Thanks! I enjoy the video editing process so don't really mind the time it takes. What surprises me though is how much longer it takes to build something when I'm trying to film it at the same time.
Hello Andy, have you removed these plans from your Patreon page by any chance? I have joined your patreon but cannot find them :( Want to build a similar machine as cannot afford a commercial alternative at present. EDIT: Nevermind, found em... Hoping for plans for the rest of the machine :) Great work.
@@KANKDINGcreations Yes, they are still there, you might have to scroll down a way to find the post. I don't really like the way patreon is organised. I haven't put up any further plans for this machine yet, it went through a few design changes.
I really like the clamping mechanism, much like half of a parallelogram car jack which we know can be very strong. The way you measure clamping force is also very cool.
Awesome job making both presses. I liked the 4 zone injection screw. I didnt see if you had cooling zones in the mold. You might want to put a dial indicator on each tie rod (floating bolster side - like you do in the video) and measure the stretch simultaneously on all rods. This way you can see if the press needs to paralleled and verify flat and square. You will open up your processing window making it less susceptible to nuisance variables. I used to install rubber injection molding presses all around North America, and it is cool to see someone make a couple from the ground up. Thanks for the video.
Thanks, no I haven't installed cooling for the mould yet, only heating to get it up to initial temperature. It's quite easy to square the mould by eye with it open a fraction. Even if it is slightly off there is enough play in the mechanism that it will square up by itself. The tie rods are only fixed at the mould end, they are floating at the other end. I haven't been able to measure any difference in stretch between the two rods.
Pretty cool stuff! I wired up a big (200 amp) injection molding machine yesterday. I don't know the terminology of the various parts but the portions where the mold halves are bolted to were about 4 feet by 4 feet.
What a nice project you've got here ! Hopefully it will become more of a tool in the future. Nevertheless, you'll be able to learn a lot from this. It's great to document the process of designing and building it.
After learning a bit more about how an injection molding machine work (the basic requirements) I made it back to here. I now better understand the construction of the machine and the forces applied to the system. Again, great !
AndysMachines can you recommend an entry level machine for people who want to start out with this. Maybe you have an affiliate link for one so I can support you a bit 😉👍
If it were me I would probably start off with a 2nd hand, even vintage, machine. It will probably come with more accessories as you tend to accumulate these over time, but you need to be a little wary that you don't end up with something that needs extensive repairs. If you want a new reliable machine, the smallest cheapest real kind of lathe that can do accurate work is the popular "7 x 14" size (that's inches but they are usually metric in the UK/EU). They start at around 500GBP/euro, there are smaller cheaper lathes but they look very flimsy and underpowered (I've never used them though), often made from aluminium and plastic. The 7 x 14 is all cast iron/steel. Available from lots of places but all really just the same Far-Eastern made machine rebranded, affiliate link: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B085NRLWFC/ref=as_sl_pc_qf_sp_asin_til?tag=andysmachines-21&linkCode=w00&linkId=2a4b312c27f926a38d73ef16e40381f0&creativeASIN=B085NRLWFC
AndysMachines thanks for the advise Andy, I’ll certainly look into the machine you’ve linked. I really advise you to put some affiliate links to your tools and machines in your video descriptions, this way people can show some appreciation for your work and help you out a bit 😜 thanks again for the info 😁
@AndysMachines: I realize this is an older video, but did you think of using a hydraulic jack to open and close the clamp system? I as because in my younger days I worked in the plastic injection field and the press clamps where hydraulic operated but could be either a toggle system (similar to yours) or a hydraulic driver piston system (like a shock absorber). Also, you need to have the clamp toggle attached at ALL 4 corners so that the mold will not separate at the outer edges when under pressure from material injection.
I did consider both hydraulic and pneumatic, but went with electric as it offers a good balance of speed and pressure. A home built hydraulic system would probably be quite slow, though could have plenty of force. Pneumatic would be fast, and could be good if designed properly, but would need cylinders of the correct size that I didn't have to hand. I haven't had any problems with the mould separating, the platen on the end of the toggle clamp is quite thick steel and won't flex and I'm careful to put the cavity on the center line of the clamp so the forces are even.
@@AndysMachines Did you have trouble with "flash" (i.e. material around the part that needed trimmed off)?. If so this means that you were shooting in a larger amount of plastic than was actually needed. There are a lot of variables that have to be taken into account with injection molding. You found in a later video about "back pressure" (when you were losing air pressure when injecting the plastic). It can be a very touchy area when using manual controls as opposed to digital ones. I've worked with both types and getting a manual adjusted press running right takes a little bit. ;) Also, if you have trouble with the part not releasing from the mold try using some "mold release". Not sure exactly that you could get it other than maybe contacting a plastics company there and see if they can help you. (Also, I think Pneumatic and hydraulic are basically the same. Though hydraulic is used to operate a "toggle clamp" system like that which you built)
Yes, that parts I have built so far work much better. The clamp stays fully closed under pressure and the parts have no flash, I can also read the clamp force directly. The injection barrel is much simpler and more reliable than my previous 2-stage injection with screw.
Yes, I'm still working on it so the design might change, but when finished I'll upload some plans to my Patreon page. The parts in this episode are quite straightforward but I'll include links in the description for any special parts I'll need to buy.
This is actually something I'm planning to do separately, eventually I want to die-cast some things in bronze. Search for 'gravity die casting'. The process is quite similar to injection moulding.
Hi Andy, what would it take to make a huge version of this? My part mold is 400x300x200mm. I think i would need a really big press. Maybe multiple gates
For a part that big you would need at least a 400 tonne industrial press. But there may be other ways you could make a part that size, vacuum forming perhaps?
@@AndysMachines lol I understand...looks like you know what your doing, I'm in the market for such a machine...I'll stay posted really anxious to see how it turns out!
I designed it in CAD, but not solidworks. I will probably be uploading the design to my Patreon but first I want to fully test it in case there are any improvements that can be made.
Not really, I did make some parts for their V3 machines and moulds to work with their injector, but it just happens we are doing similar things independently.
The force is directly related to the amount the bars stretch (Young's modulus) I built a simple load cell to measure this (6:30) I also have a video showing how I built the load cell: ua-cam.com/video/r2v7QpJB7GY/v-deo.html
This is the open source bit 😉! I'm a builder of machines and I'm much better at making stuff than documenting it. Besides it's not even finished and I don't know if it will work without having to go back and modify things. When it's working I might release some CAD drawings, but I tend to build things in way that suits me and may not be best for an 'open source' design. I think the best thing anyone can take away from my builds is ideas that they could modify to suit themselves. I can't really instruct anyone how to build a complete machine starting from zero.
@@AndysMachines Makes sense. I'm still trying to learn FreeCAD (too used to being spoiled by autodesk) I may not even need cad, once it works just dimentions, and perhaps screw/motor types etc. I work with some groups (Precious Plastic, and Open Source Ecology) that make open source hardware, and with the dimentions etc plus these videos we could probably do the rest.
Yes, I could. I'm already using pneumatics and I even have a cylinder that would probably work. But a screw gives me much more control over the clamp and allows me to determine it's exact position by adding a rotary encoder to the screw, It's also more precise for doing things like a 'double bounce' to eject the parts. Besides, I don't like doing things the 'easy way' just because it's easy. 😏
@@AndysMachines thank you for your answer, but my answer was based on the profitability side, in your solution you proposed several moving parts and metal-to-metal contact between them which caused wear on the parts, so if we do an analysis of profitability of your machine compared to marketed products surely there is a flaw
I don't really understand the closing force completely. Imagine, as a thought experiment, instead of a clamping mechanism like you (everyone) makes, the mold halves were brought together with no force, but then the half that normally slides back and forth (4:38) was fixed in place, welded in place or screwed or whatever. Now the plastic is injected with whatever high pressure... Won't the amount of leakage/flashing be solely related to the maximum gap between the mold halves during injection? It seems to be more about holding the mold together than the clamping force. Or would you consider welding/screwing it in place a clamping force equal to the tensile strength of the weld/screw? Imagine screwing the mold halves together finger-tight with some massive M20 bolts and the gap between the perfectly-machined mold halves is say 1 micron even with screws just finger tight (think gage blocks...you can lightly push them together and there will be "no" gap), and the screw threads are somehow designed so no slop/no movement occurs when the injection force is applied, and they can't be back-driven, wouldn't even a super high pressure (some fraction of the elastic limit of the screw metal) injection fail to separate the mold halves? So, there is essentially no clamping pressure, but, the mold halves can't be separated. Does that make sense...do you see what I'm trying to get at?
You need to remember stress and strain. Holding a mould together with bolts is a very reliable method, but if you only do them up finger tight they will stretch under the pressure of injection. You need to first have everything under greater tension than the injection pressure will cause or yes it will stretch (even M20 bolts, though you wouldn't have to do them up as tight as say M6).
@@AndysMachines I think I get what you're saying but I'm still not totally seeing it. Imagine you put the two mold halves together with almost no force, but they were machined to fit perfectly so no gap >100nm, then you put a 100ton block of diamond (this is a thought experiment) just behind that mold half so it cannot move backwards when the injection pressure comes. I guess the elasticity of the diamond is small enough that the pressure from during the injection molding will not deform it very much (a micron?) as the mold presses against it and the mold half will not be able to move back, the gap between the mold halves will not increase any substantial amount. So, essentially no pressure between the mold faces but they stay together due to immobility, not tension? (the other mold half could be similarly immobilized for the sake of the thought experiment)
@@perspectivex I guess that would work if you could do it, but in reality things are not so perfect. So you need to preload whatever is holding the mould closed with more force than it will experience pushing it apart. What might look like a solid immovable lump of steel, actually acts just like a spring.
Amigo buenas noches. Será que usted tiene los planos especificando más las proporciones y medidas y las partes eléctricas para poder armarla. O si los vende no importa nececito los planos. O si alguien ya fabricó la máquina inyectora para que me colabore con los planos o accesoria para fabricar está inyectora. Es una de las mejores inyectoras que e visto. Les quedó eternamente agradecido
@@AndysMachines you don't necessarily need audio. No audio would be fine too, or very soft classical music perhaps? With the current setup, the music is much louder than the sounds of assembly and construction. So, either on low volume I hear nothing of the construction sounds, or on high volume my ears hurt, but I can hear the actual construction audio. The video in itself is very interesting and very well done, I'm thoroughly impressed, but the audio is a poor choice. 😂
Let us just stop and appreciate how much real nice work this dude put into this machine and into this video!
Thanks! I enjoy the video editing process so don't really mind the time it takes. What surprises me though is how much longer it takes to build something when I'm trying to film it at the same time.
*UPDATE* I now have plans for the clamp available on my Patreon page in .stl CAD model and .pdf plans - www.patreon.com/andysmachines
Hello Andy, have you removed these plans from your Patreon page by any chance? I have joined your patreon but cannot find them :( Want to build a similar machine as cannot afford a commercial alternative at present.
EDIT: Nevermind, found em... Hoping for plans for the rest of the machine :) Great work.
@@KANKDINGcreations Yes, they are still there, you might have to scroll down a way to find the post. I don't really like the way patreon is organised. I haven't put up any further plans for this machine yet, it went through a few design changes.
I really like the clamping mechanism, much like half of a parallelogram car jack which we know can be very strong. The way you measure clamping force is also very cool.
Really looking forward to this. I work in injection moulding myself so this is very fun to watch. Good job!
Awesome job making both presses. I liked the 4 zone injection screw. I didnt see if you had cooling zones in the mold.
You might want to put a dial indicator on each tie rod (floating bolster side - like you do in the video) and measure the stretch simultaneously on all rods. This way you can see if the press needs to paralleled and verify flat and square.
You will open up your processing window making it less susceptible to nuisance variables.
I used to install rubber injection molding presses all around North America, and it is cool to see someone make a couple from the ground up.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks, no I haven't installed cooling for the mould yet, only heating to get it up to initial temperature.
It's quite easy to square the mould by eye with it open a fraction. Even if it is slightly off there is enough play in the mechanism that it will square up by itself. The tie rods are only fixed at the mould end, they are floating at the other end. I haven't been able to measure any difference in stretch between the two rods.
great work and video. I have only one critique, the song is very annoying 😓
But I like it.
I thought it was rather energetic at 2x speed. It was enjoyable.
Pretty cool stuff! I wired up a big (200 amp) injection molding machine yesterday. I don't know the terminology of the various parts but the portions where the mold halves are bolted to were about 4 feet by 4 feet.
Yes, industrial machines can be orders of magnitude bigger! But the principles are the same.
formidable,j'ai longuement cherché ces vidéos
now i know why machine are expensive..thank you 👍🇩🇿
What a nice project you've got here ! Hopefully it will become more of a tool in the future. Nevertheless, you'll be able to learn a lot from this. It's great to document the process of designing and building it.
After learning a bit more about how an injection molding machine work (the basic requirements) I made it back to here. I now better understand the construction of the machine and the forces applied to the system. Again, great !
Yes, I'm still learning whilst building it. Often through the mistakes I made before!
Wow man awesome mechanical engineering. Makes me wanna buy a lathe, subbed 😜👍
I recommend getting a lathe! Even if you only have space for the smallest cheapest one, it opens up so many possibilities.
AndysMachines can you recommend an entry level machine for people who want to start out with this. Maybe you have an affiliate link for one so I can support you a bit 😉👍
If it were me I would probably start off with a 2nd hand, even vintage, machine. It will probably come with more accessories as you tend to accumulate these over time, but you need to be a little wary that you don't end up with something that needs extensive repairs. If you want a new reliable machine, the smallest cheapest real kind of lathe that can do accurate work is the popular "7 x 14" size (that's inches but they are usually metric in the UK/EU). They start at around 500GBP/euro, there are smaller cheaper lathes but they look very flimsy and underpowered (I've never used them though), often made from aluminium and plastic. The 7 x 14 is all cast iron/steel. Available from lots of places but all really just the same Far-Eastern made machine rebranded, affiliate link: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B085NRLWFC/ref=as_sl_pc_qf_sp_asin_til?tag=andysmachines-21&linkCode=w00&linkId=2a4b312c27f926a38d73ef16e40381f0&creativeASIN=B085NRLWFC
AndysMachines thanks for the advise Andy, I’ll certainly look into the machine you’ve linked. I really advise you to put some affiliate links to your tools and machines in your video descriptions, this way people can show some appreciation for your work and help you out a bit 😜 thanks again for the info 😁
Thanks for the suggestion, actually I've been considering this for a while and I'm going to do it in my next video. 👍
@AndysMachines: I realize this is an older video, but did you think of using a hydraulic jack to open and close the clamp system? I as because in my younger days I worked in the plastic injection field and the press clamps where hydraulic operated but could be either a toggle system (similar to yours) or a hydraulic driver piston system (like a shock absorber). Also, you need to have the clamp toggle attached at ALL 4 corners so that the mold will not separate at the outer edges when under pressure from material injection.
I did consider both hydraulic and pneumatic, but went with electric as it offers a good balance of speed and pressure. A home built hydraulic system would probably be quite slow, though could have plenty of force. Pneumatic would be fast, and could be good if designed properly, but would need cylinders of the correct size that I didn't have to hand.
I haven't had any problems with the mould separating, the platen on the end of the toggle clamp is quite thick steel and won't flex and I'm careful to put the cavity on the center line of the clamp so the forces are even.
@@AndysMachines Did you have trouble with "flash" (i.e. material around the part that needed trimmed off)?. If so this means that you were shooting in a larger amount of plastic than was actually needed. There are a lot of variables that have to be taken into account with injection molding. You found in a later video about "back pressure" (when you were losing air pressure when injecting the plastic). It can be a very touchy area when using manual controls as opposed to digital ones. I've worked with both types and getting a manual adjusted press running right takes a little bit. ;) Also, if you have trouble with the part not releasing from the mold try using some "mold release". Not sure exactly that you could get it other than maybe contacting a plastics company there and see if they can help you. (Also, I think Pneumatic and hydraulic are basically the same. Though hydraulic is used to operate a "toggle clamp" system like that which you built)
Please let us know about your new machine performance, its better from previous one?
Yes, that parts I have built so far work much better. The clamp stays fully closed under pressure and the parts have no flash, I can also read the clamp force directly. The injection barrel is much simpler and more reliable than my previous 2-stage injection with screw.
👍 Any chance you'll share the design? even a parts list? Maybe?
Yes, I'm still working on it so the design might change, but when finished I'll upload some plans to my Patreon page. The parts in this episode are quite straightforward but I'll include links in the description for any special parts I'll need to buy.
정말 ! 최고입니다~👍👍👍👍
감사합니다 👍
Can you make one that can injection mold lower temperature metals, like Tin, Pewter, or maybe even Zinc?
This is actually something I'm planning to do separately, eventually I want to die-cast some things in bronze. Search for 'gravity die casting'. The process is quite similar to injection moulding.
I like it. Keep them coming
This project is very good!
Nice work you have done here, I work in a medical device mfg coy and I love what you have done.
Nice build. I always wanted to build my own but never have. I love injection molding. Too bad Harbor Freight hasn’t come through with one.
boss! what size of cold roll bars you used....how you decided the length and diameter of bars
Hi Andy, what would it take to make a huge version of this? My part mold is 400x300x200mm. I think i would need a really big press. Maybe multiple gates
For a part that big you would need at least a 400 tonne industrial press. But there may be other ways you could make a part that size, vacuum forming perhaps?
@@AndysMachines thank you. Im also thinking about pouring resin in a silicon mold. The parts are big like motorcycle fairings
ah geez, i wish I learn microcontroller when I still a student
Would you build any for purchase?
I haven't completed this one yet and I'm not even 100% sure it will work, so that might be a bit premature!
@@AndysMachines lol I understand...looks like you know what your doing, I'm in the market for such a machine...I'll stay posted really anxious to see how it turns out!
I was just wondering the same regarding if you plan to build for selling. Great work!
I am amazed.
Very nice. Thanks for sharing 🤣🤣🤣
Hello, I have a question, did you design the machine in solidwork? because I cannot understand some parts, for example the closing mechanism
I designed it in CAD, but not solidworks. I will probably be uploading the design to my Patreon but first I want to fully test it in case there are any improvements that can be made.
How u did with the microcontroller could u share the code and the shematic pls ?
Do you develop for the group "Precious Plastics" ?
Not really, I did make some parts for their V3 machines and moulds to work with their injector, but it just happens we are doing similar things independently.
I’m trying to build similar for moulding gun parts mainly Glock copy’s lowers do you know where to get a nice mould for a good price
how do you convert measured deflect into clamp force?
The force is directly related to the amount the bars stretch (Young's modulus) I built a simple load cell to measure this (6:30) I also have a video showing how I built the load cell: ua-cam.com/video/r2v7QpJB7GY/v-deo.html
Great job!
could you make a vertical injection machine sir
Will it be open source?
This is the open source bit 😉! I'm a builder of machines and I'm much better at making stuff than documenting it. Besides it's not even finished and I don't know if it will work without having to go back and modify things. When it's working I might release some CAD drawings, but I tend to build things in way that suits me and may not be best for an 'open source' design. I think the best thing anyone can take away from my builds is ideas that they could modify to suit themselves. I can't really instruct anyone how to build a complete machine starting from zero.
@@AndysMachines Makes sense. I'm still trying to learn FreeCAD (too used to being spoiled by autodesk)
I may not even need cad, once it works just dimentions, and perhaps screw/motor types etc.
I work with some groups (Precious Plastic, and Open Source Ecology) that make open source hardware, and with the dimentions etc plus these videos we could probably do the rest.
Great machine
very cool!
Thanks!
Wow!
What's final product of this machine? Nice engineering design, anw
Nice!
Very nice
How can we make polyester cottone machine?
I think if got a right tools u can madeing a fighter jet is well !u are professional
Que presión tengo con esa prensa amigo?
I've measured up to 5 tonnes. It would likely do more before anything failed.
why didn't use just linear bearings? they are cheap and precise
But it IS a linear bearing. Why not just make them? They are cheaper and more rugged! 🙂
why all this complication you can use a double effect pneumatic cylinder it will be better feasible for your project
Yes, I could. I'm already using pneumatics and I even have a cylinder that would probably work. But a screw gives me much more control over the clamp and allows me to determine it's exact position by adding a rotary encoder to the screw, It's also more precise for doing things like a 'double bounce' to eject the parts.
Besides, I don't like doing things the 'easy way' just because it's easy. 😏
@@AndysMachines thank you for your answer, but my answer was based on the profitability side, in your solution you proposed several moving parts and metal-to-metal contact between them which caused wear on the parts, so if we do an analysis of profitability of your machine compared to marketed products surely there is a flaw
Engenius !!
what is the machine control program?
It's just a simple program I wrote myself on a microcontroller.
You lost me at: it started out with these 2 bars....😂
I got lost at: Can I set up a machine shop in my 10 x 10 room I'm renting? LOL.
VENDE UM KIT PARA MONTAR EM CASA?
cool
Nice boss , i need this massin .
I don't really understand the closing force completely. Imagine, as a thought experiment, instead of a clamping mechanism like you (everyone) makes, the mold halves were brought together with no force, but then the half that normally slides back and forth (4:38) was fixed in place, welded in place or screwed or whatever. Now the plastic is injected with whatever high pressure... Won't the amount of leakage/flashing be solely related to the maximum gap between the mold halves during injection? It seems to be more about holding the mold together than the clamping force. Or would you consider welding/screwing it in place a clamping force equal to the tensile strength of the weld/screw? Imagine screwing the mold halves together finger-tight with some massive M20 bolts and the gap between the perfectly-machined mold halves is say 1 micron even with screws just finger tight (think gage blocks...you can lightly push them together and there will be "no" gap), and the screw threads are somehow designed so no slop/no movement occurs when the injection force is applied, and they can't be back-driven, wouldn't even a super high pressure (some fraction of the elastic limit of the screw metal) injection fail to separate the mold halves? So, there is essentially no clamping pressure, but, the mold halves can't be separated. Does that make sense...do you see what I'm trying to get at?
You need to remember stress and strain. Holding a mould together with bolts is a very reliable method, but if you only do them up finger tight they will stretch under the pressure of injection. You need to first have everything under greater tension than the injection pressure will cause or yes it will stretch (even M20 bolts, though you wouldn't have to do them up as tight as say M6).
@@AndysMachines I think I get what you're saying but I'm still not totally seeing it. Imagine you put the two mold halves together with almost no force, but they were machined to fit perfectly so no gap >100nm, then you put a 100ton block of diamond (this is a thought experiment) just behind that mold half so it cannot move backwards when the injection pressure comes. I guess the elasticity of the diamond is small enough that the pressure from during the injection molding will not deform it very much (a micron?) as the mold presses against it and the mold half will not be able to move back, the gap between the mold halves will not increase any substantial amount. So, essentially no pressure between the mold faces but they stay together due to immobility, not tension? (the other mold half could be similarly immobilized for the sake of the thought experiment)
@@perspectivex I guess that would work if you could do it, but in reality things are not so perfect. So you need to preload whatever is holding the mould closed with more force than it will experience pushing it apart. What might look like a solid immovable lump of steel, actually acts just like a spring.
Hey man really like it. Do you consider selling it?
Amigo buenas noches. Será que usted tiene los planos especificando más las proporciones y medidas y las partes eléctricas para poder armarla. O si los vende no importa nececito los planos. O si alguien ya fabricó la máquina inyectora para que me colabore con los planos o accesoria para fabricar está inyectora. Es una de las mejores inyectoras que e visto. Les quedó eternamente agradecido
Interesting.
🔧😊👍
👌👌👌👍
Amazing machinning skills, bad music choice.
UA-cam audio library! Though I'm open to suggestions if you have something better.
@@AndysMachines you don't necessarily need audio. No audio would be fine too, or very soft classical music perhaps? With the current setup, the music is much louder than the sounds of assembly and construction. So, either on low volume I hear nothing of the construction sounds, or on high volume my ears hurt, but I can hear the actual construction audio. The video in itself is very interesting and very well done, I'm thoroughly impressed, but the audio is a poor choice. 😂
Класс тоже думаю про такую конструкцию
Nice
i dont know what the machine do
Bagus sekali pak.
None of these diys look like diys. Do you people have a metal shop on call? What the hell?
Just a home machine shop, but with care and patience you can do a lot with only basic machine tools.
Можно ли просмотреть чертежи?
Very nice vodeo
More machines please, but spare us the music!
nice work just annoying music.
Better not to put any music. Noise pollution..many don't like extra music apart from the actual soung
Noted. It seems impossible to find music that is to everybody's taste. You'll see that later videos in this series have no music.
hi bro , i really love this machine and i want build it as my graduation project , so can you help me by send the parts dimensions that you made to me
so in other words you want to cheat...
Проста супер мне нужен информация
bb
Too much complicated,just foolishness to build such a device