Відео

Thanks for your appreciation. The cost of the capacitor was Php50, or less than 1U$. The pliers, multimeter, screw driver, and crimp connectors I think you can estimate from an online supplier. A good multimeter like the one in the video cost at least 6 times that box fan. Without the tools I would have just brought the fan to the repair shop and pay maybe Php150 or less than 3U$. Depleted capacitor replacement is easily done in an electronic shop and more economical than buying a new fan, especially if you have a good quality fan with a quiet but strong motor that you want to keep using (I have one of those). This particular fan wasn't the best quality, however, just average.

@@DondonNakar-w2d I bought this online for about P7500 a few years ago.

@@jazziefirst I appreciate your comments. The IR4056 however isn't designed to test capacitance. You'd need the Hioki DT4261 or DT4256 for that. If you need both capacitance and inductance you may want to look at different models of L/C testers.

@@mccglastron1972 I appreciate your comments. These are perfectly reasonable questions. Ohms Law is a whole other subject, incidentally. What it basically says is that Current(ampere)=Voltage(volts)/Resistance(Ohms). The greater the voltage, the greater the current for the same resistance. It only takes as little as 20 milliampere (0.020 ampere) or less to be fatal to a person. The human body is mostly water, a conductor of electricity with low resistance which means higher deadly current will pass through it. Not to diminish the abilities of any homeowner but it's safer to have a licensed electrician work on your circuits and devices. But it's good that you have a multimeter. You can at least use it to check the continuity of your newly bought outlets and switches before you have them installed. The most dangerous use of a multimeter is testing live voltage and current, if one isn't trained on it. Certified safety rubber gloves have a designed resistance to the amount of 100 MegaOhms and up. If a lineman touches a live uninsulated wire at 230V while wearing certified electrical safety rubber gloves (100MegaOhms) the leakage current through it would be 0.0023 milliampere, still safe. But the rubber material can be compromised in many ways. Even in the electric utilities the lineman's rubber gloves are regularly tested for safety, and it's just one of the safety gear. I wouldn't recommend any other gloves for electrical work except certified electrical rubber gloves and their leather protectors. Leather protectors do not have safe insulation properties. But they provide mechanical protection for the rubber gloves which are vulnerable to scratches and punctures. Wearing both rubber and leather at the same time reduces manual dexterity, however. So some licensed practitioners use only one or the other, depending on their personal safety assessment of the situation. Not saying it's approved, but it's not an uncommon practice in residential house wiring. Stay safe.

@@FarooqF-g2x Thanks for dropping by. Both the blue and yellow water pump pliers have fully serrated parallel teeth on their jaws: fine and coarse. As you have noticed the fine ones simply point 90° but the coarse ones are angled opposite each other. So they provide a very strong grip for any shape material you want to turn. If you mean crosshatch design like those in electrical pliers, or assymetric like the ones in screw extracting pliers, no I haven't got those in my adjustable water pump pliers. The yellow one does provide more torque for the same amount for hand power due to longer handles but the shorter, blue one has the advantage of built-in spring. They're both great for minor pipe works. I have a big monkey wrench if I needed something more. I got lucky when amazon sold them before at an attractive price with free shipping so I didn't hesitate to order both.

@@jimothyfatboy55 It doesn't have that word. It does have brain fog: n. (informal) a usually temporary inability to concentrate and think clearly. Brainrot is defined online though.

@@ramschannelreviews What's the most recent term you've been able to find on the dictionary?

@@jimothyfatboy55 rabbit hole, deepfake, and clickbait. But there are other new terms I didn't even recognize until I read them in the foreword, examples: kombucha, forest bathing, nerf, shadowban, simit.

@@dondon.M Welcome and thanks also for your appreciation.

@@barryorbik215 You didn't miss it. Hioki really didn't include REL in the DT4261. It does have 0 ADJ (under Filter button) but this is only for cancelling out any internal resistance of the meter & test leads before measurement.

No, it's not designed for that. You may be able to get a reading but it won't be accurate due to a number of factors, not least of which is the emissivity of that liquid and reflections. Perhaps a direct contact food grade thermometer would be more suitable for your purpose (beverages).

@@randroymosquiola3075 thanks for your appreciation!

@ramschannelreviews ur welcome sir

@@matthew7419 Thanks for your appreciation!

@@HalimaSadia-e4t Sorry to hear that. I hope you can consult with the seller if it's still covered by warranty.

I would suggest that you get in touch with Hioki's regional HQ in Singapore: hioki.com.sg/estore/product/clamp-on-ac-dc-hitester-3288-20/ They can point you in the right direction for their official merchant channels and distributors in your country so you can enjoy full warranty and service for the test equipment. That's what I did for my Hioki CM3286 and CM4376. But I took a chance to buy my 3288-20 off amazon with very limited warranty due to their promo price being low at that time.

@@maluplayer1 Thanks for your appreciation! Glad it helped you.

@@joelnavarro5430 Sorry po hindi ako familiar sa battery ng Wigo FOB key. Pero kung same sila na CR2032 lithium, meron po nyan sa Ace hardware, Handyman, Mr. DIY, at mga watch repair shop. Thank for watching!

@@AquaTech225 😆

@@antonopaco No sir. Data code 01 is the energy you are describing. Code 11 is the excess energy produced by the rooftop solar power plant, not used by the household load, that is exported to the utility. Be advised though that the best way to check this is through your own utility bill. I'm not sure if all bi-directional meters display the same codes and interpretations. Your official Meralco bill will confirm these codes.

@ thank you

Bakit imported + own use pa,

Bakit naka add yung own usage diba galing po sa harvest natin yun during day time

​@@JudsonLeano Hello sir. Hindi nyo po binabayaran sa utility ang inyong solar power production. The purpose of computing for actual kWHr consumption is to compute for subsidies and fit all charges which are very minimal amounts only. Your imported energy will make up the bulk of your charges, while your exported energy will appear as a discount under Net Metering Export Energy. Check nyo po yung net metering bill ninyo. Nandon po ang detalye.

@@NaveenkalusalyanNaveenkalu I bought mine from amazon last year for U$125. Now it's selling for U$197. I suggest you contact the official Hioki distributor in your region for a price comparison.

Thanks for your comments. I haven't tested regular household rubber gloves (like those laundry gloves). Even if they're rubber they pose an electrocution hazard for the operator doing actual live electrical work. I'd stick with the certified insulated rubber gloves.

Really? Sorry I also do not know why. I thought Rel works the same across all 3 "Max" series. Curiously, the Fluke 18B+, from which the UT18B Max seems to have been patterned after, didn't even have a Rel button. Actually I'm not really sure which came first the 18B+ or UT18B Max. But their designs have too many similarities to be mere coincidence.

@@nonsolorasatura9093 I appreciate your comments and inquiries. If you did not mention Andruino I wouldn't have known about this open source electronics platform. It looks like a great opportunity for personal projects. I'm sorry to say though that electronics aren't my primary use of multimeters, but main power monitoring (60Hz power supply for residential and commercial). The 61E+ has been commended by several reviews. Unfortunately I neither have it or the 89 series so I can't make an informed comment. But between these and the newer UT15B Max (or UT17B Max and UT18B Max) my choice would still be UT15B Max due to its superb high speed, 1000V, high interrupting capacity fuses, and several thoughtful safety features- suited for my purpose. It also comes with 2 sets of test leads: a standard tip, and a needle tip. I have no use for the needle tip but I think this is a nod to electronics usage. So yes I think UNI-T may have had electronics enthusiasts in mind when they designed the "Max" series. Be aware also that Fluke has a unit called Fluke 15B+ whose features are almost the same as the UT15B Max. Manual ranging DMMs have the advantage of speed IF you know the correct range to select beforehand. As far as I know some enthusiasts have ESR meters for more precise capacitance measurements. For highly precise resistance tests there are meters for this as well but they are quite expensive. Still, for overall usability I'd keep an auto ranging True RMS DMM always. The great thing about DMMs today is that one has a lot of choices. The 15B Max is a good option to consider.

@@alexregis5410 So far, the most common and affordable current clamp accessory sensor are the AC ones like the Fluke i400e and this UNI-T CS06A. Both work with the Fluke 107 but only for AC current. But Fluke has an AC/DC current clamp accessory sensor called i410 but it's quite costly, that you'd want to consider just getting something like a Fluke 325. Thanks for dropping by.

@@suplado7583 I appreciate your comments. From online photos Shell tools look indeed like Tsunoda tools. They're great value for money being high quality tools made in Japan. Good luck and stay safe!

@@jonathanrenomeron7732 Thanks for your appreciation. Ordinary clamp meters can't measure power factor. But power clamp meters can, like this Kyoritsu KEW2062BT. As you might expect they're quite an investment but still worth it for those who need them for their highly specialized purpose.

You're welcome and thanks also. Stanley hand tools are a good value for money. Just make sure you get one from a legit store for the genuine item. Merry Christmas po!

@@Bibekanandaroy-tn5jm I appreciate your comments! Thanks.

Hi sir, thanks for your comments. What you're reading should not be kW (which is power) but kWHr (which is energy). So, "following your formula 12kwHr + (24kwHr - 14kwHr) = 22 kwHr?" Yes, 22kWhr is correct, sir. That is your Actual kWHr Consumption. It is what your load consumes. Your load doesn't discriminate where its power is coming from. That is why this formula is used to determine how much of the power produced by the solar panel, and how much power coming from the utility, are being used by the customer's load. "cross checking, if i just reference the bi-meter 01 - 11, 12kw-14kw = -2kw got confused. 😅 The math is correct, sir, but not the application. Remember that your REC meter records the gross (total production) of your solar power plant. Some of it is used by your load, while some are exported to the utility, depending on weather conditions. The bi-directional meter knows how much is exported and imported but not Own-Use Energy (REC Meter reading- Export Code 11). All these energy parameters are measured across a specified length of time (your billing period) to get an accurate measurement of your energy usage. It's also important to note that this is just an example that may not be applicable to every customer with Net Metering as some codes may have different interpretations. The best reference you can use for your calculation is your next two billings that will come from the utility itself. I also did not properly understand the concept of Actual KWhr consumption and how my bill is computed until I got my first two billings on Net Metering and used them as reference.

@@ramschannelreviews Hi Sir, thank you for your time answering my post. You verified my assumption as well regarding the REC meter records all energy of consumed + exported. In my example, the REC meter reading is 24KWh. If I compare this with the Bi meter 01 + 11 = 12KWh + 14KWh = 26KWh, it is off by 2KWh. Not sure though if the offset is in relation with how these 2 meters are calibrated, and will get more accurate over prolonged period of measurements. Definitely, anxious to get my first billing to understand more regarding this. Thank you again ! PS. when I was talking with the Meralco engineer, he mentioned that the REC meter will not be needed anymore. They are just waiting for the implementing rules to be forwarded to them by government.

If you don't need to test DC current the 2127R is better. But if you need to measure DC current, consider the Kyoritsu KEW 203 (up to 400A capacity). In fact, the cost of the KEW 2127R and KEW 203 together would still be less than the cost of the KEW 2046R alone. I suggest reading up on their online specifications to make sure they meet your specific Measurement Category.

@ramschannelreviews terima kasih telah merespon. Maksud saya adalah apakah tingkat akurasi antara 2027r dan 2046r sama dan tidak selisih? Saya hanya ingin membeli salah satunya

The published accuracy of the 2127R seems to be better than the 2046R. You can see and compare the details on their website. In actual use, I find the 2127R easier to handle. I believe one of the reasons for this is that the 2127R is a newer model.

@@marlonmorales8672 Thank you po sir!

@@LaCienciaDeTodo-Uruguay You're welcome! Good day, Uruguay!

@@ramschannelreviews Gracias

@@LaCienciaDeTodo-Uruguay Thanks for your appreciation.

@@purplefurture6960 1Amp

@@ramschannelreviews ah ok How can i find clam meter My needs dc voltage and current , that its clamps detect volt up to like 50 dc volt And dc current i need it to clamp black car battery wire to see if there is leakage or not

From published info online, it seems just the color. This is just conjecture. I think different regional markets have different color schemes. Bosch seems to have consolidated their various test equipment, at least in the Philippines-Asian region, with a harmonized blue color scheme and often with "Professional" designation.

@@MarygraceCarlos-b3w Depende po yan kung match ang input voltage ng solar light at output voltage ng solar panel. Sa case nyo po, hindi ko alam kung match ang ratings ng inyong 60W na JD solar light sa 60W na Bosca solar panel na ang output ay 22V. Sa Bosca solar light ko na rated 25W and 40W, match po sya sa output voltage ng kasama nilang Bosca solar panel na around 7V DC. Etong 60W ko na solar panel ang output nya ay 22V kaya hindi sya pwede ng direct connection, dapat dadaan muna sya sa inverter/controller para maregulate ang voltage at macharge ang 12V battery. Pero hindi ko sya balak i-direct connect sa solar light.

@@mototechph2240 The Fluke website mentions that it is compatible with Fluke i410 AC/DC current accessory clamp. I have no Fluke 179 so I can't say for certain if the i400e is also compatible with it, although the input ratio of the i400e and i410 is identical at 1mV/A.

Thank you for your appreciation!

Thank you for your practical advice, which seems to me to be gained from real life experiences. There are indeed many factors to consider on electrical safety and you pointed out some of them. I appreciate them. Since my video merely scratched the surface of PPEs, I also mentioned that all applicable rules for safety must be followed when doing electrical works.

Thanks for your appreciation!

You're welcome!

Did it happen regardless of the test leads you were using? DMMs normally display random numbers when switched to ACV (or mV AC) function. At DC voltage function, it should display zero (or very close to it) before being connected to a test point (like a car battery). But the numbers should stabilize to the correct value once the test leads are connected to a voltage source under test that's within its range. If the F107 still displays random incorrect values when connected to a known voltage source, you can check with another set of test leads, as the one you were using may be defective. Or if you have another DMM verify the readings with that to narrow down the cause of "wonky" values.

Hello! Thanks for your appreciation!

Hello! Thanks for your comments. My understanding also is that the Z3210 should be compatible across new Hioki devices with HID functions. Some examples: CM3286-50, CM4141-50, IR4052-50, and IR4057-50 (note the "-50" designation). One Z3210 should be able to support any of them although you may need to pair them anew each time. My IR4057-20 is an older model so it cannot use the Z3210. But if you're using the newer model, IR4057-50, it should accommodate the Z3210 just fine.

@@OrxanSultanl-o5p Hi, thanks for dropping by. In general for power quality monitoring of 50/60Hz user systems at normal operating conditions, we observe the following: 5% limit for voltage total harmonics distortion (thd), and 5% limit for current total demand distortion (tdd). Note that different areas may have their own electrical regulations. Always follow your local (or national) electrical code regulations.

@@ramschannelreviews thank you for the detailed and productive response, I will keep track of you, a very interesting video

@@OrxanSultanl-o5p You're welcome! I also appreciate your kind words.

I understand and I appreciate your observations. With just the clamp jaws, current was 66.2A, with a single-turn of the flex CT current was 69A. The load current wasn't steady but these values were reasonably close enough. With 2-turns of the flex CT current was 136A. In theory, 2*66.2= 132.4A, while 2*69=138A. Both values were not that far off from actual reading of 136A. So, while you would normally just use one turn of the flexible CT (unrolled, as you mentioned) I think that in certain situations coiling the flex CT twice can be an alternative way to measure current. One just needs to remember to correctly interpret the result. It's one of the advantages of these particular clamp meter CM3289 and flexible CT3280 from Hioki.

Thank you very much!

@@WolfKillerLestat I think so, but I couldn't recall exactly. The reason being that the included Li-ion rechargeable battery for my unit had already gone bad: it couldn't be fully charged no matter how long I kept it connected to AC voltage supply. I no longer use it. Instead, I use rechargeable Ni-MH batteries, which so much better.

@@MukeshGautam-j4u 24 pages of front matter, 1832 pages of main A-Z vocabulary entries, and 60 pages of back matter which includes the Word Lover's Ramble. Fonts of the Chambers appears to be a bit bigger but paler than that of the Webster's New World College Dictionary 5th Edition and Webster's 3rd New International Dictionary 2023 Indian print. The papers of both Webster's are more opaque than that of the Chambers. I already use reading glasses so font size isn't an issue for me. The typography of both Webster's are easier on my eyes than the Chambers'. If you wish to get the Chambers I suggest that you check immediately that there's no missing pages, out of order pages, and that you get the revised 13th edition printed in 2016 (clearly stated in the front matter.)

@ramschannelreviews hey I want a dictionary but I'm confused wheather I buy Webster's collegiate 11 edition or the chambers 13 edition in Webster's negative point is buyers say that the size of the words are not easily readable and the chambers is that it is mostly focused on the British English and the definition of the words are not easily understandable as you have the chambers dictionary please tell about its words old to new or not , their definitions are easy to understand or not and easily readable or not tell and also tell me that what is good to buy Merriam Webster collegiate 11 edition OR The Chambers 13 edition

@@MukeshGautam-j4u For me, the British vocabulary entries in the Chambers Dictionary isn't an issue. It just means it has more words of uniquely British origin which made it into general English usage, in the same manner that M-W Collegiate Dictionary 11th Edition has more American origin words. Both of these cases work to the advantage of the reader. Old and new words? Well, the latest issue of the M-W 11th is its 2020 printing, while the Chambers had its last update in 2016. It's safe to say that the M-W has more new words. However, the Chambers is a large book and hence it has more entries. Being last updated in 2016 doesn't make it that old, just not as up-to-date. You're likely to find a very uncommon word in a Chambers Dictionary 13th Edition than the M-W Collegiate Dictionary 11th Edition. Which is easily understandable? I wish Chambers offered a try-before-you-buy Dictionary app so you can see for yourself how it presents its definitions. I have its Dictionary app which cost me about U$9.7 one-time payment on my phone and I tell you it's great! None of the typography issues in its book version. But I'm not sure if it will also be updated if a new version of the Chambers Dictionary is released and it doesn't have the Word Lover's Ramble, which is not a deal breaker really. The M-W also has an app but it's subscription based. However, it is available for free at Google Playstore with ads and it's regularly updated. Try it free so you can see for yourself how it treats its definitions. My subjective opinion is that M-W takes its definitions a bit more formal and precise, which means sometimes you may need to look up other entries. Chambers sounds more brief and conversational. Which is better? All I can say is that both have their uses. Sometimes you just want a quick answer, sometimes you need a precise one. Some people have more than 2 dictionaries at one time for this reason. Example M-W Collegiate Dictionary 11th Edition app conclave: 1: a private meeting or secret assembly especially : a meeting of Roman Catholic cardinals secluded continuously while choosing a pope 2: a gathering of a group or association Example The Chambers Dictionary app conclave: 1. The room in which cardinals meet to elect a pope 2. The body of cardinals 3. Any secret assembly 4. A private room (obsolete) The real issue for me is the typography of the books. M-W is easier on my eyes even though its fonts are smaller. I get distracted with the less opaque paper of the Chambers and its semi colons to separate senses. Curiously in the Chambers Dictionary app, they did away with these semi-colons and used numbers instead (see above) which is much better! Since the size of fonts of both books isn't that much of a big difference, and since the M-W cost just U$15 while the Chambers costs U$50 now at amazon my vote goes to M-W. If you do, I suggest getting the M-W from amazon seller and shipper (not from a third party) to get the 2020 printing. If I had to do it over again, I'd skip the book version of the Chambers Dictionary and get the app. But I have no regrets getting the book version of the M-W Collegiate Dictionary 11th Edition. Hope this helps you. Good luck!

Thank you

@@MukeshGautam-j4u You're welcome! I hope you find your dictionary.

@@JacquesLevesque-d5w That's an interesting observation, sir. It's not exactly zero current, however. The 3-phase currents at no-load were 3.8A, 2.7A, and 1A. It was tested out of the camera, so it's not included in the video. In the absence of precise lab equipment testing and tear-down of the DPS, I can infer that it's possible that part of the missing phase was generated from the induced voltage, as you suggested, resulting in a 3-phase output. The phase sequence was verified at 10:39 with the Hioki CM3286. Thanks for watching!

@@ramschannelreviews One thing you can try, after the motor is up to speed is to remove the motor wire connected to the V terminal. Now recheck your voltages at the converter terminals, also check voltage from the wire that you removed from the V terminal to U terminal and then also wire to W terminal

@@ramschannelreviews Did some more research on these units, sold on Amazon. Found review that shows a picture of one of these units that went bad, customer has the unit apart in the picture. Picture shows 4 start capacitors and 1 run capacitors. This is just a static converter with digital control start circuit. The three phase voltage you see, is the induced voltage from the motor.

@@JacquesLevesque-d5w Thanks for this valuable additional information. In fact I heard about the DPS first at amazon. Despite the dissatisfaction of several users I decided to just go ahead and buy it since I only need the 3-phase output it generates so that I can test my 3-phase power clamp meters, not intending it to run a 3-phase load. The manufacturer said that a balanced 3-phase voltage would be generated if the motor was loaded to its rated capacity, something I still have to verify. From my experience, I haven't seen any customers who used the DPS (I used to work in the electric utility for nearly 30 years). If they need to run a 3-phase motor, then they apply for 3-phase service.