like ash (great tool handle wood too, btw) and alder

Thanks for watching and good luck with your fix!

Calvin, thanks for watching, _twice!_ Be safe and take care

Tone, thanks for watching! Well, it does say LP on the headstock, and it was a repair.... I've worked on a couple Epi LPs now, and I tend to think their breaking issue is with lumber choice and truss rod channel routing practice. Headstock angle thrown in on top of that creates a very delicate spot...LP style. Be safe and take care!

Push, thanks for watching! Any of the files will do the job, this was just my takeaway using all the files side-by-side. I'm also working on a "conventional" fret file test now. All steel tooth file, no diamonds. That vid should be posted in a few days. Be safe and take care!

@ Cheers! I would love to see that. I was just exploring them and wondering if that wouldn’t be a more reasonable option. The price is more attractive. I’m subscribing now. You’re thorough and likable. Thank you

LOL, made me laugh - thanks and welcome to the family!

Neiko, thanks for watching and good to hear from you! Agreed, pulling frets seems completely unnecessary. I was polite and mentioned that pulling frets to roll the edges, is like pulling a car engine to change the oil (crazy). I attempted to explain my issue with rolling the fingerboard edge without frets in place, and that is that the top playing width of the fingerboard will be reduced as the edges are rolled. Re-fretting at this point requires the frets to be narrower across the board, decreasing the distance from board edge to the E/e strings. Also, the new fretwire can't conform to the rolled edge, so it has to be back on the board where the surface is still the full radius. A very gentile chamfer is often part of a re-fret anyway as the fret ends are beveled back to the board, additional edge roll is added as you mentioned. A little goes a long way, for me at least. When I refret a board that is already "rolled", I usually leave the edge alone as much as possible. Freshen up the edge as needed when I polishing everything up. Everyone has their own way I guess. These were "internet luthiers" I was chatting with, and I sometimes wonder if the people on the other end of the conversation have ever done any of the work they talk about, or are keyboard jockeys. Oh well, always interesting to hear processes and "stories". I bet your local tech will laugh. Be safe and take care!

@ Agree on what you said about the space between the fretboard edge and fretends when rounding the board first. Used to be on a forum a lot 14 years or so ago. There was a building section. One guy had an opinion on everything. He never build a guitar yet knew better than everyone around. With this rolling a small amount does wonders. I just make sure every position gets the same amount of file movement and angle to make it consistent along the neck. Quite satisfying work.

Pablo, thanks for watching! The first 4 pages are tabloid (11" x 17"). These 4 page can be printed on any size paper, as they are instructions. The last 4 "template" pages are letter size (11"wide x 8.5"high). You will want to print these at 100% scale, not "fit to paper" or any other setting that may change the scale of the drawings. Hope this helps, good luck with your projects!

@theNextProject thanks man! I will try these for my first neck build .

Shiny sweetness!

Voyeur, thanks for watching! Never a dull moment, things can go sideways in the blink of an eye. Good times... Hope all is well for you, be safe and take care!

Yes! Coffee is essential when building a guitar! Cheers : )

Kelly, thanks for watching. Great question! As this started, I had almost no string clearance at the 22nd fret, so the either the neck was high, the bridge was high, or a mixture of both. In this case the neck and pocket were intended for a strat style trem/bridge, but I changed things up, going with a recessed FR style. Cutting an angled neck pocket would reduce string height, but also limit how low the bridge could be recessed. I am looking to get the bridge low and level "into" the body, much like a Jackson or other similar guitar with a recessed FR style trem. Pocket angle, or shimming would kick the heel of the neck up, giving lower string action, but when the trem is pulled up the strings begin dropping in height as they rotate back below their neutral high point. I was finding added angle seemed to enhance early string choke at the 22nd fret. The option to stand-in and fine tune a slight angle is always an option as the project rolls forward too. Thanks again!

@theNextProject ok. I understand. I've done a few of those recess routes myself.

PastorKev, thanks for watching, and for sharing your experience with the S-file. I've since reached out to MN, had a couple good chats with them regarding what you are stating. They seem to be hearing the comments and are working on future improvements. I have no idea when that would be, and any future upgrades unfortunately won't help us... Sorry this video didn't reach you sooner, and I hope you can find situations where the file will help. I keep trying to use it, but most often the crowning work I do, starts narrower than the MN S-File center safely rib, so it seems to have limited use for me. Wishing you the best. Be safe and take care!

Hey man, good to hear from you and thanks for watching! I do like the fender boat jack, but I didn't want to cut that hole in the face of this guitar. Agree with the function of placement in a pick guard.... perfect. I'm on the fence in this case. Hmm, maybe a built-in wireless is the answer! I should have thought of that sooner, no hole to drill = nice! Bah, my thinking is too slow. ;) Hope you are doing well, any new projects? Be safe and take care my friend!

@@theNextProject I consider new pots and new knobs on a 5-string bass I never played. It fell so many times, there is a crack in the headstock. It's not an angled headstock, so it didn't break, only a crack lengthwise. A 3 and 2 Headstock that is stepped down, you know, like on a Strat. Maybe I could sell it when it's repaired. I bought it at a time, when I was pretty crazy, I bought way too many instruments from this dealer on eBay, I thought I could sell those instruments with a gain. This is the last instrument that reminds me of this crazy time some 20 years ago.

Lyricbread, good to hear from you and thanks for watching! Completely agree with you. I tried to explain exactly what you said, apparently I didn't explain it properly, lol Oh well, I like the results I get doing things this way too. Hope you are doing well, be safe and take care!

Hey hey, there it is!!! Thank you for doing the math! Oh, sorry - I got carried away. Thanks for watching and answering the call to action. I'm glad to hear that my guess of 24" (mid-20s) was almost close. Now I'll cut a couple new shims for the E/e saddles and life will be good! I hope you are doing well, be safe and take care (thanks again!) 👍

Floydhalen, good to hear from you again, and thanks for watching! I have a few extra sets of feeler gauge laying around, as I tend to cut them up for a number of little "shim" projects. Really affordable shim option, as long as the size works. Hope all is well for you, be safe my friend!

@@theNextProject Thank you for the feedback! I really like your idea of using feeler gauges as Floyd Rose saddle shims (and for the locking nut as well) - I’ll definitely borrow that from you. Feeler gauges are indeed very affordable these days, and making the shims will be quick and easy. Your videos are always so inspiring! I also have to say, I truly admire your video editing, camera angles, and lighting. This is hands down my favorite guitar-related channel!

Jens, thanks for watching! Let me know what time your flight gets in, I'll pick you up at the airport, we'll grab a pint or two, then package up all the invalid guitar for shipping. I'll put my shoes on and get ready to meet you...let me know! Hope you are doing well, all good here. Busy with non guitar stuff, oils change and brake job today = exciting times! Be safe and take care my friend... Hmm, just wondering how long of a flight it will be. 😉

@theNextProject Then I hope You do the oil change the right way. I don't think I can take your car with me in my hand luggage 🤔 You know that as a German I can't let any sloppiness pass except my own. The flight could still take a while, as the airport is not yet ready.

Yes, it is! I've cut a lot of stuff right on it, no worries about scratching or gouging it... it's a bench! Thanks for watching, take care!

Jake, thanks for watchin! I keep and sell. Hmm, _Keep-then-Sell._ Just sold an Epiphone LP that I made a new neck for, have a 2020 prototype build that I plan to sell. Then there are a few slid under the bed and piled in the corner of my closet. Everything sells eventually. I keep looking at the orange Gretsch big-body, I should sell it, but it's just so cool...dilemma. Let me know if interested in any of the projects, if I still have it, it could be yours. Be safe and take care!

Hey Mike, good to hear from you and thanks for watchin! I'll let Laura know you say Hi. Hope all is going well for you, take care my friend!

OMZ, LOL that sounds about right! Strange how my eye twitches and I can't sleep at night when I know there is a short shim in the stack. Then again, my ears are blind to my playing ability. Strange. Thanks for watching and dropping the note, good stuff! Be safe my friend!

Interesting, I'll have to look into the Hamer Californian output jack setup. Sounds cool, thanks!

@@theNextProject totally off topic but check out older esp horizon guitars for cool ergonomic idea on rear belly carve, its a huge U or V shaped scooped out

Bah! That darn _"SuBsRibe"_ strikes again. I need to find that template, then actually read and fix it. _Grr!_ Sorry, and thank you. I feel I'm giving you work to do, rather than just kickin' back and enjoying the show. Ha, funny. Be safe and take my friend!

Joel, thanks for watching and glad to hear the vids are relaxing. I often wonder if the high-speed presentation will cause and eye-twitch or such, but it's good that you find it calming. I appreciate that feedback! You are welcome, and I thank you and all who take the time to join me for these projects. I want to present something that isn't a waste of your time, maybe a little helpful, funny or thought provoking. Thank you again, more coming soon-ish. Be safe and take care!

Hey Mark, good to hear from you and thanks for offering _"Murray"_ a good home. I call her Murray, because it's kinda merlot/maroon colored, but can call her whatever you wish. I understand you POV, and the reality of the brand based offer. I hope you find it to be the best Epi that you've even put a hand on. If you don't mind, give us some play-through samples when you and Murray get settled in. I'll put a vid together and showcase the build and your samples. Let me know when you need a link for file transfer. Be safe, take care and enjoy. She ships out today!

Dugbert, thanks for watching! Great question, in this case I lean toward the black (black oxide) type finish. I've done only a little gun-blue in the past, and it may depend on the metal and the finish being used, but I wasn't getting the color I was after with the blue process. Stumbled across the EPI Insta-Blak 333 product a number of years back, purchased the "sample" kit, and I'm still using it. It's a pretty simple process, rather quick too. Probably an hour total from pulling the box off a shelf, unpacking, re-reading the instructions, warming some water, mixing 3 different chemical steps, processing the parts through the steps and final dip in the last "oily" protective coat, packing it all up and putting the box away. I had looked into a "cold black" process a few years back. I don't think it was parkerizing, but maybe a "home" type imitation similar process. Had mixed feeling based on what I read, went with Insta-blak at the time. A lot of cool things out there, many more I've never heard of. Do you have any suggestions of things that yield good results without a degree in science? I'm game if you got some good easy ideas, let me know! Be safe and take care!

@@theNextProject I've cold-blued a few gun parts in the past. A good degreasing and heating/warming of the parts helps. The degree of polish is most important. I haven't had much luck with Alumi-Black, so I'll have to give Insta-Black a try.

Insta-blak is a dull, flat finish by itself. If I recall it has a good salt-spray rating, and improved rust resistance depending on what final treatment is added. The oily 303 coating I use is/was their basic, no frills finish. I believe there is a waterbase lacquer and other final protective finishes available. Here's a link: www.epi.com/insta-blak-333.html?srsltid=AfmBOoqTR-icK-foSYevTK1L3rLcnKOXvXHitdaegdTDdopzYm0x4cVJ

M.A., thanks for watching! I kinda like doing things wrong, I learn a lot that way. Actually, I'm continually trying to do things in different ways, right, wrong and somewhere in-between. A lot of good education is "in-between". Thank you very much for the compliment, greatly appreciate it. Hope you are doing well. Be safe and take care!

Eddie, great question and thought process. You are correct in seeing a 20" radius being the same from the 5th to the 20th and beyond to the bridge/saddles. Only issue is, this neck goes from 12" at the nut, to 20" at the 22nd fret, it is cone shaped from small/tight to large/flatter radius changing over roughly a 16" of fingerboard distance. So, if the radius changes at the fingerboard, it will also continue to enlarge as it continues on to the bridge at the full 25.5" scale length. The change isn't noticable at arms length, but up close it can be seen. I wish I could show it better, but the bridge arrived with a ±14" radius at the saddles. The 22nd fret is ±20" radius. I could easily see the arch difference in the two radius' as the strings contacted the frets, or the radius gauges. I plan to go back and cut new E and e saddle shims to get the radius a smidge closer to where it needs to be. I hope this helps explain the conical issue I was facing.

The cone doesn’t just disappear at the end of the fretboard no matter how small of a difference.

@@theNextProject …thank you…and I totally understand your predicament with the radius of the fretboard vs that of the bridge👍

Eddie, thanks for watching! I'm always trying to up my game and do better work. Sometimes I get in the way of progress, but that's just me. Hope you are doing well, take care!

LOL, he man, good to hear from you and thanks for watching! WOW, you got some anger for the PRS stuff, makes me laugh every time you bring them up. You'll have to share the story some time. FR trems are a bit wiggy at times. I'm hoping to tame this one a bit, we're getting close. Hope all is well, take care my friend!

@@theNextProject no no, no anger at all :) ... i'm just saying what the world already knows: Gibbo's are GRRReat! Fenders are fun - but everyone prefers your style of mounting p'ups better than the dumb huge pickguard mount ... and PRS are trash, and ladies around the world are lovelorn with your rugged handsome style. Keep on Rockin' in the Free World

Museums Bloke, good to hear from you my friend, and thanks for watching! I'm hoping the finish work will be most of the next episode. The process will go something like this: Sanding, stress, Staining, stress, Sealing, stress, Sanding, stress, Painting, stress, Sanding, stress, Polishing, liquid refreshments. Fingers crossed! Hope you are doing well, be safe and take care!

Tobit, thanks for watching! Agreed, natural eased edge wear with frets in place, or as I do it a gentle ease between frets leaving full fretboad and fret width across the neck. I attempted to explain my reasoning for not doing a rolled edge without frets, and the potential for the new fret install to have a reduced width across the board due to the full board being rolled/eased...basically being slightly narrower at the top playing surface. I guess they didn't understand what I was getting at... Maybe I just don't explain things well. Anyway, I think the way I go about it has been working pretty well, but to each their own. Thank you very much for the comment/compliment, greatly appreciated! Be safe and take care!

GoudVis, thanks for watching and "good eye" at 15:18. You are right, none of the top veneer has been prepped yet, only trimmed back. The rollover will be getting sanded in (this weekend?), making a nice clean transition from top to sides, cutaway, routed pockets... I'm trying to get all the rough work done before I start fine tuning and doing pre-finish sanding. Kinda guessing there will be a number of little areas to deal with, but we're getting close to adding some color.... Hope that will be in the next episode. Thanks again for watchin and the keen eye to detail. Be safe and take care!

Hans, _(song intro) " the best part of waking up.... is the next project and a cup " ._ Needs a little work, but could be a catchy jingle. Sounds somewhat familiar however, lol. Thanks for joining me this morning. Be safe and take care my friend!

Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed the video.

fantomefx, thanks for watching! WOW, you have got a great channel, very cool stuff ! 👍

Andrea, thanks for watching! This was a really great project and a sweet guitar as a result. Now, I just need to learn to play it. Hope all is well, be safe and take care!

@@theNextProject I think learning to play it for you will be a pleasure!! Take care of yourself too, Thank you!!

Hoilst, thanks for watchin! No pickup swap (yet). The owner had only played it a few minutes before having these mods done. I think he's pretty happy with the guitar as-is - so far. Take care! _putting hands down now_

@@theNextProject I swear, those Rascal pups are gonna become cult favourite like goldfoils are in guitar. If there's a youtube in thirty, forty years, there's gonna be a video, about how, back "in 2023 Fender made an unusual, unique little bass humbucker, based on their Wide Range design, that you probably haven't heard of - but they weren't for any Fender bass. They were for an inexpensive little short-scale, the sort of thing you'd buy if you were a kid starting, or a guitarist who maybe wanted to cross over to the dark side..." I can see some artist's tone getting famous for wedging a pair of these in some exotic future bass.

Milan, thanks for watching! Winding a complete pickup coil by hand would require a lot of coffee! These low-wind, partial coils made to be used with software that can measure frequency response, so they are very low wind count. I wanted to show the option of taking an old pickup and recover the wire needed to make this coil for testing. I have a homemade coil winder that I use to wind complete pickups. Here's a link to that machine in action: ua-cam.com/video/1wE-vsxl1dw/v-deo.htmlsi=IMxkpxllQ1hzKqGr&t=88 Take care!

Milan, thanks for watching, and the interesting background information. This test wasn't really about making my own file (which may happen...), but more about comparing what is currently available and learning what works better for me. I was rather surprised by this test, and I expect everyone to have a different takeaway as well. I've heard that StewMac has "borrowed" ideas from others for years, possibly true, and I can imagine it is also possible the MN may have done that too, sorry if that is the case with the S-file. I've found myself "inventing" things, only to find that it already exists. Not saying that an idea or design you had wasn't borrowed, but I also see how many people can come up with the same, or very similar idea. I've read a couple forum posts where others have claimed to have made the safety rib on files in the past. Possibly one of those posts was also from you, I don't recall. Long ago, my father said to me "those old guys stole all my good ideas". He said this in a light-hearted fashion, basically explaining to me that someday I'll invent something that has already been done, and that has happened to me a number of times. Glad you like the channel, I try to share my good and bad projects, and how I stumble through them too. I hope to hear from you again. Be safe and take care!

@@theNextProject Sorry that ''eat up++ a few words. Yes i wrote at forum on a ger page and LP, in february or March this year and it was there for a 1 day and removed. I was punished lol, due to '' it's forbidden to say hat etc'' but i could return and i did. They took from my design 100%, i talked with lawyers mate both here in Europe and one lawyer in the US, As well as with IP office here. When i sent them mail, asking in a nice way to remove from commercial that they were the first etc and asked in between the lines to stop that. but they asked me did i patented it in the US ☺, that is an old myth. You don't have to patent a thing to be protected as designer as an author, and for sure not in every country. Since x years ago it's automatic that you as author and designer are protected what ever you write, draw, make, record, design nobody has right to take any part of your design with your written permission. Patent is different. With patented if a brand decide to sell to other company to use it, they must write their name, for example like it with Floyd Rose etc. Anyhow people don't know about that law regding IP law that protects authors and designers. Authors and designer rights which are intellectual property .From the moment you shared a post in a public on a FB, or some platform, or if you sent an e-mail, or you have a picture with newspapers and date etc you are protected as author. But people still copy things, even if you have a patent, or you it's yours IP and law protects you as author in case you didn't apply for a patent in some country..

@@theNextProject Sure no problem , We will stay in touch... * Yes the STM borrow the Z design far as i know. It happens all the time, as people say '' Copy is a form of flattering'' ..But it's also a bit bad feeling to ☺... When i mentioned that you can make your own file, i had something on my mind. Becouse one of my future possible options is maybe to share some designs with a people included with with a written permission and plans how to make 1 items for themselves - for a personal use... But i will see what the future brings, also i invested years into education, and i have other designs, so i wish to help community, but also i can't die penniless and on street. Anyhow i'll find a a way... IMHO a HQ fret file made in the west should cost more then 30-40$ max and it should last for years. from one person from Italy, he have a small company, but i don't know him, and my ''company'' is even small for what he has lol ☺.. Thx for the kind words! I wish you all the best! You have a great YTC, i like it.

Rob, you are not alone. Threaded rod is the problem, and a "fix" can be a chore. The threaded rod I have has/had the same issue. Initially it had a pretty bad wobble on one side. I pulled the rod, put it in a "flat-flat" surface and rolled it to find the hump, which was not intl the middle of the rod, bit more towards one end. I ended up propped the rod on a block and jumped on it a couple times, rechecking on the flat surface. Finally got it reasonably flat. This is truly a hillbilly way to straighten the rod. I'm currently looking at a precision rod, and will be welding threaded ends on it. Still looking for a machine shop to thread me a shaft too, but seems like no one does that any longer. You may want to take a look at more rods, there may be one good one in a dozen. Good luck and take care!

@theNextProject thank you so much John. I'm actually thinking of switching to 1.25 shaft. Chris from Highline Guitars uses this and he gave the link from McMaster. It is almost $100 but it might be worth the investment. I'm using a 3/4 shaft currently

3/4" is on the small side, and Chris's 1-1/4" may offer some benefit. Hopefully it will be straight. I'm using a 1", mainly because of buffing pads and end plates. I don't know what upcharge there may be for 1-1/4" buffs and plates. Would be interesting to compare pricing. Keep me posted as your build continues. 👍

Sean, thanks for watching! Sorry to hear you have the shoulder bolt issue going on too. I just uploaded the parts diagram and put a link to it in the video description. Also... here it is: www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/1hnlyjp6nz60m3h3fksdg/Ridgid-WS-12-DPEC006601-R4840-OSS-Parts-Manual.pdf?rlkey=c5bv1sbb0zjk6jstbfzv7x7dr&st=hgmkrk1d&dl=0 I hope this helps and I hope Ridgid just sends you the parts you need. Good luck with you project!

@@theNextProjectthank you so much for sharing the video and parts list. I could not find the full exploded view anywhere on the net for the life of me. It has all been very helpful!

Stone, thanks for watching and congrats on the new (to you) Rascal Bass!!! I don't actually know what tuners would be a direct drop-in replacement. I'd need to measure the mounting hole spacing on the back of the headstock, and also the tuning shaft hole in the headstock. I'm sure there are a lot of options available, but you will need to know those dimensions to get the perfect drop-in fit. Sorry I can't help, but the Rascal I worked on went back to the owner right after I wrapped it up. He's loving it. Enjoy you new guitar, be safe and take care!

Jake, thanks for watching! The SM center Z-file will be a good tool for you. I don't know if you got the full-length file, or the compact version that I used in this video. I found the compact very uncomfortable to use, but as a "touch-up" tool it should be great. My main gripe was ergonomics really. I wouldn't survive using it on a full fretboard, but for spot work, or the few frets where the neck and body overlap, it would be perfect. Good luck with your LP project. Be safe and take care!

Thanks for watchin! Agreed, this bass was a bit dark initially. Ended up putting a 500K tone pot in, that did help. If I recall, the vol was a 250K. Also added a different cap... Here's a peek at the wiring: ua-cam.com/video/emj80n6wPos/v-deo.htmlsi=Cmz8PMQOT34-pPK3&t=425 Good luck with your bass, take care!

ziggarillo, thanks for watching! True, a scratch build is at times faster, but that's a different type of project and process. The idea here, was to take something that was already a complete guitar, and modify it. It also presents some unique issues to work with, or around. I enjoy creating a challenge for myself, builds character, or something, lol. Hope all is well, be safe and take care!

Hey "Url", thanks for watching! ( I enjoyed your sitcom years back ) Please see the video description, 2/3rds of the way down. There is a list of parts that I used for this particular HP laptop. What you will need will likely vary. Hope this helps, good luck with your project!

Joseph, thanks for wacthing! That suggestion has come up a few times, and I've given it a little thought, but no plans designed yet. I have a potential neck-through bass build, so that may be a good excuse to develop such a fixture. However, that won't be until mid-'25. Stay tuned, it might happen. Be safe and take care!