Great information, last time I built an engine was in the late 80s, felpro was my go to back then but I see now better options in some cases, thank you Sir 👍😁
Well I'd say this video on gaskets probably changed my life forever all this time I thought it was something I was doing wrong with the rear main seals trying a different seal on this next 460 I'm putting together I'll have good luck
Gasket tech very good , my experience have used ford 5.0 oil pan gasket with bolt hole spacers for 20 plus years on and off 5 times rubber with shim and oil bolt spacers so u can’t over compress no silicone other than corners , also used oil pan rails , absolute quality is job one ! Felpro has there version still in box .
Used mc cord head gasket with stainless steel fire ring and metal around stud hole and water holes sprayed with copper spray for use with 150 shot of nos , solved blowing gasket this on a 331 Stroker stock block !
I've had some substandard satisfaction using felpro timing cover gaskets, water pump, thermostat housing gaskets. I found they don't hold up all that well compared to victor or OE gaskets. I found out the hard way if you run a coolant with 2-EHA those Felpro timing cover, water pump and thermostat gaskets don't stand a chance. I had to replace them all a few times until I figured out the coolant was causing the problem with gasket degradation. One thing I will say about head gaskets, is I bought a reman 351W long block for a good deal for my truck and took the heads off since I'm gonna reuse my Edelbrock heads off my old engine. I thought the victor head gaskets that came off looked a bit thick. Yeah, .074" thick after they were compressed once. I had no idea you could even get a head gasket that thick lol.
I’ve had some of the thermostat housing gaskets actually weep thru the gasket. Outside of custom made head gaskets, I didn’t know they made them that thick either! Lol
Having it welded up would be the best thing. I’ve heard of people using that ceramic stuff for wood stoves and filling them up but I’m always afraid of using stuff like that because if it comes loose you are in trouble when it gets into the cylinders
Thanks so much for the video! I have a 70 bird with a 71 block and d2 heads. I bought a set of completely worked d0ve heads. I want to install them so bad but can’t get a good answer about running 93 pump. Think it will be fine? I have so many questions.
If your engine has the dished lower compression pistons in it, it will work fine. If you engine is a 1972 model then it should have the lower compression pistons in it. That was the year Ford dropped the compression of the 460. The low compression pistons and the D0VE heads will put you somewhere between 8.9:1 and 9.3:1 compression. It just depends on the deck height of the block, the head gasket thickness, and the actual combustion chamber size. But that compression ratio is perfect for pump gas. Now if it had the 1968-1971 early high compression pistons then I would say no it wouldn't like pump gas.
@ thanks for the reply. I bore-scoped a plug hole and the piston has a shallow round dish to it with valve reliefs. Not the bathtub shape of the later models you showed in your video. The car was my wife’s dad’s car and it sat for 25 years or so. After he passed we got the car and have been rebuilding it. Its drives like a dream I just want the power back from the d2 heads that are on it. It’s a 1970 with a d1 block/d2 heads. He had a 71 donor car so assume the block came from that but I guess it could have been from 71-78? Have you ever seen round dish factory pistons or must it have been a build? He was capable of building a motor but no one in the family knows if he built it or not. I’ve been keeping a journal along side my build because all of the cars secrets died with last owner.
@@Ragilbert2004 well that changes everything. I personally have not seen dished pistons in a 429. Everyone I have been around had flat top pistons in them. I do know that UEM makes a dished piston for the 429. If it has a dished piston in it then you should be fine to use the D0VE heads. Of course you have to remember that the camshaft plays a role in that also. Do you have any idea if it is the stock camshaft in it or something else?
I believe the 1979 and up block started using the smaller bolts in the timing cover. I'll have to look to make sure because I don't want to tell you wrong
I used Fel-Pro rear main seal on a 351 modified it ended up leaking I used a Fel-Pro rear main seal on a 460 it leaked Fel-Pro rear main seal on another 460 and it leaked Fel-Pro one-piece rear main seal on a 302 in it leaks I'll never be using Fel-Pro again
@@jeremynash8607 I actually have a video that I made two years ago showing how out of spec the Fel Pro 460 rear main seals are! ua-cam.com/video/w8w1-c__0pY/v-deo.htmlsi=I7UeUHIO5k_mQIFc
@@jeremynash8607 but the Fel Pro gasket sets I have bought in the past for 5.0 Mustangs have always had National oil seals in them for the one piece rear main seal and the timing cover seal and I didn’t have have problems with them. Although I haven’t bought one for them in a few years. I wonder if they have changed suppliers for their seals now?
@BlackLabGarage funny thing is that the original seal had never leaked I could tell by how dry it was on the back side of the block 2000 motor has been sitting for a while so I figured well I've got a brand new gasket kit it would be foolish not to change that rear main seal there's no doubt in my mind that I left the original one it probably would not be leaking
@BlackLabGarage thank you it's excellent of you to make all these videos. I've often times thought that I should take the time to video some of the things that I've done over the last few years I've done a lot of stuff with big block fords. That's how I was able to tell that you know what you were talking about when I first see a few of your videos because I know firsthand I can prove about 90% of what I've heard you speak of so far is right on the money in the 10% is just stuff that I may not have encountered yet as far as those rear main seals I've always just stuck them in I never had any luck hoping that this next one is going to be different
I've used them in many many different builds and never had a problem out of them. Like that rear main seal. That is a Ford seal in the box, so they was the OE supplier at one time to Ford for that rear main seal.
Great information, last time I built an engine was in the late 80s, felpro was my go to back then but I see now better options in some cases, thank you Sir 👍😁
I used to be a dedicated Fel Pro gasket user but over the last few years I have gotten selective on what Fel Pro gaskets I’ll use.
Well I'd say this video on gaskets probably changed my life forever all this time I thought it was something I was doing wrong with the rear main seals trying a different seal on this next 460 I'm putting together I'll have good luck
Another step up in quality, and what I use. Jon Kaase one piece rear main seal. Cometic MLS head gasket.
Jon Kaase is the man when it comes to the 429/460 engines. I'm sure the MLS head gaskets are superior but for what I'm doing it would be overkill.
That was quite the selection of gaskets, can't wait to see you use them.😎👍
You will see it very soon
Gasket tech very good , my experience have used ford 5.0 oil pan gasket with bolt hole spacers for 20 plus years on and off 5 times rubber with shim and oil bolt spacers so u can’t over compress no silicone other than corners , also used oil pan rails , absolute quality is job one ! Felpro has there version still in box .
@@tonydjr.8593 yes! That design of oil pan gasket with the spacers is the best design. It won’t leak and the gasket won’t spit out the sides
On the valve cover gasket you use glue between cover and gasket. What do you use between gasket and head? I have a problem then sticking.
I never use anything between the gasket and the rail on the cylinder head.
Used mc cord head gasket with stainless steel fire ring and metal around stud hole and water holes sprayed with copper spray for use with 150 shot of nos , solved blowing gasket this on a 331 Stroker stock block !
@@tonydjr.8593 I’ve always liked McCord gaskets. I also liked ROL gaskets before they got bought out by Corteco
That was very helpful. Am in the process of getting parts together for a few builds and you have shown me the options. Thanks.
You're Welcome!
I've had some substandard satisfaction using felpro timing cover gaskets, water pump, thermostat housing gaskets. I found they don't hold up all that well compared to victor or OE gaskets. I found out the hard way if you run a coolant with 2-EHA those Felpro timing cover, water pump and thermostat gaskets don't stand a chance. I had to replace them all a few times until I figured out the coolant was causing the problem with gasket degradation.
One thing I will say about head gaskets, is I bought a reman 351W long block for a good deal for my truck and took the heads off since I'm gonna reuse my Edelbrock heads off my old engine. I thought the victor head gaskets that came off looked a bit thick. Yeah, .074" thick after they were compressed once. I had no idea you could even get a head gasket that thick lol.
I’ve had some of the thermostat housing gaskets actually weep thru the gasket. Outside of custom made head gaskets, I didn’t know they made them that thick either! Lol
@@BlackLabGarage Yeah I've had a couple of them weep slowly, usually on a cold night. Never had that problem with any grey generic gasket though.
What is best way to block exhaust cross over ?
Having it welded up would be the best thing. I’ve heard of people using that ceramic stuff for wood stoves and filling them up but I’m always afraid of using stuff like that because if it comes loose you are in trouble when it gets into the cylinders
@@FilthyGopher I usually run the exhaust crossover on my trucks because I drive them in the wintertime
Thanks so much for the video! I have a 70 bird with a 71 block and d2 heads. I bought a set of completely worked d0ve heads. I want to install them so bad but can’t get a good answer about running 93 pump. Think it will be fine? I have so many questions.
If your engine has the dished lower compression pistons in it, it will work fine. If you engine is a 1972 model then it should have the lower compression pistons in it. That was the year Ford dropped the compression of the 460. The low compression pistons and the D0VE heads will put you somewhere between 8.9:1 and 9.3:1 compression. It just depends on the deck height of the block, the head gasket thickness, and the actual combustion chamber size. But that compression ratio is perfect for pump gas. Now if it had the 1968-1971 early high compression pistons then I would say no it wouldn't like pump gas.
@ thanks for the reply. I bore-scoped a plug hole and the piston has a shallow round dish to it with valve reliefs. Not the bathtub shape of the later models you showed in your video. The car was my wife’s dad’s car and it sat for 25 years or so. After he passed we got the car and have been rebuilding it. Its drives like a dream I just want the power back from the d2 heads that are on it. It’s a 1970 with a d1 block/d2 heads. He had a 71 donor car so assume the block came from that but I guess it could have been from 71-78? Have you ever seen round dish factory pistons or must it have been a build? He was capable of building a motor but no one in the family knows if he built it or not. I’ve been keeping a journal along side my build because all of the cars secrets died with last owner.
Oh also it’s a 429.
@@BlackLabGarage The machine shop labeled the doves as 78cc
@@Ragilbert2004 well that changes everything. I personally have not seen dished pistons in a 429. Everyone I have been around had flat top pistons in them. I do know that UEM makes a dished piston for the 429. If it has a dished piston in it then you should be fine to use the D0VE heads. Of course you have to remember that the camshaft plays a role in that also. Do you have any idea if it is the stock camshaft in it or something else?
What later model 460 used a smaller pan bolt for the corners?
I believe the 1979 and up block started using the smaller bolts in the timing cover. I'll have to look to make sure because I don't want to tell you wrong
What type of weatherstrip adhesive for adhering your gaskets to your valve covers are you referring to?
@@jeremynash8607 just regular yellow or black weatherstrip adhesive
@BlackLabGarage okay thank you
I can’t find the magnum intake gasket you recommended at 15min mark.
@@Ragilbert2004 the MS18137?
@@BlackLabGarageyes. Google results only give one on eBay that looks different.
@@Ragilbert2004 I looked at the one on Ebay and unless their picture is wrong that is them.
I thought I was just incapable of putting a rear main seal in
@@jeremynash8607 nope it’s not you on the Fel Pro 460 rear main seal problems
I must agree gel pro has gone down. In quality
I think they have. A lot of people disagree with me saying that but I've seen the quality go down and stuff being made out of spec now.
I used Fel-Pro rear main seal on a 351 modified it ended up leaking I used a Fel-Pro rear main seal on a 460 it leaked Fel-Pro rear main seal on another 460 and it leaked Fel-Pro one-piece rear main seal on a 302 in it leaks I'll never be using Fel-Pro again
@@jeremynash8607 I actually have a video that I made two years ago showing how out of spec the Fel Pro 460 rear main seals are!
ua-cam.com/video/w8w1-c__0pY/v-deo.htmlsi=I7UeUHIO5k_mQIFc
@@jeremynash8607 but the Fel Pro gasket sets I have bought in the past for 5.0 Mustangs have always had National oil seals in them for the one piece rear main seal and the timing cover seal and I didn’t have have problems with them. Although I haven’t bought one for them in a few years. I wonder if they have changed suppliers for their seals now?
@BlackLabGarage I'm not sure I didn't catch who the seals were made by I know the rear main seal was brown in color
@BlackLabGarage funny thing is that the original seal had never leaked I could tell by how dry it was on the back side of the block 2000 motor has been sitting for a while so I figured well I've got a brand new gasket kit it would be foolish not to change that rear main seal there's no doubt in my mind that I left the original one it probably would not be leaking
@BlackLabGarage thank you it's excellent of you to make all these videos. I've often times thought that I should take the time to video some of the things that I've done over the last few years I've done a lot of stuff with big block fords. That's how I was able to tell that you know what you were talking about when I first see a few of your videos because I know firsthand I can prove about 90% of what I've heard you speak of so far is right on the money in the 10% is just stuff that I may not have encountered yet as far as those rear main seals I've always just stuck them in I never had any luck hoping that this next one is going to be different
Never ever ever used a McChord gasket they're old school in their junk.
I've used them in many many different builds and never had a problem out of them. Like that rear main seal. That is a Ford seal in the box, so they was the OE supplier at one time to Ford for that rear main seal.
Now with that being said, I do remember McCord had a cheaper line of gaskets called Engine Dynamics and I never used those.