Using the router bushing as a reference is brilliant. Also yes to a tape review video. There are so many take aways to adapt tools to use the straightness of a guild rail
Not only do I enjoy learning from you, Peter, but I also feel calmer having heard your voice!! Thank you for this amazing tool and your videos all of which are immensely helpful!
Became a member today, this channel is top notch. Having done carpentry since the 80's, I've noticed a rather disturbing difference between YT channels doing carpenter content. There are a few YT channels of carpenters making YT videos, and then there are a TON of UA-camrs making carpentry content. While all the channels can be informing, if you really want to learn something, follow and support the actual carpenters. They will give away a lot of invaluable knowledge without even knowing it. This is one of those channels.
I circled back to this video today and for all us Americans, a 30mm guide bushing can be hard to find but a 1 3/16 guide bushing is the same thing. I bought one in the ubiquitous Porter Cable style that should fit almost any router. Amazon has it. It is the Trend Screw-On Style Guide Bush for Precision Routing, 1 3/16 Inch, GB/US/30 and it's a lot cheaper than the one made specifically for the Trend router.
Thanks. At the risk of stating the obvious, I use a 30mm guide bush because it's a common size in the metric world; you should be using whatever sized guide bush and forstner bit that you can get your hands on easily - the specific size doesn't matter, it's just to locate the router conveniently. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop for the quick and easy router guide any guide bushing should work, there are also a lot of very nice 3D printed guides now available for various routers and guide rails but I have seen some of your knock down jigs that call out for guide bushings of specific metric sizes.
A lovely simple original project. Well done. And yes to the tapes video. An idea this project would help a lot of us if it came unassembled in a project pack - more profit for you.
Simple and elegant. Thank you for sharing! Yes, please share your double-sided tape details. I've been using two different types and been unsatisfied with their performance.
I bought a couple of thin polyethylene cutting boards for £2.99 each today for another little job (to make some 'saucers' to go under the feet of a sofa bed so that they slide nicely when the bed is opened and don't damage the floor). They are somewhere between A4 and A3 in size and about 3mm thick. They would make ideal support pieces for your guide, would slide really easily and not damage the wood.
Quick improvement if you only have one router: trace the base of the router on the thick top part and cut it out, then drill the hole for the router bit only in the thin part that goes beside the rail. That way you only lose up to 5 mm depth and can slot the router into the cut out and it will stay in place without screwing it in.
Yes, if that's all you need, but using the 30mm guide bush means that you make the jig once and use it with every router you may own, now or in the future. 👍
FINALLY a jig you came up with I don't have to make!🤣🤣🤣 Made one of those about 9 years ago for my PC890. Used a 1`/4" hard board, I thinned down, under the jig to level it out. Used it for about 6 years. and it worked great. Now days I use the LR32 router guide plate/sled with an adapter for my PC890. On a 32mm holy rail. I do normal shelf pin holes, and with a piece of 1/4" plywood under the rocker center button, it lifts the pin, so I can do dados/rabbits as well. Don't have to worry about the stability and tipping as there are spacers built into the guide plate already.
Thanks for this. I like. I have the 1400, rail and guide. I'm not mad keen on the guide, although it's 7/10 for me. Your ply version is appealing. I can attest to the 30mm hole for bushing being a great touch as I use the same on a circle template (but of ply with 30mm hole near one end). With your guide, I would bridge the second ridge in the rail which would allow the guide to be locked in position in the same way you have done the stops. This allows accurate plunge cutting - potentially in combo with additional stops - for anybody who doesn't own a pillar drill, like me! Accurate jig making with M6 (1mm per turn) can mes an increment closer. Yes to the tape type video if you please.
I’ve been thinking of making something like this for a while. It just needs an additional piece to be able to line up the adapter and rail with layout lines. Maybe something that fits in the guide bush hole or fits over the rail in the same way, but cut to line up with the centre of the router bit.
The layout lines are on the face of the jig, and extend down the edges for easy reference to lines on the workpiece; they are absolutely centred - that's why I used the marking knife and the forstner tip to locate it. I've never needed anything else. 👍
Thanks Peter, I think this is something I need to make, I can think of a number of situations where this would be useful to have ! You've offered the tape, so you'd better stick to it ! 😉
I would suggest sanding the edges which press on the rail and giving them a spot of wax polish. This should minimise wear on the track if you're using this jig frequently.
Brilliant idea. my Rutlands router motor just failed catastrophically and I've been using a Makita trimmer in my router table which is less than ideal. I'll knock one of these up for the big Dewalt to use it on the MFT until I finish fighting with Rutlands to get them to honour their warranty and get my table back in business. I think I'll probably make it out of a single piece of polycarbonate for strength and rout it to fit over the guide rail and provide the supporting foot. There aren't many universal router guide rail adapters on the market.
The reliability of using stops is a factor of how snug the jig is to the rail combined with how far away from the rail the router bit sits. As such, I think it is better to reference the other rib and work off of the other side of the rail. Any base slightly taller than the ribs on the rail would work and you don't need to worry about 5mm boards at all.
If that’s what you need then that’s what you,should make, just be aware that going that way around that would take a minimum of 12mm off the depth of plunge. 👍
Double sided tape video would be handy. Many of the Japanese makers use it with amazing results. I am useless when it comes to using Super Glue, get more on my fingers than anything else....
Have you considered using Valchromat for jigs rather than plywood? It's an MDF like material where they dye the wood fibres and use an epoxy glue rather than a formaldehyde one. It's stronger and dimensionally more stable than standard MDF and plywood. It's also cheaper than birch plywood.
I’m familiar with Valchromat thanks - it’s what my benches are made of. As I think I say in the video, I tend to use Birch ply because it looks good and is relatable ie most people know what it is and can get their hands on it, albeit at a price. That’s not the case with coloured MDF like Valchromat or Fibracolour, which is much harder to get hold of in eg the US. And just for the record, the MRMDF that I use also has a formaldehyde free adhesive. 👍
Nicely done. UHMW plastic comes to mind. Its more expensive but nice and slippery. I also wonder if putting shelf pin spacing holes in the rail would be "good".
Thanks. If I was making something commercially it would probably be from the same CompacMel material the loose tenon jigs are made from. And it’s on the list. 👍👍
I just used a shelf pin jig to put 5mil holes with 32mm spacing in my Wen Track guide rail to make a LR-32 rail. Bought a rail adapter which I’m waiting for. I just saw this and now feel like I waisted the money. This was a great solution with a 5mil hole in line with my rail…brilliant idea.
Great idea, I thing base should not be flat all along, instead it should raise on four points, it will reduce friction and space for wood dust will be created hence less chance of scratches
Well, having made one and used it for years without any issues I disagree, but as always I offer up these ideas as starting points for you to adapt to your needs as you see fit. 👍
Thanks so much Peter, I was one of those expressing jealousy of your LR32 router guide! I also saw a guy make a shelf pin guide where he used a shelf pin stuck on the end of the board to register against a fence of semi circular holes, the same principle as when you made an MFT top from the LR32 using the router. Perhaps it could be an offering for your 10MW product line onde day??? Anyway thanks again and have a good weekend.
Hi Peter, this may sound like a silly question but how do you keep the router from moving in the hole? I have an old German SF Scheer router with a flat bottom and I can imagine it not staying still on top of the jig. Great videos! Subscribed today
Welcome! The hole you drill in the platform is to take a 30mm guide bush that’s fitted to the router - this locates it precisely, but also makes it easy to remove from the base. 👍
From what I’ve seen it looks like a solid product that’s a little less expensive to buy than the Mafell. Unfortunately Virutex seem to have very little interest in serving the UK market, so I don’t think it’s likely that I’ll get my hands on one. 🤷♂️👍
First to watch and like - feel like I've won a UA-cam level! Thanks for your videos. I've watched and rewatched so many of them over the last six months, to the point where my fiance calls you Uncle Peter when she hears your voice coming from my computer!
When I click on Amazon link for double sided tape here in USA so many choices come up. Which one - size, material (some are clear, some black) are you using and which do you recommend? If possible I need more specifics. Yes to tape video!
Thanks. My amazon links open to the product in your local store - if it isn't singling out one product then it's likely that the exact one I'm using isn't available where you are. The strong tape is 3M 9088. 👍
No issues with battery life, purchasing reasons explained a year ago here 👍; "Why buy this saw" - ua-cam.com/video/u7H5On0j_5c/v-deo.htmlsi=svjv_7NpgQnlp4BN
thank you. have been looking for a guide rail adapter for Makita track / Bosch router for some time. this will absolutely work! Am wondering if there is something to put on the underside of the part the router sits on that would reduce friction as it slides across the material ? some kinda roller bearing or as someone below mentioned - polycarbonate ? Ala the friction strips on the alum track?
In my experience there’s very little friction on the rails or the workpiece, but if you feel the need then there’s low-friction tape you can buy. eg amzn.to/4b5DnC6 👍
It’s not rubber, it’s a coloured throughout MDF called Fibracolour. I made the bench top, covered the process in this video 👍 - DIY MFT; ua-cam.com/video/223QALIbnRc/v-deo.html
It seems to me I'd always be working hard to keep the router from sliding off the "sled". I prefer to use two hands on the router ...does it slide off the Sled under use?
I have Bosch track saw+ track. Would you recommend getting the festool(/festool compatible) rail instead? I'm not sure how I'd make similar jig/guide for the Bosch rail.
You can do it with the Bosch and Mafell rails, you just need some carefully placed kerf cuts as those rails don’t have the central rib. If you’re looking at alternative rails then the latest G2 rails from evolution are very good, and would certainly be easier to make the sled for. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop This excellent advice, thanks Peter! The Bosch track and connecting bar costs more than a full Evolution G2 kit( 2x tracks, connecting piece), which furthermore includes track clamps.
I don't understand. You have one of the most expensive routers on the market but you need a cheap track? Routers come with curved side (partial circle) which at its center is the bit. There is zero reason for a track.
Watch it again and pay attention; I explain clearly why the track is useful. At the risk of stating the obvious, I don’t make these videos for myself - check out the comments, you’ll find many people understand what you don’t. 👍
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Yes, a video on the different types of tapes would be very useful
Yes a tapes one would nicely complement your glues one
Perhaps compare to glue alternatives
Thanks! It’s coming… 👍
Yes, a double sided tape overview would be great.
Throw a few up and see which ones stick
A double sided tape video sounds like gripping content. I’d be glued to the screen!
That’s what we need - sticky content! 😂
Using the router bushing as a reference is brilliant. Also yes to a tape review video. There are so many take aways to adapt tools to use the straightness of a guild rail
Thanks! Yes, lots of potential with the guide bush! 👍👍
Not only do I enjoy learning from you, Peter, but I also feel calmer having heard your voice!! Thank you for this amazing tool and your videos all of which are immensely helpful!
Thank you! Very kind of you to say and very much appreciated. 👍👍
Brilliant concept Peter and a video on double-sided tape would be most interesting. Thanks again
Became a member today, this channel is top notch. Having done carpentry since the 80's, I've noticed a rather disturbing difference between YT channels doing carpenter content. There are a few YT channels of carpenters making YT videos, and then there are a TON of UA-camrs making carpentry content. While all the channels can be informing, if you really want to learn something, follow and support the actual carpenters. They will give away a lot of invaluable knowledge without even knowing it. This is one of those channels.
Thank you, and welcome! 🙌👍
I circled back to this video today and for all us Americans, a 30mm guide bushing can be hard to find but a 1 3/16 guide bushing is the same thing. I bought one in the ubiquitous Porter Cable style that should fit almost any router. Amazon has it. It is the Trend Screw-On Style Guide Bush for Precision Routing, 1 3/16 Inch, GB/US/30 and it's a lot cheaper than the one made specifically for the Trend router.
Thanks. At the risk of stating the obvious, I use a 30mm guide bush because it's a common size in the metric world; you should be using whatever sized guide bush and forstner bit that you can get your hands on easily - the specific size doesn't matter, it's just to locate the router conveniently. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop for the quick and easy router guide any guide bushing should work, there are also a lot of very nice 3D printed guides now available for various routers and guide rails but I have seen some of your knock down jigs that call out for guide bushings of specific metric sizes.
A lovely simple original project. Well done. And yes to the tapes video. An idea this project would help a lot of us if it came unassembled in a project pack - more profit for you.
Thanks! 👍
That's just brilliant, Peter! 😃
Thanks a bunch for the tutorial!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks, you too! 👍
Always up to save some dollars with fun little projects like this. Thanks for video Peter!
Simple and elegant. Thank you for sharing!
Yes, please share your double-sided tape details. I've been using two different types and been unsatisfied with their performance.
Thanks! And yes, it’s coming! 👍
I bought a couple of thin polyethylene cutting boards for £2.99 each today for another little job (to make some 'saucers' to go under the feet of a sofa bed so that they slide nicely when the bed is opened and don't damage the floor).
They are somewhere between A4 and A3 in size and about 3mm thick. They would make ideal support pieces for your guide, would slide really easily and not damage the wood.
Thank you Peter! Lots of possibilities with this. Yes please on the different tapes.
Quick improvement if you only have one router: trace the base of the router on the thick top part and cut it out, then drill the hole for the router bit only in the thin part that goes beside the rail. That way you only lose up to 5 mm depth and can slot the router into the cut out and it will stay in place without screwing it in.
Yes, if that's all you need, but using the 30mm guide bush means that you make the jig once and use it with every router you may own, now or in the future. 👍
Hi Peter, Very useful for the router , your ideas are never ending, as always a great video Take care
Thanks Shaun! 👍
FINALLY a jig you came up with I don't have to make!🤣🤣🤣 Made one of those about 9 years ago for my PC890. Used a 1`/4" hard board, I thinned down, under the jig to level it out. Used it for about 6 years. and it worked great.
Now days I use the LR32 router guide plate/sled with an adapter for my PC890. On a 32mm holy rail. I do normal shelf pin holes, and with a piece of 1/4" plywood under the rocker center button, it lifts the pin, so I can do dados/rabbits as well. Don't have to worry about the stability and tipping as there are spacers built into the guide plate already.
I will be making this. I was about to make a jig for my router to follow for a project I am working on, but this is a much better solution.
Sounds great! 👍
Thanks for this. I like. I have the 1400, rail and guide. I'm not mad keen on the guide, although it's 7/10 for me. Your ply version is appealing. I can attest to the 30mm hole for bushing being a great touch as I use the same on a circle template (but of ply with 30mm hole near one end). With your guide, I would bridge the second ridge in the rail which would allow the guide to be locked in position in the same way you have done the stops. This allows accurate plunge cutting - potentially in combo with additional stops - for anybody who doesn't own a pillar drill, like me! Accurate jig making with M6 (1mm per turn) can mes an increment closer. Yes to the tape type video if you please.
A lot of people seem to be wanting the tape video, I guess you're going to have to do it now! Yes please.
I guess I’ll have to! 😂👍
Thank you Peter for another great video, and yes to the tape video, cheers and take care out there
I’ve been thinking of making something like this for a while. It just needs an additional piece to be able to line up the adapter and rail with layout lines. Maybe something that fits in the guide bush hole or fits over the rail in the same way, but cut to line up with the centre of the router bit.
The layout lines are on the face of the jig, and extend down the edges for easy reference to lines on the workpiece; they are absolutely centred - that's why I used the marking knife and the forstner tip to locate it. I've never needed anything else. 👍
Yes Peter, a video about tapes would be interesting.
But still waiting for the low budget router table 😉
It’s coming… 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop 😍
Thanks Peter, I think this is something I need to make, I can think of a number of situations where this would be useful to have !
You've offered the tape, so you'd better stick to it ! 😉
I just knew that adhesive joke would come up eventually! 😂Thanks Andy! 👍
Yes, I'd love to see a double-sided tape video. I need a double-sided tape that will permanently stick to metal roof trusses that get quite hot.
Thanks, this video has given me some ideas. A video on tapes would be appreciated.
I would suggest sanding the edges which press on the rail and giving them a spot of wax polish. This should minimise wear on the track if you're using this jig frequently.
I know what I’ll be making at the weekend ! Cheers Peter !
Cheers Lewis! 😂 👍
Brilliant idea. my Rutlands router motor just failed catastrophically and I've been using a Makita trimmer in my router table which is less than ideal. I'll knock one of these up for the big Dewalt to use it on the MFT until I finish fighting with Rutlands to get them to honour their warranty and get my table back in business. I think I'll probably make it out of a single piece of polycarbonate for strength and rout it to fit over the guide rail and provide the supporting foot. There aren't many universal router guide rail adapters on the market.
Thanks! 👍
I love your jig-techniques.
Thank You
Simple, easy, universal, … a definite must have!!!
Thank you! 👍
The reliability of using stops is a factor of how snug the jig is to the rail combined with how far away from the rail the router bit sits. As such, I think it is better to reference the other rib and work off of the other side of the rail. Any base slightly taller than the ribs on the rail would work and you don't need to worry about 5mm boards at all.
If that’s what you need then that’s what you,should make, just be aware that going that way around that would take a minimum of 12mm off the depth of plunge. 👍
Double sided tape video would be handy. Many of the Japanese makers use it with amazing results. I am useless when it comes to using Super Glue, get more on my fingers than anything else....
Old school Peter, love it.
He's still in there somewhere David! 😂 👍
Excellent Peter,cheap as chips gets my vote!👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍😎😎😎😎😎
Cheers Alan! 👍
another day in the shop making a new jig-----thanx Peter rick
Thanks Rick! 👍
Very well done Peter!
Thanks Steve! 👍
Have you considered using Valchromat for jigs rather than plywood? It's an MDF like material where they dye the wood fibres and use an epoxy glue rather than a formaldehyde one. It's stronger and dimensionally more stable than standard MDF and plywood. It's also cheaper than birch plywood.
I’m familiar with Valchromat thanks - it’s what my benches are made of. As I think I say in the video, I tend to use Birch ply because it looks good and is relatable ie most people know what it is and can get their hands on it, albeit at a price. That’s not the case with coloured MDF like Valchromat or Fibracolour, which is much harder to get hold of in eg the US. And just for the record, the MRMDF that I use also has a formaldehyde free adhesive. 👍
Agreed double sided tape top 5 with applications 👍
Hi Peter. May we see a full demo of your fine looking new product. I see now how I have fouled up with my routering in this process before. Thankyou.
Yes, absolutely - it’s coming soon. 👍👍
Yes, a video on the different types of tapes and where they are useful would good
It’s coming… 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter
Nicely done. UHMW plastic comes to mind. Its more expensive but nice and slippery. I also wonder if putting shelf pin spacing holes in the rail would be "good".
Thanks. If I was making something commercially it would probably be from the same CompacMel material the loose tenon jigs are made from. And it’s on the list. 👍👍
I just used a shelf pin jig to put 5mil holes with 32mm spacing in my Wen Track guide rail to make a LR-32 rail. Bought a rail adapter which I’m waiting for. I just saw this and now feel like I waisted the money. This was a great solution with a 5mil hole in line with my rail…brilliant idea.
One of your best. Thanks Peter.
Thank you! 🙌 👍
Another great video, many thanks Peter.👍
Great idea, I thing base should not be flat all along, instead it should raise on four points, it will reduce friction and space for wood dust will be created hence less chance of scratches
Well, having made one and used it for years without any issues I disagree, but as always I offer up these ideas as starting points for you to adapt to your needs as you see fit. 👍
Thanks so much Peter, I was one of those expressing jealousy of your LR32 router guide! I also saw a guy make a shelf pin guide where he used a shelf pin stuck on the end of the board to register against a fence of semi circular holes, the same principle as when you made an MFT top from the LR32 using the router. Perhaps it could be an offering for your 10MW product line onde day??? Anyway thanks again and have a good weekend.
Cheers Danny. Yes, that’s on the cards. 👍👍
Hi Peter, this may sound like a silly question but how do you keep the router from moving in the hole? I have an old German SF Scheer router with a flat bottom and I can imagine it not staying still on top of the jig.
Great videos! Subscribed today
Welcome! The hole you drill in the platform is to take a 30mm guide bush that’s fitted to the router - this locates it precisely, but also makes it easy to remove from the base. 👍
Got a jig similar to that, love to make jigs.
If possible, could you review the virutex dowelling joiner? See how it compares to the red one reviewed and the Triton one.
From what I’ve seen it looks like a solid product that’s a little less expensive to buy than the Mafell. Unfortunately Virutex seem to have very little interest in serving the UK market, so I don’t think it’s likely that I’ll get my hands on one. 🤷♂️👍
Well done as always
Cool idea. I collect tape so more info "wood" be great!
Definitely interested in the different double-sided tapes. Whether any of them are available here in Australia remains to be seen!
Thanks! Yes, that’s always the challenge! 👍
First to watch and like - feel like I've won a UA-cam level! Thanks for your videos. I've watched and rewatched so many of them over the last six months, to the point where my fiance calls you Uncle Peter when she hears your voice coming from my computer!
Wow, thanks! 🙌 😂
@Peter Millard Can you do a DIY Table router ideally for a Bosch PoF 1220ea
It on the list, though not specifically for the Bosch. 👍
How wonderful it will be if we can create y axis movement as well
You could added a 6mm reference plunge pin to use on the LR32 rail.
That’s for a future video. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop - you could also show how to turn any track into an LR32 😉
When I click on Amazon link for double sided tape here in USA so many choices come up. Which one - size, material (some are clear, some black) are you using and which do you recommend? If possible I need more specifics. Yes to tape video!
Thanks. My amazon links open to the product in your local store - if it isn't singling out one product then it's likely that the exact one I'm using isn't available where you are. The strong tape is 3M 9088. 👍
Great video. Now I just need a guide rail and some time 🙂
How do you find the battery life on your table saw? I’m surprised you went for a cordless one, considering it is set up in a workshop all of the time.
No issues with battery life, purchasing reasons explained a year ago here 👍; "Why buy this saw" - ua-cam.com/video/u7H5On0j_5c/v-deo.htmlsi=svjv_7NpgQnlp4BN
thank you. have been looking for a guide rail adapter for Makita track / Bosch router for some time. this will absolutely work! Am wondering if there is something to put on the underside of the part the router sits on that would reduce friction as it slides across
the material ? some kinda roller bearing or as someone below mentioned - polycarbonate ? Ala the friction strips on the alum track?
In my experience there’s very little friction on the rails or the workpiece, but if you feel the need then there’s low-friction tape you can buy. eg amzn.to/4b5DnC6 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Awesome -- Thank you again
UK here: If you don't mind my asking, where did you get that rubber-bench-top with clamp-holes (? 2 cm diam) in it?
It’s not rubber, it’s a coloured throughout MDF called Fibracolour. I made the bench top, covered the process in this video 👍 - DIY MFT; ua-cam.com/video/223QALIbnRc/v-deo.html
It seems to me I'd always be working hard to keep the router from sliding off the "sled". I prefer to use two hands on the router ...does it slide off the Sled under use?
Nope, router locates accurately in the sled and works fine - but feel free to us another solution. 🤷♂️ 👍
Thanks Peter, a fine idea
👏🏼🌟It’s a winner Peter.
Thanks Mandy! 👍
Hi. A UHMW jig made using a cheap cutting board would make it slide a bit smoother
Yet another solution. Thanks 🙏🏽
Thank you! 👍
Love it - thanks Peter.
I have Bosch track saw+ track. Would you recommend getting the festool(/festool compatible) rail instead?
I'm not sure how I'd make similar jig/guide for the Bosch rail.
You can do it with the Bosch and Mafell rails, you just need some carefully placed kerf cuts as those rails don’t have the central rib. If you’re looking at alternative rails then the latest G2 rails from evolution are very good, and would certainly be easier to make the sled for. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop This excellent advice, thanks Peter!
The Bosch track and connecting bar costs more than a full Evolution G2 kit( 2x tracks, connecting piece), which furthermore includes track clamps.
@@JTordur It's an excellent set - full video out this Friday! 🤫👍
Where did you get your marking knife, I've not seen on that's not from USA?
It was a special by Nate from SimplyOrn8 - @simply_orn8 on instagram, Etsy store here - www.etsy.com/shop/simplyorn8
Brilliant idea 👍
Nice thanks sure to make one ❤
Nice 👌 How did you manage without that little table saw 😅
Thanks! And honestly, I would have found a way - but it really does tick the boxes for these kind of little trimming cuts. 👍👍
Great Simple Effective 😊
Simple is efficient.
Yes to the top tapes!! Thanks.
What is that sliding contraption on the table saw @1:49 ?
It’s a sliding table. 👍
Thanks for sharing.
Top tapes tips....yes please
Yes to tape 😊
+1 for the tape video
Simple. Like it 👍
I should have made this instead of my overly complicated version for my Katsu!
Thanks!
Thank you so much! 🙌👍
I would be glued to the screen during a video about tapes ! Roll it on.......
😂👍
Would be interested in a tape video
On it! 👍
Ahhhh an idea trigger!
Always! 😂👍
Nooice
I don't understand. You have one of the most expensive routers on the market but you need a cheap track? Routers come with curved side (partial circle) which at its center is the bit. There is zero reason for a track.
Watch it again and pay attention; I explain clearly why the track is useful. At the risk of stating the obvious, I don’t make these videos for myself - check out the comments, you’ll find many people understand what you don’t. 👍