Відео

@@najmurrahmaan8011 Thanks for dropping by. I suggest getting in touch with Hioki Singapore. They may be able to help you in this regard. www.hioki.com/sg-en/products/clamp-meters/ac-dc-clamp/id_6707

I appreciate your comments. Glad the video helped Thank you for your support, Sir! Stay safe.

@@georgedavall9449 Link to the soft case a.co/d/0ci2biZ6 For my F115 I just buy the generic semi- hard case from local online sellers which typically sell for the equivalent of U$8.

@@ramschannelreviews Great, got it! I have a Klein PVA foam type case that is available locally, but it is expensive, so I will check out those cases. Where would You rec’d getting a test board from? THANKS in Advance !!!!!! 🤝

Thanks for your comments.

10 panels total. divided into 2 PV strings. Each panel at 550W.

@@ramschannelreviews how many kwh per day?

@@saltnpepper6675 Too early to give a representative figure but just for reference, it produced 22kWHr per day on average the last 10 days, on sunny and rainy weather.

Thanks for your comments. I've only just begun to learn about solar but I think your numbers are noteworthy.

@@ramschannelreviews I have a few more tests to do too improve those #'s then I can share the details

Your welcome. Glad it helped. Thanks for your support!

Thanks for your appreciation. You are correct about the Stanley kit. I have other precision screwdrivers but this set always gets the right fit on the work piece. They're quite indispensable around the house. The Japanese pliers are great, too. They're high quality and sold at a competitive price. I just combine it with others to get free shipping from amazon.

@@ramschannelreviews You’re a smart man! (Amazon remark ) I just looked at this video again, and saw the Milwaukee Fastback knife! Somehow I didnt ‘see it’ before? Idiot here! 😯 😂 I really like the Fastback knives, especially the newer model with the release that doesn’t get caught on stuff whilst cutting! take care! 👍🤝

@@georgedavall9449 Sharp eye!

Thanks for your support! I appreciate it.

Thank you!

@@ramschannelreviews You're Welcome!

I appreciate your support, thank you!

@@ramschannelreviews You're Welcome! 😊

@@georgedavall9449 Good day! I thought you'd be interested in a case for a Fluke 107. I found this from amazon (not advertising them), for information purpose only. ua-cam.com/video/jdJ9qaR_tL4/v-deo.htmlsi=xLGnrh_PYllkelZI

@@ramschannelreviews Thank You Sir! 🤝

@@georgedavall9449 You're welcome!

Thank you for your appreciation! That packaging was indeed abysmal. Unfortunately when there was no option at amazon check out to "deliver in amazon box" you're packaging is left at the discretion of the shipper. The body of my F107 has a bit of creak, too, when pressed. But it does not affect anything. I didn't like it, as well. But I believe it's an expected occurrence from manufacturing this budget range of the Fluke DMMs. Looking at amazon prices at this time, I see several good deals for it. There's one with a case for just U$103. I appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts. Good luck and safe testing!

@@ramschannelreviews Thank You for the great reply! Thanks for your views on your unit, and I am surprised yours has the same ‘creaking’ when pressed, but I concur with You regarding the manufacture of this to a price point. After watching your video, and taking mine apart, I believe the noise comes from the way the two halves go together where it has a slight curve. It fits the hand rather nicely, but it probably contributes to the two halves not fitting as precise as they could be? It is after all, plastic, and the only way around it would be addition of a couple of extra screws, and then added cost? I see a couple of YT videos on ‘water damaged’ 107 meters, so maybe the two halves could fit together better? Safe testing to You as well.

@@georgedavall9449 Yes, the shape fits the hand well. Be careful, though, not to over tighten the screw. The first time I removed them they were a bit too tight. The metallic screws were embedded only on plastic which can get worn out if tightened too much. In any case you only need to deal with those screws if you need to replace the fuse. The battery cover, meanwhile, only needs a small coin or flat head screw driver to open, which is a good design, but not water resistant.

@@ramschannelreviews Appreciate the replies, and the sound advice! Good point on those screws, and I found the same thing to be true. The battery compartment access is clever, but I have my reservations on it? I tried a little ‘experiment,’ and I wanted to share it with You. I had the case apart, and applied a small strip of scotch tape to both sides, on the back half, near the middle where it ‘creaks,’ and put it back together, and lo and behold, no more creaking! Try it! I observed the meter as reading a bit ‘low’ when compared to other meters? I know there is a given tolerance in the accuracy, but it was lower in values when checking batteries, checking the outlets (mains as y’all say ) etc. I need to find some fuses, diodes, and check it out further. I would be curious to know if the scotch tape thing worked for you? Cheers!

@@georgedavall9449 No I didn't try the Scotch tape hack. I'm alright with a little creaking, hehe. But since it worked out well for you, it's all good. If you think your F107 reads low, one thing you can do to check, is to have another AC averaging meter and compare their AC voltage readings. As you know it may not read the same as a true RMS meter, like a Fluke 117, for example. For DC, so long as its readings are within spec, it's not a defect. Just now I made a quick comparison using a lithium battery: Hioki DT4256 reads 3.813V, Fluke 107 reads 3.805V. Car battery: DT4256= 12.29V, Fluke 107=12.26V. For my use cases, perfectly acceptable results.

I appreciate your comments. Thank you!

Copy po! Thanks for the tip.

Just buy a stainless steel bolts and nuts

​@@anthonygerong2570 Good idea. Thanks for the suggestion!

Thanks you!

Yes sir!

Tnx sa reply sir

@@junarditochannel Salamat din po sa suporta. Basta makuha ninyo legit at walang damage na Bosca unit, tatagal po talaga sir. Subok ko na.

Roughly the equivalent of U$140.

I don't know who coined the term "line-splitter" for this device but that designation does not mean "split-phase" in the sense of 3-wire single phase system. It simply provides a physical separation between the two single-phase voltage supply lines. This allows for the convenient clamping of a clamp meter on just one line of that supply through one of the legs of the line splitter. As you know, with a clamp-on current sensor, you can only measure current on one line, not two. In this manner you can connect any single phase power cord for small appliances at the output of the line splitter without physically altering the cords themselves, and then measure their current by clamping on a leg of the line splitter.

If you mean feeder or branch circuits, the basic principles are the same. The circuits should be completely de-energized and all loads disconnected before testing their insulation resistance. But there's a lot more than this. So if you wish to know more I suggest further reading, or better yet training for safety and proper implementation.

It is indeed a waste of tape. Unfortunately, there's no way to stop it from ejecting that bit of tape at the beginning of every print. What I did to minimize it was to print several labels in one go, using the space bar and bluearrow + enter key to separate the individual words/phrase.

The 6 Amp reading was the RMS value of current, which is a way of saying that it's the effective value of current that is taken from a full cycle AC waveform. The 10 Ampere value is that singular value at the peak of the AC waveform.

Thanks for your comments. I don't know if you've come across them but the design of the UT15BMax and UT17BMax resembled a lot like the design of the Fluke DMMs bearing the same model name. The UT15BMAX wasn't cheap (I think the UT60S is cheaper) but it was worth it. The UT17B Max should be even better for not much more money. I prefer a separate NCV stick over the one embedded in a DMM. Safe testing sir!

@@ramschannelreviews Oh I forgot to ask this. Since you have the UT191T PRO too, which is better in terms of performance, robustness and input protection? I just checked the price of the UT191T PRO and it's cheaper than the UT15B Max as of today.

@@therealdaniboi The UT191T Pro is a good DMM. In fact it is the one sitting in my work shelf ready to use anytime. Rugged and its battery and fuses are easily accessible. However, I think the new, safety features that UNI-T embedded into the design of the UT15B Max justified its higher price. Those two, high speed input fuse protection aren't cheap, wrong input connection warning, two sets of test leads, rugged build as well, uses the more common AA battery instead of the 9V used in the 191T Pro, with adjustable backlight. The only thing I didn't like about the 15B Max, is that if you need to change the fuse, it's more a hassle than the UT191T Pro. But if you don't need those, the 191T Pro should be a good, lower cost alternative.

@@ramschannelreviews Thank you again. I'll update this comment of mine once I made my decision on what I'll end up buying. EDIT: I made the decision about 5 days ago and I went with the UT17B Max which arrived today. Honestly I was surprised on how solidly built this multimeter is. And it measures faster than my old Sanwa CD771. I am super satisfied with this meter and I will be placing this on my work table.

Thanks for your appreciation and support!

I think you got the top of the line, 18B Max in this series. Thanks for your comments!

Sorry I'm not familiar with automotive electrical testing. I would not recommend this resistor box for such diagnostic use. A quick online search, though, came up with a precision variable resistor specifically for that purpose. Thanks for your comments.

Walang brand sir. Ang nakalagay, "Solar Charge Controller" lang. Generic, sa Lazada ko nabili.

Glad the video was useful to you. Have a great day, people of Peru!

Thanks for your appreciation!

Sorry I didn't get what you mean. The cable flag, the bar code?

The KEW2046R has capacitance, min-max, Hz/duty cycle, °F/°C, which aren't found in the 3288-20 but might be important to a technician. On the DC side they're just about the same. So, if I were mainly using them for DC inspections, I'd pick the 3288-20 mainly because it's so compact and reliable. Its lithium battery isn't known to leak, which is a big deal for me as well.

@@ramschannelreviews I saw this max function that might be useful, which I actually could use today as a solar panel breaker flips and I don't know why so I could use max for that

@@ernstpeterlegrand I think that's one way to troubleshoot using the max feature. Good luck!

The yellow work gloves I ordered from Lazada, while the leather gloves that protect the rubber gloves I bought from amazon.

I appreciate the info. Thanks for dropping by!

Good to know sir! I noticed that for residential wiring devices, the terminal screws on switches and outlets are still too small for these combo tip drivers so you're going to need your usual Philips and flat tips. Thanks for dropping by!

I have two of these versatile pliers myself. Thanks for dropping by!

salamat sa suporta sir. inoder ko ito sa amazon. pero search mo din sa lazada baka sakali available.

@@ramschannelreviews meron dn sa shoppe kaso nga lng wlang cash delevery nd kaya ako mascam? cash muna kc direct fr japan

@@ArianaAckyl meron nga Engineer pliers sa Shopee, doon sa want jp. Sa Lazada meron ding want jp. Nasa inyo na po kung willing kayong bayad muna. Sa amazon bayad din muna sir bago sila mag ship pero yun nga lang mas safe at secured ang amazon. Naka order ako ng Hioki test leads sa shopee na bayad muna at nakarating naman. Suggestion ko sa inyo sir kung willing pa din kayong bumili na bayad muna, isang pliers lang muna orderin po ninyo. Meron namang complaint process ang Shopee kung sakali hindi ninyo matanggap ang inyong order.

Ah ok cgurado kna nd masasayang ang pira q? 1500plus ata un

@@ramschannelreviews tama isa lng ang kailangan q local electrician aq eh dream q talaga ang engineer pller na yan

I appreciate your comments. Safe testing!

Thanks. You're correct. I always shoot raw now on my D40 since its only 6MP and it would take about 2,100 images to fill up a 16GB SD card. I set manual iso and aperture and shutter no faster than 1/250 on the camera to match the SB-22, which has its own auto-exposures and does not communicate with the D40 other than when to fire the flash. My SB-22 is still a capable flash, and most of the time (just shooting for fun) the flash exposure was pretty spot on, except on bounce where I sometimes needed to adjust the aperture to compensate. TTL setting setting on the SB-22 will not work with the D40- it will fire at full power.

I appreciate your keen observation. I noticed this, too and I though it was peculiar, until I discovered this is a Pro feature built into the DT4261. Unless Hioki made a major version update, I don't think there's any difference among the official DT4261 units released. Mine has version 1.01 firmware. What you observed has something to do with a power up option called "User Setting Retention" page 103 of the user's manual, which you can activate ON and OFF by pressing Fn while turning ON the device. It remembers the last function you used in those nested positions, like what you described. So if the last function I used was Diode, the next time I turn ON the device, it will start where I left off: at Diode. It works also on V~Hz, AutoV/AC/DC/AC-DC, A~/Hz, and AutoA/AC/DC/AC-DC. This is quite useful for professionals who want their DMM to default to a certain function whenever they turn ON their DMM. For example, some people may want voltage to default to DC at all times. Simply use DC volts last and next time you turn on the DT4261, it defaults to DC-voltage. To turn this OFF user setting retention, simply repeat the FN-Power up option. It will then default to the white function in those nested positions. Thanks for your support!

@@ramschannelreviews you are right found it in the manual and tried it and it works, i never knew it could do that.

@@stiaankruger2699 Glad that helped. Safe testing!

Same as my reply below sir, I have not encountered a need to use this function in my previous work. According to the user's manual this is used to measure Capacitance on cables with ghost voltage. I shared this video to answer a question from a viewer on how to enable LoZ on Fluke 115. But just as you mentioned, this not the same as the Auto-Volt LoZ on the Fluke 116 & 117.

This is how it works: the AC accessory clamp, CS06A, was designed to measure AC current by clamping on a conductor, but its output is not in Ampere unit, but millivolt AC. Specifically, 1mV per 1Ampere of current. So if it's clamping on a conductor carrying 50A, for example, it will output 50mV on its terminal end. The DMM, set to mV AC function simply displays mV, AC when the clamp's cable is connected to it. The DMM does not know that an accessory clamp is connected to it. So it's up to the user to mentally convert this 23 mV, as 23 Ampere due to the clamp's output ratio of 1mV/1A. On the other hand since the Hioki DT4261 has a specific function for an external AC clamp accessory, I simply took advantage of that by setting it to the correct ratio and read the values directly as an Ampere unit. Hope this helps.

No, it cannot. It doesn't have min-max either. You would need something like a Hioki CM4376/4375-50 for that, which cost about 3x more.

I didn't know this, thanks for the tip! The Gennect Cross home screen is cleaner now. Great idea!

Glad to be of assistance. Hioki puts alot of tought into how a meter will be used, Flukes are also nice but i replaced my fluke 28ii with this cm4271 and my 393 fc clamp with the Hioki cm 4372 and my fluke MFT with a Metrel 3155 Eurotester, simply because fluke fell behind the times their meters work well but are very dated. The 11X line and the 87V and 28ii is almost 20years old

@@stiaankruger2699 Those were impressive Fluke meters you had. When I was still with the electric utility Fluke handhelds were the predominant testers, although Hioki already made inroads (insulation testers). When I discovered the innovation of Hioki I bought some of their test equipment for my own use out of my pocket. Worth every bit of my hard earned money. I even have 2 3288-20 when amazon dropped its price LOL. The national grid on the other hand, as far as I know, was already using the Hioki PQ monitoring equipment PQA 3198. Fluke has a more established marketing channel than Hioki for now. But I think Hioki is catching up. Thanks for your insights. I appreciate it!

@@ramschannelreviews i still have, maintain and use all the fluke meters i just dont prefer them, example the 28ii has no visible continuity indication this is a problem when in an industrial noisy environment not only is it noisy, earplugs is mandatory PPE, rendering the function useless, one would think that Fluke who boasts 'industrial' meter would have identified such an issue and evolved the feature into the design but as sed Fluke is slow to evolve, also if you look at the 1664 MFT it looks like a dinosaur with an lcd display against the Metrel 3155.

I agree. They're also easy to handle despite their size. Thanks for dropping by!

I ordered this from a local Philippine online seller for the rough equivalent of U$102. I'm not familiar with the Indian market but you can try an online search for Kyoritsu dealers there. Good luck!

I got this for the equivalent of U$66 from Lazada online seller.

Salamat sa comment sir. Yung 20W po ba ay electric or solar light din? Kung electric, observation ko lang sa aking 60W solar vs. 18W electric LED mas maliwanag ang electric. Hindi ko alam kung paano ang rating method nila sa solar lights. Kung legit at walang damage naman ang 100W Bosca ninyo baka hanggang doon lang po ang liwanag nya unless i-adjust sa maximum brightness.

You made an interesting observation. I appreciate it. This somehow reminded me of an open-delta transformer. As you know, a 3-phase motor will not self-start on single phase power. This one does, even though only single phase voltage is output by the DPS when no motor is connected. It would seem that the DPS designers have some sort of proprietary circuit in the DPS that supplies the missing 3rd phase as soon as it detects the presence of a 3-phase motor winding. How do I know? In a practical sense, when I tested the phase sequence with a Kyoritsu KEW2062BT, I got a proper indication of a 3-phase power supply coming out of the DPS. Here's a link to that: ua-cam.com/users/shorts9j-Jbf1WRZ4?si=5fTlC0W0KsAkt7fE I cannot, however, cite formulas or EE principles in support since only the DPS manufacturer really knows what's going on at the DPS.