How to make a DURABLE HDZero drone
Вставка
- Опубліковано 4 сер 2024
- Nano 90 camera mounts
www.thingiverse.com/thing:577...
www.thingiverse.com/thing:598...
Wide Top Plate
flyfive33.com/product/switchb...
www.thingiverse.com/thing:513...
Front brace to protect camera and stack
flyfive33.com/product/front-o...
Grade 12.9 screws
www.getfpv.com/lumenier-hardw...
Titanium motor mount screws
www.getfpv.com/m3x8-button-he...
Recommended flight controller with BEC for VTX
www.racedayquads.com/products...
Low profile M3 Gummies
www.getfpv.com/m3-anti-vibrat...
Timestamps:
00:00 - Intro
01:45 - Main tips
03:41 - Recommended stack parts
05:30 - Grade 12.9 screws and wide top plate
10:02 - Seal camera gaps
10:21 - Build a tight stack
16:36 - Solder antenna nuts
19:15 - VTX orientation
21:56 - E6000 VTX MIPI, closing thoughts - Наука та технологія
You already know I made it to the end! Lots of notes made for my upcoming build, thanks a bunch Ryan!
Thanks! Good luck on the build
Great video! Watched every minute. Thank you for taking g the time to make this. Very informative. It’s hilarious how often we get caught up in the build and neglect the basics so much so that we wonder why we fry stuff and waste money… we just need to protect it more.
Thanks!
This was a great video. Thank you for all you do for the community 🙏
Great video and excellent pro tips, watched every minute of it. Thanks for your time in putting this and other valuable video's together.
Glad it was helpful!
Good vid. I do many of the same things. I haven't had luck with titanium screws for the motor screws because the heads strip way too easy. I only use them on the top plate. I haven't thought about taking off the joystick plug...probably because it's so easy to do what you did , knock off a cap and then have to solder back on. That's a pain. I tape my esc and frame the way you did as well. I'll have to try the Kapton tape, I've always used electrical tape but that doesn't hold the best.
Can you add a link for the STL for the rear combo mount for the SMA antenna and the EP1 ExpressLRS receiver? Thanks!
This video was so timely!!! Thanks Ryan
Glad it helped!
Great video thanks for your hard work
Thanks
Made it to end, lol. Nice build!
I’d suggest using metal washers between standoffs and carbon to add strength - if the standoffs are damaging the carbon in crashes on your builds. I see them dig in sometimes and compromise the part and spawn cracks.
good idea! On the lightswitch, this isn't a concern, because the standoffs mount on top of press nuts. Good tip for switchback pro though
63/37- Lester with 3Percent flux is the best solder I’ve found for quads
Additionally there is a better tape that has a more rigid surface to hold your arm wires down it’s sold at only a few places you’ll see lines in the surface of it and it’s adhesive is dramatically better than that fabric tape you are using.
Great video this was right up my alley
Have a name for that tape?
Ya, I use that same fabric tape, and I find that I have to add a dab of superglue to the spot where the end of the tape wraps around. It works, but if you end finding that name of the stuff with better adhesive, I'll give a try too.
Thanks.
I made it to the end and now purchased like 4 things I didnt know I needed
I made it to the end. Thanks for the tips!
Thanks for letting me know!
Great tips!
Still need to stuff a Freestyle into a Frame, Some good tips in here thanks, E6000 FTW! Been beating the tar out of a Mob6 HDZero and E6k was the first thing I did to the UFL and MIPI cable. Really enjoying HDZero, Working on a Nano 90 and WhoopVTX in a 3 inch RacerX frame tomorrow. Can't wait! Cheers!
That will be a real ripper!
This was super helpful!
Glad it helped!
I made it to the end too thanks for the tips, I have a question I have a 2s whoop I lost it I went to look for it found it in about 20 minutes later but now is not working probably it overheated, is there something I could do is there a fuse or nothing I can’t do, thanks for any information
Did you use longer standoffs then what comes with the LS V2 kit? The Gold ones... Thanks
Some good tips. Thanks. I would use tamiya liquid threadlock rather than solder the antenna bolts, if you solder it you have a really hard time changing the pigtail.
The screws are not soldered, only the nuts. I see your point though
-E6000 has been my jam for a while now
-I print various thickness washers and grommets in TPU to really dial in board spacings in the stack
-I use a printed esc grommet to get the esc to carbon spacing spot on (and helps hold the stack screws on builds where there isn't a press nut)
-I also 3d print (TPU) the top nut for the stack instead of m3 nuts, a 2.5mm hole threads nice and locking onto the m3 screw
My main takeaway from this:
-soldering in the tiny nuts on the race2 (I've been using e6000, soldering is WAAAY better)
Awesome!
I've got whoop and race vtx's with multiple 1000's of racing and race practice pack on them. Running off clean supply is a MUST
You are very experienced. Glad I taught you a new tip
@@RyanQuellet no one knows everything and you learn to appreciate the new things more as you go, whether at work or in hobby
which specific tpu do you use for grommet? The one I have is too stiff
I made it to the end.
Some interesting tips, especially what to with those nano UFL nuts.
I use Welder, especially for repairs on prop guards. You say its like E6000, but Welder really sticks and cant see being able to peel Welder off. So is Welder really the same as E6000?
I am just building an Ummagawd AcroBrat 3" HD freestyle quad: Holybro 20mm stack (Kakute F7 + Tekko 45A) with Micro V2 camera and Race V2 VTX, DT1408-3600kv motors on 4S. It's not easy placing the slightly over-sized VTX, it needs to be at the front 20x20 mount, at least it only needs a very short MiPi cable to the camera.
I love the tip to solder the ufl nuts! Why didn't i think of that!?
Took me a while to think of it too
I made it to the end.
Thanks! 🙂
Hi, Did you meet some overheating problem with the hdzero whoop vtx
Thx for sharing!!!
Of course!
Do you have a link for the EP1 / antenna mount?
When using the whoop lite vtx, where exactly should I put the other end of the ground wire on the stand-off? Like pinched in between the carbon and stand-off?
Yes, and screw it down in the center hole
Love MR30s, love ummagrip, love not just rolling with what the manufacturer provides (or says), love Kapton tape for short prevention, I've never soldered those dumb little nuts, but I've lost them before, I'll have to try that, I've also never used the joystick, I'm not sure if it's worth it to pull the connector though...
Thanks for watching till the end!
Could you post some pictures on discord on how you mounted the radiorx? Whh did you move the cap to the xt60 instead of letting it stay mounted on the esc?
This drone is different than the one I built in the beginning. For thr conclusion, I just grabbed one of the 6 race drones I built up for mayhem team race. In general it's better to mount the cap right on the esc. This esc has a torn ground pad, so I mounted the cap on the xt60. The radio rx goes under the vtx antenna, but I'm not sure if this is ideal, because it could interfere with vixeo
Another incredibly useful video, Ryan, thank you!! How would you suggest reinforcing the camera? I see you use a print. I have a Nano 90 that took a hard hit and now the threads are stripped on one side. What is the best way to keep that from happening, the 90’s aren’t cheap. Any thoughts on how to mount a camera with stripped threads? E6000?
My thingiverse (rquellet) has several protective nano 90 mounts. For stripped threads, I think dried on e6000 might do the trick. Let's some e6000 dry on the threads, then screw the lens in
@@RyanQuellet Ah!! Cool suggestion, thanks!
@Ryan Quellet
what is the name of that yellow connectors on motor wires?
MR-30. Available at flyfive33.com
i onlce added glue (SILICONE ADHESIVE from TBS) on a mipi connector on the vtx and somehow some of it came inside while drying... i couldnt fiddle out all the glue... now im gettting a bad image :/
I made it to the end and saw that e6000 is apparently easy to remove, did not know that. I use the thin ummagrip as well. I was wondering if you'd share the dry weight of this build. I've gone over mine and lightened them but I'm still in the the low 280s
288g with props and strap. Would be 12g lighter without the front brace
Are you happy to share your antenna/elrs mount. That looks like a great design :)
Still working on it. I'm not happy enough to release it yet
How about now? ;-) .. @@RyanQuellet
My problem isn’t durability during flight . The Freestyle Vtx is fine on that front. My problem is that the JST connectors keep lifting off the board *during* installation. Once I get past installing the Vtx on my build, its super dependable. jST connectors on the freestyle need to be replaced with solder pads, or they need to be braced down with a metal bracket (similarly to the way the Ufl and mipi cables are)
I totally agree. That freestyle vtx connector is terrible. At least needs backup solder pads
Thanks for the tips.
Is that antenna mount for the vtx and Rx available somewhere?
I'm still working on the design a bit
@@RyanQuelletlooking forward to you letting us know it's complete and on thingyverse 🙏
Hi @@RyanQuellet , Did you end up finalizing your design?
I’m really interested in that coating/sealant.
Great stuff. E6000
If you also had some tips for tiny toothpicks and ultralight builds...
Edit: forgot to say thank you!!
For these toothpicks and such: I really don't like the happy model plastic canopies that many people use, what happens is that the legs of the canopy break and then damage components on the vtx board. Always soft mount the vtx too - I see whoop manufacturers not soft mount the vtx and I get really confused. Pick a camera mount that is tough and has good clearance from camera to vtx PCB for crashes
What's the difference between the frame you're using here compared to the Switchback Zero frame?
Lighter and nano cam only
Those exposed solder joints on the motor connectors trigger my OCD lol
😊😊
I would add clear heat-shrink to insulate the bullet connectors
So if hd osd doesn't require an osd chip, do any fc come without them? I'd love to find an f4 fc with no osd, a good bec, and bonus points for mpu6000
I'd like that too. For now, manufacturers are too scared to make an hd only fc for racing
You could de-solder the chip until we get FC's without it
@theball1 yeah but I'm thinking we could save a $1.390 per fc if they shipped without the osd chip
i like it's little hat
Yes press nuts makes it clean..
Thumbs up
A little heat shrink on your motor connections wouldn't hurt.. why leave these exposed when you're protecting everything else from shorting
I go with hot glue instead of e6000 just because of the isopropyl alcohol trick. I guess if you intend to never take it apart then e6000 is the way to go.
Hot glue melts at vtx Temps. That's why I prefer e6000
1. Don't use metal bolts for your stack - nylon only - you want your bolts to break not your stack. 2. Xrotor 40 amp ESC is the most bullet proof 3. You want your printed camera mount to extend way beyond your camera not flush - you want it to flair out like a funnel so it is out of view.
I might have to try nylon nuts. I did this once and the nuts came loose and made the stack vibrate Makes a lot of sense though that it'd be better for the nuts to strip out and drop the stack scews downward rather than bend the stack parts. I'll give that hobbywing 40a ESC a try, thanks. The camera mount does flair out like you are referring to
If only they could deliver the products you purchase from their website. Money leaves my account and utter silence on HD zero's end. I rate their service a 3 out of 10. Customer service non existent.