Used this video for my 2016. My one side was stuck, just like yours, so I drenched it in penetrating oil and wound up compressing the shock while moving it left to right to break it free and it worked wonders. I still had to hammer it out a bit, but didn't have to resort to cutting it off...thank God. Your videos were awesome. I used your other one for the front struts...it went very well. Thank you👍
Did the same as you! The oil drenching, compressing the shock, moving the shock right and left, and the rubber bushing released from the stud. Then some good smashing against the shock got it to come out
This is exactly how you do it, beautiful work. Order the studs from the dealer before you start the job, they're not likely to have them in stock. Best to just assume you're going to destroy the original studs. If you strip out the 8mm head on the stud (highly likely) you can use 2 vice grips - 1 around the shock busing and 1 right on the stud.
My 2014, Not sure about other side but so far one side like this. I could not get the vice grips/8mm to turn the bolt. I use the grinder to just cut a little line in the metal (most of the rubber was gone by this point through heat/vice grips) then air hammer into the line cut to hammer it and it started to spin. Once it started to spin, it came off pretty easy from there. Took about 2-3 hours (lots of trying heat/air hammer from rear to push it off, no go) so other side will be next weekend or something. Don't have all the time in the world right now. EDIT: So I know my other comments on other things for vehicle things have helped others so just going to put this here. I did the other side, I went straight to cutting off the strut and cutting the line for the air hammer in the bushing. Took me under 1 hour to do it all. Here are my tips/etc. for this, esp if in the NE where it's rust city. I could not get my breaker bar onto either side nut without the spring getting in the way. IDK if it's because I only have 6 sided 1/2 inch sockets because I don't want to round over any rusted nut and in the past, the 12+ sided have done that. So I took the socket and rotated it the 4 ways on the breaker bar and I could get it on, but not have enough room to even break it free. The spring was in the way on both sides, and I wasn't removing the spring. So I took my plumbing torch with just regular camping small propane tank (not using the expensive map gas for this), headed the nut for 60 seconds, put a univeral joint with extender to my 1/2" ryobi impact wrench and both sides nuts came right off with the heat. Then I burned off/chewed off with vice grips most of the rubber. I cut a line above the center line of the bushing, I do this so with air hammer you dont' want to be pushing it in center, but to top so it rotates. I then heated up the bushing maybe 5 min, it's pretty thick, I went back and forth from air hammer with chisel attachment and heat 60 seconds until it started to rotate, once it started, pushed from the back with air hammer and it slid right off.
Excellent video. But you would think Mazda would have fixed this issue after a couple Gens. My 2021 Mazda 6 CE had the same issue? Thanks for the video and recommendation of purchasing a new the shaft. My Bilstein B8's fit nicely.
You mention having the stud available ahead of time - however, I can't find that this stud has a part number available. it appears to be part of the knuckle assembly ($250/side, or $75/side at a junkyard). did you find this stud as a part somewhere or were you just speculating on its availability?
I think this might be the part, but not 100% sure. Shock Mount Stud - Mazda (9YA9-01-410) I remember reading something about it after I did the job and others said that they were able to order that replacement stud from Mazda. Best of luck with it! -Dan
@@DantheFixitMan huh, funny that it shows the stud on its own diagram, but not on the rear suspension diagram. well, at that price, there's no reason to just have them on hand ahead of time at least. thanks!
I change the rear shocks on my 2016 Mazda 3 but I’m still getting a clanking sound like a bad shock. Every time I go over a pothole or any road imperfection.
My 2016 Mazda 3 has almost 200k miles on it. Clunking from the back. Both rear sway bar links were broken. Also the driver's side spring was broken; a small piece broke off the end and was laying the the lower control arm. Couldn't see the broken piece without getting a flashlight. Anyways, I replaced the sway bar links and springs and ok now. This was the 1st repair this car needed besides normal maintenance.
Just removed a leaking shock. The wheel is still on... Removed the interior clothing and removed the upper 12mm bolt. Removed the bold under. Put a 1' wooden beam through the wheel above the disk to the shock. With a big rubber hammer smashed the beam. The shock came loose immediately. The bolt was totally rusted indeed. Because I earlier lowered the car the Eibach spring was in the way, so had to remove the wheel and loosen the suspension the spring rests on. Quite a job, but I figure the next one will take a fraction of the time.
this one was brutal for my 2017, had to throw in the towel and take it to the shop. I believe the previous generation had a simple nut and bolt bottom shock mount solution, I wish gen3 had the same. perhaps with your vid I might have had a little more confidence to keep going at it. has this car seen salt?
I think this car was in Utah for a part of it's early life, but now it's down in Southern California where it's pretty dry. It seems to be a common problem on this model in all areas.
It was a pain…but it did work, and rides much better now. Best of luck to you. I hope you’re able to get the studs out without too much trouble. Take care, -Dan
@@DantheFixitMan ending up having to try cutting off the bushing n end up cutting the stud💀💀 n couldn’t get the stud out initially so 8mm head ended up rounding up
Well there goes Saturday.. My CX-5 was the same. Had to put the thing back together and take it to Midas... Additionally, the cast aluminum upper shock holder had broken and there was not one available on the freaking Eastern Seaboard for weeks. I like my Mazda..but it's not quite a Toyota.
![Mazda 6] Replace back shocks](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bQCoqeVnr84/mqdefault.jpg)
Used this video for my 2016. My one side was stuck, just like yours, so I drenched it in penetrating oil and wound up compressing the shock while moving it left to right to break it free and it worked wonders. I still had to hammer it out a bit, but didn't have to resort to cutting it off...thank God. Your videos were awesome. I used your other one for the front struts...it went very well. Thank you👍
Did the same as you! The oil drenching, compressing the shock, moving the shock right and left, and the rubber bushing released from the stud. Then some good smashing against the shock got it to come out
This is exactly how you do it, beautiful work. Order the studs from the dealer before you start the job, they're not likely to have them in stock. Best to just assume you're going to destroy the original studs. If you strip out the 8mm head on the stud (highly likely) you can use 2 vice grips - 1 around the shock busing and 1 right on the stud.
My 2014, Not sure about other side but so far one side like this. I could not get the vice grips/8mm to turn the bolt. I use the grinder to just cut a little line in the metal (most of the rubber was gone by this point through heat/vice grips) then air hammer into the line cut to hammer it and it started to spin. Once it started to spin, it came off pretty easy from there. Took about 2-3 hours (lots of trying heat/air hammer from rear to push it off, no go) so other side will be next weekend or something. Don't have all the time in the world right now.
EDIT: So I know my other comments on other things for vehicle things have helped others so just going to put this here. I did the other side, I went straight to cutting off the strut and cutting the line for the air hammer in the bushing. Took me under 1 hour to do it all. Here are my tips/etc. for this, esp if in the NE where it's rust city. I could not get my breaker bar onto either side nut without the spring getting in the way. IDK if it's because I only have 6 sided 1/2 inch sockets because I don't want to round over any rusted nut and in the past, the 12+ sided have done that.
So I took the socket and rotated it the 4 ways on the breaker bar and I could get it on, but not have enough room to even break it free. The spring was in the way on both sides, and I wasn't removing the spring. So I took my plumbing torch with just regular camping small propane tank (not using the expensive map gas for this), headed the nut for 60 seconds, put a univeral joint with extender to my 1/2" ryobi impact wrench and both sides nuts came right off with the heat.
Then I burned off/chewed off with vice grips most of the rubber. I cut a line above the center line of the bushing, I do this so with air hammer you dont' want to be pushing it in center, but to top so it rotates. I then heated up the bushing maybe 5 min, it's pretty thick, I went back and forth from air hammer with chisel attachment and heat 60 seconds until it started to rotate, once it started, pushed from the back with air hammer and it slid right off.
your video is so detailed !!! I used to own this 2015 one but changed to 2019...Thanks.
Excellent production. Thank you!
Excellent video. But you would think Mazda would have fixed this issue after a couple Gens. My 2021 Mazda 6 CE had the same issue?
Thanks for the video and recommendation of purchasing a new the shaft. My Bilstein B8's fit nicely.
You mention having the stud available ahead of time - however, I can't find that this stud has a part number available. it appears to be part of the knuckle assembly ($250/side, or $75/side at a junkyard). did you find this stud as a part somewhere or were you just speculating on its availability?
I think this might be the part, but not 100% sure.
Shock Mount Stud - Mazda (9YA9-01-410)
I remember reading something about it after I did the job and others said that they were able to order that replacement stud from Mazda.
Best of luck with it!
-Dan
@@DantheFixitMan huh, funny that it shows the stud on its own diagram, but not on the rear suspension diagram. well, at that price, there's no reason to just have them on hand ahead of time at least. thanks!
I change the rear shocks on my 2016 Mazda 3 but I’m still getting a clanking sound like a bad shock. Every time I go over a pothole or any road imperfection.
My 2016 Mazda 3 has almost 200k miles on it. Clunking from the back. Both rear sway bar links were broken. Also the driver's side spring was broken; a small piece broke off the end and was laying the the lower control arm. Couldn't see the broken piece without getting a flashlight. Anyways, I replaced the sway bar links and springs and ok now. This was the 1st repair this car needed besides normal maintenance.
Dealing with the same issue 😢
Just removed a leaking shock.
The wheel is still on...
Removed the interior clothing and removed the upper 12mm bolt.
Removed the bold under.
Put a 1' wooden beam through the wheel above the disk to the shock.
With a big rubber hammer smashed the beam. The shock came loose immediately.
The bolt was totally rusted indeed.
Because I earlier lowered the car the Eibach spring was in the way, so had to remove the wheel and loosen the suspension the spring rests on.
Quite a job, but I figure the next one will take a fraction of the time.
Oh man took me 2 days...shock welded to the pin. Had to cut it off 😂
I removed spring and dropped the suspension arm too. It was hell. 2 days was just 1 side.🤣😂🥰
I'm about to do it in one. Going go the dealer to get those 5 dollar studs. This is just messed up
@@smsmed4725 Good luck man. I took the other side to the garage cos i thought discretion was the better part of valour.❤❤❤
How many years your rear shocks had at that time?
10 years, I think they were the original ones that we changed.
@@DantheFixitManmine are 80k. Same thing.
this one was brutal for my 2017, had to throw in the towel and take it to the shop. I believe the previous generation had a simple nut and bolt bottom shock mount solution, I wish gen3 had the same. perhaps with your vid I might have had a little more confidence to keep going at it. has this car seen salt?
I think this car was in Utah for a part of it's early life, but now it's down in Southern California where it's pretty dry. It seems to be a common problem on this model in all areas.
You have to remove the stud it mounts to per manufacturer
Good luck with that.
@@smsmed4725torch it for a few minutes and comes out no problem
@@smsmed4725also replacements for that stud is a bolt from Mazda
Holy shit fuck my life. This was painful. The nht never broke free for me and i ended up turninf the whole stud out 1/16th at a time
Whoever designed these and didn’t put antisiez at the factory need to replace 1000 of these on a 80k mile cx5 as a punishment.
Thank I have to tackle my back shocks mine are seized
It was a pain…but it did work, and rides much better now.
Best of luck to you. I hope you’re able to get the studs out without too much trouble.
Take care,
-Dan
@@DantheFixitMan thanks appreciate it !
@@DantheFixitMan ending up having to try cutting off the bushing n end up cutting the stud💀💀 n couldn’t get the stud out initially so 8mm head ended up rounding up
@@alvinmatthew9080 so frustrating I'm sure...sorry you had to deal with this.
Well there goes Saturday..
My CX-5 was the same. Had to put the thing back together and take it to Midas...
Additionally, the cast aluminum upper shock holder had broken and there was not one available on the freaking Eastern Seaboard for weeks.
I like my Mazda..but it's not quite a Toyota.
Buy a torch brother
I need two torches then. This garbage metal welder itself after barely 6 years
you can buy 4 Inch TWO JAW BEARING PULLER easy to remove😂😂😂😂