Cool build, by the way, you can save some extra weight by: 1. Ripping stickers of the battery, it gives another 0,3-0,5 grams, depending on a manufacturer. Which is quiet the same with replacing motor screws to renu 2. Replace canopy with my custom PET-canopy, made out of used PET bottle. It weights about 0,3 grams and gives mutch better protection than flex printed canopy. And also costs 0$. Let me know if you are interested, I can share the drawing, so you can build your own PET-conopy. (You may need to adjust it a bit to fit your camera, my is designed for runcam nano3 )
Man Nate, so much custom light weight whoop building wisdom squeezed into one video in a nice concise way! I’ve really been looking forward to this and it delivered! 🔥🔥🔥
This is going to be my first 1S whoop, first HD Zero quad, AND my first quad with ELRS. This little quad looks AMAZING!! AND I get to build it myself, from components! Mr ShutterBug you are my whoop hero 😘😎 PS - In the past, I removed the connectors from an IFlight ESC and soldered the motor wires instead - BUT - I just cut the connectors off with wire cutters LMFAO your method with solder is so much neater - thanks for the tip 😀
I've been following your videos lately. I'm new to the hobby so I don't know a lot. I absolutely love the way you break it down, no BS, straight up. Is the video quality you posted what your seeing in your goggles? If it is... HdZero is what I need!
Yes, the video was recorded from my goggles. It actually looks better when flying than on youtube, because the UA-cam video has been compressed twice (by the goggle DVR and then recompressed by UA-cam). Cheers!
What a great build, thank you for sharing in such detail! I’m also kind of blown away by those dives from the tree tops: pretty much straight down, and no yaw washout! Early reviews of the Mobula 6 HDZero have looked slightly underpowered, but your build seems to perform really well. My favorite flier these days is a 75mm 2s with DJI, but dives require very fine care to avoid coming down into dirty air or leveling out too late. Once again, great build!
Thanks! The main difference between my build and the Mob6 HDZero is that mine is about a gram lighter, has higher KV motors, and BT2.0 connector (with good batteries from Tattu).
To remove connectors, I often clamp my forceps on the connector and then hold the board up in the air and let gravity gently pull the connector and forceps off the board when I wet the solder.
@MrShutterbug I like to clip my Hemostats to the stubborn pin and let it dangle down. A hot tip to the opposite side and plop! 😉 I assume you do the same thing when you aren't filming?
The issue of connecting the esc configurator, at least with me, is caused by have the elrs radio connected. Just power down the radio solved the issue.
You do a good job of explaining the excitement of building a drone from scratch as well.. the hobbiest in me was hyped with all the diversions from the "safer route" 😅😂 I'm subbed bro! 💪
I've been waiting for this video lol. This is really awesome. Who would have even thought this was possible a few years ago?? I'd love to see what you would do with a shutterbug 85 update with this VTX/cam. Mine has been a shelf queen since I got DJI so this seems like a great option to bring it back to life.
There is nothing holding the plastic motor plug down on the board. You can pull the plug off leaving just the 3 individual pins on the board making them much easier and safer to remove.
I am new to the hobby. The first kit was the Geprc Tinygo 4k. After learning how to only calibrate the gyro and trim with the sticks, my flight has improved. Then came the Zorro with the Mobula6, what a learning experience on settings with both the controller and BetaFlight. Also the Meteor65 lite...video could be better, but it has earned a special place in my heart for durability. NOW the moblite7!!!! Awesome flight times and handles the best.... Your video has everything! I got excited to see soldering skills on such a small board. Kinda reminds me of the Moblite7. Anywho, you are doing next level stuff.
@@MrShutterBug I found your build on the Tripple OG Shutterbug lite7!!!!! You are da man. Create, build, soldering and programming. Just curious, what would you charge to make the exact same thing? I probably could do it. But the soldering requires a steady hand and a good soldering iron. What soldering iron do you use?
Just finished my own Mob7 HD build with a custom carbon frame. Weighs in at 26.1 g. Got the ORT micro vee on the way and some reny motor screws. Hopefully dip into the 25's. Thanks for the inspiration.
Can you please do a follow up video with your BF info? I followed this guide but I can seem to get it all setup correctly. I have flown it almost 100 times now but I seem to have problems with the settings (or so I think). my drone keeps wanting to balance itself when I push hard on the throttle making it very hard to predict where it wants to go.
For much hate BetaFPV gets, I've found this older style, 1S ELRS board has been very good. One of the best 1S out there. Only issue is the antenna, falls easily.
Hey Nate! I’ve watched this video so many times and it’s taught me so much about saving weight of my builds! I would love to see you do one box nail one whiteboard that came out today. I’m planning on doing one myself, but I’m curious to see how late you can make it, big challenge for you! I’m excited to see if you’ll do it.
I Live in South Africa in small coastal town,but that's no problem ,every time you ask someone one they no you must buy everything 2nd hand or banggood,JUST VERY FRASTRATING LIVING IN SOUTH AFRICA
Really fantastic. As I am not a racer but I would love to try and apply all this to a mobula7 sized quad for longer flight times. My winter project and I hope HDZERO is out in full force. Thanks for sharing as always.
which 75mm Frame and props would you use. Im interested trying the same build on the slightly bigger platform. Always excellent content, so many thanks!
I haven’t build a 75mm with HDZero so I’m not sure which frames have enough room to mount the FC on the bottom like I did in this video. The Mobula7 frame has tall pegs for the FC, so you could probably stack the vtx on top of the FC. Take a look at how they did it for the Mobula7 HDZero 2S BNF. For best efficiency I would go with 40mm 2-blade props and keep everything as light as you can. Good luck!
So great, thanks for all these details. I could really benefit from what tuning settings you used. For one thing, I need to switch from 96khz to 48khz pwm so I have more control. Curious what else you recommend
I heard from last minutes video that sometimes the esc communication goes wrong. Sometimes it didn't appear on the blheli.. How is the solution? Thanks
Thanks Nate for that nice video! I have ordered all parts to build my own HD Zero whoop. So it would be nice to see, how to setup and tune this little guy. Your whoop Flys crazy good. Maybe you can give us a DUMP of DIFF?
I used Betaflight 4.3 for this build, and I did not do any special tuning other than my usual tweaks, which include increasing Feed Forward for acro or increasing Angle Strength for angle mode. For angle I also add around 13 degrees of "FPV Angle Mix", which seems to help the angle mode algorithm dig into the corners a little better.
nice build Nate... thanks for sharing, really help. by the way, did you happen to upload the continuation or completion of this video, the Betaflight setup? :)
@@coltengibbs5404 I think 2 blade gives better battery life, but I prefer 3 blade for racing because I think it gives better control in the tight corners. Just my preference.
@@aphinity The larger prop size should definitely improve flight performance. Or you could build a 75mm whoop with 2-blade 40mm props. That's another good option. Happy building! :-)
I enjoy all your builds I have HDZero already, so I'll try this build out. Where did you get the ELRS antenna replacement? Also what did you use the strap on the VTX antenna there, just black tape?
For this build, I replaced the ELRS antenna because it would have bumped into the vtx. I used a 2.4GHz antenna that I removed from a dead whoop FC, but any tiny wire will work as long as it is cut the the right length. For the VTX antenna, I used a bit of black cloth tape to keep it secure.
HDZero does not output an analog signal, but it does output HDMI. It cannot be used with the DJI goggles because they do not support HDMI input. I don't know if your FatShark goggles have HDMI input or not.
Can the HDzero vtx and camera combo just be wired to a battery instead of to a FC? I got into FPV because of AIO FPV cameras that I could stick on anything I wanted; toy quads, umx airplanes, etc.
Yes, you can simply power the VTX and it will power the camera. Some features require communication with an FC, but they are not strictly necessary. For example, I believe you need a FC in order to use the low power protection mode (25mW until you arm), or to change camera & vtx settings using your radio. That might be a problem on the new 1S VTX, but all the other VTXs have a port for a remote control which can be used to access those settings without an FC. Now, the ExpressLRS team added ELRS backpack support for the VRX (receiver module). They might do something similar for the VTX, if they haven't already. If so, that would let you do everything without an FC (except for the betaflight OSD of course).
Nate - in this build you are using countersunk RENY screws but they do make pan-head screws available (in "Type 1" and "Type 3") - was this a conscious decision to use countersunks or should i go with pan-heads if I can get them?
Hello again! Sorry to bug you more but wondering if you can shed some experience on me. I had a 65mm build with TW 702 23,000kv motors but the FC died. I decided to take apart my moblite7 and put the FC and HDZERO into this 65mm build, so same frame and motors, but now my voltage sag is sooo bad the HDZERO loses video due to low voltage when I'm doing ladder spirals on a freshly charged battery. I'm using BT2.0 connectors. The original 65mm build came in around 23g (flew great for me) but now with the HDZERO components it's about 25.5g -- is that extra weight bogging down these motors so much that I'm experiencing this batt sag or is something else going on perhaps? The only other change is I was using HQ tri-blades but I ran out and I'm using the gemfan tri-blades on this new 65mm HDZERO set up. I need help b/c I can't even fly for 1min now! The only thing I could think of to fix it was re-soldering a new BT2.0 connector on the batt leads but no luck. Appreciate any feedback!
Sorry for the late reply. I remember seeing this comment, and I though for sure I had already responded. Maybe it never actually sent. Anyway, I'm sorry you're having trouble. The voltage should definitely not sag that much. It's hard to guess what could be wrong without seeing it. Some common causes include batteries that are damaged or poor quality (the blue BetaFPV batteries are not great). I use the Tattu 300mah 1S batteries with BT2.0. They are not too expensive, and the quality is excellent. If you know you're batteries are OK, then it could be a physical obstruction. Double check that all motors spin smoothly and with the same amount of resistance. If any motor catches, or grings, or is harder to turn, or if the prop scrapes the duct... any of those things could cause the motor to work extra hard and drain power. Good luck!
Hi. I haven't tried HDZero on the Meteor65 Pro frame. The larger props could give it better performance, but they would not be allowed at the 65mm Whoop races that I go to. Also the Pro frame has less room in the middle, so the HDZero VTX would not fit there. You would have to stack the VTX above the flight controller like they did in the Mobula 6 HDZero. It's probably possible with the right mounting hardware. Have you tried it?
Howdy! Wondering where I can buy the wire to make the antenna for the SPI receiver? Is it just enameled copper wire? What gauge? The wire antenna on my FC broke and I need to replace it, thanks!
I don’t know how to perfectly tune the antenna, but just about any wire will work if it is just the right length. Yes, I think enabled copper wire would be fine.
man I wish I knew what I was doing here lol.. I bought a whoop as a kit from a local drone shop. has brushed motors and the transmitter was terrible. I had an old JP PROPO X2610 and pulled out the 36MHz transmitter board and installed a 2.4 Ghz FrSky board but the whoop is a pain in the ass to control and i get terrible flght times. Just feels so underpowered and often under full throttle it wobble so much it just falls to the ground.
Hello. You make inspiring videos. can you make a video how to set up in betaflight. with how to rotate the flight controller. and uart. Mvh. Erik. thangs
I explained how to rotate the FC and fix the motor mapping in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Aoy9-_ja7Pw/v-deo.html. I use EmuFlight for that one, but the Betaflight settings are the same. With Betaflight 4.3 they made it easier, which is great! There is now tool on the motors tab that can remap the motors much more easily. I have not made any videos about the new feature, but I'm sure you can find a video if you search for one. Good luck!
If building this quad with the current HDZero Whoop Lite camera/vtx combo (the vtx which has the metal protector plates on top and bottom of the vtx), is it required/advisable to remove the protection plates so that they are not in the way during assembly?
Follow up question to this kind of build: when moving the AIO to the bottom of the frame, is the + shaped flight controller required? I assume that it is required to be able to finagle it into the frame. Is this correct? Since this video is over a year old, are there any other/newer AIO FCs that you would recommend?
You have replaced all motor screws with Reny screws. For me some of them were never fitting really tight and tended to fall off after a few flights. Did you ever have such issues with those screws, or did every single one of them fit perfectly so far?
I power the vtx from vbat. The 5v line on the FC would work too, but those 5v regulators are a common source of failure in FCs, so I didn’t want to put any more load on the FC than necessary. Yes, it is possible to loose video with low voltage, but only when the voltage is really low. I think it drops at around 2.8 or 2.9 volts, but you should land before that to save your lipo batteries.
Hi. Which wire were you referring to? Most of the wires can be very thin. The exceptions are the wires that carry significant current like the main power leads and (to a lesser extent) the power lines for the VTX.
Love your channel! Can you give your thought on the 31mm HQ 3blade prop in comparison with 31mm gemfan 3blades? I thought the gemfans are lighter and produce more thrust but interested on your view/feel on them.
Sorry for the super late response. I missed this comment before. I've used both props and they both work fine. One thing I appreciate about the HQ props is that they seem to be more durable, or at least you can tell when they are bent. With they Gemfan prop, it can be hard to see when you have a bent prop because they always have a kind-of bent shape. That's a minor thing though. Both props work great.
hi, may i know what esc setting are you using? i having the same aio, but the motor sometimes are struggler to spin. and flight time just less than 30 sec. Motor im using T-motor 0802 22000kv and using 3 blade 40mm prop. Thanks for you advice!
For this drone, I'm using BLHeli_M with 48kHz PWM and a startup power of 1.0. If your motors don't start spinning reliably when you arm then: 1) Spin them with your finger and double check that they all spin easily (not catching on anything) and 2) Try increasing the startup power in the ECS settings. If you have to push it all the way to 1.5, that's OK for an 0802 motor. Having a flight time less than 30 seconds is not good though. There may be something wrong with the motors or the battery.
@@MrShutterBug hi. thanks for you reply. as for now solve the motor stall issue. as for the 30 second flight time was cause by the vibration. any advice to reduce noise? as for esc setting and also betaflight setting. Thank you
The Blue Shark is part of a ready-to-fly kit made by Makerfire right? You can probably find batteries on makerfire.com, amazon.com, or banggood.com, among others. Good luck.
Managed to get my HDZero 65mm build down to 19.59 grams thanks to your canopy, appreciate everything you have done for world of light whoops.
Awesome! That’s lighter than many analog whoops on the market. Have fun!
Just curious, how did you get it even lighter than his?
just wanted to reach out again and say thanks for your build. this build got me into FPV so thank you for posting it
finally, a "DJIized" smallest woop! Couldnt expect anything less from Mr.Shutter!
Holy moly, that's lighter than a Vista with Cam.
If DJI does not come up with a lighter solution I have to get into HDZero sooner or later.
Cool build, by the way, you can save some extra weight by:
1. Ripping stickers of the battery, it gives another 0,3-0,5 grams, depending on a manufacturer. Which is quiet the same with replacing motor screws to renu
2. Replace canopy with my custom PET-canopy, made out of used PET bottle. It weights about 0,3 grams and gives mutch better protection than flex printed canopy. And also costs 0$. Let me know if you are interested, I can share the drawing, so you can build your own PET-conopy. (You may need to adjust it a bit to fit your camera, my is designed for runcam nano3 )
Id love to see ur canopy
@@duckedup7142 , give me your email address to share the dwg file
can i have the file? on thingiverse or something?
A great way to remove motor connectors is to plug a motor plug into it, then heat the back and pull the wires.
man, i've missed this hobby. just coming back and went with hdzero. thanks for this vid. it was really helpful.
Really neat! Hard to even imagine a 23g digital whoop. That’s about what the OG whoops used to weigh back when I first started flying.
Man Nate, so much custom light weight whoop building wisdom squeezed into one video in a nice concise way! I’ve really been looking forward to this and it delivered! 🔥🔥🔥
This is really where hdzero and elrs shine. Nice flight
It’s great to see Mr. S’s little tricks!
The flight was thrashy, loved it. Hdzero looks good here.
Ever consider a compilation of your flight as a video showcase, just tagging equipment lists per flight? Id watch that.
I'💖💖💖💖💖💖m not worthy!! WOW, Beautiful build....
This is going to be my first 1S whoop, first HD Zero quad, AND my first quad with ELRS. This little quad looks AMAZING!! AND I get to build it myself, from components!
Mr ShutterBug you are my whoop hero 😘😎
PS - In the past, I removed the connectors from an IFlight ESC and soldered the motor wires instead - BUT - I just cut the connectors off with wire cutters LMFAO your method with solder is so much neater - thanks for the tip 😀
I've been following your videos lately. I'm new to the hobby so I don't know a lot. I absolutely love the way you break it down, no BS, straight up.
Is the video quality you posted what your seeing in your goggles? If it is... HdZero is what I need!
Yes, the video was recorded from my goggles. It actually looks better when flying than on youtube, because the UA-cam video has been compressed twice (by the goggle DVR and then recompressed by UA-cam). Cheers!
amazing, a digital video tx in such a micro quad was like a impossible dream few years ago
Crazy how fast the tech is moving forward! I'd be interested to see what your tune is on this whoop. Great video, thanks!
I am interested in getting one of those whoop
Nice diving flight ! Awesome FPV 👍
Nicely done on covering things and sharing some tips I did not know. Thank you!
amazing! i'm now interested in hd, with this lightweight option. nice work!
Thanks! Looking forward to get my hands on the whoop lite kit.
What a great build, thank you for sharing in such detail! I’m also kind of blown away by those dives from the tree tops: pretty much straight down, and no yaw washout! Early reviews of the Mobula 6 HDZero have looked slightly underpowered, but your build seems to perform really well. My favorite flier these days is a 75mm 2s with DJI, but dives require very fine care to avoid coming down into dirty air or leveling out too late. Once again, great build!
Thanks! The main difference between my build and the Mob6 HDZero is that mine is about a gram lighter, has higher KV motors, and BT2.0 connector (with good batteries from Tattu).
Damn Nate! Thats some crazy moves! Brilliant build man!!!
To remove connectors, I often clamp my forceps on the connector and then hold the board up in the air and let gravity gently pull the connector and forceps off the board when I wet the solder.
Good suggestion. I do the same thing on the edge of my bench normally, but it would have been hard to film that way.
You can also remove the connector first by squishing the tweezers between te connector and the board, and then remove the pins one by one
@MrShutterbug I like to clip my Hemostats to the stubborn pin and let it dangle down. A hot tip to the opposite side and plop! 😉 I assume you do the same thing when you aren't filming?
The issue of connecting the esc configurator, at least with me, is caused by have the elrs radio connected. Just power down the radio solved the issue.
Yeah this is absolutely the case, with the radio off you'll have better consistency when connecting to the configurator.
You do a good job of explaining the excitement of building a drone from scratch as well.. the hobbiest in me was hyped with all the diversions from the "safer route" 😅😂 I'm subbed bro! 💪
thank you man! really enjoyable to see your video! very excellent work!
Very clear image ! I want to built one like this so bad !
Looks like some really impressive performance! Very nice!
I've been waiting for this video lol. This is really awesome. Who would have even thought this was possible a few years ago?? I'd love to see what you would do with a shutterbug 85 update with this VTX/cam. Mine has been a shelf queen since I got DJI so this seems like a great option to bring it back to life.
I already build a ShutterBug85 with HDZero, but these new parts could certainly make it lighter. I’m considering it. 😉
There is nothing holding the plastic motor plug down on the board. You can pull the plug off leaving just the 3 individual pins on the board making them much easier and safer to remove.
I am new to the hobby. The first kit was the Geprc Tinygo 4k. After learning how to only calibrate the gyro and trim with the sticks, my flight has improved. Then came the Zorro with the Mobula6, what a learning experience on settings with both the controller and BetaFlight. Also the Meteor65 lite...video could be better, but it has earned a special place in my heart for durability. NOW the moblite7!!!! Awesome flight times and handles the best....
Your video has everything! I got excited to see soldering skills on such a small board. Kinda reminds me of the Moblite7. Anywho, you are doing next level stuff.
Nice! Sounds like you’re having fun. The Moblite7 was inspired by another build that I made. Mine was 16.8 grams + battery. Definitely a fun flyer! 😁
@@MrShutterBug I found your build on the Tripple OG Shutterbug lite7!!!!! You are da man. Create, build, soldering and programming. Just curious, what would you charge to make the exact same thing? I probably could do it. But the soldering requires a steady hand and a good soldering iron. What soldering iron do you use?
Just finished my own Mob7 HD build with a custom carbon frame. Weighs in at 26.1 g. Got the ORT micro vee on the way and some reny motor screws. Hopefully dip into the 25's. Thanks for the inspiration.
You had way too much fun, lol.. Sweet dive! Great information and definitely hit the like button three times...👍🏻🍻👊🏻
Supercool ! Outdoor inside 1s whoop 😎
YESS! Thank ypu for this! I've sent Brain3D the .STL file so they can print me up a couple!
Can you please do a follow up video with your BF info? I followed this guide but I can seem to get it all setup correctly. I have flown it almost 100 times now but I seem to have problems with the settings (or so I think). my drone keeps wanting to balance itself when I push hard on the throttle making it very hard to predict where it wants to go.
For much hate BetaFPV gets, I've found this older style, 1S ELRS board has been very good. One of the best 1S out there. Only issue is the antenna, falls easily.
Awesome flight and build thanks for sharing 👍 😀
Hey Nate! I’ve watched this video so many times and it’s taught me so much about saving weight of my builds! I would love to see you do one box nail one whiteboard that came out today. I’m planning on doing one myself, but I’m curious to see how late you can make it, big challenge for you! I’m excited to see if you’ll do it.
Dope! Tried building my first HDZ 75mm; everything turned on. Once I came to install it into the frame the motor wires were to short 😥
Good job
Great build!!!
miss you shutterbug!
Hi. I’m still around. I’ve just been busy with other things recently so not much racing or video making lately.
@@MrShutterBug glad your well Always love your content! Made me give whoops another chance!
Really nice and clean built makes me consider HdzeRo whoop lol
Flippen AWESOME 🎉🎉🎉
I Live in South Africa in small coastal town,but that's no problem ,every time you ask someone one they no you must buy everything 2nd hand or banggood,JUST VERY FRASTRATING LIVING IN SOUTH AFRICA
Did you ever try out the 0702 motors on this HD build?
👍👍Hi! what is the name of this plasticine that holds the board while soldering?
Blu-Tack. It is very handy.
@@MrShutterBug, Convenient, and the connector does not overheat!👍👍Thank you!
Really fantastic. As I am not a racer but I would love to try and apply all this to a mobula7 sized quad for longer flight times. My winter project and I hope HDZERO is out in full force. Thanks for sharing as always.
Hi Bro, great a very nice job and a very nice micro quad 👍😉
which 75mm Frame and props would you use. Im interested trying the same build on the slightly bigger platform.
Always excellent content, so many thanks!
I haven’t build a 75mm with HDZero so I’m not sure which frames have enough room to mount the FC on the bottom like I did in this video. The Mobula7 frame has tall pegs for the FC, so you could probably stack the vtx on top of the FC. Take a look at how they did it for the Mobula7 HDZero 2S BNF. For best efficiency I would go with 40mm 2-blade props and keep everything as light as you can. Good luck!
Why You did not get power from 5v pad, but from power lead?
I love the antenna mod. I would try a monopole mod, it might give better range and would not weigh any more than a simple wire.
what is the different between 802, 702, 1103 motors ? how does it make a difference ?
So great, thanks for all these details. I could really benefit from what tuning settings you used. For one thing, I need to switch from 96khz to 48khz pwm so I have more control. Curious what else you recommend
I heard from last minutes video that sometimes the esc communication goes wrong. Sometimes it didn't appear on the blheli.. How is the solution? Thanks
Thanks Nate for that nice video! I have ordered all parts to build my own HD Zero whoop. So it would be nice to see, how to setup and tune this little guy. Your whoop Flys crazy good. Maybe you can give us a DUMP of DIFF?
Hi, great build. Could you share your betaflight 4.4 tune? thanks,
I used Betaflight 4.3 for this build, and I did not do any special tuning other than my usual tweaks, which include increasing Feed Forward for acro or increasing Angle Strength for angle mode. For angle I also add around 13 degrees of "FPV Angle Mix", which seems to help the angle mode algorithm dig into the corners a little better.
nice build Nate... thanks for sharing, really help. by the way, did you happen to upload the continuation or completion of this video, the Betaflight setup? :)
I guess there will be a few on sale soon ready built with the new vtx lite board ?
The Mobula6 HDZero bind-n-fly is has this same lite vtx. Link in the video description.
Do you find any benefit of the two blade prop instead of the three blade?
@@coltengibbs5404 I think 2 blade gives better battery life, but I prefer 3 blade for racing because I think it gives better control in the tight corners. Just my preference.
Any thoughts on trying the new meteor 65 pro frame with 35mm props? That’s my build intention once I get HD-Zero
The Meteor65 Pro frame has less room in the middle. I don’t think the VTX would fit there.
@@MrShutterBug yes, agreed. It might have to sit above or something. Would still be interesting
@@aphinity The larger prop size should definitely improve flight performance. Or you could build a 75mm whoop with 2-blade 40mm props. That's another good option. Happy building! :-)
I enjoy all your builds
I have HDZero already, so I'll try this build out.
Where did you get the ELRS antenna replacement?
Also what did you use the strap on the VTX antenna there, just black tape?
For this build, I replaced the ELRS antenna because it would have bumped into the vtx. I used a 2.4GHz antenna that I removed from a dead whoop FC, but any tiny wire will work as long as it is cut the the right length. For the VTX antenna, I used a bit of black cloth tape to keep it secure.
Hi thanks for the tips! I built one like yours with same parts, can you share the pids? thanks!
I built a 75mm with the same fc and Hdzero and 1002 motors but I can’t get osd followed a couple videos but still no go
awesome video
Dude 23g, now we are talking about tinywhoop 😍
Hey, are you planning shuterbug85 of 1s? I aleeady started mine, every cool kids on UA-cam Will try it
Good question, but I think 2S is better for the 85mm size because 2S can deliver power with less voltage sag.
HDzero- Is there a way to add a HDzero module to my DJI FPV 2 goggles or to my FatShark Scout goggles via the analog input?
HDZero does not output an analog signal, but it does output HDMI. It cannot be used with the DJI goggles because they do not support HDMI input. I don't know if your FatShark goggles have HDMI input or not.
for me, the soldering is the easy part for any whoop. I severly struggle when it comes to programming
nice one!
🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥 e basta super ciao.
Can the HDzero vtx and camera combo just be wired to a battery instead of to a FC? I got into FPV because of AIO FPV cameras that I could stick on anything I wanted; toy quads, umx airplanes, etc.
Yes, you can simply power the VTX and it will power the camera. Some features require communication with an FC, but they are not strictly necessary. For example, I believe you need a FC in order to use the low power protection mode (25mW until you arm), or to change camera & vtx settings using your radio. That might be a problem on the new 1S VTX, but all the other VTXs have a port for a remote control which can be used to access those settings without an FC.
Now, the ExpressLRS team added ELRS backpack support for the VRX (receiver module). They might do something similar for the VTX, if they haven't already. If so, that would let you do everything without an FC (except for the betaflight OSD of course).
@@MrShutterBug Alright thanks for clearing that up!
Nate - in this build you are using countersunk RENY screws but they do make pan-head screws available (in "Type 1" and "Type 3") - was this a conscious decision to use countersunks or should i go with pan-heads if I can get them?
Pan head works just as well.
@@MrShutterBug thanks!
Hello again! Sorry to bug you more but wondering if you can shed some experience on me. I had a 65mm build with TW 702 23,000kv motors but the FC died. I decided to take apart my moblite7 and put the FC and HDZERO into this 65mm build, so same frame and motors, but now my voltage sag is sooo bad the HDZERO loses video due to low voltage when I'm doing ladder spirals on a freshly charged battery. I'm using BT2.0 connectors. The original 65mm build came in around 23g (flew great for me) but now with the HDZERO components it's about 25.5g -- is that extra weight bogging down these motors so much that I'm experiencing this batt sag or is something else going on perhaps? The only other change is I was using HQ tri-blades but I ran out and I'm using the gemfan tri-blades on this new 65mm HDZERO set up. I need help b/c I can't even fly for 1min now! The only thing I could think of to fix it was re-soldering a new BT2.0 connector on the batt leads but no luck. Appreciate any feedback!
Sorry for the late reply. I remember seeing this comment, and I though for sure I had already responded. Maybe it never actually sent. Anyway, I'm sorry you're having trouble. The voltage should definitely not sag that much. It's hard to guess what could be wrong without seeing it. Some common causes include batteries that are damaged or poor quality (the blue BetaFPV batteries are not great). I use the Tattu 300mah 1S batteries with BT2.0. They are not too expensive, and the quality is excellent. If you know you're batteries are OK, then it could be a physical obstruction. Double check that all motors spin smoothly and with the same amount of resistance. If any motor catches, or grings, or is harder to turn, or if the prop scrapes the duct... any of those things could cause the motor to work extra hard and drain power. Good luck!
Another great video Nate. When using the Meteor 65 Pro Frame, could you use the 35mm propellers that come stock on that?
Hi. I haven't tried HDZero on the Meteor65 Pro frame. The larger props could give it better performance, but they would not be allowed at the 65mm Whoop races that I go to. Also the Pro frame has less room in the middle, so the HDZero VTX would not fit there. You would have to stack the VTX above the flight controller like they did in the Mobula 6 HDZero. It's probably possible with the right mounting hardware. Have you tried it?
@@MrShutterBug I haven't tried it. I was just thinking about it
Any recommendations on glue for keeping the ufl connector in place?
You could use a dab of E6000 glue. I've done that before. Don't use hot glue since it will soften when the VTX gets hot.
@@MrShutterBug Thank you.
spicy analog crew
Howdy! Wondering where I can buy the wire to make the antenna for the SPI receiver? Is it just enameled copper wire? What gauge? The wire antenna on my FC broke and I need to replace it, thanks!
I don’t know how to perfectly tune the antenna, but just about any wire will work if it is just the right length. Yes, I think enabled copper wire would be fine.
When you break the antena you break my heart too
man I wish I knew what I was doing here lol.. I bought a whoop as a kit from a local drone shop. has brushed motors and the transmitter was terrible. I had an old JP PROPO X2610 and pulled out the 36MHz transmitter board and installed a 2.4 Ghz FrSky board but the whoop is a pain in the ass to control and i get terrible flght times. Just feels so underpowered and often under full throttle it wobble so much it just falls to the ground.
Hello. You make inspiring videos. can you make a video how to set up in betaflight. with how to rotate the flight controller. and uart. Mvh. Erik. thangs
I explained how to rotate the FC and fix the motor mapping in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Aoy9-_ja7Pw/v-deo.html. I use EmuFlight for that one, but the Betaflight settings are the same. With Betaflight 4.3 they made it easier, which is great! There is now tool on the motors tab that can remap the motors much more easily. I have not made any videos about the new feature, but I'm sure you can find a video if you search for one. Good luck!
@@MrShutterBug thangs
If building this quad with the current HDZero Whoop Lite camera/vtx combo (the vtx which has the metal protector plates on top and bottom of the vtx), is it required/advisable to remove the protection plates so that they are not in the way during assembly?
Follow up question to this kind of build: when moving the AIO to the bottom of the frame, is the + shaped flight controller required? I assume that it is required to be able to finagle it into the frame. Is this correct?
Since this video is over a year old, are there any other/newer AIO FCs that you would recommend?
@@FPVinPA I would remove the metal cover from the VTX to reduce weight. Yes a plus-shaped FC is helpful for mounting under the frame.
Nice
A ½g cf brace will help
You have replaced all motor screws with Reny screws. For me some of them were never fitting really tight and tended to fall off after a few flights. Did you ever have such issues with those screws, or did every single one of them fit perfectly so far?
Mine fit well. For me, the only real concern is over tightening them which can break the heads.
i'm gonna build the same thing but do it walksnail!
How did it go?
Love it!!!
Whats the cost of only fpv setups?
SOOOO cool 😃
Have you done any micro DJI builds?
My smallest DJI builds are a whoop with 2 inch props and a “Babytooth” with 3 inch props.
Still trying to get canopy for emax nanohawk and props. In (UK)... any ideas 💡 from anyone would be grate .
How do you connected hdzero vtx? To vbat or to FC 5V? If to vbat, did you have any issues with video drops at low voltage?
I power the vtx from vbat. The 5v line on the FC would work too, but those 5v regulators are a common source of failure in FCs, so I didn’t want to put any more load on the FC than necessary. Yes, it is possible to loose video with low voltage, but only when the voltage is really low. I think it drops at around 2.8 or 2.9 volts, but you should land before that to save your lipo batteries.
Hello. What thickness is the copper wire?
Hi. Which wire were you referring to? Most of the wires can be very thin. The exceptions are the wires that carry significant current like the main power leads and (to a lesser extent) the power lines for the VTX.
Love your channel! Can you give your thought on the 31mm HQ 3blade prop in comparison with 31mm gemfan 3blades? I thought the gemfans are lighter and produce more thrust but interested on your view/feel on them.
Sorry for the super late response. I missed this comment before. I've used both props and they both work fine. One thing I appreciate about the HQ props is that they seem to be more durable, or at least you can tell when they are bent. With they Gemfan prop, it can be hard to see when you have a bent prop because they always have a kind-of bent shape. That's a minor thing though. Both props work great.
this is amazing
hi, may i know what esc setting are you using? i having the same aio, but the motor sometimes are struggler to spin. and flight time just less than 30 sec.
Motor im using T-motor 0802 22000kv and using 3 blade 40mm prop. Thanks for you advice!
For this drone, I'm using BLHeli_M with 48kHz PWM and a startup power of 1.0. If your motors don't start spinning reliably when you arm then:
1) Spin them with your finger and double check that they all spin easily (not catching on anything) and
2) Try increasing the startup power in the ECS settings. If you have to push it all the way to 1.5, that's OK for an 0802 motor.
Having a flight time less than 30 seconds is not good though. There may be something wrong with the motors or the battery.
@@MrShutterBug hi. thanks for you reply.
as for now solve the motor stall issue.
as for the 30 second flight time was cause by the vibration. any advice to reduce noise? as for esc setting and also betaflight setting. Thank you
Cool! I just converted my Moblite 75. Question, is there away to disable the analog VTX?
If the FC is set up for analog, then you should be able to use Smart Audio to set the vtx power level to zero or enable pit mode.
I have a blue shark 1 cell whoop. I need batteries, where could I get em from
The Blue Shark is part of a ready-to-fly kit made by Makerfire right? You can probably find batteries on makerfire.com, amazon.com, or banggood.com, among others. Good luck.