Building a better DIY injection moulder. Part 3 - Feed Hopper
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- Part 3. Building the feed hopper and auger feed screw
Being able to automatically add controlled amounts of plastic is vital to the operation of the machine. The design of the screw is more important than I thought.
This machine when finished will be for home use by myself and will use 100% recycled plastic to mould into new parts.
![DIY Desktop Filament Extruder #6 [ENG] Bonus: Wood Drill vs. ( Plastic Screw / Compression Screw )](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/TkZ1h22KqbU/mqdefault.jpg)
The feed design reminds me of the old paintball hoppers we used called "shredders" or the feed on the powder stage of a ammunition reloader. You might use a pair of rotating paddle wheels to keep the media agitated and pushing downwards in a manner that isn't a positive displacement so it doesn't jam. I appreciate the inclusions of the failures and the problem solving to remedy them.
Interesting! I didn't know there were paintball guns that worked like that.
i LOVE that small mod to the custom feed screw to avoid the jam/pinch. super clever. keep up the good work!
Yes, this is something I wouldn't have thought of until I actually observed it. Sometimes designs just evolve like this.
@@AndysMachines only the best designs evolve like this. Noticing exactly where are how something is failing, and solving exactly and only that problem. Good work!
Excelente
your videos are amazing, its a shame you don't get the views you deserve.
Thanks! I am getting more views and subscribers slowly, but it just takes time I guess.
@@AndysMachines its going to blow i feel like you got a buncha more follwers since last time i looked
Its a very good video, i havnt skeeped the ad so that ad money will get you
Ej man! You are amazing!
Great video, please keep up with the good work. You make our lifes rich!
Awesome work. Looking forward to the next part
Awesome Project!
Just discovered and 'binged watched' this project! Nice craftsmanship and editing.
Thank you for documenting and spending the additional effort.
Really enjoyable content. Looking forward to your future videos
Thanks! Actually I will be featuring some 3D printing in an upcoming video, I've always preferred 'real' ways of making things, but 3D printing is very well suited for some applications.
@@AndysMachines nice!
Additive manufacturing ist real too :b
Just another discipline of engineering with different pros and cons :'D
Yes, I know it's a real method (didn't mean any insult!) I was never really into 3D printing and thought many people rely on it too much when other methods are better/quicker/stronger etc. But since picking up a cheap 2nd hand printer it's growing on me. I guess you use the tools at your disposal! 😁
Excellent work.
Awesome project, even your shop spider came to check it out @ 2:00
Strange... I never even spotted that before!
good eye, looks like a Green Lynx?
Waw, salute for you, good job sir
Very nice tools
Awesome! Maybe in another life time I will have time to also do a project like this.
What’s the maximum shot size and are you selling these machines?
Maximum shot size would be around 50cc, but I've never needed that much so haven't tested it. No I don't sell machines, this was built just for my own use.
using the precision auger bit for a auger was just genius! too bad it didnt work out!
It was actually just a cheap wood drill and a shortcut compared to actually making an auger. It did work fine with pellets, but the whole point of this machine was to use 100% recycled flakes from shredded single-use plastic.
Parabéns pelo seu trabalho nota dez 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great method of cutting the splined hole. I never thought of that, just pushing down with the quill?
Looks like the bed backlash is getting yanked around, but I guess a few spring cuts solves that.
Yes, the splines are cut manually with quill. The machine is turned off and being used like an arbour press. There is some deflection, I think mostly in the column, so you need to take multiple cuts, probably didn't help that my cutter was just ground by hand and not perfect. It's quite tedious but really the only way to do it as I only have a lathe and a mill. (There are of course better ways, broaching, rotary broaching, or skiving or a shaper/slotter)
I have been saving milk bottle tops for about five years now, without really knowing why! Your solution to the "pinch-point" is brilliant... I was envisaging all sorts of complex answers. :o)
Thanks for the videos.
Yes, me too! I have buckets full of them. It's amazing how many you can amass without really trying. 😉
excellent vedio ... Very informative
with my experience in mechanical engineering, the auger should be horizontally or upwards and never at an angle downwards. And depending on the material to be conveyed, the auger should have enough play in relation to the tube so that the material slides on the tube sheet and does not clog
great Andy!!!
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
What made you choose plunger style injection over using a screw directly? I really like what you've done, but I would be obsessed with injecting with a longer screw. Thank you for sharing your work.
Good, question! I actually tried (twice) to build a screw-based machine using the same principles as large industrial machines, but couldn't get it to work reliably, though there were other issues as well as the screw. I also built a manual plunger style machine which works really well and is super reliable, though of course it's only a manual machine. This is an attempt to build something in between. In future I might try again with an automatic screw based machine.
@@AndysMachines I can imagine the difficulty. I have a great deal of respect for what you've done so far. Success any way you slice it.
This is nothing short of fucking amazing
Nice job
Great work, subscribed for more.
I also made a (sufficiently working) lead casting molding machine (hand cranked for now).
Saw your video on the lead casting machine, very clever! I plan to do something similar for gravity die-casting metals (aluminium and bronze), but It will be a while, too many projects on the go!
@@AndysMachines Yeah, too many projects although I'd like to get into plastic molding machines in the future. LOL
Regarding the electronics, do you plan to use arduino or similar? cause I'm good with the fabrication but use time relays for the brains and am very limited on the capabilities.
I usually like to keep things simple, most of my projects use PIC or AVR microcontrollers programmed in assembly. I've never used arduinos, but if I need something beyond the capabilities of an 8-bit MCU I'll resort to a raspberry pi.
Aren't the flakes/pellets supposed to be melting thru the screw/barrel??? Why would jamming even be an issue?
Not in this barrel, this is just a tube feeding the flakes from the hopper into the main barrel where they will melt. But yes you're right, in a screw-injection barrel friction from the screw would be an advantage and help to melt the plastic, in fact this friction often produces more heat than the heating elements.
Great video! So glad I subscribed!
Excelente explicación!!!
Would pls make a video asap.. about the calculations needed to design the screw and barrel
Already done it!: ua-cam.com/video/_JkVqEtmaOg/v-deo.html
Barel heater also sir
@AndysMachines I've been looking through the details but can't find how much this cost you to make. Do you have an approximate idea? It's a great device! I've been looking for one that I can build and this one seems to be perfect. Do you have plans or blueprints? Do you sell the plans/blueprints or maybe even sell the completed devices?
It actually cost me very little to build as I used parts I already had to hand, and it was designed around this. I think I only bought a 2nd hand air cylinder, some of the steel and some electronic components. I do have some plans on Patreon, but not for the entire machine, you can always adapt it to suit your own needs.
Cool
Dear I'm interested to make in there
You need a much smaller flake for feeding well
Certainly if the flakes are too big they tangle up in the hopper and don't feed consistently into the screw, but if they are too small they can get trapped between the screw flights and the tube and jam the screw, this screw is not driven with much power and I don't want this to happen as the screw's job is only to feed the plastic along the tube. (If I were melting the plastic in this tube this jamming would be a good thing and would generate more heat, but the screw would need to be stronger and driven with more power).
The flakes you see me use at the end of the video are about right for this size of screw (it's 46mm diameter). And I can quickly shred them to this size in my shredder in only a single pass with no sieve.
Killing it! 🔥
Thanks Jerry!
Good luck!
Nice. Are you planning to add a dryer?
Not at the moment. I'll only be doing small runs and I have an oven I can dry the plastic in if needed, though I usually mix different colours to produce a marbled effect, so any streaks from moisture aren't noticeable. I've not noticed any other moisture related problems (bubbles etc.)
It seems to me the feeder is running "up hill" but spinning in the right direction... lol, and needs to be flipped so the threads/screw of the drill are pointed the other way... I might be wrong, it just looks off to me. Great work otherwise...
The screw has a clockwise (right-hand) thread. When viewed from one side the thread flights will appear to 'lean' to one end of the screw. When viewed from the other side they will appear to lean to the other end. Flipping the screw around will actually not change this (it will still be a right hand screw). What matters is that the screw spins anti-clockwise to feed in the correct direction. It could also be a left-handed screw spinning clockwise and it would work just the same.
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