Good night Haley and Peter i love watching your UA-cam videos on your UA-cam channel I hope rhatvyou are both well and enjoying your conversion on your new motor home please keep safe and warm please keep upv your good work on your you tube channel
I’m not sure why Mercedes would add on lights that damage the body panels when tilting the cab. I have seen photos of other trucks with them on but looking at the wiring and switch on the dash of ours it was definitely added later on and not from factory.
Ah ok maybe then. Not sure why they aren’t on every 814 I’ve seen though. Interesting stuff, either way it’ll get all the correct lighting before we put it through its mot.
Don't forget to adjust your torque wrench back to zero after tightening the bolts. If you don't do that is will be incorrect after time because the spring will stretch.
You two are bonkers, and I love bonkers people. Keep going, guys. I don't understand what you are doing, but I appreciate your determination to do it. You are truly a life lesson in real time. 😂
You're on the right track with the tilt cab mechanism. The lever in the cab is the main lock and the one that is seized is a secondary safety catch. When the cab is full tilt the support arm locks out, you will need to move the lever by the step to lower the cab.
Degreaser, wow! Keep up the good work, you r both so dedicated, working in such temperatures!! ( been there, done that, not much fun, but, you make it fun! )
Ye gods,you are very brave in this horrible weather..I really don't envy you..another fantastic video and I really enjoyed watching it..especially the cab tilting..
I will give you some advice, you should have started with the engine that’s where most of the head ache is going to be get it running properly then move on to the rest of the truck components, the highest cost will be fixing the motor if needed and will take the longest time to repair/replace, why put all that time and money into all the other stuff if the engine doesn’t run or has bad crank bearings, or noisy lifters. Get some engine degrease and a pressure washed, giver a blast
yes your suppose do criss-cross pattern (opposite side's) ensure the wheel is properly aligned and seated and remember to check them again after 50/100 miles just encase one comes loose P.S buy some loose wheel nut indicators (LWNI), which are small, pointed tags that help identify when a wheel nut is loose. if you put a bar under the wheel then left the bar it will help left the wheel into place saving your back
Well done on your efforts, it’s horrible working in the cold Some answers to your questions Always do the wheel bolts opposite and check the manual that they might need a re torque after a few miles of driving The exhaust manifold ( headers is what our American friends call it) will always be rusty because of the heat it can’t be painted but ceramic coating is a good option With the rust on the block that’s normal and unless your removing the engine don’t worry it wouldn’t be worth your time trying to treat in with the engine fitted I’d focus more on checking for oil leaks Get yourself some copper grease for them can linkages Keep up the good work your doing great
Of course it is, steel structures such as bridges etc are spayed on site. Check the paint manufacturer instructions, minus 3 is probably outside their requirements. @@RoadToOffGrid
Woop woop! Half way to 25K subs, which is half way to 50K subs, which is half way to 100K subs!!! In a way, you are now half way there 😇😂 All down to your hard work and great content. Looking forward to that day.
Is it me or does that engine look newer than what year your truck is? I don't know a huge amount about mercs..only owned one. That was a 709d. But anyways. Looks good. There should be a mechanism to stop the truck cab ever falling down back on to you when your working on the engine. To lock it in the open position. Would probably just do the general service work on the engine and then fix/replace anything else as and when needed engine wise. Defo do all your brakes and bearings though, seals etc. that never hurts :) Maybe try and work around all of the cables and hoses closer to the engine when treating the chassis if you can. Will save a ton of time. Generally the chassis is worse at the rear anyways the front is better protected. :)
Yes it definitely looks like the rust is much worse at the back. The front looks pretty good. I think we might get a pro in to do the brake service etc. we’ll give everything else a go. Thanks 😁😁
You guys are doing so well bit by bit by bit, it’s so difficult in that freezing weather. Love your pink overalls Hayley how about getting a pink hat to keep your head warm and your hair clean? It won’t be long now then you can start the rebuild. How exciting Good luck.Jon🇦🇺☀️☀️Australia☀️☀️
Those lights are not fog lights they are side lights.the headers are normally like that you can get it blasted and coated to give a little more power. Wheels better off blasting and powder coat the colour of your choice.
Not sure what the lights were but the bulb was white as where the lens caps and I think I side lights are amber but I could be wrong. They were definitely installed additionally. Yeah looking at the cost of 6 new wheels and tyres I think you’re right 😅
We do have one, it’s an original workshop manual. It says how to take stuff apart but not what they are. I suppose it’s for people who already kinda know what they’re looking at.
Yes will do thank for the heads up! They are wired in to an aux switch on the dash so I might use the wires for some other lights that don’t get In the way.
Thank you 😁 yeah we were thinking about it but our marquee is so open Im not sure it would keep any heat in. We could just periodically stand under the heater 😂
Since the truck has a compressor for the brakes anyway, how about adding a quick attach air outlet that you can connect a hose to for filling tyres, beds, water toys etc?
Perhaps the bits you've removed from the back of the cab has upset the balance? I know most of them are plastic, but they collectively have some weight to them.
It doesn’t look like that latch is preventing the cab from closing its folds down quite smoothly now. I think we’ve realised that is it there to stop you from tilting the cab too far forward and not a locking latch for safety.
No those are on the front mud flaps/ wheel arches. Or rather they were until I took them off too 😂 these where after market lights someone added and where trash.
I have seen other trucks with these on but looking at the wiring and the switch on the dash ours was definitely added later on in life. Maybe it was a popular mod, I can image these old lights not being very good. Also the lights I took off had white bulbs and lens caps and I thought side lights were amber? Don’t worry I am planning to put side lights back on before trying to mot it😂
Should you not stop now with the painting ect of the chasse and get the engine running so you can check the braking system to see what works and is not seized also to make sure that the engine is good before you spend more money get the tanks back on so you can do the mechanical stuff
Marker lights are amber no? These were white and look like they were added later. The truck does have marker lights, they are on the side of the wheel arches.
Front fog lights on that era of truck are rectangular and sit below the headlights so those lights that you knocked off are aftermarket lights, side marker lights and lights that face rearwards can only be yellow or red the only light that can be on the rear that is white is the reverse light.
As for that lever in the driver's step that is the lock for the cab when as the cab falls all the way forward it's supposed to lock the cab in the forward position and to release it you push the cab forward and push the lever forward while pushing the cab forward to release it so you don't have to use a length of wood to hold the cab up.
I can’t remember the brand but it came calibrated and is brand new so you would think you don’t need to get it calibrated again ? That’s something you’d have to pay for I’m guessing.
Just no way to control overspray and it’s very windy where we are. There’s also other peoples property around and we wouldn’t be able to guarantee paint wouldn’t settle on them. Maybe if we put end walls up on our marquee but that would take a good week or so.
Or join the Patreon? It’s free. Saying that, if you want to unsubscribe, you probably wouldn’t like to hear about our personal lives anyway 😅 Couple of reasons we are trying to grow a community on Patreon. 1. UA-cam’s community tab is awful, when we post updates, they are hardly seen by anyone. If we also post them on Patreon, it ensures that the fans that care the most will see them. You can’t make membership free on UA-cam. 2. We are reluctant to post personal Q&As to UA-cam because our channel is really small and we worry about upsetting the algorithm and our channels growth if we don’t stick with truck related content, at least for now. We will most likely also post the Q&A video to our UA-cam community tab but our last video was only seen by 18 people 🤷♀️🤷♂️
I would highly suggest NOT powder coating anything that is open to the elements. It leaves micro holes that water can get in, but can't get out. Causing alll sorts of rusting issues way before it should be a problem. Ask me how I know!!🥸 (oh yeah....don't forget to move the jack stands!)🤓
Good night Haley and Peter i love watching your UA-cam videos on your UA-cam channel I hope rhatvyou are both well and enjoying your conversion on your new motor home please keep safe and warm please keep upv your good work on your you tube channel
Those lights you kicked off were Mercedes original equipment and needed for mot, I had the same truck
I’m not sure why Mercedes would add on lights that damage the body panels when tilting the cab. I have seen photos of other trucks with them on but looking at the wiring and switch on the dash of ours it was definitely added later on and not from factory.
They are the side lights and need to work for the mot
Side lights are amber no? These where white
@@RoadToOffGrid side lights are white forward facing. Side markers are amber.
Ah ok maybe then. Not sure why they aren’t on every 814 I’ve seen though. Interesting stuff, either way it’ll get all the correct lighting before we put it through its mot.
Close the door to help with putting the cab down
Ha yes we learn this just as we were finishing up 😂
The lights you kicked off are side lights and are needed for mot purposes.looks like you will have to purchase some new ones
I have to say I love your custom songs ❤❤
working on trucks the torque wrench we use on the wheels is probably 3 times the size of the one you got. Love the video
That’s so cooool. One day 😁 I think that ours should cover everything we need to do.
i thought it's too small, my transit needed twice that size for the hub nuts, £100 second hand wrench.
@@markbennett6037 dont think its too small for the truck they have. The wheels on the artic are torqued to over 600
That is crazy. Surely you need a torque wrench like 4ft long for that
@@RoadToOffGrid it's probably 6ft long
Don't forget to adjust your torque wrench back to zero after tightening the bolts. If you don't do that is will be incorrect after time because the spring will stretch.
You two are bonkers, and I love bonkers people. Keep going, guys. I don't understand what you are doing, but I appreciate your determination to do it. You are truly a life lesson in real time. 😂
😂😂😂 this made me laugh. Great comment thank you 👍👍👍
You're on the right track with the tilt cab mechanism. The lever in the cab is the main lock and the one that is seized is a secondary safety catch. When the cab is full tilt the support arm locks out, you will need to move the lever by the step to lower the cab.
Hmmm ours must be broken then because that mechanism does nothing atm.
Degreaser, wow! Keep up the good work, you r both so dedicated, working in such temperatures!! ( been there, done that, not much fun, but, you make it fun! )
Amazing progress on
Thank you 😁😁
Ye gods,you are very brave in this horrible weather..I really don't envy you..another fantastic video and I really enjoyed watching it..especially the cab tilting..
Ha yes it was pretty rough! Getting better with better clothing though. Thank you glad you enjoyed it 😁😁
Moose is looking great, keep up the fantastic work, slowly slowly and looking forward to the end.
Thank you 😁😁
love the music every time!
See you next week!!
See ya later alligator
Drive-by compliment : those star tattoos behind Hayley's ear are really cool.
Hi guys love the video s you both are doing a great job have a lovely week end 😊😊😊
Thank you. You too 😁😁
I will give you some advice, you should have started with the engine that’s where most of the head ache is going to be get it running properly then move on to the rest of the truck components, the highest cost will be fixing the motor if needed and will take the longest time to repair/replace, why put all that time and money into all the other stuff if the engine doesn’t run or has bad crank bearings, or noisy lifters. Get some engine degrease and a pressure washed, giver a blast
Great video keep up the great work both 👍
Thank you! Will do!
yes your suppose do criss-cross pattern (opposite side's) ensure the wheel is properly aligned and seated and remember to check them again after 50/100 miles just encase one comes loose P.S buy some loose wheel nut indicators (LWNI), which are small, pointed tags that help identify when a wheel nut is loose. if you put a bar under the wheel then left the bar it will help left the wheel into place saving your back
Great tips thank you. Oh yeah I’ve seen those arrow things on lorry wheels, that makes a lot of sense 👍
@@RoadToOffGrid your welcome
Well done on your efforts, it’s horrible working in the cold
Some answers to your questions
Always do the wheel bolts opposite and check the manual that they might need a re torque after a few miles of driving
The exhaust manifold ( headers is what our American friends call it) will always be rusty because of the heat it can’t be painted but ceramic coating is a good option
With the rust on the block that’s normal and unless your removing the engine don’t worry it wouldn’t be worth your time trying to treat in with the engine fitted
I’d focus more on checking for oil leaks
Get yourself some copper grease for them can linkages
Keep up the good work your doing great
Amazing. Thanks for all the great tips 😁😁
Hi retorque wheels after 30 miles or 30 minutes if truck has not moved . Your doing great
Brilliant work you two have done. Great comparison you’ve made: torquing wheels is def like tightening drums
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks 😁
Moose update with a glass of malbec (good timing) Love the progress guys.
Thank you 😁😁😁
😂Little victories guys!
You should coat it with lanoguard when ite finished, well worth the effort and cost.
Yes thanks for the tip! We have something similar planned 👍👍
Your smaller brush to get in all the nooks and crannies is called a spray gun, for better coverage and finish in a fraction of the time, just saying 😮
😂😂😂 not possible where we’re are unfortunately.
Of course it is, steel structures such as bridges etc are spayed on site. Check the paint manufacturer instructions, minus 3 is probably outside their requirements. @@RoadToOffGrid
Wow those lights are amazing
Good luck working though your list
Truck wash yeah 🎉 😂 love the tunes 😂
Haha thank you 😁😁 lists make things easier to manage 😂
Woop woop! Half way to 25K subs, which is half way to 50K subs, which is half way to 100K subs!!! In a way, you are now half way there 😇😂 All down to your hard work and great content. Looking forward to that day.
I bet they love seeing you at Machine Mart 😁
Is it me or does that engine look newer than what year your truck is? I don't know a huge amount about mercs..only owned one. That was a 709d. But anyways. Looks good.
There should be a mechanism to stop the truck cab ever falling down back on to you when your working on the engine. To lock it in the open position.
Would probably just do the general service work on the engine and then fix/replace anything else as and when needed engine wise.
Defo do all your brakes and bearings though, seals etc. that never hurts :)
Maybe try and work around all of the cables and hoses closer to the engine when treating the chassis if you can. Will save a ton of time. Generally the chassis is worse at the rear anyways the front is better protected. :)
Yes it definitely looks like the rust is much worse at the back. The front looks pretty good. I think we might get a pro in to do the brake service etc. we’ll give everything else a go. Thanks 😁😁
You guys are doing so well bit by bit by bit, it’s so difficult in that freezing weather. Love your pink overalls Hayley how about getting a pink hat to keep your head warm and your hair clean? It won’t be long now then you can start the rebuild. How exciting
Good luck.Jon🇦🇺☀️☀️Australia☀️☀️
Yes Jon 😁 it’s getting there. Few more months and we can start building things!
Those lights are not fog lights they are side lights.the headers are normally like that you can get it blasted and coated to give a little more power. Wheels better off blasting and powder coat the colour of your choice.
Not sure what the lights were but the bulb was white as where the lens caps and I think I side lights are amber but I could be wrong. They were definitely installed additionally. Yeah looking at the cost of 6 new wheels and tyres I think you’re right 😅
Love it, I would personally look for a workshop manual that should help with questions about tilt over etc.
We do have one, it’s an original workshop manual. It says how to take stuff apart but not what they are. I suppose it’s for people who already kinda know what they’re looking at.
Regards the lights you removed from the bumper don’t forget to terminate the wiring or you will have electrical problems
Yes will do thank for the heads up! They are wired in to an aux switch on the dash so I might use the wires for some other lights that don’t get In the way.
Yep the lights are from Mercedes and have been fitted from new
But
Good job 👍
I feel like there is supposed to be a spring from the cab to the frame or frame side of the latch to slow down the cab so it doesn't just slam forward
That’s the fuel filter and smaller pre-filter
Amazing thank you!
Have a look at the mot checker online, as you rescued it from a scrap yard it probably failed its mot and that’s a good place to look
Hi guys some cabs will pump up by hydraulic pressure and you release the pressure to drop down, yours might be like that😮 great channel!!!!!
Its not its spring assisted, its normally heavier trucks with hydraullic assistance
Thank you for the tip 😁 according to our manual this truck does t have a hydraulic lift though. Would be nice!
You need to get freezer suits that workers wear when working in cold stores.
That’s a great idea 👍👍
SONGS ARE BACK!!!!!!
Yeahhhhhhh 😁😁💃🏻
Another great video, going to be hard going in the cold, do you guys have a po box set up, I'll send you some winter working gloves if you do 👍
You two are doing a great job, but maybe you should get a heater for the garage ♨
Thank you 😁 yeah we were thinking about it but our marquee is so open Im not sure it would keep any heat in. We could just periodically stand under the heater 😂
Since the truck has a compressor for the brakes anyway, how about adding a quick attach air outlet that you can connect a hose to for filling tyres, beds, water toys etc?
That’s a really cool idea. 100% doing this 👍👍👍
Slow but steady good 👍 going need some expert suggestions.❤❤😊
For sure ! 😁👍
also yes those fog lights are 100% blocking the cab
Perhaps the bits you've removed from the back of the cab has upset the balance? I know most of them are plastic, but they collectively have some weight to them.
Are you confident that the diff , propshaft , couplings and hanger bearings are in good condition ?
90% we will get them inspected soon along with the brakes 🤞
If the safety latch hasn't been stuck open this entire time but rather stuck closed it may have been binding up causing it to be really hard to close
It doesn’t look like that latch is preventing the cab from closing its folds down quite smoothly now. I think we’ve realised that is it there to stop you from tilting the cab too far forward and not a locking latch for safety.
When you powder coat the rims than they will look brand new again.
Maybe that’ll be the cheaper way to go! 👍
@ yeah cheaper and very strong to
"Hit it with a hammer"
YEEEEEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAAAAA
You've just knocked the side marker lights off
No those are on the front mud flaps/ wheel arches. Or rather they were until I took them off too 😂 these where after market lights someone added and where trash.
They were definitely Mercedes original equipment, side lights and needed for mot 😳 .i had the exact same truck
I have seen other trucks with these on but looking at the wiring and the switch on the dash ours was definitely added later on in life. Maybe it was a popular mod, I can image these old lights not being very good. Also the lights I took off had white bulbs and lens caps and I thought side lights were amber? Don’t worry I am planning to put side lights back on before trying to mot it😂
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍
Why don't you put some cover on the front and back of your marcee and get a heater
Funnily enough we were just thinking about that 😂 it just takes so much time and takes us away from the truck.
How do you do or get your songs?
We write the ourselves the use a website called suno to turn them into songs 😁
What’s the brand of drill?
Makita
Im goo
Should you not stop now with the painting ect of the chasse and get the engine running so you can check the braking system to see what works and is not seized also to make sure that the engine is good before you spend more money get the tanks back on so you can do the mechanical stuff
Probably something along those lines yes. We know the truck drives and stops fine. It it has been sitting for a few months now.
They weren't fog lights they were marker lights and needed for MOT
Marker lights are amber no? These were white and look like they were added later. The truck does have marker lights, they are on the side of the wheel arches.
@RoadToOffGrid facing forward on the front are white just like the ones that are on the top corner of the cab
I’m learning so much!
Front fog lights on that era of truck are rectangular and sit below the headlights so those lights that you knocked off are aftermarket lights, side marker lights and lights that face rearwards can only be yellow or red the only light that can be on the rear that is white is the reverse light.
As for that lever in the driver's step that is the lock for the cab when as the cab falls all the way forward it's supposed to lock the cab in the forward position and to release it you push the cab forward and push the lever forward while pushing the cab forward to release it so you don't have to use a length of wood to hold the cab up.
Do you do your own soundtrack?
Ha yes. We write the songs and the. Use a website called suno.ai to turn them into songs.
Only 27 people waiting...🤷🏼♂️
No please, you always torque wheels in a star pattern!
You should calibrate your torque wrench first
I can’t remember the brand but it came calibrated and is brand new so you would think you don’t need to get it calibrated again ? That’s something you’d have to pay for I’m guessing.
Why on earth are you hand painting it all when youve got big compressed air capabilities
Just no way to control overspray and it’s very windy where we are. There’s also other peoples property around and we wouldn’t be able to guarantee paint wouldn’t settle on them. Maybe if we put end walls up on our marquee but that would take a good week or so.
... So your Q & A,s are only available to your patreons!!??... I'll unsubscribe then..!
Or join the Patreon? It’s free. Saying that, if you want to unsubscribe, you probably wouldn’t like to hear about our personal lives anyway 😅
Couple of reasons we are trying to grow a community on Patreon.
1. UA-cam’s community tab is awful, when we post updates, they are hardly seen by anyone. If we also post them on Patreon, it ensures that the fans that care the most will see them. You can’t make membership free on UA-cam.
2. We are reluctant to post personal Q&As to UA-cam because our channel is really small and we worry about upsetting the algorithm and our channels growth if we don’t stick with truck related content, at least for now.
We will most likely also post the Q&A video to our UA-cam community tab but our last video was only seen by 18 people 🤷♀️🤷♂️
Working in the freezing temperatures is almost impossible , don’t do it .
It’s been a struggle for sure! We’ve got some heated clothing coming. We can’t not make the videos!!
I would highly suggest NOT powder coating anything that is open to the elements. It leaves micro holes that water can get in, but can't get out. Causing alll sorts of rusting issues way before it should be a problem. Ask me how I know!!🥸 (oh yeah....don't forget to move the jack stands!)🤓