Cool video, I just learned about this video this weekend, a friend sent me the link and said, “hey this guy mentioned you a couple times in this video” Nice, I’m honored.
Hey Randy, glad your friend let you know. I think I added a "mention/link" to your channel in the description as well, but not really sure if, or how, that works. Thank you for the videos you post, good projects you have going on. I appreciate how you keep revisiting and improving on tools such as this. Be safe and take care! - John
You've re-invented (or discovered) and old tool called a "Turning Box" (AKA Moulding Box, Fluting Box), used in conjunction with a scratch stock for putting decorative longitudinal mouldings on stair columns, table legs and so on.
Paul, thanks for watching! I figured the idea had been invented years ago. A lot of current "ideas" are pretty old, often stumbled upon or moved from one industry to another. I've heard of the Turning Box, and a few other comments have mentioned the turning box too. Good to know some folks are up to speed on history! Hope all is well for you, be safe and take care.
Thanks for the safety alert!! I have had this exact thing happen to me and had no idea why the bit moved. Now I know what to look for, I do not want to have a bit screaming past my ear.
Hans, thanks for watching (twice)! I hope others can get ideas, borrow and make them better. A fun hobby, a long of things to learn and share. Always great to hear from you and thank you for hanging out with me. Be safe and take care my friend!
Randy, thanks for watching! Hope you are doing well. LOL, "Collector" of jigs perhaps, bwahahaha! King does have a nice ring to it however. Have you gone through all those tuners yet? I'm starting a new collection, but not into as many kits lately. I'll keep you in mind though. Be safe and take care!
This is really amazing. Been thinking about a simple neck carving contraption. My original idea had the router fixed to some sort of 'dome' or 'arch' amd the neck static below. But this is way more elegant. Loved your style of subtle humor and 'wing it' approach. Keep it up. Subbed.
Ed, thanks for watching! This is my 3rd "powered" neck carving contraption. Each process has its pros & cons. So far, this fixture offers more potential for variety of neck profile shapes. I'm liking it so far. Here is a link that is possibly along the line of what you have been considering: ua-cam.com/video/ECCnOaCShnc/v-deo.html I use this style fixture for fingerboard radius, both loose fingerboards and bolt-on neck with fingerboard attached. Glad you are enjoying the projects and my "humor". I try not to get too serious about anything, at least not on the surface. Deep down, I'm all business, lol Good luck with your projects!
Zen, thanks for watching! Yep, I'm hoping when I get around to scratch build and such, I'll be able to do quicker more accurate work. Hope all is well for you, take care!
M.A., thanks for watching! I may have used the wrong term when talking about faceting, but that's kinda what was going on. I tried 3 different bits, a 2-flute spiral bit, a 2 -flute straight cut bit, and a 1"w bowl/tray bit which has a flat bottom and rounded edges for cutting. The bowl bit is currently my favorite, greatly reduces the faceting and gives a much smoother cut overall. In hindsight, a flat bottom bit seems most appropriate. Something like a wasteboard flattening bit, or in this case the bowl/tray bit. Here is a similar bit to what I ended up using on the LP neck I've made. www.amazon.com/Yonico-Bowl-Tray-Template-Router/dp/B07CSH8DPM?th=1 Hope this helps, be safe and take care!
Sorry for commenting this late. I started to watch yesterday, and now I'm ready. I'm a little unwell right now, everything takes me longer. But soon I'll be well again.
LOL, yes it does! I'm pretty happy with this tool. Now I need to get busy and start building more guitars. I'm guessing you probably have some new builds underway too. Good luck with your projects, be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject Definitely, new builds are underway. You need to. The world to get their hands on your amazing craft. Here it's unfortunate that guitar prices are too low and little demotivating. The imported ones from China are sold for abnormally low prices.
Thank you for upload and thank you for your plans 🙏, I’m about to build one of these as a test to see if I can carve a guitar neck without being so dependent upon cnc machine.
Dean, thanks for watching! The PDF is more "idea" than "plan". You will need to verify all dimensions, and dimensions of your lumber... typical stuff. Improve the "idea" wherever you can, make it better! If you have a CNC, you could probably cut a lot of the parts for this build more accurately than I did. Also, once you dial-in your end cams... endless possibilities. Good luck with your project, be safe, have fun, take care!
@@theNextProjectthank you 🙏, I made a start by 3D printing the carriage ends and adding threaded inserts to the back of them to make puck changes nice and easy. I’ve used your idea as a reference as being in the UK a lot of my lumber and hardware is metric. I’ll have to report back once I’m running the jig 😅
Joseph, thanks for wacthing! That suggestion has come up a few times, and I've given it a little thought, but no plans designed yet. I have a potential neck-through bass build, so that may be a good excuse to develop such a fixture. However, that won't be until mid-'25. Stay tuned, it might happen. Be safe and take care!
That's an arduous video to edit. I feel your pain. I need to fine tune my version of this, and your timing is prefect. Very much appreciated boss. Lots of improvements on mine.
Milehouse, thanks for watching! True, editing video is as involved as the actual project, maybe more. Had a hard time getting it down to what we have here. Good luck with your projects, take care!
might be usable to make compound radius fretboards too , you need to hang it upside down over a belt grinder though been looking intoo a jig for that and was thinking on just cutting a regtangle piece of plywood ar a slant 9.5 inches on one end and 15 inches on the other over the total length of the fretboard , cut a split down the slanted piece on both ends and fitt doorhinges in that that hang it from a contruction hanging over a moveable belt sander (could be as simple as hanging it from the edge of the workbench with the beltsander sitting on the floor ) and hang the neck in some way (neck pocket with a scew and a bolt through one of the tunerholes i guess ) with the fingerboard down of the hinged piece the underside holding the neck must be perfectly level over the sander and basicly sway it back and forth over the beltsander untill it doesnt sand any more off then move to the next bit untill you done the whole fretboard could move the beltsander up and down to cut more of the fingerboard by stacking sheets of thin plywood or melamine under it you can still use the later router though you need to raise the sides of youre jig or the sides of youre sled and use a longer bit to clear everything
watahyahknow, thanks for watching! I've thought about this fixture for fingerboard radius, but this thing is really set up for tighter radius'. I made a fingerboard radius jig some time ago, but it's not for compound radius, just a single continuous radius. Here's a link to that project. ua-cam.com/video/ECCnOaCShnc/v-deo.html I've thought about a belt sander too, but I don't have one with a large enough bed to catch the full length of a fingerboard, especially not a bass scale board. Probably a lot of ways to accomplish this. More thinking and project for the future. Be safe and take care!
1) Most important part of this vid by far is the safety warning about loose bits. I too own this exact palm router, and I came within 10 milliseconds once of a bit flying out of it. I too noticed that something squirrely was going on with my cut, and I stopped the router just before bullet time. That'll stop your heart momentarily. That was all the wakeup call I needed to be sure that the bit is properly tightened down. NOT the fault of the router (which is a fine one), but my negligence. 2) I too have endured my share of being annoyed by the cord of routers getting in the way. I guess (like most of my other tools) I'll eventually convert most of them to battery powered. 3) I would never make an electric guitar neck from scratch. I buy the completely finished ones (frets and all) sourced from China. The electric necks they're cranking out nowadays are superb and inexpensive. Just as good (better imo) than anything Fender or Gibson have ever produced. I buy the flamed maple ones with flamed maple fingerboards. Gorgeous! The barrel is very comfortable in the hand, whether the 42mm (Fender) or the 43mm (Gibson) versions. Plus, the clear finish is spot-on perfect. The flamed maple look really dresses up a build and makes it snazzy and something to be proud of. I pair those necks with Fender-issue gold tuners with white pearl buttons for Strat/Tele builds. Why go the blah/typical look when you can go whole hog and make that thing look very classy for relatively cheap bucks? You can have those (overpriced) axes that look that they've been dragged over an asphalt parking lot to "age" them. Ugh! (Tip: the only thing that's going to make you play like SRV is a lot of practice - the guitar itself isn't going to do that.) 4) Acoustic necks are a completely different matter. I would never buy one of those pre-made. The headscratcher is how to make a one-piece neck with one of these "barbeque spits" as I like call them, without CNC. But would be great if making a two-piece neck (barrel with glued-on heel), and staining the whole thing a dark cherry color, for example, to hide the spice, which drives me crazy if left exposed. I've done the heel-splice thing on a stained Gibson acoustic (restored neck) and it worked out great - splice is invisible. But a Martin copy is where you run into trouble, and that's where you need a one-piece neck. 5) GREAT explanation and video of this gizmo - one of the best I've seen. Very well narrated - didn't mumble his way through the whole thing.
Netter, thanks for watching! Nice comment, thanks for the info. Yep, I've seen some of those Asian guitar necks, glad you're liking them and they are working well for you. I've only had a couple, nothing fancy and I'm guessing the quality is probably better now than when I had purchased. Acoustic necks are a special thing aren't they. That long heel block, hmm. Glad you liked the project video. Be safe and take care!
Jeff, thanks for watching! The fretboard radius jig is a great tool, saves a lot of elbow and shoulder wear, glad it worked for you. It sounds like you're already addicted to all this. Good luck with your projects, keep me posted. Be safe and take care!
@@theNextProjectI am. I started building my first guitar amp about a year ago and have build several pedals. I figure the next step should be a guitar.
That sounds great and you've got the electronics part under your belt... that's one of my weaknesses. I keep trying, but I forget as quickly as I learn.
Just one paper template?! Now that's a real dissapointment 😁... Turned out pretty nice there though. Keep up the good work, and stay safe! Greetings, PTR
PTR, thanks for watching! LOL, I did have a couple pieces of paper but one was crumpled up on the floor part of the time. The plan pdf has 5 pages of ideas, and another pdf with some build notes. That should keep you busy for a bit. Take carel
Could this be done using a large radius roundover bit (say, 1"), with one pass along the right side of the neck, and another pass along the left side, and with each pass slightly tapering the cut towards the nut? You wouldn't need a movable fixture. The neck would be fixed down, with the router moved along it to cut each half of the profile.
1man, thanks for watching! Yes and no, kinda, maybe. An offset stand for the router could be built, the neck mounted as you mentioned, with the appropriate "angle" to account for the difference in depth of cut from nut to heel... So, yep it can be done. It will be a handheld, portable pinless router - of sorts. I've used 3/4, 7/8, and 1" roundover bits. Settled on the 7/8" roundover, but used a two different processes to get there. The issue with a fixed radius roundover is that is what you get, which is okay, it will remove a lot of wood quickly. Rasp, file and sanding will follow. The 7/8" bit can be mounted in a table router, and the neck blank prepped for taper nut to heel so the bearing has a good surface to follow. An offset space added at the heel end to help get the slightly deeper cut at the nut end... works reasonably well for a fender strat/tele style neck. Still have final rasp/file and sanding work to tie in the headstock and heel. But will cut away alot of the arm work quickly. Downside is the exposed bit right up where it can remove important appendages. Another similar but inverted process can be made by creating a pin-router/overhead router of sorts. I've used this method a couple times as well. The overhead router method allow for angle headtock and thicker heel type necks, like gibson LP, 335... Here's a link to that rig: ua-cam.com/video/ICoYN7QxaBE/v-deo.htmlsi=RKQ51CM4ax4fDmR5&t=336 So, a lot of different ways to accomplish, or nearly accomplish the task. Each have their pros and cons. Each has their place too. All good. Good luck with your projects, be safe and take care!
Made a routing jig also and turned the concept kind of upside down. The cradle is static. No rubber bands no slit in the end plates. The sledge is resting on a frame inside of the box which is resting on the cams and gravity will assure pressure against the cam and the bearing. Swappable 3D printed cams for different neck profiles. Nice content on your channel 👍
Hannu, thanks for watching! I have a pretty good idea what you're talking about. I made fingerboard radius fixture a while back, which may be similar to what you mention, only on a smaller scale. Really cool how there are so many ways to accomplish a goal. I've been thinking of 3D printing parts for some time, just haven't gotten around to figuring out what 3D printer is best for my random projects, budget, space and time. Any printer suggestions, or warnings? I primarily run a Mac platform, but also have an old PC that may be used for such things. Budget is minimal, space somewhat limited. Thanks, and take care!
@@theNextProject Hello, what I have is a basic Ender 3 which I bought some years ago. It was cheap (something like 200€), If you do not want extreme speed or large build volume it gets the job done. What I have done lately is ordering 3d printed parts from JLCPCB. They are reasonable priced, and you can skip the hassle with printing. Keep the good stuff coming. Cheers.
I didn't think of outsourcing 3D parts. Thanks for the other info regarding what you are using. I've been trying to figure out if, and how often, my work process benefit from 3D parts. I'd probably invent reasons to make parts, LOL. That's what I do, I create work for myself. Glad you like the videos, be safe and take care!
States, thanks for watching! Yes, 3D printed would be great.... but I don't have a 3D printer, not really a budget for that. But.... the thought has been crossing my mind more frequently however. Any suggestions? Be safe and take care!
Yes, watch out for dropping a bit, clean the shank or shaft of the bits! ( I've seen production shaper bits come apart,..adjustable wing types...always double check your cutters
Glen, thanks for watching! Completely agree with you. Care and handling of bits doesn't get talked about enough. I've seen so many people just throw bits in a drawer with other bits. Bad, bad, bad... I don't have any shaper bits, no room for big boy tools, lol. (no money either). The need to clean the shank is why I mentioned such in this video, felt it was worth mentioning. There was definitely something keeping this bit from getting gripped properly. Probably a combination of the shank and the collet. All better now. Hope all is well for ya, be safe and take care!
Stephen, thanks for watching! I've considered a ball bit, have a 3/4" bowl, which is basically a ball end. I ended up using a 1" bowl/tray bit on the LP neck at the end of the video. It did a great job, as it has a flat bottom and rounded edges, didn't leave the faceting like the spiral and straight edge bits I used during testing. I may tray the finer ball end on some on the next tests, thanks! Be safe and take care!
Mark, thanks for watching! Agree, wood dust, MDF dust, metal grindings... all bad stuff. I do use some dust collection...not always. I'm a bad example. Hope all is well, be safe and take care!
Hey Laura, thanks for watching! I wonder who the original genius' were that came up with this idea. Definitely wasn't me, I would have waaaay over thought the idea...wait a minute, I still did over think this. Ugh! Be safe and take care!
NewTech, thanks for watching! I had originally thought about a ball nose bit, and have a 3/4" on hand, but chose to try the straight flute and spiral bits initially. The final finish from the straight bits didn't really impress me, but they did work, mostly. The concern I had with the ball nose was the number of passes need to get a smooth routing. I know that style bit would be ideal for CNC, with 1/32" or 1/16" spaced passes (high resolution cutting), but I wanted to move quicker, I'm impatient. In the end, I used a 1" bowl/tray bit, which seemed to be the best of both worlds. It has rounded edges like the ball nose bit, and a flat bottom area that did a great job of smoothing away the fluted linear pass lines. Not sure if you saw the final real neck routing, but this is where I was testing the bowl bit. ua-cam.com/video/hvtz_ozzwnc/v-deo.htmlsi=hbRSMfH1DtYut-Z2&t=1549 Hope all is well for you, be safe and take care!
Great video! So well detailed throughout the process. If I ever decide to make a jig I’ll definitely be coming back to this video as a reference guide! What type of pine are you using? Just like a 2x4 piece of lumber?
Jake, thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed the project. The pine is simple 1x6 or 1x8, so roughly 3/4" thick. Template cut to resemble whatever neck I was trying to mimic. I added a 1/4" thick MDF fingerboard to get the overall neck-blank thickness before routing. I think I made 4 tele test necks for about $10, and 3 more bass necks for another 10. Way cheaper to practice and screw up than a good maple neck. I was actually being smart during this project. Typically I just jump in and hope for the best...rarely works for me. Hope all is well, take care!
Brilliant video, and thank you so much for taking the time to make and upload your videos.. Keep up the great work.. Its really appreciated. My question is... Would it be possible to make a similar jig for doing the radius of the fretboard..and could it be also adjustable to carve different neck radius sizes? Thanks again, Ray from Ireland.
Ray, thanks for watching and the kind words! Yes, a similar yet different jig can be made for radiusing the fretboard. I've made a video of such a tool, here's the link: ua-cam.com/video/ECCnOaCShnc/v-deo.html Here is a PDF link showing drawings of different radius': www.dropbox.com/s/focvdbrrbxl79of/FingerboardRadiusFixture.pdf?dl=0 There are a number of people making similar fixtures, some for sale... Hope this helps!
Awww, but you didn't give us the usual tone demonstration at the end! I need to know if it's a "BZZZZRRTRTRT", or more of a vintage "MMRRRROOWWRRBRBRB". Nice diagram graphics! And yeeeesh, thinking about that tool-failure ballistic shrapnel, eye and ear protection doesn't seem enough...
LOL, BZZZRRTRTRT. HAhaHa, that is probably is the sound a router makes translated to Closed Captions. I bet you are pretty close. I think the diagrams help, I know Iike seeing how and where the parts go. True, eye and ear protection wouldn't have done much to protect from a flying router bit. I was probably 20 feet or more from where it launched. Everyone was lucky that day. It was a little different setup, as the bit left a router table, so it went up-ish, then sideways. The project I have here, the bit would drill down into the neck, then...somewhere. Unknown dangers waiting for us. Hope all is well, take care my friend!
Nice one! Thanks for sharing the process and being so open about the incremental refinements you found it necessary to make. Do you reckon that this same thingy could be used to cut different radii into fingerboards, providing cams of the correct radius are in place? Just thinking aloud … Cheers!
MuseumsBloke, good to hear from you and thanks for watching! Great question and I have kinda wondered the same thing. My initial concern it that the radius this size box is best suited for would be too small for a fingerboard. I have made a linear radius fixture which works really really well, but if you're after a compound radius it's not the tool. Otherwise it's easy enough to make, and can be made for pretty much any radius. ua-cam.com/video/ECCnOaCShnc/v-deo.html I need to put my thinking cap on and work on (look for) a good compound radius fixture. Be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject This was very clear and easy to follow video. I've built a couple of Warmoth guitars and refinished some guitars that were destroyed in a fire. I'm looking to start building and was concerned about building a neck. This helps alot.
Glad to hear this was easy to follow. I often wonder if what I say makes sense to others. Sounds like you're on a good path to complete builds. After you're first neck, it will be child's play for you. Good luck, be safe and take care!
Stephen, thanks for watching! Yes it will handle a Gibson style and scale neck. The very end of the video, I did a real neck carve for an Epiphone LP project I'm working on. Handles an angle headstock and tenon easy enough. Great question, sorry I didn't really comment on that. Take care!
Well done! I'm contemplating building one of these myself except even longer so I can shape neck-through style necks. I just complete a neck made primarily of purple heart and it was absolute murder to work with. Any thoughts?
Doug, thanks for watching! I was thinking about a neck-through as I was making this fixture. Had a couple ideas, but one would likely not work. The other is basically just a longer version of this build. I think the box would need to be a couple inches wider to accommodate for the taper of the neck as it is projected to the end cams. The box is 8" wide + side thickness, maybe a 10" or 12" wide box would be needed. A big sheet of paper or a drafting program could get a better idea. Purpleheart, WOW, that stuff is very hard. Only used it a couple times, sands really hard, other wood around it sands away while the PH just stays there. Oh, and the need to de-oil it really well before any glue up. Tough stuff. Let me know your thoughts on a super-size carving fixture. I'm sure other peps will be wondering the same thing. Be safe and take care!
Thanks for watching. There isn't any "standard" cams to be found, as each carving fixture will require its own specific cams. An overview of how I made my cams from an existing neck is here: ua-cam.com/video/hvtz_ozzwnc/v-deo.htmlsi=mcb54ZYKLPH6HWiW&t=734 Randy's Guitars and Broncos, has a great video of building a similar carving fixture and making cams from an existing neck. He is using basically the same process and does a pretty good job of showing the cam making process. Sorry I can't help more with this. Good luck with your projects!
That’s more or less the rig that I have. I love it but I do not love that it leaves the 90* edges that still take a lot of time to transition. Nigel Forrester came up with a similar design, but for a shaper, running on the radiused side of the bit. Goes from blank to ready to sand in one go as the radiused bit does the transitions at the same time. Can’t wait to buy a shaper and make one. Neck carving is always something of a bottleneck…
Halcyon Guitars, thanks for watching! I may have seen something similar in use by Wayne Charvel in his home shop. He used a special radius bit in a shaper (or big table router), and knocked out the back of the neck shape in a couple passes. I borrowed from that a few years back and used a 7/8" roundover bit in a table router to do a couple necks. Wasn't a turn-key process but did cut away a lot of material fast - didn't feel very safe however. Followed that by making an overhead router (pin router) setup, used that a couple times, again using the 7/8" roundover bit. Worked pretty well for angle headstock necks, still left a lot of finish work to do. That brings me here.... I shaper would be nice, but I need a bigger workspace and deeper pockets. So many ideas and options, just gotta go with what works at the time. Hope all is going well for you, be safe and take care!
I can't thank you enough for this and the radius jig! I watched Randys vid as well and thought the pencil copying was brilliant. I am sure your experiments will save me a ton of trial and error... which I was not much looking forward to! Your contributions to the community are so helpful and much appreciated.
Spike, thanks for watching! Hope the project works out for you. Be prepare to spend some time up front getting those radius cams dialed in. The first couple took me some time, then I started to understand the process better and now I'm thinking I can make them pretty fast and have a good idea what a little sanding here or there will accomplish. Test, test, test. Good luck with your projects, take are!
@theNextProject Wow thanks for the reply! When using the actual neck for copying to the the radiused cams, did you use some kind of radiused caul beneath the fretboard of the neck to get it to sit flat?
Great question(s), if copying an existing neck (without frets) you can simply stick it down to the neck platform. If the existing neck has frets, you'll either need to trace the section shapes on the cams then adjust for the fret height offset, or have a notched neck platform to allow for the frets. Here's a link to Randy's Guitars and Broncos, he has a platform that is notched so the frets don't impact the neck shape tracing. ua-cam.com/video/AXjW8cOZ_E0/v-deo.html He's got some good ideas built in there. So far, I've only copied one neck with frets in place, and just compensated for the height offset of frets being in the neck. The frets don't impact the width of the cam, only the height and taper/diminish as the shape rounds to the edges of the fingerboard... oh, that sounds confusing. Let me know if you have other questions, I'll check back here occaionally. Take care!
@@theNextProject Much appreciated thanks. Experience tells me I'm probably better off to attempt building a caul with the the slots removed - a la Randy. I'd rather create a resonably repeatable solution for copying different profiles as needed. I'm trying to avoid creating another complex jig to create the first jig! Love your simple solutions to complex problems.... thanks again.
Loved it. Great distraction from all the craziness of the news. Question??.. have you thought about "drop in" cams .. So changing up for different profiles would be easier?
Robert, thanks for watching! That sounds like a great idea, now I have a legit reason to buy a 3D printer, Bwahahaha! Seriously, that would/could simplify some things, hmm. A 3D printer could come in handy too... oh I need to stop thinking about that. Take care man!
Sergio, thanks for watching! Depending on the neck, going from a C to a D may not be possible, or it may be...depending on the neck. Some say the D is in between a U and a C, others say that U and C are roughly the same, with the U being a bit chunkier at the sides. The D is either fuller than the C, or is similar to a C but with a slightly thinner and flattened center are along its spine... Ugh! Consistently inconsistent information, clearly vague. Depending on the neck, you may be able to sand the neck to a slimmer profile along the spine/back, feathering the shape into the sides, possibly getting a more "D" section shape. This may depend on the starting dimensions of the neck and also the type of trussrod that is in the neck. Some neck profiles are quite close to the truss rod around the 1st fret. So reshaping the back of the neck could be risky depending the starting neck shape and truss rod. You may have seen videos or photos of someone who wanted to slim their baseball bat neck, only to find a trussrod. It happens. Sorry, no "one size fits all" answer for you. It might be worthwhile getting some neck profile templates, both C and D, to check what you are starting with and to compare the differences. This won't tell you how much wood can be removed before finding the trussrod, but if you know the style of trussrod in the neck, you can get an idea. Good luck with your project. Be safe and take care!
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But if you’re building new necks from scratch, different radius cams would produce different profiles. So the jig can do D or C or whatever, right?
Sven, yes if you are building new necks they you could reference and use cams made to C or D shape specs. I may do a follow up video in the future, showing this process. Just need to find a little time for that. Great question and thanks for asking. Take care!
@@theNextProject Sorry, but I think I asked my question wrong. My English is very basic. I don't want to modify the profile of an already made neck, I want to make a new neck, just like you do, a whole new guitar/bass. But if a client asks me for a D profile or a C profile, where can I download the file to copy it? I hope that now you understand my question. I'm from Argentina.Thanks for answering me so quickly
Sergio, sorry I misunderstood. Here's an article about neck shapes: www.electricherald.com/guitar-neck-profile-guide/ Here's a link to a PDF which you may be able to convert to other formats for your use. www.electricherald.com/downloads/Fender-Neck-Profiles.pdf There are other templates to be found, you'll need to google for something closer to what you need. Good luck!
Ranman, hey there, thanks for watching! Yep, this contraption would be a pretty good way to copy an existing neck that you like. I'm having fun with it so far. Hope all is well, take care man!
@@theNextProject , ah 😎 man. I love what you're doing. Since I nearly melted my mouth yesterday by pouring hot tea kettle water in my mouth to rinse my even dirtier hands of sanding dost that was probably toxic. 😆 I got lucky with the ice as I ran down the hill to extinguish the fire in my mouth and on my lips. (No basin up here) yet! Uh yeah, I'm ok, chapped lips amd a raw mouth.
Bonjour ,je suis français et je ne comprends très mal votre langue. Je n’ai donc pas pu bien comprendre exactement si vous êtes professionnel dans la lutherie ou la menuiserie, ou simplement un passionné. La maîtrise apparente de vos outils ne me permet pas de bien juger. Cependant la sympathie que m’inspire votre démonstration ,votre assurance ,et votre gentillesse, me pousse à vous mettre en garde en ce qui concerne votre scie circulaire sur table qui m’a l’air d’être une tueuse de doigts.si vous êtes musiciens vous êtes sûrement attentif à cela. S’il vous plaît renseignez vous sur une pratique plus sûr pour vos mains . Cela m’attristerait vraiment qu’il vous arrive un accident.pardon de cette ingerance mais c’est plus fort que moi
Merci d'avoir cherché et de vous soucier de ma sécurité. J'apprécie grandement votre message et votre inquiétude. Je ne suis ni musicien ni menuisier. Un amateur qui espère partager mes intérêts avec d'autres, comme vous. Comme vous l’avez mentionné, la scie à table est un outil qui provoque de nombreux accidents douloureux. Même si mes doigts peuvent paraître très proches de la lame, sachez que je garde mes mains le plus loin possible. Je comprends le danger et respecte les dommages et la douleur que cette machine peut causer. Merci encore pour votre sollicitude ! J'espère que vous trouverez les projets intéressants et, j'espère, qu'ils vous fourniront des idées ou de l'inspiration pour vos propres projets. Soyez prudent et prenez soin de vous ! ===== Thank you for looking and for being concerned for my safety. I greatly appreciate your message and your concern. I am neither a musician nor a carpenter. A hobbyist who hopes to share my interests with others, like you. As you mentioned, the table saw is a tool that causes many painful accidents. Even though my fingers may seem very close to the blade, know that I keep my hands as far away as possible. I understand the danger and respect the damage and pain this machine can cause. Thank you again for your concern! I hope you find the projects interesting and, I hope, that they provide you with ideas or inspiration for your own projects. Be safe and take care of yourself!
Thanks for watching Mike! I don't think Laura would appreciate me clamping things to her countertop anyway, so I better stay in the garage. Hope all is well for ya, take care my friend!
halfabee, thanks for watching! I cleaned the router shaft with a green scotchbite, so basically a fine paper. Need to be careful with repeated cleanings of such kind as to not change the dimension of the shaft. Doesn't sound like a thing, but those are tight tolerance items. Cleaning out the collet is a good habit too. Always some sawdust in there. Hope all is well, be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject Hi, I stumbled onto your channel. Yes, I use to make round columns with flutes in them and used ( made) something similar to what you have there. Not sure if you know or not???? But when one puts a router bit into the collet, dont put the bit in all the way. The reason being, the bit will loosen itself and come out, when the router is running. ALWAYS, put the bit in all the way and bring it out about a little more than a 1/16 ". Maybe 3/32". If you look at all the router bits, where the shaped part is and where it meets up to the actual shank, that area is a little bigger plus its concave. If the collet clamps onto that area, just with the router turning on, with the torque is enough to start the bit getting loose. Always pull the router bit out before you tighten the collet!
G M, thanks for watching! Yep, I know what you're mentioning and completely agree with you. Don't bottom the bits in the collet. Some bits have a marking for minimum insertion too, which I like. I've seen too many videos with bits not inserted deep enough, a disaster waiting to happen. There are a lot of these things we (I) take for granted, having used these tools for years or learned from others. A lot of people have taken up these hobbies (covid shutdown) and have no background in using such tools. Suggestions like you made are in the manuals, but not many people read the manual, lol. As I mentioned, I was in a shop where a bit got loose. It was in a table router set-up, the bit went UP, then sideways... Everyone was looking around. I initially had no idea where the noises came from. Found out a few minutes later, where a small group had gathered. I don't know if it was a dirty bit, loose collect, improperly seated...all of the above maybe. We were all lucky that day. Be safe and take care!
Freddy's Frets, builds some great guitars. Have enjoyed his video for a long time. I like when he gets his dad involved. Good seeing generations together. Thanks for watching, be safe and take care!
@@theNextProjectThe box that Freddy uses is in video number 10. I love his work with those 3 Les Pauls!! Please, if you can, make a template for that box... that is a great help to make the holes in the body of the neck socket, the ears/legs at the correct angle/degree and the pickup holes. Sorry if the English is not correct. (I'm using google translator).
LOL, nope, no riving knife, no blade guard, no frills. It did come with a terrible riving knife and anti-kickback attachment, but they were so poorly designed they made the saw more dangerous to use - at least to me. The factory fence was also a piece of garbage, just garbage. I purchased this saw new 24+ years ago, and expected to burn it up during a remodeling job... it's still running. Tough saw. Hope all is well, be safe and take care!
Cool video, I just learned about this video this weekend, a friend sent me the link and said, “hey this guy mentioned you a couple times in this video” Nice, I’m honored.
Hey Randy, glad your friend let you know. I think I added a "mention/link" to your channel in the description as well, but not really sure if, or how, that works.
Thank you for the videos you post, good projects you have going on. I appreciate how you keep revisiting and improving on tools such as this.
Be safe and take care!
- John
Thanks for the shout out- this looks like great fun!
All good man, appreciate the work you do and videos.
Pretty sure others will enjoy your stuff too.
Be safe and take care!
You've re-invented (or discovered) and old tool called a "Turning Box" (AKA Moulding Box, Fluting Box), used in conjunction with a scratch stock for putting decorative longitudinal mouldings on stair columns, table legs and so on.
Paul, thanks for watching!
I figured the idea had been invented years ago. A lot of current "ideas" are pretty old, often stumbled upon or moved from one industry to another.
I've heard of the Turning Box, and a few other comments have mentioned the turning box too. Good to know some folks are up to speed on history!
Hope all is well for you, be safe and take care.
Thanks for providing the plans, your awesome!
You're welcome, and thanks for watching!
Good luck with your projects, take care
Thanks for the safety alert!! I have had this exact thing happen to me and had no idea why the bit moved. Now I know what to look for, I do not want to have a bit screaming past my ear.
Steve, thanks for watching!
Yep, sometimes those bits just want out... not a good thing.
Be safe and take care!
Grazie.
Enrico, thank you very much!
I love your content. Every video is worth watching twice. Thank you for sharing.
Hans, thanks for watching (twice)!
I hope others can get ideas, borrow and make them better. A fun hobby, a long of things to learn and share.
Always great to hear from you and thank you for hanging out with me.
Be safe and take care my friend!
Dude, you are the king of jigs!! 👍👍👍💪
23:49 ... Punk Rock ... aka Cruel Shoes (Steve Martin reference)
Randy, thanks for watching!
Hope you are doing well.
LOL, "Collector" of jigs perhaps, bwahahaha!
King does have a nice ring to it however.
Have you gone through all those tuners yet?
I'm starting a new collection, but not into as many kits lately. I'll keep you in mind though.
Be safe and take care!
The children called him big nose…
This is really amazing. Been thinking about a simple neck carving contraption. My original idea had the router fixed to some sort of 'dome' or 'arch' amd the neck static below. But this is way more elegant. Loved your style of subtle humor and 'wing it' approach. Keep it up. Subbed.
Ed, thanks for watching!
This is my 3rd "powered" neck carving contraption. Each process has its pros & cons. So far, this fixture offers more potential for variety of neck profile shapes. I'm liking it so far.
Here is a link that is possibly along the line of what you have been considering:
ua-cam.com/video/ECCnOaCShnc/v-deo.html
I use this style fixture for fingerboard radius, both loose fingerboards and bolt-on neck with fingerboard attached.
Glad you are enjoying the projects and my "humor". I try not to get too serious about anything, at least not on the surface. Deep down, I'm all business, lol
Good luck with your projects!
This is fantastic work. It will certainly help speed up neck shaping for you moving forward.
Zen, thanks for watching!
Yep, I'm hoping when I get around to scratch build and such, I'll be able to do quicker more accurate work.
Hope all is well for you, take care!
Thanks mate for sharing this, and the plans. I’ve been looking into building this jig for a while. Nice work
Roel, thanks for watching, take the idea and make it better!
Good luck with your projects, take care
That's brilliant! When you talking about the faceting, I was thinking about a rounded bit of some sort. Really cool to see your whole process.
M.A., thanks for watching!
I may have used the wrong term when talking about faceting, but that's kinda what was going on.
I tried 3 different bits, a 2-flute spiral bit, a 2 -flute straight cut bit, and a 1"w bowl/tray bit which has a flat bottom and rounded edges for cutting.
The bowl bit is currently my favorite, greatly reduces the faceting and gives a much smoother cut overall.
In hindsight, a flat bottom bit seems most appropriate. Something like a wasteboard flattening bit, or in this case the bowl/tray bit.
Here is a similar bit to what I ended up using on the LP neck I've made.
www.amazon.com/Yonico-Bowl-Tray-Template-Router/dp/B07CSH8DPM?th=1
Hope this helps, be safe and take care!
Hi, thank you very much for this next project. Wonderful and well explain. Best regards.
Maurice, thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed the project.
Be safe and take care!
Sorry for commenting this late.
I started to watch yesterday, and now I'm ready.
I'm a little unwell right now, everything takes me longer.
But soon I'll be well again.
Achim, sorry to hear you're under the weather at the moment.
Hope you recover soon.
Take care my friend!
Now that's clever!!!
An innovation that actually works
LOL, yes it does!
I'm pretty happy with this tool. Now I need to get busy and start building more guitars.
I'm guessing you probably have some new builds underway too.
Good luck with your projects, be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject Definitely, new builds are underway. You need to. The world to get their hands on your amazing craft. Here it's unfortunate that guitar prices are too low and little demotivating. The imported ones from China are sold for abnormally low prices.
@@theNextProject Be safe and take care too
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!!!
Thank you for joining me for this project.
Should be a good tool to use on future projects.
Be safe and take care!
This thing is very impressive. I can imagine one made of steel in a mass production application.
Ernest, thanks for watching!
Add a computer and code, and you have a CNC factory!
Take care
Thank you for upload and thank you for your plans 🙏, I’m about to build one of these as a test to see if I can carve a guitar neck without being so dependent upon cnc machine.
Dean, thanks for watching!
The PDF is more "idea" than "plan". You will need to verify all dimensions, and dimensions of your lumber... typical stuff. Improve the "idea" wherever you can, make it better!
If you have a CNC, you could probably cut a lot of the parts for this build more accurately than I did.
Also, once you dial-in your end cams... endless possibilities.
Good luck with your project, be safe, have fun, take care!
@@theNextProjectthank you 🙏, I made a start by 3D printing the carriage ends and adding threaded inserts to the back of them to make puck changes nice and easy. I’ve used your idea as a reference as being in the UK a lot of my lumber and hardware is metric. I’ll have to report back once I’m running the jig 😅
do you have plans to design one for neck through body blanks? That would be amazing.
Joseph, thanks for wacthing!
That suggestion has come up a few times, and I've given it a little thought, but no plans designed yet.
I have a potential neck-through bass build, so that may be a good excuse to develop such a fixture.
However, that won't be until mid-'25.
Stay tuned, it might happen.
Be safe and take care!
Nice work Thanks for sharing!!!!
Thomas, thanks for watching!
Hope all is well, be safe and take care!
Pure genius!
Pete, thanks for watching!
This is going to be a pretty fun toy for sure.
Be safe and take care!
That's an arduous video to edit. I feel your pain. I need to fine tune my version of this, and your timing is prefect. Very much appreciated boss. Lots of improvements on mine.
Milehouse, thanks for watching!
True, editing video is as involved as the actual project, maybe more. Had a hard time getting it down to what we have here.
Good luck with your projects, take care!
Amazing stuff for sure
Man, you've been busy!
Thanks for watching!
might be usable to make compound radius fretboards too , you need to hang it upside down over a belt grinder though
been looking intoo a jig for that and was thinking on just cutting a regtangle piece of plywood ar a slant 9.5 inches on one end and 15 inches on the other over the total length of the fretboard , cut a split down the slanted piece on both ends and fitt doorhinges in that that
hang it from a contruction hanging over a moveable belt sander (could be as simple as hanging it from the edge of the workbench with the beltsander sitting on the floor ) and hang the neck in some way (neck pocket with a scew and a bolt through one of the tunerholes i guess ) with the fingerboard down of the hinged piece
the underside holding the neck must be perfectly level over the sander
and basicly sway it back and forth over the beltsander untill it doesnt sand any more off then move to the next bit untill you done the whole fretboard
could move the beltsander up and down to cut more of the fingerboard by stacking sheets of thin plywood or melamine under it
you can still use the later router though you need to raise the sides of youre jig or the sides of youre sled and use a longer bit to clear everything
watahyahknow, thanks for watching!
I've thought about this fixture for fingerboard radius, but this thing is really set up for tighter radius'.
I made a fingerboard radius jig some time ago, but it's not for compound radius, just a single continuous radius.
Here's a link to that project.
ua-cam.com/video/ECCnOaCShnc/v-deo.html
I've thought about a belt sander too, but I don't have one with a large enough bed to catch the full length of a fingerboard, especially not a bass scale board.
Probably a lot of ways to accomplish this. More thinking and project for the future.
Be safe and take care!
1) Most important part of this vid by far is the safety warning about loose bits. I too own this exact palm router, and I came within 10 milliseconds once of a bit flying out of it. I too noticed that something squirrely was going on with my cut, and I stopped the router just before bullet time. That'll stop your heart momentarily. That was all the wakeup call I needed to be sure that the bit is properly tightened down. NOT the fault of the router (which is a fine one), but my negligence.
2) I too have endured my share of being annoyed by the cord of routers getting in the way. I guess (like most of my other tools) I'll eventually convert most of them to battery powered.
3) I would never make an electric guitar neck from scratch. I buy the completely finished ones (frets and all) sourced from China. The electric necks they're cranking out nowadays are superb and inexpensive. Just as good (better imo) than anything Fender or Gibson have ever produced. I buy the flamed maple ones with flamed maple fingerboards. Gorgeous! The barrel is very comfortable in the hand, whether the 42mm (Fender) or the 43mm (Gibson) versions. Plus, the clear finish is spot-on perfect.
The flamed maple look really dresses up a build and makes it snazzy and something to be proud of. I pair those necks with Fender-issue gold tuners with white pearl buttons for Strat/Tele builds. Why go the blah/typical look when you can go whole hog and make that thing look very classy for relatively cheap bucks? You can have those (overpriced) axes that look that they've been dragged over an asphalt parking lot to "age" them. Ugh! (Tip: the only thing that's going to make you play like SRV is a lot of practice - the guitar itself isn't going to do that.)
4) Acoustic necks are a completely different matter. I would never buy one of those pre-made. The headscratcher is how to make a one-piece neck with one of these "barbeque spits" as I like call them, without CNC. But would be great if making a two-piece neck (barrel with glued-on heel), and staining the whole thing a dark cherry color, for example, to hide the spice, which drives me crazy if left exposed. I've done the heel-splice thing on a stained Gibson acoustic (restored neck) and it worked out great - splice is invisible. But a Martin copy is where you run into trouble, and that's where you need a one-piece neck.
5) GREAT explanation and video of this gizmo - one of the best I've seen. Very well narrated - didn't mumble his way through the whole thing.
Netter, thanks for watching!
Nice comment, thanks for the info.
Yep, I've seen some of those Asian guitar necks, glad you're liking them and they are working well for you. I've only had a couple, nothing fancy and I'm guessing the quality is probably better now than when I had purchased.
Acoustic necks are a special thing aren't they. That long heel block, hmm.
Glad you liked the project video.
Be safe and take care!
Great job! There’s another million dollar idea I didn’t think of. Oh well.
LOL, I didn't think of it either.
My Dad used to say "those old guys stole all my good ideas".
Thanks for watching Patrick, be safe and take care!
Hey, I just finished building one of those fret radius jigs. Worked just as expected. Next step build my first neck. Thanks!
Jeff, thanks for watching!
The fretboard radius jig is a great tool, saves a lot of elbow and shoulder wear, glad it worked for you.
It sounds like you're already addicted to all this.
Good luck with your projects, keep me posted.
Be safe and take care!
@@theNextProjectI am. I started building my first guitar amp about a year ago and have build several pedals. I figure the next step should be a guitar.
That sounds great and you've got the electronics part under your belt... that's one of my weaknesses. I keep trying, but I forget as quickly as I learn.
Just one paper template?! Now that's a real dissapointment 😁... Turned out pretty nice there though. Keep up the good work, and stay safe! Greetings, PTR
PTR, thanks for watching!
LOL, I did have a couple pieces of paper but one was crumpled up on the floor part of the time.
The plan pdf has 5 pages of ideas, and another pdf with some build notes. That should keep you busy for a bit.
Take carel
Great tools make life a lot easier. 🙇♂️
Marty, thanks for watchin!
That's so true.
Be safe and take care!
Could this be done using a large radius roundover bit (say, 1"), with one pass along the right side of the neck, and another pass along the left side, and with each pass slightly tapering the cut towards the nut? You wouldn't need a movable fixture. The neck would be fixed down, with the router moved along it to cut each half of the profile.
1man, thanks for watching!
Yes and no, kinda, maybe.
An offset stand for the router could be built, the neck mounted as you mentioned, with the appropriate "angle" to account for the difference in depth of cut from nut to heel... So, yep it can be done. It will be a handheld, portable pinless router - of sorts.
I've used 3/4, 7/8, and 1" roundover bits. Settled on the 7/8" roundover, but used a two different processes to get there. The issue with a fixed radius roundover is that is what you get, which is okay, it will remove a lot of wood quickly. Rasp, file and sanding will follow.
The 7/8" bit can be mounted in a table router, and the neck blank prepped for taper nut to heel so the bearing has a good surface to follow. An offset space added at the heel end to help get the slightly deeper cut at the nut end... works reasonably well for a fender strat/tele style neck. Still have final rasp/file and sanding work to tie in the headstock and heel. But will cut away alot of the arm work quickly.
Downside is the exposed bit right up where it can remove important appendages.
Another similar but inverted process can be made by creating a pin-router/overhead router of sorts. I've used this method a couple times as well. The overhead router method allow for angle headtock and thicker heel type necks, like gibson LP, 335...
Here's a link to that rig:
ua-cam.com/video/ICoYN7QxaBE/v-deo.htmlsi=RKQ51CM4ax4fDmR5&t=336
So, a lot of different ways to accomplish, or nearly accomplish the task. Each have their pros and cons. Each has their place too. All good.
Good luck with your projects, be safe and take care!
Nice work!
Jeff, thanks for watching!
Be safe and take care!
Made a routing jig also and turned the concept kind of upside down. The cradle is static. No rubber bands no slit in the end plates. The sledge is resting on a frame inside of the box which is resting on the cams and gravity will assure pressure against the cam and the bearing. Swappable 3D printed cams for different neck profiles. Nice content on your channel 👍
Hannu, thanks for watching!
I have a pretty good idea what you're talking about.
I made fingerboard radius fixture a while back, which may be similar to what you mention, only on a smaller scale.
Really cool how there are so many ways to accomplish a goal.
I've been thinking of 3D printing parts for some time, just haven't gotten around to figuring out what 3D printer is best for my random projects, budget, space and time.
Any printer suggestions, or warnings? I primarily run a Mac platform, but also have an old PC that may be used for such things.
Budget is minimal, space somewhat limited.
Thanks, and take care!
@@theNextProject Hello, what I have is a basic Ender 3 which I bought some years ago. It was cheap (something like 200€), If you do not want extreme speed or large build volume it gets the job done. What I have done lately is ordering 3d printed parts from JLCPCB. They are reasonable priced, and you can skip the hassle with printing. Keep the good stuff coming. Cheers.
I didn't think of outsourcing 3D parts.
Thanks for the other info regarding what you are using.
I've been trying to figure out if, and how often, my work process benefit from 3D parts.
I'd probably invent reasons to make parts, LOL.
That's what I do, I create work for myself.
Glad you like the videos, be safe and take care!
Just a thought, you could 3D print the cams - that means you could easily make a whole heap for different profiles and supre accurate.
States, thanks for watching!
Yes, 3D printed would be great.... but I don't have a 3D printer, not really a budget for that.
But.... the thought has been crossing my mind more frequently however.
Any suggestions?
Be safe and take care!
Yes, watch out for dropping a bit, clean the shank or shaft of the bits! ( I've seen production shaper bits come apart,..adjustable wing types...always double check your cutters
Glen, thanks for watching!
Completely agree with you.
Care and handling of bits doesn't get talked about enough. I've seen so many people just throw bits in a drawer with other bits. Bad, bad, bad...
I don't have any shaper bits, no room for big boy tools, lol. (no money either).
The need to clean the shank is why I mentioned such in this video, felt it was worth mentioning. There was definitely something keeping this bit from getting gripped properly. Probably a combination of the shank and the collet. All better now.
Hope all is well for ya, be safe and take care!
Use a ball end bit and a narrower one. That will give higher resolution to the carve
Stephen, thanks for watching!
I've considered a ball bit, have a 3/4" bowl, which is basically a ball end. I ended up using a 1" bowl/tray bit on the LP neck at the end of the video. It did a great job, as it has a flat bottom and rounded edges, didn't leave the faceting like the spiral and straight edge bits I used during testing.
I may tray the finer ball end on some on the next tests, thanks!
Be safe and take care!
Great project! Concerned about your airways! All wood dust is a hazard.
Mark, thanks for watching!
Agree, wood dust, MDF dust, metal grindings... all bad stuff.
I do use some dust collection...not always. I'm a bad example.
Hope all is well, be safe and take care!
Genius!
Hey Laura, thanks for watching!
I wonder who the original genius' were that came up with this idea.
Definitely wasn't me, I would have waaaay over thought the idea...wait a minute, I still did over think this. Ugh!
Be safe and take care!
Très ingénieux bravos !!!!
Merci beaucoup!
Bull nose bits work well for profile shaping and dont grab like a straight bit will
NewTech, thanks for watching!
I had originally thought about a ball nose bit, and have a 3/4" on hand, but chose to try the straight flute and spiral bits initially. The final finish from the straight bits didn't really impress me, but they did work, mostly.
The concern I had with the ball nose was the number of passes need to get a smooth routing. I know that style bit would be ideal for CNC, with 1/32" or 1/16" spaced passes (high resolution cutting), but I wanted to move quicker, I'm impatient.
In the end, I used a 1" bowl/tray bit, which seemed to be the best of both worlds. It has rounded edges like the ball nose bit, and a flat bottom area that did a great job of smoothing away the fluted linear pass lines.
Not sure if you saw the final real neck routing, but this is where I was testing the bowl bit.
ua-cam.com/video/hvtz_ozzwnc/v-deo.htmlsi=hbRSMfH1DtYut-Z2&t=1549
Hope all is well for you, be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject yes I missed the end was on work lunch break 🤣. Love the jig! Thanks man, you be safe too 🙏🏻
Great video! So well detailed throughout the process. If I ever decide to make a jig I’ll definitely be coming back to this video as a reference guide! What type of pine are you using? Just like a 2x4 piece of lumber?
Jake, thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed the project.
The pine is simple 1x6 or 1x8, so roughly 3/4" thick. Template cut to resemble whatever neck I was trying to mimic. I added a 1/4" thick MDF fingerboard to get the overall neck-blank thickness before routing. I think I made 4 tele test necks for about $10, and 3 more bass necks for another 10. Way cheaper to practice and screw up than a good maple neck. I was actually being smart during this project. Typically I just jump in and hope for the best...rarely works for me.
Hope all is well, take care!
@@theNextProject That's a great idea. I gotta try that when I start trying to start making my own necks!
Brilliant video, and thank you so much for taking the time to make and upload your videos.. Keep up the great work.. Its really appreciated. My question is... Would it be possible to make a similar jig for doing the radius of the fretboard..and could it be also adjustable to carve different neck radius sizes?
Thanks again,
Ray from Ireland.
Ray, thanks for watching and the kind words!
Yes, a similar yet different jig can be made for radiusing the fretboard.
I've made a video of such a tool, here's the link:
ua-cam.com/video/ECCnOaCShnc/v-deo.html
Here is a PDF link showing drawings of different radius':
www.dropbox.com/s/focvdbrrbxl79of/FingerboardRadiusFixture.pdf?dl=0
There are a number of people making similar fixtures, some for sale...
Hope this helps!
Awww, but you didn't give us the usual tone demonstration at the end! I need to know if it's a "BZZZZRRTRTRT", or more of a vintage "MMRRRROOWWRRBRBRB".
Nice diagram graphics! And yeeeesh, thinking about that tool-failure ballistic shrapnel, eye and ear protection doesn't seem enough...
LOL, BZZZRRTRTRT. HAhaHa, that is probably is the sound a router makes translated to Closed Captions.
I bet you are pretty close.
I think the diagrams help, I know Iike seeing how and where the parts go.
True, eye and ear protection wouldn't have done much to protect from a flying router bit. I was probably 20 feet or more from where it launched. Everyone was lucky that day.
It was a little different setup, as the bit left a router table, so it went up-ish, then sideways. The project I have here, the bit would drill down into the neck, then...somewhere.
Unknown dangers waiting for us.
Hope all is well, take care my friend!
Nice one! Thanks for sharing the process and being so open about the incremental refinements you found it necessary to make. Do you reckon that this same thingy could be used to cut different radii into fingerboards, providing cams of the correct radius are in place? Just thinking aloud … Cheers!
MuseumsBloke, good to hear from you and thanks for watching!
Great question and I have kinda wondered the same thing.
My initial concern it that the radius this size box is best suited for would be too small for a fingerboard.
I have made a linear radius fixture which works really really well, but if you're after a compound radius it's not the tool.
Otherwise it's easy enough to make, and can be made for pretty much any radius. ua-cam.com/video/ECCnOaCShnc/v-deo.html
I need to put my thinking cap on and work on (look for) a good compound radius fixture.
Be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject… Thanks very much for the link to your earlier radius cutting sled thingy video. I get it now …
All good.
Thank you!
Billy, thanks for watching!
Not sure what I did, but you're welcome.
Good luck with your projects, be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject This was very clear and easy to follow video. I've built a couple of Warmoth guitars and refinished some guitars that were destroyed in a fire. I'm looking to start building and was concerned about building a neck. This helps alot.
Glad to hear this was easy to follow. I often wonder if what I say makes sense to others. Sounds like you're on a good path to complete builds. After you're first neck, it will be child's play for you.
Good luck, be safe and take care!
That’s really super
Thanks for watchin'
This is awesome! New sub!❤
RevoFoto, thanks for watching and joining me. Hope you like the projects.
Be safe and take care!
Will this unit also do a Gibson scale neck?
Stephen, thanks for watching!
Yes it will handle a Gibson style and scale neck. The very end of the video, I did a real neck carve for an Epiphone LP project I'm working on. Handles an angle headstock and tenon easy enough.
Great question, sorry I didn't really comment on that.
Take care!
Well done! I'm contemplating building one of these myself except even longer so I can shape neck-through style necks. I just complete a neck made primarily of purple heart and it was absolute murder to work with. Any thoughts?
Doug, thanks for watching!
I was thinking about a neck-through as I was making this fixture.
Had a couple ideas, but one would likely not work. The other is basically just a longer version of this build. I think the box would need to be a couple inches wider to accommodate for the taper of the neck as it is projected to the end cams. The box is 8" wide + side thickness, maybe a 10" or 12" wide box would be needed. A big sheet of paper or a drafting program could get a better idea.
Purpleheart, WOW, that stuff is very hard. Only used it a couple times, sands really hard, other wood around it sands away while the PH just stays there. Oh, and the need to de-oil it really well before any glue up. Tough stuff.
Let me know your thoughts on a super-size carving fixture. I'm sure other peps will be wondering the same thing.
Be safe and take care!
Where can i find the cams for an standard strat neck? or how can i make them?
Thanks for watching.
There isn't any "standard" cams to be found, as each carving fixture will require its own specific cams.
An overview of how I made my cams from an existing neck is here:
ua-cam.com/video/hvtz_ozzwnc/v-deo.htmlsi=mcb54ZYKLPH6HWiW&t=734
Randy's Guitars and Broncos, has a great video of building a similar carving fixture and making cams from an existing neck.
He is using basically the same process and does a pretty good job of showing the cam making process.
Sorry I can't help more with this.
Good luck with your projects!
That’s more or less the rig that I have. I love it but I do not love that it leaves the 90* edges that still take a lot of time to transition.
Nigel Forrester came up with a similar design, but for a shaper, running on the radiused side of the bit. Goes from blank to ready to sand in one go as the radiused bit does the transitions at the same time. Can’t wait to buy a shaper and make one. Neck carving is always something of a bottleneck…
Halcyon Guitars, thanks for watching!
I may have seen something similar in use by Wayne Charvel in his home shop.
He used a special radius bit in a shaper (or big table router), and knocked out the back of the neck shape in a couple passes.
I borrowed from that a few years back and used a 7/8" roundover bit in a table router to do a couple necks. Wasn't a turn-key process but did cut away a lot of material fast - didn't feel very safe however.
Followed that by making an overhead router (pin router) setup, used that a couple times, again using the 7/8" roundover bit. Worked pretty well for angle headstock necks, still left a lot of finish work to do.
That brings me here....
I shaper would be nice, but I need a bigger workspace and deeper pockets.
So many ideas and options, just gotta go with what works at the time.
Hope all is going well for you, be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject Shapers are scary for sure…
I can't thank you enough for this and the radius jig! I watched Randys vid as well and thought the pencil copying was brilliant. I am sure your experiments will save me a ton of trial and error... which I was not much looking forward to! Your contributions to the community are so helpful and much appreciated.
Spike, thanks for watching!
Hope the project works out for you. Be prepare to spend some time up front getting those radius cams dialed in. The first couple took me some time, then I started to understand the process better and now I'm thinking I can make them pretty fast and have a good idea what a little sanding here or there will accomplish.
Test, test, test.
Good luck with your projects, take are!
@theNextProject Wow thanks for the reply! When using the actual neck for copying to the the radiused cams, did you use some kind of radiused caul beneath the fretboard of the neck to get it to sit flat?
Great question(s),
if copying an existing neck (without frets) you can simply stick it down to the neck platform.
If the existing neck has frets, you'll either need to trace the section shapes on the cams then adjust for the fret height offset, or have a notched neck platform to allow for the frets.
Here's a link to Randy's Guitars and Broncos, he has a platform that is notched so the frets don't impact the neck shape tracing.
ua-cam.com/video/AXjW8cOZ_E0/v-deo.html
He's got some good ideas built in there.
So far, I've only copied one neck with frets in place, and just compensated for the height offset of frets being in the neck. The frets don't impact the width of the cam, only the height and taper/diminish as the shape rounds to the edges of the fingerboard... oh, that sounds confusing.
Let me know if you have other questions, I'll check back here occaionally.
Take care!
@@theNextProject Much appreciated thanks. Experience tells me I'm probably better off to attempt building a caul with the the slots removed - a la Randy. I'd rather create a resonably repeatable solution for copying different profiles as needed. I'm trying to avoid creating another complex jig to create the first jig! Love your simple solutions to complex problems.... thanks again.
obrigado
De nada!
Loved it. Great distraction from all the craziness of the news.
Question??.. have you thought about "drop in" cams .. So changing up for different profiles would be easier?
Robert, thanks for watching!
That sounds like a great idea, now I have a legit reason to buy a 3D printer, Bwahahaha!
Seriously, that would/could simplify some things, hmm.
A 3D printer could come in handy too... oh I need to stop thinking about that.
Take care man!
@@theNextProject I'm using a 3D printer to make pucks for different shapes. the 3D printing works great.
And the beard is back 😀
LOL, glad you noticed and thanks for watching!
Too funny, thanks I needed that today.
Hope all is well, take care!
Hello, how would I change the profiles of neck, Profile C, Profile D????
Sergio, thanks for watching!
Depending on the neck, going from a C to a D may not be possible, or it may be...depending on the neck.
Some say the D is in between a U and a C, others say that U and C are roughly the same, with the U being a bit chunkier at the sides.
The D is either fuller than the C, or is similar to a C but with a slightly thinner and flattened center are along its spine...
Ugh! Consistently inconsistent information, clearly vague.
Depending on the neck, you may be able to sand the neck to a slimmer profile along the spine/back, feathering the shape into the sides, possibly getting a more "D" section shape.
This may depend on the starting dimensions of the neck and also the type of trussrod that is in the neck.
Some neck profiles are quite close to the truss rod around the 1st fret.
So reshaping the back of the neck could be risky depending the starting neck shape and truss rod.
You may have seen videos or photos of someone who wanted to slim their baseball bat neck, only to find a trussrod. It happens.
Sorry, no "one size fits all" answer for you.
It might be worthwhile getting some neck profile templates, both C and D, to check what you are starting with and to compare the differences.
This won't tell you how much wood can be removed before finding the trussrod, but if you know the style of trussrod in the neck, you can get an idea.
Good luck with your project.
Be safe and take care!
But if you’re building new necks from scratch, different radius cams would produce different profiles. So the jig can do D or C or whatever, right?
Sven, yes if you are building new necks they you could reference and use cams made to C or D shape specs.
I may do a follow up video in the future, showing this process. Just need to find a little time for that.
Great question and thanks for asking.
Take care!
@@theNextProject Sorry, but I think I asked my question wrong. My English is very basic. I don't want to modify the profile of an already made neck, I want to make a new neck, just like you do, a whole new guitar/bass. But if a client asks me for a D profile or a C profile, where can I download the file to copy it? I hope that now you understand my question. I'm from Argentina.Thanks for answering me so quickly
Sergio, sorry I misunderstood.
Here's an article about neck shapes:
www.electricherald.com/guitar-neck-profile-guide/
Here's a link to a PDF which you may be able to convert to other formats for your use.
www.electricherald.com/downloads/Fender-Neck-Profiles.pdf
There are other templates to be found, you'll need to google for something closer to what you need.
Good luck!
I was looking at these. I like a neck amd want to shape another the same way. Yes please, make me one too. Copy necks!
Ranman, hey there, thanks for watching!
Yep, this contraption would be a pretty good way to copy an existing neck that you like. I'm having fun with it so far.
Hope all is well, take care man!
@@theNextProject , ah 😎 man. I love what you're doing. Since I nearly melted my mouth yesterday by pouring hot tea kettle water in my mouth to rinse my even dirtier hands of sanding dost that was probably toxic. 😆 I got lucky with the ice as I ran down the hill to extinguish the fire in my mouth and on my lips. (No basin up here) yet! Uh yeah, I'm ok, chapped lips amd a raw mouth.
Oh man, mouth burns! Can't get away from that feeling quick enough.
Recovery is on the horizon. Take care my friend!
Bonjour ,je suis français et je ne comprends très mal votre langue. Je n’ai donc pas pu bien comprendre exactement si vous êtes professionnel dans la lutherie ou la menuiserie, ou simplement un passionné. La maîtrise apparente de vos outils ne me permet pas de bien juger. Cependant la sympathie que m’inspire votre démonstration ,votre assurance ,et votre gentillesse, me pousse à vous mettre en garde en ce qui concerne votre scie circulaire sur table qui m’a l’air d’être une tueuse de doigts.si vous êtes musiciens vous êtes sûrement attentif à cela. S’il vous plaît renseignez vous sur une pratique plus sûr pour vos mains . Cela m’attristerait vraiment qu’il vous arrive un accident.pardon de cette ingerance mais c’est plus fort que moi
Merci d'avoir cherché et de vous soucier de ma sécurité.
J'apprécie grandement votre message et votre inquiétude.
Je ne suis ni musicien ni menuisier. Un amateur qui espère partager mes intérêts avec d'autres, comme vous.
Comme vous l’avez mentionné, la scie à table est un outil qui provoque de nombreux accidents douloureux. Même si mes doigts peuvent paraître très proches de la lame, sachez que je garde mes mains le plus loin possible. Je comprends le danger et respecte les dommages et la douleur que cette machine peut causer. Merci encore pour votre sollicitude !
J'espère que vous trouverez les projets intéressants et, j'espère, qu'ils vous fourniront des idées ou de l'inspiration pour vos propres projets.
Soyez prudent et prenez soin de vous !
=====
Thank you for looking and for being concerned for my safety.
I greatly appreciate your message and your concern.
I am neither a musician nor a carpenter. A hobbyist who hopes to share my interests with others, like you.
As you mentioned, the table saw is a tool that causes many painful accidents. Even though my fingers may seem very close to the blade, know that I keep my hands as far away as possible. I understand the danger and respect the damage and pain this machine can cause. Thank you again for your concern!
I hope you find the projects interesting and, I hope, that they provide you with ideas or inspiration for your own projects.
Be safe and take care of yourself!
Going to be hard to screw down to granite 😂
Thanks for watching Mike!
I don't think Laura would appreciate me clamping things to her countertop anyway, so I better stay in the garage.
Hope all is well for ya, take care my friend!
Roughen your router shaft with fine sandpaper.
halfabee, thanks for watching!
I cleaned the router shaft with a green scotchbite, so basically a fine paper.
Need to be careful with repeated cleanings of such kind as to not change the dimension of the shaft.
Doesn't sound like a thing, but those are tight tolerance items.
Cleaning out the collet is a good habit too. Always some sawdust in there.
Hope all is well, be safe and take care!
@@theNextProject
Hi, I stumbled onto your channel. Yes, I use to make round columns with flutes in them and used ( made) something similar to what you have there. Not sure if you know or not???? But when one puts a router bit into the collet, dont put the bit in all the way. The reason being, the bit will loosen itself and come out, when the router is running. ALWAYS, put the bit in all the way and bring it out about a little more than a 1/16 ". Maybe 3/32". If you look at all the router bits, where the shaped part is and where it meets up to the actual shank, that area is a little bigger plus its concave. If the collet clamps onto that area, just with the router turning on, with the torque is enough to start the bit getting loose. Always pull the router bit out before you tighten the collet!
G M, thanks for watching!
Yep, I know what you're mentioning and completely agree with you.
Don't bottom the bits in the collet. Some bits have a marking for minimum insertion too, which I like. I've seen too many videos with bits not inserted deep enough, a disaster waiting to happen.
There are a lot of these things we (I) take for granted, having used these tools for years or learned from others. A lot of people have taken up these hobbies (covid shutdown) and have no background in using such tools.
Suggestions like you made are in the manuals, but not many people read the manual, lol.
As I mentioned, I was in a shop where a bit got loose. It was in a table router set-up, the bit went UP, then sideways... Everyone was looking around. I initially had no idea where the noises came from. Found out a few minutes later, where a small group had gathered. I don't know if it was a dirty bit, loose collect, improperly seated...all of the above maybe.
We were all lucky that day.
Be safe and take care!
do jigs from Freddy Gabrsek's box
Freddy's Frets, builds some great guitars. Have enjoyed his video for a long time. I like when he gets his dad involved. Good seeing generations together.
Thanks for watching, be safe and take care!
@@theNextProjectThe box that Freddy uses is in video number 10. I love his work with those 3 Les Pauls!! Please, if you can, make a template for that box... that is a great help to make the holes in the body of the neck socket, the ears/legs at the correct angle/degree and the pickup holes. Sorry if the English is not correct. (I'm using google translator).
I'll look at episode 10. Thanks for pointing it out. I've probably see it, but don't remember it. If I can help I will. Take care!
Very strange table saw. There's no riving knife
LOL, nope, no riving knife, no blade guard, no frills.
It did come with a terrible riving knife and anti-kickback attachment, but they were so poorly designed they made the saw more dangerous to use - at least to me.
The factory fence was also a piece of garbage, just garbage.
I purchased this saw new 24+ years ago, and expected to burn it up during a remodeling job... it's still running.
Tough saw.
Hope all is well, be safe and take care!